New XM-L Light,, 26650/18650/4xAAA Good Price and 57mm head ......... NOTE: The star is solid aluminium !!! :bigsmile:

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garrybunk
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I just ordered a second one of these - $18.99 with free shipping (same seller as O.P. - TopofKing).  Then while perusing more Ebay listings I found it for as low as $16.93 with free s&h, but I don't know about this seller.

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feilox
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anybody got a bad one like me? Bad glass or reflector causing rings… spring being held by solder which i accidently popped and had to re-solder cuz I wanted to stretch them out for my flat top 26650s. Also the end switch goes out pretty fast? Anyways the low bin XM-L emitter is the most annoying part. with yellow tint and the corona of the light? I will post pictures when I can borrow a digital camera.

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

cainn
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feilox wrote:
Bad glass or reflector causing rings…

I was able to improve the ringyness somewhat by filing down the base of the plastic spacer, so the LED was positioned just a tiny bit deeper into the reflector. This may or may not be a good idea for you since the tolerances seem to vary from one light to another.

garrybunk
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Yeah, my light isn't ringy at all and actually has a very nice beam (my beamshots are earlier in this thread). 

-Garry

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apt323
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garrybunk wrote:

Yeah, my light isn’t ringy at all and actually has a very nice beam (my beamshots are earlier in this thread). 

-Garry


Dang, just thought everyones was ringy? Did you get your plug installed yet
feilox
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For those with rainbowy rings like mine. I took the glass off and wiped the metal reflector. Also narrowed it down to the reflector and not the glass, can’t remember who mentioned it, but thanks!

Using my finger and occasionally touching the LED while on, which was hot to the touch and cleaning and re-smearing the reflector with my fingerprints DRAMATICALLY reducted the appearance of rings. Maybe the factory had a wash that really made the product too clean? Wish I took before and after pics. Now it’s barely noticeable. Kinda reminds me of those threads of cleaning & letting the LED breath a little. Lengthening the spring I noticed now with 2 fresh CR123s, fresh 26650 (Trustfire Flames) and 4 fresh AAA that it is noticeably brighter than on a generic 18650.

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

garrybunk
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apt323 wrote:
Did you get your plug installed yet

Nope, too much work to do at home.  I also think the work on the A60 will come ahead of this one.  Got a baby on the way and apparently converting our spare bedroom/home office is more important than modding flashlights.  Gotta love women's priorities, right?  I mean, we have like 2 1/2 months until the baby comes . . . that's plenty of time!  Smile  (This is child #2 by the way, my first is 7.)

-Garry

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apt323
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garrybunk wrote:

apt323 wrote:
Did you get your plug installed yet

Nope, too much work to do at home.  I also think the work on the A60 will come ahead of this one.  Got a baby on the way and apparently converting our spare bedroom/home office is more important than modding flashlights.  Gotta love women’s priorities, right?  I mean, we have like 2 1/2 months until the baby comes . . . that’s plenty of time!  Smile  (This is child #2 by the way, my first is 7.)

-Garry


Congratulations!

Ya women’s priorities often get in the way of things Oops

What are planning on using for the A60 and when you get it out can you measure how thick that little spacer is, I have some thin stuff that might be perfect with a little sanding and forming.

FYI – still not happy with my 57mm head light. :~

garrybunk
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apt323 wrote:
What are planning on using for the A60 and when you get it out can you measure how thick that little spacer is, I have some thin stuff that might be perfect with a little sanding and forming.

I have some thin copper sheeting which I think I can utilize.  I'll try to remember to measure the original plastic thickness as well as my copper.

-Garry

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apt323
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I keep trying to figure something out to make me like this light! So yesterday I decided that I would put in a XRE Q5 that was collecting dust. Thats when i figured out that the pcb on the Q5 was to thin compared to the orgional XML. It had a horrible beam with any of the LED’s i have installed in this light orgionally tried to put in a XML U2 and it had a hole in the hot spot, same thing with the XRE. Finally I put the orgional XML back in and left off the centering/isolator ring and put the dang 4 aaa hold in and it is the best light has ever been.

26650 flat tops wont work it will just randomly change modes

Final conclusion on this light is “Pain In the ASS” – good for a 4aaa light and that is all it will ever be to me, probably will give it away when the opportunity arises!

Thought it had potential – Kind of reminds me of my Dallas Cowboys more especially the “new” # 88

Rusty Joe
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I have been running mine on 4 AAAs and its somewhere around 385 lumens, still throwy and still nice. This is one of my super-keepers! Plus, its so light(weight) on AAAs.

garrybunk
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Rusty Joe wrote:
I have been running mine on 4 AAAs and its somewhere around 385 lumens, still throwy and still nice. This is one of my super-keepers! Plus, its so light(weight) on AAAs.

Same thoughts on mine.  I haven't got around to modding mine (putting a slug in the hollow pill), so I only run it on AAA's and it's still quite impressive.  I'm sure I just happened to get a good sample.  Hopefully the second one I have coming is as good. 

-Garry

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garrybunk
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Just received my second one of these today.  Fit and finish looks just as good as the first.  Haven't put batteries in it nor have I checked under the emitter board (but I expect the same scenario).  I intend this one for gifting.

-Garry

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feilox
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Just wonder if anybody tried 2×16340 (8.2v?) if it would kill the light? Since I tried with 2 cr123s (3v) and it’s as bright as 4XAAA.

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

pretzy
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I wouldn’t

The light shines in the darkness, and the darkness has not overcome it.

feilox
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Just tried it with 2 16340s. They get real hot in under 1 minute. They light is really bright. A bit brighter than a full 26650 or 4xAAA. Too bad the heat fins don’t dissipate heat as much has the handle does. Oh any anybody have links to those 4xAAA holders? I want to try 3 of them in my TR-J12.

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

Werner
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Any hints where to buy? The seller from post 1 don’t delivers to germany.
I need perhaps a light driven with AA or aaa.
I can only find this one http://www.ebay.de/itm/12W-High-Power-1800-lm-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-18650-26650-AAA-Flashlight-Torch-5-Modes-/300782608777?pt=AU_Sport_Camping_Hiking_Lamps_Torches&hash=item46080a6189#ht_218wt_1000
And it’s driven with just 3aaa.

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Werner wrote:
Any hints where to buy? The seller from post 1 don’t delivers to germany. I need perhaps a light driven with AA or aaa. I can only find this one http://www.ebay.de/itm/12W-High-Power-1800-lm-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-18650-26650-AAA-Flashlight-Torch-5-Modes-/300782608777?pt=AU_Sport_Camping_Hiking_Lamps_Torches&hash=item46080a6189#ht_218wt_1000 And it’s driven with just 3aaa.

Yep that’s it.

"You are making progress if each mistake you make is a new one."

Remember - Most great discoveries start with maki

zeremefico
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Ordered one!
Can somebody compare it with HD2010?

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cainn
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Easy. Less throw, less total output. Significantly so. A bit of modding can improve the situation, but it’s best to just think of this light as a reasonably throwy middle-of-the-road light that distinguishes itself by being AAA compatible.

I can’t do a meaningful beam shot comparison because I’ve modded my HD2010 with a T6 3C. Perhaps someone else can.

zeremefico
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So, this model is between good quality C8s T6 and HD2010.
Off course, the Small Suns are better but the price I paid (16.80$) is unbeatable.
New best vfm for me?

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manxbuggy1
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My brother has this light( not rdrfronty. My other brother ) and any respectable xml c8 would kill his, both in total output and throw. I am not hating on the light , it’s just that the output on his is very disappointing. It is a great looking light but just doesn’t live up to what we expected it to do.

cainn
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With the right mods this light hangs with and probably beats most C8 lights, but yeah, definitely not as it comes.

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Comparison with Keygos M10?

Seems like a HD2010 killer, for the money.

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JackCY wrote:
Comparison with Keygos M10?

Seems like a HD2010 killer, for the money.


From the factory its probably half as much throw as the hd2010. I get around 25-29k lux on the meter where as my hd2010 gets around 55k. Unfortunately its a little disappointing in that way but its a nice light since it runs on 4aaa’s. needs modding to be a better light though.
Werner
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I tried to run this light with 4 lithium aaa and it doesn’t switches on the first 20 times…really weird.
I have to switch it on and off, it just gives a short flash but after some dozen switches it stays on…
I think that is because of the higher voltage of the lithium cells…too sad I wanted to put it in my car.
I let it run for 15 minutes, but after it isn’t used for some hours I have to redo the procedure…

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I just modded one of these lights for Rusty Joe. Here's a summary:

  • XM-L2 U2 1A on a 20mm Noctigon with the Noctigon reflowed onto a copper round to make up a pill top, Arctic epoxied in place
  • custom programmed Nanjg at 3.5A: Hi-Med-Lo. Used a brass 20mm to 17mm adapter. The adapter was press fit in by using a metal chisel to make notch's in the alum pill inner rim to give the fitting a "bite"
  • got a LED alignment piece off of AliExpress that fit perfect, and gently sanded backside of reflector to give enough clearance for the wire connections
  • used a better, slightly longer + spring, copper braided. Stock spring was twisted out of shape.
  • tailcap - stock has major loss's, about 1/2 the lumens is lost there after mods. Poorly designed switch assembly, the type with the tab sticking out the side to contact the housing. After a few attempt at replacing the switch, and add copper braiding, still couldn't improve it. So, I had a stock C8/HD2010 type switch pre-mounted on a PC board - had to file it down to fit (trick is angle file it so the soldered switch terminals don't make contact with the housing - light would always be ON). It has a large, slightly longer spring. So all I had to do was, on the retaining aluminum ring, cut out the center hole larger to clear the spring, and copper braid the spring. The brass cap over the spring is eliminated with this mod.

After the tailcap mod, lumens went up to even slightly exceed what I measured with a simple jumper wire across the battery "-" end and the body, so all loss's in the tailcap were negated!

I tried it with several 26650’s and 18650’s. Best ones are the KK button top ICR 4000 26650, Panasonic PD 18650, KeepPower 3400, and TrustFire 5000 26650. All those cells did about the same lumens. Here’s the measurements using a fresh KK button top ICR 4000:

Lumens: 1,292 at start, 1,258 at 30 secs

Throw: 64.5 kcd measured at 5 meters

These numbers are really nice for a light this size (bigger than a C8, smaller than a HD2010), and running at 3.5A (actually I can measure 3.6A) without an AR lens, specially the throw.

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