BLF GT official support thread [FAQ updated 11 Jan 2018]

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ToyKeeper
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R10500 wrote:
a particularly YOLO ninja Big Smile

That is an oddly accurate description.

Anyway, I hope people can get the GT issues worked out.

R10500
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ok…. i know it’s been pretty long since the craze over the GT… but does anyone remember as well as i do that stock GA’s were supposed to work in these things? or is it just me…. the 35E’s did the trick by the way

JasonWW
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R10500 wrote:
ok…. i know it’s been pretty long since the craze over the GT… but does anyone remember as well as i do that stock GA’s were supposed to work in these things? or is it just me…. the 35E’s did the trick by the way

Panny GA are a good choice.

Did you figure out why your light wasn’t working?

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R10500
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Exactly, and i’m pretty damn sure i was using GA’s the last time i turned them on but now only the 35e’s work. Perhaps a spring issue? That’d be strange too since i never leave my batteries installed so how could the springs have become permanently compressed or something….

JasonWW
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Did you do all the checks in post 300 and 301?

There might have been one button top that wasn’t tall enough to make contact. Measure the carrier voltage. If no voltage, them inspect the button top clearance.

You can see that the clearance is tight.

Companies buy button tops to add to batteries from different places, so their height and width is all over the place. There are no standards for battery diameter, length, button top height, flat top height, etc… unlike AA, C, D, etc…

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Texas_Ace
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Are the GA’s button top? The brand of cell should not matter as long as it makes contact on both ends like Jason said.

I use laptop cells in my GT for example with solder blob.

R10500
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they’re stock raised top but not button top. i still remember them working in these lights though. no voltage reading with them for sure. looks like it was a good idea to purchase the 35e’s anyhow.

teacher
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R10500 wrote:
they’re stock raised top but not button top. i still remember them working in these lights though. no voltage reading with them for sure. looks like it was a good idea to purchase the 35e’s anyhow.
Unless you modify the battery carrier & physically remove the reverse polarity protection, the GA’s will not work unless they are button tops. (or you solder b(. )( .)b them.)

Those are the facts. Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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JasonWW
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R10500 wrote:
they’re stock raised top but not button top. i still remember them working in these lights though. no voltage reading with them for sure. looks like it was a good idea to purchase the 35e’s anyhow.

Raised flat tops? I am surprised they worked at all. You need this much extra height.

And no more than this amount of width.

I bet if you add a little solder blob they would work just fine.

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teacher
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GA’s with a raised ‘flat top’ will not worked.

IF they ‘somehow’ worked once upon a time… they would work again. It would be repeatable.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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R10500
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haha looks like this hobby has failed to illuminate my memory somehow. looks like i remember wrong after all….. oh yeah… i did use GA’s… those with button tops! i just forgot i even had them having used the flat tops most of the time. sorry, false alarm, thanks for the help guys!

JasonWW
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Do the GA’s with button top work in the light or is there still an issue with them?

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

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teacher
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@ R10500…. Thumbs Up No apology necessary, stuff happens & memory sometimes fails. Big Smile . Wink

Just glad the mystery had such a simple solution….. Beer

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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bluereidon
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Guys sorry if the question is basic but do the BLF GT/GT70 take flat tops Samsung 30Q’s.Its pretty hard to find button tops now Sad

Texas_Ace
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No, they must have button top unless you remove the polarity protection.

The best option is to just solder blob the cells in most cases. This is what I do to mine.

bluereidon
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Texas_Ace wrote:
No, they must have button top unless you remove the polarity protection.

The best option is to just solder blob the cells in most cases. This is what I do to mine.


I guess I will do that or I read I can buy and put little magnet on the positive side.I cant find any 30Qs with button tops Sad Maybe all are gone cause the users of BLF GT bought them all ahhaha Smile
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bluereidon wrote:

I guess I will do that or I read I can buy and put little magnet on the positive side.I cant find any 30Qs with button tops Sad Maybe all are gone cause the users of BLF GT bought them all ahhaha Smile
Here you go… Samsung 30Q Button Tops at Liion Wholesale. These are genuine cells and the Button Tops are correctly installed.

Magnets suck (imo) ….
…. either get the Button Tops or do solder b(. )( .)bs. Thumbs Up

EDIT:… Ooops, I just realized you are not in the USA. Sorry, my bad.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

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Texas_Ace
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The magnet is only a last ditch effort type of thing, solder blobing is much better.

hank
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Quote:
I read I can buy and put little magnet on the positive side

Danger Bluereldon!

Magnets or any little metal spacer can slip to the side and cause a short circuit.
This is a bad thing.
Don’t risk it.

bluereidon
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hank wrote:
Quote:
I read I can buy and put little magnet on the positive side

Danger Bluereldon!

Magnets or any little metal spacer can slip to the side and cause a short circuit.
This is a bad thing.
Don’t risk it.


OK guys I will soldier I can’t find any dealer for button tops who ships to Bulgaria
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bluereidon wrote:
OK guys I will soldier I can’t find any dealer for button tops who ships to Bulgaria

https://www.batterijservice.nl/en/samsung-inr18650-30q-3000mah-unprotected-buttontop.html

Olight: M3XS-UT, S Mini CU, R50 CU, R50 Pro LE, M2R, I3T Cu, S30R III, Marauder X6, X7R, X9R - BLF: Q8, A6, GT, GT mini - Emisar: D1s, D4Ti - Reylight: Tripple Dawn, Ti Lan 

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bluereidon
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MichielSanders wrote:
bluereidon wrote:
OK guys I will soldier I can’t find any dealer for button tops who ships to Bulgaria

https://www.batterijservice.nl/en/samsung-inr18650-30q-3000mah-unprotected-buttontop.html


Thank you so much will contact them!
bluereidon
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Since Banggood don’t offer anymore GT70 NW,can you tell me is the CW version too blueish?What Kelvins are they?I am a NW variant fan,but they don’t have it in stock Sad

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bluereidon wrote:
Since Banggood don’t offer anymore GT70 NW,can you tell me is the CW version too blueish?What Kelvins are they?

Post 4 of GT70 thread. I added the tint details myself.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1344272#comment-1344272

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Texas_Ace
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Personally I don’t care for the CW version, it does have a blue tint. Although I will say this about any CW light pretty much.

Some like this though as it gives a “light saber effect”

My personal favorite is a 4000k 80CRI in the GT70.

teacher
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bluereidon wrote:
Since Banggood don’t offer anymore GT70 NW,can you tell me is the CW version too blueish?What Kelvins are they?I am a NW variant fan,but they don’t have it in stock Sad
Is it ‘angry blue’…. NO, not to me. I prefer NW 5000K – 5500K, but the CW GT70 is not too bad… to me.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

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Hugh Johnson
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I received my GT in May. I have a couple of issues but just noticed one that is more critical (hardly used it yet):

1. Only one battery carrier works. I’ve been running 4 30Q’s and finally tried them in the other carrier. Doesn’t light.
2. Tail cap only spins with heavy force. I linked a fix to this somewhere when I was waiting for mine. I’ll dig that out.
3. I bought the lens cover with the package. Never received it. Moved a few months after getting the GT. Not sure where to turn anymore.

My big issue is the battery carrier. I’ll eventually get more batteries. Now that my attention is turned back to it I’d like to sort out the rest. Is there any kind soul that can provide some advice?

teacher
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1. Are all the screws tight in the non-working carrier?
1.a. Are the batteries proper contact on the positive end??

2. O-ring is messed up/improperly installed. Disassemble tail cap & install properly

3. No idea

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

JasonWW
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Check the voltage on the carrier. If all 4 batteries are making contact you’ll see 16+ volts. If you don’t see any volts, then maybe one of the batteries are not making contact.

Make sure the carrier is facing the correct direction.

The tail caps where the o-ring is pinched didn’t spin at all, IIRC. If yours spins, just put it in the correct position (in line with the other mount) and your good to go.

Otherwise you can take the sticker off and take the screws out to see what the problem is.

Did you buy the GT through Neal? If you added the cover, then he would usually fit it into the GT box with the light. I would contact Neal and let him know.

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scr79423
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anyone know if the GT70 is glued?

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