*BLF LT1 Lantern Project* (GB list for 3000 is filled)

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Stereodude
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Does muggle mode have reduced output in the LT1? Need to know for editing the manual.

spinynorman
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As important as instruction manual is, I always find the “How To” videos that some members produce to be enormously useful. Thank you to those of you who take the time to make them.

DBSAR
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Stereodude wrote:
Does muggle mode have reduced output in the LT1? Need to know for editing the manual.

It does lower the maximum output.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

Stereodude
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DBSAR wrote:
It does lower the maximum output.

To what level and why? You said the lantern only got to like mid 40’s C on high with five 7135 chips.
sbslider
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As to why, It’s one of several features of the firmware developed for higher power lights. It’s just part of the package, folks don’t necessarily need to use it. There are lots of those features, like party and tactical strobe, that don’t really apply to the lantern. But they are there.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

amishbill
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I think I have the most important UI elements collected and organized into an on-battery cheatsheet. I’d appreciate a different set of eyes to check it out.

Is there anything important that I missed or anything I got wrong?

DIY LT1 battery wrap image. "PDF on Google Drive":https://drive.google.com/open?id=1IHIEOi1NXu868IYNCzIM7D2Ulpxchmww

Fresh Sanyo NCR18650GAs already wrapped "for sale HERE":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/69120 if you like.

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Probably easier to print out a cheat sheet, fold it up, and stick it in the tail cap.

Stereodude
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sbslider wrote:
As to why, It’s one of several features of the firmware developed for higher power lights. It’s just part of the package, folks don’t necessarily need to use it. There are lots of those features, like party and tactical strobe, that don’t really apply to the lantern. But they are there.

They shouldn’t be if they’re unnecessary or out of place. If the LT1 can’t overheat at full power there’s no reason to limit the output in muggle mode. The two ramping modes should allow “ramping” to max power by default as well (I realize it can be changed by the user).

To TK or someone who has a sample… How does the LT1 indicate that it is in auto tint mode? Does it?

“Tint Ramp configuration

While the lantern is on, click, click, hold to change the tint. The tint ramp goes from warm to cool with an auto tint mode at each end, which changes the tint automatically as brightness changes. To reach the auto tint mode, ramp all the way to either end, then keep holding the button. It blinks at the end of the tint ramp, but can be pushed farther to access auto.”

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Stereodude wrote:

They shouldn’t be if they’re unnecessary or out of place. If the LT1 can’t overheat at full power there’s no reason to limit the output in muggle mode. The two ramping modes should allow “ramping” to max power by default as well (I realize it can be changed by the user).


agreed, hopefully a lantern owner can chime in for the LT1. Ideally ToyKeeper. DBSAR did already say that muggle mode as presently implemented in the LT1.
DBSAR wrote:
Stereodude wrote:
Does muggle mode have reduced output in the LT1? Need to know for editing the manual.

It does lower the maximum output.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

DBSAR
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sbslider wrote:
Stereodude wrote:

They shouldn’t be if they’re unnecessary or out of place. If the LT1 can’t overheat at full power there’s no reason to limit the output in muggle mode. The two ramping modes should allow “ramping” to max power by default as well (I realize it can be changed by the user).


agreed, hopefully a lantern owner can chime in for the LT1. Ideally ToyKeeper. DBSAR did already say that muggle mode as presently implemented in the LT1.
DBSAR wrote:
Stereodude wrote:
Does muggle mode have reduced output in the LT1? Need to know for editing the manual.

It does lower the maximum output.

It is a part of the Andruil user programming. While its not really needed in factory form, but if a user wants to enable all 7 of the 7135 chips, then they can use the muggle mode for when kids are using it, (as the head can reach 70 degrees C with all 7 of the chips running, that can feel some what hot to a child’s hands. (and for those who plan to hot-rod their LT1 lantern, then that head heat can go higher.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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I agree with DBSAR’s summary on Muggle Mode. It doesn’t hurt anything as it ships, and it has purpose for those who want to ‘get a little more’ from their lanterns.

On the topic of the flashy modes – I’m of a similar opinion. While there is no “real” use case for bike flasher or storm mode like there is for Muggle, there is no reason to neuter the firmware to remove them. It could even be viewed as a potential SOS / Locator feature if someone gets lost while out camping.

Though, to be completely honest, I have a picture in my head of LT1s, FW3As, EC01s, etc spread through a dark house, all in storm mode. Put on a storm soundtrack and sit back with a whiskey & ____… Hat

Side Note — I’d swear my Astrolux EC01 lights shipped with Muggle Mode engaged. Any idea if these will be the same? That might be an important thing to mention if they do.

DIY LT1 battery wrap image. "PDF on Google Drive":https://drive.google.com/open?id=1IHIEOi1NXu868IYNCzIM7D2Ulpxchmww

Fresh Sanyo NCR18650GAs already wrapped "for sale HERE":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/69120 if you like.

DBSAR
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amishbill wrote:
I agree with DBSAR’s summary on Muggle Mode. It doesn’t hurt anything as it ships, and it has purpose for those who want to ‘get a little more’ from their lanterns.

On the topic of the flashy modes – I’m of a similar opinion. While there is no “real” use case for bike flasher or storm mode like there is for Muggle, there is no reason to neuter the firmware to remove them. It could even be viewed as a potential SOS / Locator feature if someone gets lost while out camping.

Though, to be completely honest, I have a picture in my head of LT1s, FW3As, EC01s, etc spread through a dark house, all in storm mode. Put on a storm soundtrack and sit back with a whiskey & ____… Hat

Side Note — I’d swear my Astrolux EC01 lights shipped with Muggle Mode engaged. Any idea if these will be the same? That might be an important thing to mention if they do.

The SOS & flashing hidden modes would make a better emergency beacon for marine use in the lantern than in a flashlight for certain cases, (say in a sail boat or cabin cruiser on the water, place the lantern up high and you have a 360 degree lighthouse, emergency beacon, and sending an SOS flash in all directions at the same time. if your on a mountain or anywhere in an open area, its flashes its location & light in all directions, (not in just one direction like a flashlight.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

netkai
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Great camping lantern. Count me in for 2 please! Smile

Stereodude
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How many LED of different colors are behind the switch? The manual makes mention of red and green, but Den has been talking about it being orange. Does it have 3 colors, is it using a RGB LEDs to achieve any color, or are there some mistakes in there that should be corrected?

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Stereodude wrote:
How many LED of different colors are behind the switch? The manual makes mention of red and green, but Den has been talking about it being orange. Does it have 3 colors, is it using a RGB LEDs to achieve any color, or are there some mistakes in there that should be corrected?

it has three separate LEDs , (Green for charged, red for charging, and orange as a nightlight/indicator light.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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DBSAR wrote:
it has three separate LEDs , (Green for charged, red for charging, and orange as a nightlight/indicator light.

Okay. A few more questions as we’re editing the manual.

1) What is the low battery behavior of the LT1? Does it back off the output as the batteries get low, or what? Will it turn itself off at any point from LVP?

2) How long is the full ramp from low to high brightness? Is it 3s?

3) Is there any visible indication that the tint mode has been set to auto?

4) Is this a correct description of running the LT1 while charging/on USB power? “The only other limitation is within the Blinkies group, only BattCheck mode is available…”

5) How long do you need to disconnect power by unscrewing the head from the base in order to clear the Momentary UI mode?

DBSAR
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Stereodude wrote:
DBSAR wrote:
it has three separate LEDs , (Green for charged, red for charging, and orange as a nightlight/indicator light.

Okay. A few more questions as we’re editing the manual.

1) What is the low battery behavior of the LT1? Does it back off the output as the batteries get low, or what? Will it turn itself off at any point from LVP?

2) How long is the full ramp from low to high brightness? Is it 3s?

3) Is there any visible indication that the tint mode has been set to auto?

4) Is this a correct description of running the LT1 while charging/on USB power? “The only other limitation is within the Blinkies group, only BattCheck mode is available…”

5) How long do you need to disconnect power by unscrewing the head from the base in order to clear the Momentary UI mode?

It has a step down, then turns off when with the LVP. (verify with Toykeeper though on the voltages & specifics that is set with the Andruil firmware.
it seems to be around 3 to 4 secs from ramp floor to max. The indication is a second blink when holding the button at the end of the manual tint ramp at each end of the ramp. I’m not sure what you are referring to clear the mode, but if the lantern is set for stepped or ramping, it stays in that mode even after locked out or batteries removed.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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DBSAR wrote:
I’m not sure what you are referring to clear the mode, but if the lantern is set for stepped or ramping, it stays in that mode even after locked out or batteries removed.

The manual says the LT1 has a momentary UI mode.

“UI: Momentary mode
This mode locks the LT1 into a single-mode interface where the LEDs are only on when the button is held down. It is intended for Morse code and other signaling tasks.
Brightness is the last-ramped level, so adjust that before entering momentary mode.
Momentary mode enable: 5 clicks from OFF to enter
Operation in Momentary mode is limited to holding the button to turn the LT1 on at the last brightness level before enabling Momentary mode.
Momentary mode disable: physically disconnect power”

It says to physically disconnect power to disable / clear the mode. I’m trying to figure out how long power has to be disconnected for it to clear. The light has some capacitance on the driver board and the standby current draw of the micro is pretty low. This means it could take many seconds if not minutes to discharge the caps enough to put the micro through a reset exiting the Momentary UI mode. If it’s more than a few seconds the instructions should recommend a different method (disconnect power and press the button). Since you have an LT1 I’m hoping you can shed some light on how long it takes.

DBSAR
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Stereodude wrote:
DBSAR wrote:
I’m not sure what you are referring to clear the mode, but if the lantern is set for stepped or ramping, it stays in that mode even after locked out or batteries removed.

The manual says the LT1 has a momentary UI mode.

“UI: Momentary mode
This mode locks the LT1 into a single-mode interface where the LEDs are only on when the button is held down. It is intended for Morse code and other signaling tasks.
Brightness is the last-ramped level, so adjust that before entering momentary mode.
Momentary mode enable: 5 clicks from OFF to enter
Operation in Momentary mode is limited to holding the button to turn the LT1 on at the last brightness level before enabling Momentary mode.
Momentary mode disable: physically disconnect power”

It says to physically disconnect power to disable / clear the mode. I’m trying to figure out how long power has to be disconnected for it to clear. The light has some capacitance on the driver board and the standby current draw of the micro is pretty low. This means it could take many seconds if not minutes to discharge the caps enough to put the micro through a reset exiting the Momentary UI mode. If it’s more than a few seconds the instructions should recommend a different method (disconnect power and press the button). Since you have an LT1 I’m hoping you can shed some light on how long it takes.

That mode is the next mode above electronic lock-out mode (the 4-presses from off) but uses 5-presses/clicks.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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DBSAR wrote:
Stereodude wrote:
DBSAR wrote:
I’m not sure what you are referring to clear the mode, but if the lantern is set for stepped or ramping, it stays in that mode even after locked out or batteries removed.

The manual says the LT1 has a momentary UI mode.

“UI: Momentary mode
This mode locks the LT1 into a single-mode interface where the LEDs are only on when the button is held down. It is intended for Morse code and other signaling tasks.
Brightness is the last-ramped level, so adjust that before entering momentary mode.
Momentary mode enable: 5 clicks from OFF to enter
Operation in Momentary mode is limited to holding the button to turn the LT1 on at the last brightness level before enabling Momentary mode.
Momentary mode disable: physically disconnect power”

It says to physically disconnect power to disable / clear the mode. I’m trying to figure out how long power has to be disconnected for it to clear. The light has some capacitance on the driver board and the standby current draw of the micro is pretty low. This means it could take many seconds if not minutes to discharge the caps enough to put the micro through a reset exiting the Momentary UI mode. If it’s more than a few seconds the instructions should recommend a different method (disconnect power and press the button). Since you have an LT1 I’m hoping you can shed some light on how long it takes.

That mode is the electronic lock-out mode (same as used on the FW3A) where it has a dim momentary on when button is held.

In Anduril and as per Toykeeper’s UI chart electronic lockout is 4 clicks, momentary mode is 5 clicks.
Momentary moonlight until unlocked and momentary last brightness level until power disconnected are two different things.

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Lagittaja wrote:

In Anduril and as per Toykeeper’s UI chart electronic lockout is 4 clicks, momentary mode is 5 clicks.
Momentary moonlight until unlocked and momentary last brightness level until power disconnected are two different things.

You’re correct, (i missed that second hidden mode) which is pretty much the same as in the lock-out mode only a bit brighter. (though i noticed it seems to lock on that momentary mode, and needs to have the battery tum loosened to re-set it.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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DBSAR wrote:
That mode is the next mode above electronic lock-out mode (the 4-presses from off) but uses 5-presses/clicks.

Okay, but that wasn’t the question. How do you leave that mode?
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@Stereodude, easy peasy.

Just disconnect the tube quickly, and it’ll leave momentary.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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Stereodude wrote:
DBSAR wrote:
That mode is the next mode above electronic lock-out mode (the 4-presses from off) but uses 5-presses/clicks.
Okay, but that wasn’t the question. How do you leave that mode?

The only way i know how to get out of that momentary mode is to remove the battery tube to reset it, (maybe Toykeeper can comment on the mode operation.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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To be clear, it’s a quick removal of the battery that does the trick. You can wait as long as you like, but it’s pretty instant, in my experience with a range of different anduril flashed lights

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beastlykings wrote:
To be clear, it’s a quick removal of the battery that does the trick. You can wait as long as you like, but it’s pretty instant, in my experience with a range of different anduril flashed lights

indeed, it only takes a second to reset the 5-click momentary mode. (loosen the battery tube, the lantern blinks then tighten, its reset.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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Back after several monthes away (multi factor story, not related to BLF) and  i am happy to be on time for THE lantern Smile

I have a lot to catch back and will do asap but i'd be very grateful if someone could tell me when the party will start (days, weeks or .. ?) and if there is an estimated date for the accessory pack as i did not find it neither on the first page nor in the few last ones !

Glad to see you again folks Smile

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Kame Sennin wrote:

Back after several monthes away (multi factor story, not related to BLF) and  i am happy to be on time for THE lantern Smile


I have a lot to catch back and will do asap but i’d be very grateful if someone could tell me when the party will start (days, weeks or .. ?) and if there is an estimated date for the accessory pack as i did not find it neither on the first page nor in the few last ones !


Glad to see you again folks Smile

I will have a video of the planned accessory pack soon, as for the LT1 lantern it should be going into production now and getting prepared fro the first order lot.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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beastlykings wrote:
To be clear, it’s a quick removal of the battery that does the trick. You can wait as long as you like, but it’s pretty instant, in my experience with a range of different anduril flashed lights

Finally, we have comments on the amount of time needed for the voltage on the input of the micro to drop enough to cause it to go through a reset and clear the mode.

That wasn’t so hard was it? Silly

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DBSAR wrote:
FlashPilot wrote:

Very cool to find another lantern collector here! We are all lumen junkies, so anything that produces light is fair game. I prefer the early lanterns with the white porcelain treatment under the shade. The white color really does reflect more light and the differences are visually apparent. Its also fun experimenting with different thorium treated mantles and fuel mixtures, especially with the kerosene varieties. I have around 200 lanterns and still growing.

Im looking forward to your LT1 accessory kit. The plastic bowl you demo’d will be replicated if all else fails. lol

A little something to heat my house. Dont worry, my insurance company says my house is insured if one blows up!

I seen that video somewhere!

My current collection of gas & oil lanterns is much bigger now, but here is an old photo from a number of years ago:

!{height:800px; width:618px}https://i.imgur.com/OOl1Kvu.jpg!

Another 40 or 50 of those, and the collection might begin to border on the excessive… Sick

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