BLF Community Battery Pulls Overview Thread (Laptop packs and Tool Packs)

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snakebite
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generic hp mu06 replacement from 2014.
controller burned up.
6 fp 1800 green.
2 at 0v so recycled.
4 remaining average 1830@1a
ir 70mohm.
another “5200mah” pack that is really 3600.
anyone know who fp is?

gauss163
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snakebite wrote:
[…] anyone know who fp is?

Might be Zhongshan Focuspower Electronic Limited.

jf_smm
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Another Thinkpad 92P1101 = 6 CGR18650D (Panasonic) cells were junk but salvaged insulator disks for future rewrap needs.

WojtekimbieR
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My dad approached me with a 5000mAh powerbank with a broken micro-USB charging port. I was happy to pull the two decent 18650's out until I measured they were at 1.45V. Double-checked with my AA NiMH to make sure the multimeter wasn't broken. I don't have any experience bringing dead cells back to life, so I've thrown both away...

Just for a moment... Okay I may stay a little longer

snakebite
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hp mo06
blinking charge led meaning bad battery.
x out battery in windows.
6 grey panasonic ncr18650 at 3.96v/pr
testing now.
customer stated they were getting 3+ hours from it and had only used it to warning 2 times in the 6 months since they bought it from hp.
so likely a bms failure.and good cells.

snakebite
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2 cells tested.
2696 and 2698@1a
nearly new.

snakebite
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another doa mu06 replacement “5200mah”
6 red yle(yiklik) 2200.
all over 2300 and 60mohm.
still a lie but not as big a lie as others.
and these cells perform well at 3a in a s2+
seems to be a high % of doa with these packs.
but free cells!
i have yet to have a seller pay postage for return of the duds.
they know these packs have a high doa and its not worth the postage to get them back nor the time to test before shipping.

Zulumoose
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Nearly a year ago I got a replacement laptop battery pack for my old HP Probook, which must be maybe 8-10 years old. The old battery pack was lasting 20 minutes at best. The new pack died recently and was replaced under warranty with a very good one so I thought I don’t need the old original pack as a backup any more, time to strip it. I thought if I am lucky only 1 or 2 cells will be dead, and maybe I will get 2-4 viable 18650’s for use in low powered lights.

I was amazed when I pulled out 6 grey LG cells and tested them on my Lii500, all were within about 5% of 2000mAh, and all were sitting at about 4.05V after at least 6 months unused. They all have no problem running a Convoy s2+ 8×7135 on high, It must have been the circuitry that was faulty.

I will test them all individually for runtime, but such positive results make me want to hunt down more old laptops and then I will need more devices to put them in, and more chargers, and cases, and then I may need to save up for a divorce…..

You guys know how it goes.

Beam me up!

snakebite
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yes you are already too far down the rabbit hole to turn back.
and it is surprising how many useful cells lurk in “bad” laptop packs.
enough that folks build powerwalls with them.

Zulumoose wrote:
Nearly a year ago I got a replacement laptop battery pack for my old HP Probook, which must be maybe 8-10 years old. The old battery pack was lasting 20 minutes at best. The new pack died recently and was replaced under warranty with a very good one so I thought I don’t need the old original pack as a backup any more, time to strip it. I thought if I am lucky only 1 or 2 cells will be dead, and maybe I will get 2-4 viable 18650’s for use in low powered lights.

I was amazed when I pulled out 6 grey LG cells and tested them on my Lii500, all were within about 5% of 2000mAh, and all were sitting at about 4.05V after at least 6 months unused. They all have no problem running a Convoy s2+ 8×7135 on high, It must have been the circuitry that was faulty.

I will test them all individually for runtime, but such positive results make me want to hunt down more old laptops and then I will need more devices to put them in, and more chargers, and cases, and then I may need to save up for a divorce…..

You guys know how it goes.

G0OSE
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Just a quick question – I have salvaged 18 ncr18650’s from a bosch drill pack (less than a year old), I noticed 1 cell with brown leaking down the side so I disposed of that one and I’m hoping someone binned a perfectly good pack because of 1 bad cell…
So I have kinda cut/snapped off all the little welded tags, but the cells are a bit rough/spikey sharp on the ends now where the contact welds were and some still have bits of bent tag, what do you guys do to remedy this? flatten them off I mean, a dremel maybe?
Thanks in advance Wink

Hobo
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G0OSE wrote:
Just a quick question – I have salvaged 18 ncr18650’s from a bosch drill pack (less than a year old), I noticed 1 cell with brown leaking down the side so I disposed of that one and I’m hoping someone binned a perfectly good pack because of 1 bad cell… So I have kinda cut/snapped off all the little welded tags, but the cells are a bit rough/spikey sharp on the ends now where the contact welds were and some still have bits of bent tag, what do you guys do to remedy this? flatten them off I mean, a dremel maybe? Thanks in advance Wink

I just grab them with pliers and twist them off. Works pretty good.

8) Lube Threads Everyday 8)

AgentSteel
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Pulled some US18650GR (Sony) from a laptop battery pack. 8 cells, 6 were dead (0V), the other 2 were ~2.0V Shocked

But I put those 2 in my Xtar VC2 and they charged (~2500mAh).

Quidquid latine dictum sit, altum sonatur

Philaphlous
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I’m back from a little hiatus…. My laptop pulls have been working great! My 91 cell ebike battery has held up quite well and right now it just sitting on my desk in our apartment office….little risky but shouldn’t be…lol I think my bms limits the current draw to 30amps on my ebike because even if I jam the throttle down itll only pull around 1300-1500w which is about 30amps. I took a nasty and very stupid fall on my bike one morning and that made me put the bike away till next year. Lol anyway

I’m back at it! Just ordered 2 more laptop batteries. Apparently theyre genuine laptop batteries but I’m a tad skeptical for good reasons. I think they’re either 9 or 12 cell batteries. I’m planning on making a 7S 19.5v laptop power supply for my Dell xps. I’ve confirmed my cc cv buck converter should handle the power load for the laptop so I’m quite excited about this project! Will keep you guys updated when I get the laptop batteries.

eas
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Cool. I was going to build a pack for my MacBook Pro, but then it died, and the replacement uses USB-C + USB PD for power, which on the one hand, opens up lots of options, but on the other hand, requires smarter circuitry.

YZX had some boards that provides USB PD from any DC input, but they are a bit spendy, so I just bought a 30W RavPower USB-PD power bank. I have a couple of 27W USB-PD car chargers. I originally planned to use the guts of one of them for a battery pack.

If you build a laptop pack, you might want to look into skipping the buck converter all together. A lot of laptops seem to support a range of input voltages. For example, big high-wattage chargers may be 19.5v, while a lower wattage, compact, portable charger might be 16 or 14v. Check the specs on the options for your Dell to get an idea of what is possible. It could be simpler, but also, potentially, more efficient. Once you have the pack built, it would be worth comparing runtime with and without the buck converter.

I’m curious. How are you interconnecting connecting the cells for your packs.

My blog with battery pack teardowns, reverse engineering and other battery-related info:

http://powercartel.com

Laptop smart battery PackProbe

Philaphlous
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eas wrote:
Cool. I was going to build a pack for my MacBook Pro, but then it died, and the replacement uses USB-C + USB PD for power, which on the one hand, opens up lots of options, but on the other hand, requires smarter circuitry.

YZX had some boards that provides USB PD from any DC input, but they are a bit spendy, so I just bought a 30W RavPower USB-PD power bank. I have a couple of 27W USB-PD car chargers. I originally planned to use the guts of one of them for a battery pack.

If you build a laptop pack, you might want to look into skipping the buck converter all together. A lot of laptops seem to support a range of input voltages. For example, big high-wattage chargers may be 19.5v, while a lower wattage, compact, portable charger might be 16 or 14v. Check the specs on the options for your Dell to get an idea of what is possible. It could be simpler, but also, potentially, more efficient. Once you have the pack built, it would be worth comparing runtime with and without the buck converter.

I’m curious. How are you interconnecting connecting the cells for your packs.

I need the buck converter because I need to ensure I’m running proper voltage and the laptop detects it as a genuine charger. I thought about doing a usb C but realized 60-100w on a USB c pin out is probably not the best idea. A standard charger cord is much safer. This should easily double or even triple my battery capacity compared to my stock laptop battery.

I also want to use 18650 holders in a case rather than solder everything together. That will allow me to use the cells for anything else if I want to

gauss163
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Philaphlous wrote:
I need the buck converter because I need to ensure I’m running proper voltage and the laptop detects it as a genuine charger […]

Beware that some laptops (e.g. Dell) use proprietary protocols for detecting genuine PSUs. E.g. Dell uses a 1-wire protocal (PSID) on its barrel tips to communicate power supply capabilities. It will refuse to charge the battery if you use a PSU that doesn’t support the protocol, and it may force the laptop into low performance mode, etc.

Philaphlous
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Oh…lol If I remember correctly on lower wattage power supplies it’ll keep the battery at the same level…so if it maintains the same level without charging great…but we shall see…

Cracked open the asus batteries. I couldn’t believe it. A 12 cell battery for $10 on ebay…that’s actually genuine… Authentic LGD 18650 S3 cells! 2200mAh, nothing to write home about but better than some Chinese knockoff cells…

They’re these cells: http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/LG%2018650%20S3%202200mAh%20%2...

Unfortunately the power delivery isn’t too high but should be high enough to supply my laptop. 7S2P

I ordered 18650 holders so I can remove each cell if need be. I’m going to beef up the springs and bus bars so resistance is kept to a minimum. Pretty amazed I got 24 cells for $20..lol. Every cell in the first pack is 3.60v even so pretty good. Should also make a nice addition to my Convoy C8!

gauss163
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Philaphlous wrote:
Oh…lol If I remember correctly on lower wattage power supplies it’ll keep the battery at the same level…so if it maintains the same level without charging great..!

Yes, non-Dell PSUs will not be allowed to charge the battery.The Dell PSUs communicate their power capabilities to the laptop’s power management module. This allows the laptop power management software to safely and optimally route power to meet demands of various modules, e.g. it may decrease the battery charge current if the cpu needs more power, then later increase the charge current when the CPU load decreases. This requires knowing the power limits of the PSU to avoid overloading it (which could crash the machine, damage the PSU, etc).

Analogous power path routing is used when charging cellphones – but here there are less proprietary protocols than Dell’s 1-wire PSID for communicating power capabilities (QC, USB3/PD, etc).

Philaphlous
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gauss163 wrote:
Philaphlous wrote:
Oh…lol If I remember correctly on lower wattage power supplies it’ll keep the battery at the same level…so if it maintains the same level without charging great..!

Yes, non-Dell PSUs will not be allowed to charge the battery.The Dell PSUs communicate their power capabilities to the laptop’s power management module. This allows the laptop power management software to safely and optimally route power to meet demands of various modules, e.g. it may decrease the battery charge current if the cpu needs more power, then later increase the charge current when the CPU load decreases. This requires knowing the power limits of the PSU to avoid overloading it (which could crash the machine, damage the PSU, etc).

Analogous power path routing is used when charging cellphones – but here there are are less proprietary protocols than Dell’s 1-wire PSID for communicating power capabilities (QC, USB3, etc).

Hmm… So maybe going this route isn’t the best idea. Maybe a more versatile use of these cells would be to get a 150w power inverter for ac power and use the standard dell charger? I could then go without a bms and use my cc cv buck converter for 12v output and then get an AC inverter… I could use my iMax b6 for charging and balance charging… That may work better…

eas
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For ~$25 it looks like you can get a 3rd party car charger for dell laptops.

Also, I’m not sure, but I think the 1-wire chip may be in the plug-end of the cable, rather than back in the charging brick. You might be able to to find a 3rd-party replacement cable with the proper coding, or, if not that, get a used, compatible dell brick (the PC recycler in my neck of the woods sells them for $5-10). Remove the stock cable to use with your battery pack, and then add binding posts or a new cable to the brick and use it to power other things.

My blog with battery pack teardowns, reverse engineering and other battery-related info:

http://powercartel.com

Laptop smart battery PackProbe

Philaphlous
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Ok! THanks guys for the help! Change of direction! I just ordered a 150w power inverter, 4s bms and another 12cell battery. I’m going to make a portable powerwall basically. Essentially its going to be a big power bank but AC capable…and not just the puny power banks…this thing should be like 4S8P…. 32 cell power bank… Then I’ll easily be able to power my laptop and anything else. The only unfortunate consequence of this is it’ll be much larger than originally planned. But I’ll try to defeat that with an efficient heatsink which will allow for fanless operation.

gauss163
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eas wrote:
For ~$25 it looks like you can get a 3rd party car charger for dell laptops.

That’ll work, but you need to be sure to get one that reports high-enough power capabilities or else you’ll be charging the battery very slowly and running in crippled low-performance mode. Also some of them are not very efficient.

eas wrote:
Also, I’m not sure, but I think the 1-wire chip may be in the plug-end of the cable, rather than back in the charging brick.

No, it’s on the PSU PCB. e.g. see here.

Philaphlous
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Been testing a few of the LG 18650 S3 cells and they seem to hold around 2150mAh at 1A down to 2.8V. After that they rebound to like 3.35v and I can tap another 100ma out of them at.2A so that’s pretty good I think.

I should get my power inverter today and my last asus battery. I’m planning on building the entire power bank in a Plano storage box that has a hinged top so i can do any maintenance that’s needed to it. Its also clear which I plan to cover most of it in vinyl wrap so well see how that goes. Should be the perfect size case as it fits the 18650 stacked no problem! Should make a nice portable multi use charger for anything I need….laptop etc.

Edit: Got the 3rd laptop battery, power inverter and pieces of equipment that will make me famous some day…hehe jkjk but anyway.. Testing out the inverter now. Running it on a 12V power supply rated for only 5A…so I’m running my laptop on it and charging my phone…not the safest thing in the world but yea, it works and doesn’t get hot too!

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