BLF Community Battery Pulls Overview Thread (Laptop packs and Tool Packs)

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Zulumoose
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Nearly a year ago I got a replacement laptop battery pack for my old HP Probook, which must be maybe 8-10 years old. The old battery pack was lasting 20 minutes at best. The new pack died recently and was replaced under warranty with a very good one so I thought I don’t need the old original pack as a backup any more, time to strip it. I thought if I am lucky only 1 or 2 cells will be dead, and maybe I will get 2-4 viable 18650’s for use in low powered lights.

I was amazed when I pulled out 6 grey LG cells and tested them on my Lii500, all were within about 5% of 2000mAh, and all were sitting at about 4.05V after at least 6 months unused. They all have no problem running a Convoy s2+ 8×7135 on high, It must have been the circuitry that was faulty.

I will test them all individually for runtime, but such positive results make me want to hunt down more old laptops and then I will need more devices to put them in, and more chargers, and cases, and then I may need to save up for a divorce…..

You guys know how it goes.

Beam me up!

snakebite
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yes you are already too far down the rabbit hole to turn back.
and it is surprising how many useful cells lurk in “bad” laptop packs.
enough that folks build powerwalls with them.

Zulumoose wrote:
Nearly a year ago I got a replacement laptop battery pack for my old HP Probook, which must be maybe 8-10 years old. The old battery pack was lasting 20 minutes at best. The new pack died recently and was replaced under warranty with a very good one so I thought I don’t need the old original pack as a backup any more, time to strip it. I thought if I am lucky only 1 or 2 cells will be dead, and maybe I will get 2-4 viable 18650’s for use in low powered lights.

I was amazed when I pulled out 6 grey LG cells and tested them on my Lii500, all were within about 5% of 2000mAh, and all were sitting at about 4.05V after at least 6 months unused. They all have no problem running a Convoy s2+ 8×7135 on high, It must have been the circuitry that was faulty.

I will test them all individually for runtime, but such positive results make me want to hunt down more old laptops and then I will need more devices to put them in, and more chargers, and cases, and then I may need to save up for a divorce…..

You guys know how it goes.

G0OSE
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Just a quick question – I have salvaged 18 ncr18650’s from a bosch drill pack (less than a year old), I noticed 1 cell with brown leaking down the side so I disposed of that one and I’m hoping someone binned a perfectly good pack because of 1 bad cell…
So I have kinda cut/snapped off all the little welded tags, but the cells are a bit rough/spikey sharp on the ends now where the contact welds were and some still have bits of bent tag, what do you guys do to remedy this? flatten them off I mean, a dremel maybe?
Thanks in advance Wink

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G0OSE wrote:
Just a quick question – I have salvaged 18 ncr18650’s from a bosch drill pack (less than a year old), I noticed 1 cell with brown leaking down the side so I disposed of that one and I’m hoping someone binned a perfectly good pack because of 1 bad cell… So I have kinda cut/snapped off all the little welded tags, but the cells are a bit rough/spikey sharp on the ends now where the contact welds were and some still have bits of bent tag, what do you guys do to remedy this? flatten them off I mean, a dremel maybe? Thanks in advance Wink

I just grab them with pliers and twist them off. Works pretty good.

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Pulled some US18650GR (Sony) from a laptop battery pack. 8 cells, 6 were dead (0V), the other 2 were ~2.0V Shocked

But I put those 2 in my Xtar VC2 and they charged (~2500mAh).

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Philaphlous
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I’m back from a little hiatus…. My laptop pulls have been working great! My 91 cell ebike battery has held up quite well and right now it just sitting on my desk in our apartment office….little risky but shouldn’t be…lol I think my bms limits the current draw to 30amps on my ebike because even if I jam the throttle down itll only pull around 1300-1500w which is about 30amps. I took a nasty and very stupid fall on my bike one morning and that made me put the bike away till next year. Lol anyway

I’m back at it! Just ordered 2 more laptop batteries. Apparently theyre genuine laptop batteries but I’m a tad skeptical for good reasons. I think they’re either 9 or 12 cell batteries. I’m planning on making a 7S 19.5v laptop power supply for my Dell xps. I’ve confirmed my cc cv buck converter should handle the power load for the laptop so I’m quite excited about this project! Will keep you guys updated when I get the laptop batteries.

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Cool. I was going to build a pack for my MacBook Pro, but then it died, and the replacement uses USB-C + USB PD for power, which on the one hand, opens up lots of options, but on the other hand, requires smarter circuitry.

YZX had some boards that provides USB PD from any DC input, but they are a bit spendy, so I just bought a 30W RavPower USB-PD power bank. I have a couple of 27W USB-PD car chargers. I originally planned to use the guts of one of them for a battery pack.

If you build a laptop pack, you might want to look into skipping the buck converter all together. A lot of laptops seem to support a range of input voltages. For example, big high-wattage chargers may be 19.5v, while a lower wattage, compact, portable charger might be 16 or 14v. Check the specs on the options for your Dell to get an idea of what is possible. It could be simpler, but also, potentially, more efficient. Once you have the pack built, it would be worth comparing runtime with and without the buck converter.

I’m curious. How are you interconnecting connecting the cells for your packs.

.

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eas wrote:
Cool. I was going to build a pack for my MacBook Pro, but then it died, and the replacement uses USB-C + USB PD for power, which on the one hand, opens up lots of options, but on the other hand, requires smarter circuitry.

YZX had some boards that provides USB PD from any DC input, but they are a bit spendy, so I just bought a 30W RavPower USB-PD power bank. I have a couple of 27W USB-PD car chargers. I originally planned to use the guts of one of them for a battery pack.

If you build a laptop pack, you might want to look into skipping the buck converter all together. A lot of laptops seem to support a range of input voltages. For example, big high-wattage chargers may be 19.5v, while a lower wattage, compact, portable charger might be 16 or 14v. Check the specs on the options for your Dell to get an idea of what is possible. It could be simpler, but also, potentially, more efficient. Once you have the pack built, it would be worth comparing runtime with and without the buck converter.

I’m curious. How are you interconnecting connecting the cells for your packs.

I need the buck converter because I need to ensure I’m running proper voltage and the laptop detects it as a genuine charger. I thought about doing a usb C but realized 60-100w on a USB c pin out is probably not the best idea. A standard charger cord is much safer. This should easily double or even triple my battery capacity compared to my stock laptop battery.

I also want to use 18650 holders in a case rather than solder everything together. That will allow me to use the cells for anything else if I want to

Philaphlous
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Oh…lol If I remember correctly on lower wattage power supplies it’ll keep the battery at the same level…so if it maintains the same level without charging great…but we shall see…

Cracked open the asus batteries. I couldn’t believe it. A 12 cell battery for $10 on ebay…that’s actually genuine… Authentic LGD 18650 S3 cells! 2200mAh, nothing to write home about but better than some Chinese knockoff cells…

They’re these cells: http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/LG%2018650%20S3%202200mAh%20%2...

Unfortunately the power delivery isn’t too high but should be high enough to supply my laptop. 7S2P

I ordered 18650 holders so I can remove each cell if need be. I’m going to beef up the springs and bus bars so resistance is kept to a minimum. Pretty amazed I got 24 cells for $20..lol. Every cell in the first pack is 3.60v even so pretty good. Should also make a nice addition to my Convoy C8!

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gauss163 wrote:
Philaphlous wrote:
Oh…lol If I remember correctly on lower wattage power supplies it’ll keep the battery at the same level…so if it maintains the same level without charging great..!

Yes, non-Dell PSUs will not be allowed to charge the battery.The Dell PSUs communicate their power capabilities to the laptop’s power management module. This allows the laptop power management software to safely and optimally route power to meet demands of various modules, e.g. it may decrease the battery charge current if the cpu needs more power, then later increase the charge current when the CPU load decreases. This requires knowing the power limits of the PSU to avoid overloading it (which could crash the machine, damage the PSU, etc).

Analogous power path routing is used when charging cellphones – but here there are are less proprietary protocols than Dell’s 1-wire PSID for communicating power capabilities (QC, USB3, etc).

Hmm… So maybe going this route isn’t the best idea. Maybe a more versatile use of these cells would be to get a 150w power inverter for ac power and use the standard dell charger? I could then go without a bms and use my cc cv buck converter for 12v output and then get an AC inverter… I could use my iMax b6 for charging and balance charging… That may work better…

eas
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For ~$25 it looks like you can get a 3rd party car charger for dell laptops.

Also, I’m not sure, but I think the 1-wire chip may be in the plug-end of the cable, rather than back in the charging brick. You might be able to to find a 3rd-party replacement cable with the proper coding, or, if not that, get a used, compatible dell brick (the PC recycler in my neck of the woods sells them for $5-10). Remove the stock cable to use with your battery pack, and then add binding posts or a new cable to the brick and use it to power other things.

.

Philaphlous
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Ok! THanks guys for the help! Change of direction! I just ordered a 150w power inverter, 4s bms and another 12cell battery. I’m going to make a portable powerwall basically. Essentially its going to be a big power bank but AC capable…and not just the puny power banks…this thing should be like 4S8P…. 32 cell power bank… Then I’ll easily be able to power my laptop and anything else. The only unfortunate consequence of this is it’ll be much larger than originally planned. But I’ll try to defeat that with an efficient heatsink which will allow for fanless operation.

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Been testing a few of the LG 18650 S3 cells and they seem to hold around 2150mAh at 1A down to 2.8V. After that they rebound to like 3.35v and I can tap another 100ma out of them at.2A so that’s pretty good I think.

I should get my power inverter today and my last asus battery. I’m planning on building the entire power bank in a Plano storage box that has a hinged top so i can do any maintenance that’s needed to it. Its also clear which I plan to cover most of it in vinyl wrap so well see how that goes. Should be the perfect size case as it fits the 18650 stacked no problem! Should make a nice portable multi use charger for anything I need….laptop etc.

Edit: Got the 3rd laptop battery, power inverter and pieces of equipment that will make me famous some day…hehe jkjk but anyway.. Testing out the inverter now. Running it on a 12V power supply rated for only 5A…so I’m running my laptop on it and charging my phone…not the safest thing in the world but yea, it works and doesn’t get hot too!

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I should probably make a thread for this..which I will if I find time…doubtful but anyway. Wanted to update everyone on my progress. Finished my mobile power wall…(Need to come up with a better name for it)

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Pulled 6 Sony US18650GR (I think G7 version 2400mAh) out of an Acer AS09A41 laptop battery.

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Need some advice. First pull.

I pulled from a Dell that’s about 3 years old 6, ICR 18650-22H Samsung’s.

One was dead and the rest read 2-3.5v.

I put them to charge in my only two chargers one a Nitecore I2 charger and a EBL charger.

2 batteries charged up fine. 2 charged mostly then got quite hot(not untouchable), so I pulled those off to cool. The other wasn’t charging quite right.

Let them set for a couple of days, checked the voltage and they all came down about .30 volts over a couple of days.

I then put them on the Chargers a couple more time and they eventually dropped less and less.

Most recent charge, all 5 even the two that got warm are now charging, cool, show 4.20 volt and are holding that like a new battery would.

Is this normal? Do 18650 pulled batteries need to be conditioned? Charged, charged, charged again until they are back to life. I have searched but couldn’t find the answer I was looking for. Or trash the ones that got warm.

Thanks.

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melainotype wrote:
Pulled 6 Sony US18650GR (I think G7 version 2400mAh) out of an Acer AS09A41 laptop battery.

!{width:25%}https://imgur.com/VqMzMtD.jpg!

Couple weeks back j found the same exact pack. 2 cells were dead the other 4 still tested over 2400. It seems with laptop packs it’s hit and miss abd it’s always surprises me. I’ll find packs 5 6 years old in the recycle bins and test at or near full capacity. And others just a couple years old complelty trashed mah wise

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If they got unreasonably hot during charging. More then your normal temp for your charger enough that you stopped the charge then Ya I would recycle them. And keep the others. No need to take risks the bins will have plenty of 18650s for years to come to scavenge through. I hit my local Lowe’s up once a week. I use to work there so they let me dig through it. Home Depot Bogart’s the bin like your trying to steal something. It’s gotten to the point I don’t even care. When they say something I just walk out with the packs. They can’t do anything. And only loss prevention has the ability to really do anything. And they are only focused on keeping the merchandise from being stolen not recycled materials.

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Philaphlous
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Funner wrote:
Need some advice. First pull.

I pulled from a Dell that’s about 3 years old 6, ICR 18650-22H Samsung’s.

One was dead and the rest read 2-3.5v.

I put them to charge in my only two chargers one a Nitecore I2 charger and a EBL charger.

2 batteries charged up fine. 2 charged mostly then got quite hot(not untouchable), so I pulled those off to cool. The other wasn’t charging quite right.

Let them set for a couple of days, checked the voltage and they all came down about .30 volts over a couple of days.

I then put them on the Chargers a couple more time and they eventually dropped less and less.

Most recent charge, all 5 even the two that got warm are now charging, cool, show 4.20 volt and are holding that like a new battery would.

Is this normal? Do 18650 pulled batteries need to be conditioned? Charged, charged, charged again until they are back to life. I have searched but couldn’t find the answer I was looking for. Or trash the ones that got warm.

Thanks.

Sounds a little iffy if you ask me. I’ve had a few battery packs that are around 1-2V and I can charge them up just fine at a 0.1A rate…takes forever but they actually accept the charge. After that do some discharge testing. Since my imax B6 only does 1A it takes forever to discharge batteries…ugh, that’s the only thing I don’t like about it, wish I could do like 2-3-4AMP discharge… anyway. I’d do like maybe a 0.5A discharge test and see what capacity you get. Run it a few cycles and see if its worth keeping.

Just picked up 2 laptop battery packs off ebay. Seems to be some good deals all of a sudden. Got a supposed new lenovo 63wH 6 cell pack for $6! That should be around 2800-3000mAh per cell…excited to see what I get! I also got a new 9 cell dell battery pack for $9…again $1/cell is my goal here for new cells. Will update the thread sometime in the next two weeks or so once I get them.

I think I’m going to ask my company’s IT department if they have a recycling program or trash the laptop batteries we use… We’ve got over 4000+ employees so surely they see quite a few laptop batteries cycling in and out… maybe I can get my hands on a few.

Philaphlous
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Haha Oh this ebay seller definitely made a mistake. New Lenovo ThinkPad 6 cell battery… 63wh and he sold it for $6. Lol whops. Bought it and it’s already shipped. Will have it today but went back and checked…all other batteries of the seller are $16 not $6. Lol

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Got some great cells! Now I wish I would have ordered more…Oh well. Can’t complain for $1/cell…
Panasonic 18650BD – 3000mah cells!!!

Philaphlous
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Ah darn?!! Guess I can’t win all the time. Got an $9 auction of a battery with pouch cells that are completely dead…. And 3 panasonic 2800mah red cells…. Unfortunately they’re all 0 volts. Seems like I’ve been able to revive 2/3. The third started to get warm from charging and after I took it off the charger at 0.03A it slowly dropped to 1.5v so it’s definitely bad…Maybe I’ll cut it open for a look!

Philaphlous
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Wow I dominate this thread now…

Picked up a PA3612U-1BRS battery off ebay for $9.74. Wasn’t sure if it was going to be genuine or not. Ended up being a genuine Toshiba battery. 6 NCR18650 2700mAh panasonic cells! Another good buy! Not bad for $1.6/cell… The battery must have been old, they were all at 3.2V but I’m charging it right up with no problems! I’ve read these batteries age SUPER well. Same as a Tesla roadster cell!

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Philaphlous wrote:

Got a supposed new lenovo 63wH 6 cell pack for $6! […] I also got a new 9 cell dell battery pack for $9

It’s worth repeating that this only works for “factory” packs. Dell, HP, Lenovo, etc. all get the first best quality 18650s in huge batches; for the off-brands it’s catch-as-catch-can. I have no problem at all running off-brand battery packs in laptops, but that’s a different story.

Philaphlous wrote:
I think I’m going to ask my company’s IT department if they have a recycling program or trash the laptop batteries we use…

So far (it’s only been a few years) that’s the Very Best source I’ve found yet. If your company’s IT department requires factory replacement batteries, you swim in an ocean of free Coulomb storage. Lucky!

“There is no darkness but ignorance.”

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Notebook battery pulls:

HP 628668-001 11.1v 5225mAh, 6 cell, LG LGDBC21865 (ICR18650C2) 2800mAh 4.3v. Mfg date 2012/11 (between 2v and 3.6v, all charged good at 4.2v)

Lenovo TIS 2217-2548, FRU P/N 42T4677, 10.8v 5.2AH, 6 cell, Sanyo UR18650FM 2600mAh 4.2v. Mfg date 2010/01 (2 cells 3.6v, 4 cells 1.6v, all charged)

Toshiba PA3931U-1BRS, 11.1v 5700mAh, 6 cells, Sanyo UR18650ZTA 2900mAh 4.35v. Mg date 2011.07 (all cells 3.9v)

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I keep asking the IT dept at work if they have any old laptops, or at least old battery-packs. Big Smile

Never do. Flat Stare

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Lightbringer wrote:
I keep asking the IT dept at work if they have any old laptops, or at least old battery-packs. Big Smile Never do. :|

Someone got to them first! tongue-out

Our IT just cleaned house and they've handed me 6 Dell packs with ICR18650-28As (4.35V).  They're old, date code 2B12 (Jan 2011) but they hold at least 4.25V for a while. A number of my coworkers have been buying good lights from Nitefox and Sofirn so they will have batts that won't overcharge with potentially poorly calibrated chargers.

Emisar D4 (Nichia & XP-L), Convoy L2, S2&+ w/XP-L, S6, M2, iProtec 1400, Nitenumen 'C8', Fenix HL50 & HP12, XinTD C8, Manker E11, Eagletac D25LC2 Mini, Sofirn SP31, SP32A & SP 33, Thorfire TK15, Thrunite Ti3, various Ultrafire, Defiant 3C triple (2017),...

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Actually, no. They use their phones as flashlights.

I even offered to sell any of mine (box-queens) at-cost or below, or buy ‘em a good light from Amazon or whatever, and never had a single taker.

I once needed an 18650 to test a light, asked IT, and got back “Whut’s a 18650?”.

Guess no one even vapes or anything.

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Ahh, I see. That's funny about the 18650. Some of our IT folks didn't know either. I guess they just heeded warnings not to open the packs. I get to bring 24 hour field operations and management together with technology. The guys prefer not to destroy their phones but it's taken them a little time for them to buy into lithium. We definitely have a few vapers. 

Emisar D4 (Nichia & XP-L), Convoy L2, S2&+ w/XP-L, S6, M2, iProtec 1400, Nitenumen 'C8', Fenix HL50 & HP12, XinTD C8, Manker E11, Eagletac D25LC2 Mini, Sofirn SP31, SP32A & SP 33, Thorfire TK15, Thrunite Ti3, various Ultrafire, Defiant 3C triple (2017),...

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Found a good deal on Panasonic NCR18650 cells for about a buck a piece. I got 2 of thes packs and they are genuine OEM battery packs. All cells measured around 3.4V out of the box, and my Opus BT-C3100 and XTAR Dragon chargers measured all cells very close to 3000mAh. The Opus charger showed just over 3100mAh on each cell and the XTAR Dragon showed just under 3000mAh. All cells measure between 35mOhms and 37mOhms using the XTAR Dragon IR probes.

Edit- in case the auction price changes, I payed $12.99 per pack of 6 cells.

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