Maybe L4P can update the description for us and create a “discount” pricing tier
Yup, adding a 2 x “6mmx0,5mm” would be more elucidating
I have one doubt about the LD-A4! I am using mine with a foward clicky switch on the OTR M1!
I have it configured with Moonlight + 3 modes, with the 2x clicks for Turbo.
However, when I double click it (half press as it is a FC switch), it doesn’t assume the “go to turbo” most of the times!
Also, sometimes I have to click 2 times after being on “momentary” moonlight so that it goes to turbo. Maybe this is related to being a FC instead of a reverse clicky switch?!
But another strange thing happens! Imagining I am on mode 2 (low, after moonlight) and I double click (half press), it will go to mode 4 (turbo) but it always take a bit longer on the mode 3; meaning, from modes 2 to 4, it always passes and “waits” on mode 3 to slightly step up to 4…
This happens both with FC and RC switches. Is this normal? Or can it be related to some bad installation I might have done?
LOL. Glad I wasn't the only one. Maybe L4P can *update the description* for us and create a "discount" pricing tier
Yup, adding a 2 x "6mmx0,5mm" would be more elucidating I have one doubt about the LD-A4! I am using mine with a foward clicky switch on the OTR M1! I have it configured with Moonlight + 3 modes, with the 2x clicks for Turbo. However, when I double click it (half press as it is a FC switch), it doesn't assume the "go to turbo" most of the times! Also, sometimes I have to click 2 times after being on "momentary" moonlight so that it goes to turbo. Maybe this is related to being a FC instead of a reverse clicky switch?! But another strange thing happens! Imagining I am on mode 2 (low, after moonlight) and I double click (half press), it will go to mode 4 (turbo) but it always take a bit longer on the mode 3; meaning, from modes 2 to 4, it always passes and "waits" on mode 3 to slightly step up to 4... This happens both with FC and RC switches. Is this normal? Or can it be related to some bad installation I might have done? Thanks and sorry for the confusing questions :P
It's difficult to mimic reverse clicky with forward clicky switch, mostly you can do only simple operations.
Kills XP-G2 in throw, while having 1500lm+ output, which is great for factory undomed 2mm2 LED with pure white tint. Vf is ridiculously low, 3V@3A,3.13V@5A,3.3V@8,5A.
The 3rd best bin this time.
Can’t wait for more precise results to know what the 1500+ actually is. Q8WP was just as throwy as Black Flat. This one would need about 1900 to compete with White Flat.
That Vf is truly extreme.
LOL. Glad I wasn’t the only one. Maybe L4P can update the description for us and create a “discount” pricing tier
Yup, adding a 2 x “6mmx0,5mm” would be more elucidating I have one doubt about the LD-A4! I am using mine with a foward clicky switch on the OTR M1! I have it configured with Moonlight + 3 modes, with the 2x clicks for Turbo. However, when I double click it (half press as it is a FC switch), it doesn’t assume the “go to turbo” most of the times! Also, sometimes I have to click 2 times after being on “momentary” moonlight so that it goes to turbo. Maybe this is related to being a FC instead of a reverse clicky switch?! But another strange thing happens! Imagining I am on mode 2 (low, after moonlight) and I double click (half press), it will go to mode 4 (turbo) but it always take a bit longer on the mode 3; meaning, from modes 2 to 4, it always passes and “waits” on mode 3 to slightly step up to 4… This happens both with FC and RC switches. Is this normal? Or can it be related to some bad installation I might have done? Thanks and sorry for the confusing questions
It’s difficult to mimic reverse clicky with forward clicky switch, mostly you can do only simple operations.
Thanks for the answer mate! My suspicions were correct! I will probably get more but to use with RC switches!
Kills XP-G2 in throw, while having 1500lm+ output, which is great for factory undomed 2mm2 LED with pure white tint. Vf is ridiculously low, 3V@3A,3.13V@5A,3.3V@8,5A.
About this, and sorry for the dumb question, does it mean that using this led above 3A will not produce a) so much heat and b) so much battery drain?
I am planning to use one in a 16340 flashlight with a LD-A4 driver, but I’d like to know if it will be better to use it with a 2A-3A or 4A-6A driver!
Kills XP-G2 in throw, while having 1500lm+ output, which is great for factory undomed 2mm2 LED with pure white tint. Vf is ridiculously low, 3V@3A,3.13V@5A,3.3V@8,5A.
LOL. Glad I wasn’t the only one. Maybe L4P can update the description for us and create a “discount” pricing tier
Yup, adding a 2 x “6mmx0,5mm” would be more elucidating I have one doubt about the LD-A4! I am using mine with a foward clicky switch on the OTR M1! I have it configured with Moonlight + 3 modes, with the 2x clicks for Turbo. However, when I double click it (half press as it is a FC switch), it doesn’t assume the “go to turbo” most of the times! Also, sometimes I have to click 2 times after being on “momentary” moonlight so that it goes to turbo. Maybe this is related to being a FC instead of a reverse clicky switch?! But another strange thing happens! Imagining I am on mode 2 (low, after moonlight) and I double click (half press), it will go to mode 4 (turbo) but it always take a bit longer on the mode 3; meaning, from modes 2 to 4, it always passes and “waits” on mode 3 to slightly step up to 4… This happens both with FC and RC switches. Is this normal? Or can it be related to some bad installation I might have done? Thanks and sorry for the confusing questions
It’s difficult to mimic reverse clicky with forward clicky switch, mostly you can do only simple operations.
Thanks for the answer mate! My suspicions were correct! I will probably get more but to use with RC switches!
Kills XP-G2 in throw, while having 1500lm+ output, which is great for factory undomed 2mm2 LED with pure white tint. Vf is ridiculously low, 3V@3A,3.13V@5A,3.3V@8,5A.
About this, and sorry for the dumb question, does it mean that using this led above 3A will not produce a) so much heat and b) so much battery drain?
I am planning to use one in a 16340 flashlight with a LD-A4 driver, but I’d like to know if it will be better to use it with a 2A-3A or 4A-6A driver!
Thanks in advance
With a linear driver like LD-A4 Vf doesn’t affect heat/battery drain but only how long will it run before output starts dropping. With a buck driver it would be more efficient.
LOL. Glad I wasn’t the only one. Maybe L4P can update the description for us and create a “discount” pricing tier
Yup, adding a 2 x “6mmx0,5mm” would be more elucidating I have one doubt about the LD-A4! I am using mine with a foward clicky switch on the OTR M1! I have it configured with Moonlight + 3 modes, with the 2x clicks for Turbo. However, when I double click it (half press as it is a FC switch), it doesn’t assume the “go to turbo” most of the times! Also, sometimes I have to click 2 times after being on “momentary” moonlight so that it goes to turbo. Maybe this is related to being a FC instead of a reverse clicky switch?! But another strange thing happens! Imagining I am on mode 2 (low, after moonlight) and I double click (half press), it will go to mode 4 (turbo) but it always take a bit longer on the mode 3; meaning, from modes 2 to 4, it always passes and “waits” on mode 3 to slightly step up to 4… This happens both with FC and RC switches. Is this normal? Or can it be related to some bad installation I might have done? Thanks and sorry for the confusing questions
It’s difficult to mimic reverse clicky with forward clicky switch, mostly you can do only simple operations.
Thanks for the answer mate! My suspicions were correct! I will probably get more but to use with RC switches!
Kills XP-G2 in throw, while having 1500lm+ output, which is great for factory undomed 2mm2 LED with pure white tint. Vf is ridiculously low, 3V@3A,3.13V@5A,3.3V@8,5A.
About this, and sorry for the dumb question, does it mean that using this led above 3A will not produce a) so much heat and b) so much battery drain?
I am planning to use one in a 16340 flashlight with a LD-A4 driver, but I’d like to know if it will be better to use it with a 2A-3A or 4A-6A driver!
Thanks in advance
With a linear driver like LD-A4 Vf doesn’t affect heat/battery drain but only how long will it run before output starts dropping. With a buck driver it would be more efficient.
Thanks for the answer Agro! Getting a buck driver with a nice UI as the L4P drivers is something I don’t see as possible currently, so…maybe I should stick withe 3A driver to avoid major drops. I believe this LED will give a nice throw under a zoomie lens !
Thanks again !!
About this, and sorry for the dumb question, does it mean that using this led above 3A will not produce a) so much heat and b) so much battery drain?
I am planning to use one in a 16340 flashlight with a LD-A4 driver, but I’d like to know if it will be better to use it with a 2A-3A or 4A-6A driver!
About this, and sorry for the dumb question, does it mean that using this led above 3A will not produce a) so much heat and b) so much battery drain?
I am planning to use one in a 16340 flashlight with a LD-A4 driver, but I’d like to know if it will be better to use it with a 2A-3A or 4A-6A driver!
Is there any 16340 capable of 6A?
Currently available I guess not! There is/was the AWT IMR16340 15C but those are hard to find!
Most of the cells handle 3A but not much above it
About this, and sorry for the dumb question, does it mean that using this led above 3A will not produce a) so much heat and b) so much battery drain?
I am planning to use one in a 16340 flashlight with a LD-A4 driver, but I’d like to know if it will be better to use it with a 2A-3A or 4A-6A driver!
Is there any 16340 capable of 6A?
Currently available I guess not! There is/was the AWT IMR16340 15C but those are hard to find!
Most of the cells handle 3A but not much above it
I recently asked Vapcell about a high current 16340 and after some discussion how that would sell (the 16340 format is hardly used in vaping so it would just sell for flashlights) Dennis from Vapcell promised to look into it. The AW 16340 15C from years ago (tested by HKJ) proved that a high current 16340 is well possible.
About this, and sorry for the dumb question, does it mean that using this led above 3A will not produce a) so much heat and b) so much battery drain?
I am planning to use one in a 16340 flashlight with a LD-A4 driver, but I’d like to know if it will be better to use it with a 2A-3A or 4A-6A driver!
Is there any 16340 capable of 6A?
Currently available I guess not! There is/was the AWT IMR16340 15C but those are hard to find!
Most of the cells handle 3A but not much above it
I recently asked Vapcell about a high current 16340 and after some discussion how that would sell (the 16340 format is hardly used in vaping so it would just sell for flashlights) Dennis from Vapcell promised to look into it. The AW 16340 15C from years ago (tested by HKJ) proved that a high current 16340 is well possible.
Yup, I noticed that in the thread
The only issue is that the 15C is very difficult to get (at a good price at least)! I really hope they can get it done, would be a fresh air in the 16340 flashlights!
Btw, I ordered some of these KW CSLPM1.TG leds, really curious how they do in some of my lights
I’m interested to see the results
But I’ll probably not buy them myself though, I would rather wait for the larger CULPM1.TG for better cooling and more lux.
Hi,I didn't test new Osram leds on mosX 20mm pcb, but I guess it would start to loose performance at >4Amps due to high power density. You could use standard Cu DTP and well cooled LD-A4.
I am fed up with dealing with reflector shorts and thick wires on MCPCBs. I don’t quite understand why there aren’t any LEDMCPCBs that have through holes/vias that are wire connection points instead of the slots for wires to pass through and solder on top.
I’d like something like this: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/34042 but instead of having to drill new holes on the pill/shelf, have two of the existing slots for wires converted to holes for direct wire soldering. This would make things a lot easier. Is there a reason why these kind of MCPCBs don’t exist? Have you considered making MCPCBs like this? I’d only buy these if they existed.
From what I know, the problem is probably the substrate.
In normal PCBs, the substrate is FR4 (fiberglass laminate) which is non conductive. It’s just the thin (1oz or 2oz) copper layers on top and bottom which are electrically conductive.
Let’s say you have a FR4-PCB for the LED. You drill the hole, feed the wire trough it and you’re done. There is no real problem as the FR-4 isolates your connection to the flashlight host.
Now for the MCPCB:
Here, the substrate is copper or aluminium. This means, if any part of the wire contacts the MCPCB, it has a short to the body of the flashlight.
The only thing isolation the top copper layer to the thick copper substrate is a pretty thin layer of isolator in between. You want this isolator to be as thin as possible.
You CAN of course add some kind of isolation, but that would increase the cost dramatically. I would guess around 10x the cost of a DTPMCPCB
I am fed up with dealing with reflector shorts and thick wires on MCPCBs. I don’t quite understand why there aren’t any LEDMCPCBs that have through holes/vias that are wire connection points instead of the slots for wires to pass through and solder on top.
I think your soldering skills allow using more professional decisions. For example, tiny connectors with small pin located near pcb edge and outer contact soldered to the driver wire.
zeroflow wrote:
From what I know, the problem is probably the substrate.
You CAN of course add some kind of isolation, but that would increase the cost dramatically. I would guess around 10x the cost of a DTPMCPCB
I would say 100x for mosled X technology.
P.S.
It could be possible, if 2-side alu and copper core board were common, so contact point could be places from the backside and isolated from the host.
I did a fast mockup of how that proposed idea would look.
The problem is, the thin red isolation layer is even smaller in real life. As is the top copper layer. I had to expand them so they are better to see.
We’re talking less than a millimeter.
Now, if just a tiny bit of solder makes a connection down to the substrate copper – you have a short.
I think your soldering skills allow using more professional decisions. For example, tiny connectors with small pin located near pcb edge and outer contact soldered to the driver wire.
Looks like the driver used in the Oveready B.O.S.S. / Lux-RC 371D
Do you know how they did the thermal transfer from the LED to the body? Vias? Metallic inserts?
… +1
I was expecting 6 and only 2 arrived! I should start reading things carefully
But I didn’t need them yet
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection /// YouTube Channel
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
LOL. Glad I wasn’t the only one.
Maybe L4P can update the description for us and create a “discount” pricing tier
Yup, adding a 2 x “6mmx0,5mm” would be more elucidating
I have one doubt about the LD-A4! I am using mine with a foward clicky switch on the OTR M1!
I have it configured with Moonlight + 3 modes, with the 2x clicks for Turbo.
However, when I double click it (half press as it is a FC switch), it doesn’t assume the “go to turbo” most of the times!
Also, sometimes I have to click 2 times after being on “momentary” moonlight so that it goes to turbo. Maybe this is related to being a FC instead of a reverse clicky switch?!
But another strange thing happens! Imagining I am on mode 2 (low, after moonlight) and I double click (half press), it will go to mode 4 (turbo) but it always take a bit longer on the mode 3; meaning, from modes 2 to 4, it always passes and “waits” on mode 3 to slightly step up to 4…
This happens both with FC and RC switches. Is this normal? Or can it be related to some bad installation I might have done?
Thanks and sorry for the confusing questions
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection /// YouTube Channel
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
Actually I fell for this as well.
Changed listing to "6mmx0.5mm (DxT) gold plated brass button contact" to prevent further confusion.
led4power.com
It's difficult to mimic reverse clicky with forward clicky switch, mostly you can do only simple operations.
led4power.com
L4P, are you going to sell the Luxeon V2?
I’ve noticed it’s in stock on Digikey and Mouser.
Maybe later, reels of V2 have 2500pcs, not the usual 1000pc.
led4power.com
Osram KW CSLPM1.TG (2mm2) is available now:
https://led4power.com/product-category/leds1/osram/
Kills XP-G2 in throw, while having 1500lm+ output, which is great for factory undomed 2mm2 LED with pure white tint. Vf is ridiculously low, 3V@3A,3.13V@5A,3.3V@8,5A.
led4power.com
The 3rd best bin this time.
Can’t wait for more precise results to know what the 1500+ actually is. Q8WP was just as throwy as Black Flat. This one would need about 1900 to compete with White Flat.
That Vf is truly extreme.
My error, Mouser doesn’t stock it yet, but Digikey offers the following quantities (L1V2-4070000000000):
- 1000 $0.8464
- 500 $0.8667
- 250 $0.9750
- 100 $1.0834
- 25 $1.2460
- 10 $1.6790
- 1 $1.9000
Thanks for the answer mate! My suspicions were correct! I will probably get more but to use with RC switches!
About this, and sorry for the dumb question, does it mean that using this led above 3A will not produce a) so much heat and b) so much battery drain?
I am planning to use one in a 16340 flashlight with a LD-A4 driver, but I’d like to know if it will be better to use it with a 2A-3A or 4A-6A driver!
Thanks in advance
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection /// YouTube Channel
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
Hi,
would the combination of MOSLED EXTREME ( MosX ) Ceramic Insulation XP 3535 MCPCB work with the OSRAM KW CSLPM1.TG – 2mm2 LED soldered to it?
Thinking about upgrading my XP-L Hi Convoy C8.
With a linear driver like LD-A4 Vf doesn’t affect heat/battery drain but only how long will it run before output starts dropping. With a buck driver it would be more efficient.
Thanks for the answer Agro! Getting a buck driver with a nice UI as the L4P drivers is something I don’t see as possible currently, so…maybe I should stick withe 3A driver to avoid major drops. I believe this LED will give a nice throw under a zoomie lens !
Thanks again !!
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection /// YouTube Channel
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
Is there any 16340 capable of 6A?
Currently available I guess not! There is/was the AWT IMR16340 15C but those are hard to find!
Most of the cells handle 3A but not much above it
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection /// YouTube Channel
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
I recently asked Vapcell about a high current 16340 and after some discussion how that would sell (the 16340 format is hardly used in vaping so it would just sell for flashlights) Dennis from Vapcell promised to look into it. The AW 16340 15C from years ago (tested by HKJ) proved that a high current 16340 is well possible.
link to djozz tests
Yup, I noticed that in the thread
The only issue is that the 15C is very difficult to get (at a good price at least)! I really hope they can get it done, would be a fresh air in the 16340 flashlights!
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection /// YouTube Channel
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
Btw, I ordered some of these KW CSLPM1.TG leds, really curious how they do in some of my lights
link to djozz tests
I’m interested to see the results
But I’ll probably not buy them myself though, I would rather wait for the larger CULPM1.TG for better cooling and more lux.
The OPTOFIRE - 4.63Mcd aspheric LED flashlight The SYNIOSBEAM - 10Mcd recoil LED flashlight List of the farthest throwing flashlights
Hi,I didn't test new Osram leds on mosX 20mm pcb, but I guess it would start to loose performance at >4Amps due to high power density. You could use standard Cu DTP and well cooled LD-A4.
led4power.com
I did not found the spacers for the C8 and FET Switch is not for sale now.
Due to larger number of orders and some other projects that I must finish, those stuff is unfortunately postponed.
led4power.com
At least I have ordered my 3 Q8 MCPCBs yesterday.
I hope some others will order them too and you will get your invest back.
Asking is free, so I’ll ask…
I am fed up with dealing with reflector shorts and thick wires on MCPCBs. I don’t quite understand why there aren’t any LED MCPCBs that have through holes/vias that are wire connection points instead of the slots for wires to pass through and solder on top.
I’d like something like this: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/34042 but instead of having to drill new holes on the pill/shelf, have two of the existing slots for wires converted to holes for direct wire soldering. This would make things a lot easier. Is there a reason why these kind of MCPCBs don’t exist? Have you considered making MCPCBs like this? I’d only buy these if they existed.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/akrylamid/
From what I know, the problem is probably the substrate.
In normal PCBs, the substrate is FR4 (fiberglass laminate) which is non conductive. It’s just the thin (1oz or 2oz) copper layers on top and bottom which are electrically conductive.
Let’s say you have a FR4-PCB for the LED. You drill the hole, feed the wire trough it and you’re done. There is no real problem as the FR-4 isolates your connection to the flashlight host.
Now for the MCPCB:
Here, the substrate is copper or aluminium. This means, if any part of the wire contacts the MCPCB, it has a short to the body of the flashlight.
The only thing isolation the top copper layer to the thick copper substrate is a pretty thin layer of isolator in between. You want this isolator to be as thin as possible.
You CAN of course add some kind of isolation, but that would increase the cost dramatically. I would guess around 10x the cost of a DTP MCPCB
I think your soldering skills allow using more professional decisions. For example, tiny connectors with small pin located near pcb edge and outer contact soldered to the driver wire.
I would say 100x for mosled X technology.
P.S.
It could be possible, if 2-side alu and copper core board were common, so contact point could be places from the backside and isolated from the host.
Low-cost copper pills, spacers, optics, drop-ins.
I did a fast mockup of how that proposed idea would look.
The problem is, the thin red isolation layer is even smaller in real life. As is the top copper layer. I had to expand them so they are better to see.
We’re talking less than a millimeter.
Now, if just a tiny bit of solder makes a connection down to the substrate copper – you have a short.
Looks like the driver used in the Oveready B.O.S.S. / Lux-RC 371D
Do you know how they did the thermal transfer from the LED to the body? Vias? Metallic inserts?
Because the PCB looks like a 2/4 layer FR4 board.
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