I thought I did follow the diagram with the indent but must have rotated it last minute
Cree also uses an indent in the thermal pad often, facing to the anode.
In the case of these Osram emitters, their thermal pad indent faces to the cathode.
This is the reason of your problem, I'd say. I've reflown many types and brands of emitters, and this is what happens with presumptions.
—
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Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
White – KW CSLNM1.TG – 3030 (1mm²) in stock
White – KW CSLPM1.TG – 3030 (2mm²) Not purchased
White – KW CULNM1.TG – 4040 (1mm²) Not purchased
White – KW CULPM1.TG – 4040 (2mm²) It has been purchased and the goods are in transit.
Red – KR CSLNM1.23 – 3030 (1mm²) 7L-2-0 200pcs in stock
Blue – KB CSLNM1.14 – 3030 (1mm²) Not purchased
Green – KP CSLNM1.F1 – 3030 (1mm²) 8P-A-0 167pcs in stock
Green – KP CSLPM1.F1 – 3030 (2mm²) 6P-A-0 200pcs in stock
Yellow – KY CSLNM1.FY – 3030 (1mm²) Not purchased
Just thought I’d share in case anyone wants some Red or Green from Convoy since it’s not listed on the store
I hope, if he is going to stock the CULPM1.TG (“Boost HX”), that he will also start stocking 4040-footprint centering rings. Would be awesome for my Luxeon V emitters…
1mm2 underwater test
Compared with XM-L2 and later with XHP35HI (70mm reflector)
That is something new
I am not diving and I think you are very brave. Hope that some manufacturers will have zoom underwater light cause it would be far better than reflector based lights for diving. On video when you have to inspect something up close on 1-2meters from your diving mask beam of reflector light is just to intense. Wide flood mode of zoomie light would be perfect for such situations…
1mm2 underwater test
Compared with XM-L2 and later with XHP35HI (70mm reflector)
That is something new
I am not diving and I think you are very brave. Hope that some manufacturers will have zoom underwater light cause it would be far better than reflector based lights for diving. On video when you have to inspect something up close on 1-2meters from your diving mask beam of reflector light is just to intense. Wide flood mode of zoomie light would be perfect for such situations…
Zooming in a waterproof dive light would be… difficult at best.
Is this dtp or not? This is what's sent from the AliExpress store above
From Shenzhen silver ingot Technology Co., Ltd.? Looks like it, the island around the thermal pad just encloses it give or take. When not DTP its surface is a lot larger, to better spread heat.
—
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Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Yes, that’s the store. I thought they weren’t since I asked if the boards were dtp and they had no idea what dtp was, they said just copper.
For measuring continuity I’ve never done it before. When taking the reading it shows around 1.1-0.8 and slowly drops to zero, sometimes 0.6. Why doesn’t it show a constant reading? Probably should just watch a YouTube vid
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
Continuity is just the beep setting when you put the probes together. Doesn’t matter voltage or anything else. If it beeps between those points its dtp
Continuity is just the beep setting when you put the probes together. Doesn’t matter voltage or anything else. If it beeps between those points its dtp
Excellent, then it’s dtp. Thank you. Very helpful bit of info
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
... For measuring continuity I've never done it before. When taking the reading it shows around 1.1-0.8 and slowly drops to zero, sometimes 0.6. Why doesn't it show a constant reading? Probably should just watch a YouTube vid
Well, because the reading isn't constant. You are wiggling the multimeter probes, and namely moving the contact plugs and all of that. So, the resistance along the probes changes.
This remembered me of another time when I did research chemical drugs from time to time, and I always had a milligram precision balance at home. I found them faulty. Faulty because commercial balances tend to 0 when they are close to 0, which in my opinion is not very right. But alas! Device flaws like that are caused by a combination of product designer and customer ignorance, although maybe I am just asking too much from an inexpensive device. Should get another sometime, they're useful and now there are quite nice models.
—
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Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
… Buy only the best DTP's for your lights. Sources: …
And why are the boards from Hank, MTN or whatever the best? A higher price does not make something better. Price is a trait whose value grows in an inversely proportional way. This is not meant to say that paying more for something is necessarily bad, but it needs to have a good reason, a reason of service to one and all.
I am pretty sure that any properly designed and decent quality DTP board will perform within error marging of the above. Kaidomain sells great boards (3030 and 4040 MCPCBs available), for example. And if you don't need a rare size or something fancy, there are even cheaper options and many of these could serve you (some board models are not DTP or lack thermoelectric separation -as they call it-, but it can be easily discerned if you know what to look for -and they are cheap anyway-).
So what is the best whatever? One whose value and quality to cost ratio excels. Any money you save can then be used to help you, those around you, and etc.
Sun, 08/09/2020 - 11:56
—
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Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Well you can buy well known, established and working product, and you can buy opposite. You can buy Mercedes and you can buy Yugo and sure they will both drive you to destination.
KD boards seems like a copy of noctigon V1 boards and that is good cause they should work… But question for you. Why buy from kaidomain copy of noctigon board while I can buy same original noctigon board from IO store for less money than KD boards (when I take larger quantities)?
In my experience, the performance difference between the various available boards, as long as the thermal pad is DTP, is not measurable. There are some quality differences in how brittle the solder mask is and how well the traces are attached to the boards, but I found that only relevant when a board is used several times or is severely abused by overheating. Also sometimes the underside is not flat enough to my taste or it has a sharp edge that sticks out, but I always sand it anyway on a flat surface so that is a minimal issue.
Is there any tests to show how well the Osram green 2mm2 performs? I purchased 2pcs but unsure how hard I can push them.
No, but it is likely the same led underneath the phosfor as the white 2mm2 version, so I bet you can use that test for current/voltage/output behaviour.
Is there any tests to show how well the Osram green 2mm2 performs? I purchased 2pcs but unsure how hard I can push them.
No, but it is likely the same led underneath the phosfor as the white 2mm2 version, so I bet you can use that test for current/voltage/output behaviour.
djozz, you tested the Ostar Projection PC-green 1mm² and got more than you bargained for:
The CSLNM1.TG curve isn't updated with the newer curves peaking at ≈5.7A, though.
—
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Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Appreciate the help.
I thought I did follow the diagram with the indent but must have rotated it last minute
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)
Cree also uses an indent in the thermal pad often, facing to the anode.
In the case of these Osram emitters, their thermal pad indent faces to the cathode.
This is the reason of your problem, I'd say. I've reflown many types and brands of emitters, and this is what happens with presumptions.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Lol you are absolutely correct!
“Something, something bigger number better” was basically my thought process
I hope, if he is going to stock the CULPM1.TG (“Boost HX”), that he will also start stocking 4040-footprint centering rings. Would be awesome for my Luxeon V emitters…
Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category
ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100
1mm2 underwater test
Compared with XM-L2 and later with XHP35HI (70mm reflector)
That is something new
I am not diving and I think you are very brave. Hope that some manufacturers will have zoom underwater light cause it would be far better than reflector based lights for diving. On video when you have to inspect something up close on 1-2meters from your diving mask beam of reflector light is just to intense. Wide flood mode of zoomie light would be perfect for such situations…
Zooming in a waterproof dive light would be… difficult at best.
Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category
ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100
Having a removable diffuser cap tethered to the light is a far simpler solution:
Anyone know how hard the green boost version can be pushed? I can’t find a thread on it
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)
Is this dtp or not? This is what’s sent from the AliExpress store above
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)
Most likely if you see those distinct traces for pos and neg on top and its copper.
To verify take multimeter and check continuity between middle thermal pad and bottom of PCB
From Shenzhen silver ingot Technology Co., Ltd.? Looks like it, the island around the thermal pad just encloses it give or take. When not DTP its surface is a lot larger, to better spread heat.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Yes, that’s the store. I thought they weren’t since I asked if the boards were dtp and they had no idea what dtp was, they said just copper.
For measuring continuity I’ve never done it before. When taking the reading it shows around 1.1-0.8 and slowly drops to zero, sometimes 0.6. Why doesn’t it show a constant reading? Probably should just watch a YouTube vid
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)
Continuity is just the beep setting when you put the probes together. Doesn’t matter voltage or anything else. If it beeps between those points its dtp
Excellent, then it’s dtp. Thank you. Very helpful bit of info
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)
Well, because the reading isn't constant. You are wiggling the multimeter probes, and namely moving the contact plugs and all of that. So, the resistance along the probes changes.
This remembered me of another time when I did research chemical drugs from time to time, and I always had a milligram precision balance at home. I found them faulty. Faulty because commercial balances tend to 0 when they are close to 0, which in my opinion is not very right. But alas! Device flaws like that are caused by a combination of product designer and customer ignorance, although maybe I am just asking too much from an inexpensive device. Should get another sometime, they're useful and now there are quite nice models.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Buy only the best DTP’s for your lights. Sources: IO store , greatest choice of them has the MTN , & LED4POWER when he opens a store again.
Thank you, but think I’ll stick to Convoy from now on. I didn’t realize Simon had most variants when I grabbed these, they came with the red version.
I did plan on buying from L4P but now that Convoy is stocking them I’ll probably leave it. I could end up grabbing his CC driver though
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)
Until 4040 pads comes out, can we use a 5050 instead?
₪₪₪₪ ΟΥΔΕΝ ΚΡΥΠΤΟΝ ΥΠΟ ΤΟΝ ΗΛΙΟ ₪₪₪₪
My YouTube channel
Flashlights & edc gear
K40M F16
Convoy has ordered the 2mm² boost so I’m assuming he’ll sort that
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)
And why are the boards from Hank, MTN or whatever the best? A higher price does not make something better. Price is a trait whose value grows in an inversely proportional way. This is not meant to say that paying more for something is necessarily bad, but it needs to have a good reason, a reason of service to one and all.
I am pretty sure that any properly designed and decent quality DTP board will perform within error marging of the above. Kaidomain sells great boards (3030 and 4040 MCPCBs available), for example. And if you don't need a rare size or something fancy, there are even cheaper options and many of these could serve you (some board models are not DTP or lack thermoelectric separation -as they call it-, but it can be easily discerned if you know what to look for -and they are cheap anyway-).
So what is the best whatever? One whose value and quality to cost ratio excels. Any money you save can then be used to help you, those around you, and etc.
Sun, 08/09/2020 - 11:56
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Well you can buy well known, established and working product, and you can buy opposite. You can buy Mercedes and you can buy Yugo and sure they will both drive you to destination.
KD boards seems like a copy of noctigon V1 boards and that is good cause they should work… But question for you. Why buy from kaidomain copy of noctigon board while I can buy same original noctigon board from IO store for less money than KD boards (when I take larger quantities)?
In my experience, the performance difference between the various available boards, as long as the thermal pad is DTP, is not measurable. There are some quality differences in how brittle the solder mask is and how well the traces are attached to the boards, but I found that only relevant when a board is used several times or is severely abused by overheating. Also sometimes the underside is not flat enough to my taste or it has a sharp edge that sticks out, but I always sand it anyway on a flat surface so that is a minimal issue.
link to djozz tests
Than things are easy… It all depends weather you like black, red or white color DTP boards
Simon will be stocking 4040 boards and centering rings!
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)
Is there any tests to show how well the Osram green 2mm2 performs? I purchased 2pcs but unsure how hard I can push them.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)
Awesome!
is there any side by side review for the W1 and W1.1 ?
Will there be any gain in swapping the LED’s or do you need to drive it harder?
WTB: Jetbeam TCR-1 or Sunwayman V10R Ti
No, but it is likely the same led underneath the phosfor as the white 2mm2 version, so I bet you can use that test for current/voltage/output behaviour.
link to djozz tests
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66611
Based on this I would expect probably ~10A for a Green 2mm. Probably an amp or two more for a 4040 footprint.
djozz, you tested the Ostar Projection PC-green 1mm² and got more than you bargained for:
The CSLNM1.TG curve isn't updated with the newer curves peaking at ≈5.7A, though.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
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