FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

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JasonWW
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Garik F wrote:
I got a question about blip at 1×7135 – if I’m ramping from floor and I want to stay on exactly on 1×7135 level – should I stop ramping right at the blip? Or I should go higher, and then ramp back down and stop at the blip?

Anything below the blip is the 1 × 7135 channel. If you ramp up you may go too high, so it’s better to ramp down.

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Garik F
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Oh thank you, so when the blip happens when ramping up – it’s already higher the 1 × 7135, that’s what I wanted to know

phild
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So I bought 4 FW3 the other day. 2 x grey (different emitters), 1x stainless and one brown/tan (Oh and a HW3a)

 

The FW3a’s (XML hi) does the following:

 

Always comes on at the bottom of the range. If I then ramp up and switch off, then switch on again it hasn’t remembered where I was and is always back at the bottom every time. This is straight out the box. I’ve not played with any modes. This is with a short single click. I’m not holding. The other FW3s behave as expected and come back on where they were switched off.

 

The HW3 (thought I’d mention it here as same UI) also does some funny stuff.

 

If I switch it on. Then press and hold it ramps up and down just fine. If I press and hold from off then it starts to ramp but with a lot of flicker. Almost like a strobe. And if I don’t ramp far when I let go it goes off. If I ramp quite high then when I let go it drop low and then ramps all the way to the top from low on its own. The other thing is. If I ramp to somewhere. When I switch off then back on (single click) it always starts at a mid point brightness. Any ideas on where to start? I’ve tried different tails on the FW3 so I guess that rules out the switch. I’ve emailed Neal and waiting on a reply. Absolutely love the UI. These are mainly replacements for a gen2 H600 zebralight and an olight. Thanks!

Serlite
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In terms of the light not remembering the level you stopped at, it sounds like manual memory is on.

To turn on automatic memory (where it will turn on at the level it was turned off in), click 5 times and hold the button on the last click.
More details can be found under the Ramping/Stepped Ramping Modes section in the Anduril guide.

No idea what’s up with the flickering, though. If you’re talking about the HL3A headlamp, it could be a driver or a switch issue, but I don’t know how you’d narrow it down.
(I’d probably send it back for exchange, unless you’re pretty confident you could replace the driver yourself if you were sent a replacement.)

lumenzilla
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Here’s a little thing I learned last night:

Problem:
Flashlight not working properly.
It always turned on from low to high every time a battery is inserted and cap is tighten. Driver not responding to switch operation.

Finding:
If the retainer ring was too tight, it will scratch the coating layer on board (either driver or switch board) and expose the metal/circuit path. Then, the inner tube might touch this exposed part and contact to signal pad is occurred.

Solution:
I had an idea to cover this scratched board with either paint, tape, or nail polish. But I end up scratching the outer part of the board with cutter to remove the circuit layer outside the signal pad.

It’s working now.

phild
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Thanks Serlite. You’re 100% correct. That sorted the FW3 out. Much appreciated.

Now I just need to get the HW3 sorted and I’m up and running. That’s a strange one though with the behaviour being different In ramping properly when on. Yet not ramping properly from off with press and hold.

Serlite wrote:
In terms of the light not remembering the level you stopped at, it sounds like manual memory is on.

To turn on automatic memory (where it will turn on at the level it was turned off in), click 5 times and hold the button on the last click.
More details can be found under the Ramping/Stepped Ramping Modes section in the Anduril guide.

No idea what’s up with the flickering, though. If you’re talking about the HL3A headlamp, it could be a driver or a switch issue, but I don’t know how you’d narrow it down.
(I’d probably send it back for exchange, unless you’re pretty confident you could replace the driver yourself if you were sent a replacement.)

amtaham
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Was it a defect from factory? Did you manage to light up your light after finding the solution?

lumenzilla wrote:
Here’s a little thing I learned last night:

Problem:
Flashlight not working properly.
It always turned on from low to high every time a battery is inserted and cap is tighten. Driver not responding to switch operation.

Finding:
If the retainer ring was too tight, it will scratch the coating layer on board (either driver or switch board) and expose the metal/circuit path. Then, the inner tube might touch this exposed part and contact to signal pad is occurred.

Solution:
I had an idea to cover this scratched board with either paint, tape, or nail polish. But I end up scratching the outer part of the board with cutter to remove the circuit layer outside the signal pad.

“Come again, please, come again, Whoever you are. Religious, infidel, heretic or pagan. Even if you promised a hundred times, And, a hundred times you broke your promise, This door is not the door of hopelessness and frustration. This door is open for everybody. Come, come as you are.” ~ Mawlana Jalaludin Rumi

lumenzilla
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amtaham wrote:
Was it a defect from factory? Did you manage to light up your light after finding the solution?

It was working fine, Sir.
The problem occurred after I opened the switch board and put it back several times for various purposes.

Yes it’s now operating normal again.

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Noticed something similar.

With my FW3A with tailcap retaining rings I noticed that if the retaining ring was full snugged down the switch operation was spotty. I think this was because the ring was forcing the switch board into a position that isn’t quite flush with the inner tube, resulting in an insufficient contact between the edge of the inner tube and the trace for it on the bottom of the switch board. As a result, my second generation FW3As with retaining rings were actually less reliable than my first generation ones without.

Fortunately, this is very easy to fix. The main thing to keep in mind is that the switch retaining ring is just there to keep the guts from falling out if you take off the tailcap. It should NOT be snugged down tightly. loosely screwed in works better as that allows the switch board to float into the correct position.

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speaking of retaining rings, I was hoping to reflash my FW3A with Anduril 2 and can’t get the retaining ring out. This isn’t glued is it? wouldn’t make sense to do both, but so far its not budging.

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Have you tried 6 clicks from off to make sure you are not in muggle mode?

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shirnask wrote:
Have you tried 6 clicks from off to make sure you are not in muggle mode?

Thank you, is not muggle mode problem, but i have resolved

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JaredM wrote:
Danthemanz wrote:
I’m hoping someone can shed some light on my driver issues.
I own about 10 x FWxA lights, all various custom leds.
I’ve ended up with 2 with the same driver/grounding issue.
1 came like this from banggood, I got a refund. The other was OK until I swapped the led board one day and it was broken since. I’ve since removed the driver, run new emitter wires, tried two different sets of mcpcb and leds, and checked the driver ring 100 times.

Basically, the lights are always on. It’s not a switch issue, even without a driver/switch ring installed, the second the battery touches the spring when screwing it in, the leds light up, somewhere above moon.when the switch connected, I can still turn it on, ramp and turbo, but once it’s off there is still power running to the leds.

The one that started doing it by itself I have tried everything within in knowledge/skill base.

Anyone seen this issue before? Only time I’ve had it was a badly sanded e21a board where the mcpcb was grounding in the light. This isn’t the case.

Are the drivers just screwed? I wouldn’t know where to start if I needed resolder components on the driver board.
Anything I should be looking out for?

I plan on buying a number of the buck/boost drivers that Neal apparently will be making in coming months, so eventually I hope to have spare drivers. That said, I’ve got new leds in the way I want to Install, as well as I want to try and fix them to improve my skills – not much to lose.

Thanks in advance!

I’ve got one fw3a that now displays this same issue. Happened after I shorted the +wire to the shelf like an idiot. I think my best guess was the mcu was the culprit. Never dug into it though as I’m also looking forward to the Lume1 driver

I think I found the issue. Seems the FET has been wrecked. I measure 1.7kOhms Source to Drain. Should be in the MegaOhm range I reckon.. Swapping the FET out now and will report back.

EDIT: Well.. I was wrong. Go figure!! lol Removed the FET and it still had the leakage current. Then got super lucky and the first 7135 (U3) I removed was the culprit. Replaced that bugger and now we are back to like new!! Crown

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Hi, i am in trouble with reset.
Any help?
I try 4 times to rotate the head after click and press switch with battery inserted.
The light ramp low to high but it do not switch off.
Any help?

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Light Veteran wrote:
Hi, i am in trouble with reset. Any help? I try 4 times to rotate the head after click and press switch with battery inserted. The light ramp low to high but it do not switch off. Any help?

Have you cleaned the threads and all contact points of head and body?

Loosen the head and make sure the tail is very tight then reattach the head.

JasonWW
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Light Veteran wrote:
Hi, i am in trouble with reset.
Any help?
I try 4 times to rotate the head after click and press switch with battery inserted.
The light ramp low to high but it do not switch off.
Any help?

What does it do when you try to switch it off? Does the led glow very faint or does it stay at it’s set brightness?
If it ramps, that means the switch is working.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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JasonWW wrote:
Light Veteran wrote:
Hi, i am in trouble with reset. Any help? I try 4 times to rotate the head after click and press switch with battery inserted. The light ramp low to high but it do not switch off. Any help?

What does it do when you try to switch it off? Does the led glow very faint or does it stay at it’s set brightness?

I don’t know if i understand correctly but when i choose the ramp mode after the reset i have always my 4 preset levels.. not 7

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JasonWW
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Light Veteran wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Light Veteran wrote:
Hi, i am in trouble with reset. Any help? I try 4 times to rotate the head after click and press switch with battery inserted. The light ramp low to high but it do not switch off. Any help?

What does it do when you try to switch it off? Does the led glow very faint or does it stay at it’s set brightness?

I don’t know if i understand correctly but when i choose the ramp mode after the reset i have always my 4 preset levels.. not 7


Is your light a newer one that has the reset function?

You do not rotate the head to reset it. From the off position you click the switch quickly 13 times and hold it down on the last one.

I may not be understanding you.

Are you trying to switch from stepped ramping to the smooth ramping?

Or are you trying to change from 4 brightness levels to 7 brightness levels?

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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I Buy FW3A 31 Ago 2019
If I try to click 13 times nothing happen
For reset I have to unscrew the tail and press button before screwback.
I don’t want to unscrew tail so I do the reset with the head
To make sure the reset has been done I try Ramp mode but there are 4 levels and not 7..so nothing as been reset

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Light Veteran wrote:
I Buy FW3A 31 Ago 2019
If I try to click 13 times nothing happen
For reset I have to unscrew the tail and press button before screwback.
I don’t want to unscrew tail so I do the reset with the head
To make sure the reset has been done I try Ramp mode but there are 4 levels and not 7..so nothing as been reset

There’s no reset for your light.
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SammysHP wrote:
Light Veteran wrote:
I Buy FW3A 31 Ago 2019 If I try to click 13 times nothing happen For reset I have to unscrew the tail and press button before screwback. I don’t want to unscrew tail so I do the reset with the head To make sure the reset has been done I try Ramp mode but there are 4 levels and not 7..so nothing as been reset
There’s no reset for your light.

I do the reset one time only few month ago.. are you sure?

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Power is connected before the signal tube for the switch, so holding the switch doesn’t work. You have to do 13H. If it doesn’t work, the light does not have factory reset. Lumintop was very late with using a newer firmware.

JasonWW
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From off, try 13 fast clicks and hold the last one. The led should do something.

Or try 13 fast clicks and hold on the 12th or 14th one.

I don’t have the later model, so I’m not sure.

From Toykeeper:
From a regular “off” state, click 13 times and hold the last click for a few seconds. Then keep holding the button for 3 seconds.  The light should flash an increasingly bright warning, during which time the user can let go to abort without any changes.  Then after 3 seconds, it gives a bright flash and fades back to nothing.  This indicates the reset has completed.

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JasonWW
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Instead of doing a reset, you can change the number of steps.

Make sure you are in stepped ramping mode, not smooth.

Turn light On.
Do 4 fast clicks

Let the light do the first flutter, then let it do the second flutter.
When it is doing the third flutter, click 7 times. Then let it finish.

Now you should have 7 steps.

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JasonWW wrote:
Instead of doing a reset, you can change the number of steps.

Make sure you are in stepped ramping mode, not smooth.

Turn light On.
Do 4 fast clicks

Let the light do the first flutter, then let it do the second flutter.
When it is doing the third flutter, click 7 times. Then let it finish.

Now you should have 7 steps.

I know I know, thank you Thumbs Up

I would like to do a reset is for the temperature sensor

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SammysHP wrote:
Power is connected before the signal tube for the switch, so holding the switch doesn’t work. You have to do 13H. If it doesn’t work, the light does not have factory reset. Lumintop was very late with using a newer firmware.

I don’t remember where, but I read in forum that I have to press the switch for 3 seconds after screw tailcup.
There is a mode for understand if my fw3a is compatible with reset or not?

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JasonWW
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Light Veteran wrote:

I would like to do a reset is for the temperature sensor

The FW3A was NEVER meant to be reset by disconnecting power. It HAS to be done through the 13H clicks (assuming it has the reset software option).

I have a video on how to reset the thermals.

https://youtu.be/1U9lck1×2_U

Make sure the light is internally at room temp.

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JasonWW wrote:
Light Veteran wrote:

I would like to do a reset is for the temperature sensor

The FW3A was NEVER meant to be reset by disconnecting power. It HAS to be done through the 13H clicks (assuming it has the reset software option).

I have a video on how to reset the thermals.

https://youtu.be/1U9lck1×2_U

Make sure the light is internally at room temp.

Video is not available

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JasonWW
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Martin has one also.

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