OSRAM CSLNM1.TG & CULNM1.TG 1mm², CSLPM1.TG & CULPM1.TG 2mm²

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djozz
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Funtastic wrote:
Does any know which driver I could use in my BLF GT with the W1. I’m sure it would have ridiculous throw.

I haven’t modded my GT with a different driver yet, but a SRK/Q8 size driver sounds close enough to adapt? Mtn Electronics I believe sells a SRK driver that works only from a bank of 7135 chips, without additional FET, so you can load it with the exact amount of current needed for the W1.

(And the cell carriers must be adapted to parallel of course)

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I had the FW1 in a BLF GT..

The CULNM1.TG 1mm is better 1.4Mcd. Still need testing and tuning/focusing and at longer distances outside, the weather has been cold and rainy for the last 4 days… Posted last week in the “what did you mod” thread for the rest of the build. Pics of the FW1..

This pic is deceiving in real life it’s just a small micro dot hitting the top of this tree at this distance the beam is still narrowing down….culminating down… is that the right technical word?

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luminarium iaculator wrote:

Well Enderman we don’t actually need diving zoomie. Or maybe you need one? LOL Orings are more than suitable for regular IPX something usage of light. I did tests where I tossed regular 1503 light just modded with different thicker sets of oring into a bucket of 25 liters of water for 24 hours and there were no water leak into light or switch Wink . Brinyte B158 should also survive mentioned situation but without any modding with better orings.

I don’t find extra flat lens on top as necessity for waterproofing but it ain’t bad as idea… There are zoomies that use front lens Curui 1706 and CRELANT 7G5CH.

But simple double Oring combination everywhere and I would prefer thread twisting/rotating zoomie since your mentioned effect “internal air pressure would make the head simply bounce back into the original position” will not happen with threaded zoomie action because such action is powerful enough to squeeze air out of the zoomie neck section with double(or even triple oring) during head twisting action.


Threaded zoomies are hard to change focus with a single hand.
If air can squeeze past a double or triple o-ring, then it’s either a bad design or a crappy o-ring.
In a case like that, the air should compress, or there should be vacuum, long before any air gets past a properly positioned o-ring.
The amount of volume change inside a focusing light is not a ton, so I would be very concerned if air was getting past your o-rings.
Definitely not IPX8 or 9 in that case.

Agro wrote:

It’s not the only one. And may not be the best one.
The one that I see as potentially best is with use of air permeable membrane (gore-tex-like) that allows air to move in and out without letting water in.

Yeah that still wouldn’t work underwater where there is no air though.
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Enderman the God has made us two hands Smile . Zoomie light ain’t PCP air rifle so softer kind of orings in flashlight is just enough. They don’t have to be made out of harder materials and to snugly fitted so they can enable air pressure loos during focusing action while they will still easily maintain waterproof level. So it does not make me concerned even tiny bit… Everything is like it should be. There is no other way…

And did you missed out 24 hours test in a bucket of water? Is that not enough? There is also thread in CPF and few tube videos with waterproof test of these zoomies if you don’t trust me.

So if you want diving light buy a diving light(there are 80% of nation that won’t dive) but if you want regular waterproof zoomie that can be easily achieved and without any fuss and talking about that and reflector lights should certainly not be considered as only good and reliable waterproof lights only because of totally untrue waterproof failure stigma on zoomie lights.

Even that “bad” one handed action, push-pull non waterproof zoomies will withstand heavy rain, drop in a puddle of water etc… So they are more than waterproof for most EDC carry tasks.

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luminarium iaculator wrote:
Enderman the God has made us two hands Smile . Zoomie light ain’t PCP air rifle so softer kind of orings in flashlight is just enough. They don’t have to be made out of harder materials and to snugly fitted so they can enable air pressure loos during focusing action while they will still easily maintain waterproof level. So it does not make me concerned even tiny bit… Everything is like it should be. There is no other way…

And did you missed out 24 hours test in a bucket of water? Is that not enough? There is also thread in CPF and few tube videos with waterproof test of these zoomies if you don’t trust me.

So if you want diving light buy a diving light(there are 80% of nation that won’t dive) but if you want regular waterproof zoomie that can be easily achieved and without any fuss and talking about that and reflector lights should certainly not be considered as only good and reliable waterproof lights only because of totally untrue waterproof failure stigma on zoomie lights.

Even that “bad” one handed action, push-pull non waterproof zoomies will withstand heavy rain, drop in a puddle of water etc… So they are more than waterproof for most EDC carry tasks.


A lot here depends on use. In your use 2-handed zooming is fine – and that’s fine. I’m with Enderman in finding it undesirable. Actually for my use it’s a deal breaker because what I love about zoomies is how slight hand movements make the focus follow my eyes. For that to work zooming must be very fast which doesn’t work at all with twisty zoomies and works badly with push-pull ones that have thick o-rings.
So…not all zoomie uses are the same and not all waterproofing attempt works equally well for all cases.
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luminarium iaculator wrote:
Enderman the God has made us two hands Smile . Zoomie light ain’t PCP air rifle so softer kind of orings in flashlight is just enough. They don’t have to be made out of harder materials and to snugly fitted so they can enable air pressure loos during focusing action while they will still easily maintain waterproof level. So it does not make me concerned even tiny bit… Everything is like it should be. There is no other way…

And did you missed out 24 hours test in a bucket of water? Is that not enough? There is also thread in CPF and few tube videos with waterproof test of these zoomies if you don’t trust me.

So if you want diving light buy a diving light(there are 80% of nation that won’t dive) but if you want regular waterproof zoomie that can be easily achieved and without any fuss and talking about that and reflector lights should certainly not be considered as only good and reliable waterproof lights only because of totally untrue waterproof failure stigma on zoomie lights.

Even that “bad” one handed action, push-pull non waterproof zoomies will withstand heavy rain, drop in a puddle of water etc… So they are more than waterproof for most EDC carry tasks.


Not sure if you’ve ever used a led lenser zoomie, but the one-handed focusing is far superior to any kind of twist focus.
Instantly focus or unfocus the light while you carry or are doing something with your other hand.

Also, your little water bucket test will of course pass, the real test is when you have 1 or 2m of water pressure on top.
We’re not talking about 30m+ diving here, just the kind of pressure you get if it falls in a pool or gets sprayed with a water hose.
Much more pressure than a few centimeters of water in a bucket.

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Put together a c8+ with 21700 bat and 5400k flat white 2mm(I think its called m21a)

Very nice throwy beam but more usable than flat white 1mm.
Does heat up fast with stock 4 mode 6amp driver.

Still waiting for ss bezel…

weight is little to high for edc. Normal c8+ is better.

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polarweis wrote:
Put together a c8+ with 21700 bat and 5400k flat white 2mm(I think its called m21a)

Very nice throwy beam but more usable than flat white 1mm.
Does heat up fast with stock 4 mode 6amp driver.

Did you use a centering and and where did you get it? MTN is out of stock

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will34 wrote:
polarweis wrote:
Put together a c8+ with 21700 bat and 5400k flat white 2mm(I think its called m21a)

Very nice throwy beam but more usable than flat white 1mm.
Does heat up fast with stock 4 mode 6amp driver.

Did you use a centering and and where did you get it? MTN is out of stock

I got mine on the Convoy AliExpress store

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)

YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)

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Funtastic wrote:

I got mine on the Convoy AliExpress store

Oh thanks found it, I was searching with the wrong keywords, centering ring and spacer and it was “gasket”

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I also put together a C8 with 2mm WF a bit ago using convoy’s configurable linear driver. Did ~180kcd at the max ~7.5A.

As far as centering rings what I have done is just glue the XP or XM centering ring down on the MCPCB in the correct location. I find I can get it nearly perfect just by eye. I have even been known to use double sided tape in a pinch. Innocent

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Gluing it is better than using the 3030 gasket as it’s not always perfectly centered. Love the centering rings that are cut precisely for the led, not just a circle.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)

YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)

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JaredM wrote:

A build with his '5A' linear -bistro- Biscotti driver delviering 4.62A and WF1 in an M2 yielded 80Klux. …

Nice to know. As it happened with my M1 with customized weird ramping firmware driver (current-limited to 5A theoretical by replacing the sense resistor stack), where the effective output current was a bit less at ≈4.75A. I also had to custom file a 3535 gasket back then, and ended up obtaining 101+Kcd on a cold start.

I am to build an M2 now, too. Reflector area wise, the M2 is 81.169% the surface of the M1. So, your build looks to be right as it is. 

Wed, 04/29/2020 - 06:48

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
I had the FW1 in a BLF GT..

What driver did you use?

How is that mcpcb being held down?

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)

YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)

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Funtastic wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
I had the FW1 in a BLF GT..

What driver did you use?

How is that mcpcb being held down?

. Mtn.SRK 7135 driver 5.2amps at the LED.

. Thermal paste- Clamped-Thermal glue (very little)

. SBT90.2 and a mod’d Q8 driver is going to replace it soon…

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Funtastic wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
I had the FW1 in a BLF GT..

What driver did you use?

How is that mcpcb being held down?

. Mtn.SRK 7135 driver 5.2amps at the LED.

. Thermal paste- Clamped-Thermal glue (very little)

. SBT90.2 and a mod’d Q8 driver is going to replace it soon…

Thank you

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)

YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)

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Installed the 2mm white flat into my L21A and get 1.35km at 1200 lumens ANSI. That’s impressive

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)

YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)

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Barkuti wrote:
I am to build an M2 now, too. area wise, the M2 is 81.169% the surface of the M1. So, your build looks to be right as it is.

Are you sure about the reflector size relationship between the m1 and m2? I was always under the impression they were much closer in ID/effective area..

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Pretty sure JaredM, check my latest post in the Convoy thread.

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I measure 25.6mm internal diameter for my M2. I believe the M1 is ~1mm larger. So that would mean about ~7% more area. Could you take an internal diameter measurement of the M1 please?

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Funtastic wrote:
Installed the 2mm white flat into my L21A and get 1.35km at 1200 lumens ANSI. That’s impressive

Nice results!
I have a L21A with 2mm as well.
How is your focusing and what driver did you use?

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JaredM my calculations are based on reflector surface, which is proportional to r² or d² times height. This is where the 80+ish figure comes from (M2 reflector surface area divided between M1 reflector surface area). Reflector diameter and height figures taken from the Convoy store M1 & M2 reflectors' advertisement.

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Barkuti, you mean r^2 or d

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Barkuti wrote:

JaredM my calculations are based on reflector surface, which is proportional to r² or d² times height. This is where the 80+ish figure comes from (M2 reflector surface area divided between M1 reflector surface area). Reflector diameter and height figures taken from the Convoy store M1 & M2 reflectors’ advertisement.

If I’m understanding you correctly, that is not the correct way to calculate the reflector area. It’s not the actual reflective surface area we care about, it’s the frontal area; the area apparent to a viewer far away looking straight into the beam. It is A=(pi/4)(D^2-d^2) where D is the large diameter and d is the diameter of the inner circle around the emitter that is not part of the parabaloid. Basically just subtracting the small circle area from the larger circle area.

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I didn't mean to calculate the reflector area, I meant to have an idea of the relative area of both. That's it.

A = (π / 4)(D² - d²), EasyB? This cannot be right, in my honest opinion. If it were so, I could make a flat reflector (without height) and it would work fine throw wise. Reflector height and shape matters too, we know. Therefore, you may want to add height somewhere in that equation (???).

The shape of both reflectors is also a little bit different, although overall close. Even considering this EasyB's simplified equation could show some close comparative value here. Using EasyB's equation, the M2's area versus M1 is 81.706% (considering ∅31.8mm and ∅28.9mm M1 and M2 reflector diameters, and ∅7mm hole for both). This is to be expected, it is just missing a multiplication by the M2/M1 reflector height quotient to obtain the 81.169% number I got. 

But well, once I build my M2 we'll better know.

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What matters is the frontal area of the parabaloid, assuming the LED is in focus, so when looking into the reflector you see it filled up with the image of yellow phosphor. The flat reflector you mention would not focus the light from the LED so you would not count it as effective area.

Consider just a flat domeless LED. It has a fixed area, say 2mm^2. Now imagine looking at it from the side so you only see a very small sliver of brightness. The light intensity at that viewing point is very low because the area of the LED apparent from that perspective is very low. The same concept applies with the reflector; just the apparent area matters.

Also the numbers you’re using for the diameters for the M2/M1 reflector are the outer diameters I think, not the diameter of the reflecting area. See here for measurements.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/43433

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Barkuti wrote:
If it were so, I could make a flat reflector (without height) and it would work fine throw wise. Reflector height and shape matters too, we know. Therefore, you may want to add height somewhere in that equation (???).

Technically yes you can make a reflector without height, called a flat mirror, however the focal point would be at infinity so your LED would have to be inifitely far away.
You can make a shallow recoil reflector, with very little depth, and as long as the LED is at the focal point yes it would throw the same distance as a deep reflector with the saame front area.
Play around with the Reflectors #1 and #2 changing their diameter and focal distance, you will see how the parabola changes shape.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/57049
While the depth of the reflector changes how many lumens are collected, the frontal area is what determines throw.
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Thanks for the contributions. I just took naked eye caliper measurements of the outer diameter of M1 and M2 reflectors looking right in front of my M1 and my M2 host: ≈27.6mm for the M1, and ≈25.4mm for the M2. Substracting the area of a ∅7mm hole in both cases, the M2 reflector front surface area is ≈83.641% that of the M1.

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