【convoy】M21C-U available now

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caramba
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Simon Mao wrote:
no ,not suitable , But I have a program similar to crescendo, and the manufacturer is writing the code for me.

That’s great news. Such program for S21A S12 C8+, and S2+, L21A, M21A will be enormous value.

Simon Mao
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Chatika vas Paus wrote:
Increase to 20. It’s a safe minimum. In normal use, mode groups doesn’t change all the time anyway.

I personally feel that 20 times is too much, Hat

Chatika vas Paus
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I’m not only one that think 20 is ok. It’s a safe solution, and entering the settings, even for someone unfamiliar with flashlights, takes 3 seconds, maybe less.

There are 8 modes in the first group. It is enough to do two cycles to enter the settings. For example, when you start from the first mode and want to check the battery level and accidentally jump back to the first mode because you did it too quickly. And again you make 7 clicks, but then instead of checking the battery status you enter the settings.

This is an extreme example, but it shows what’s going on.

And as I mentioned before. In normal use, you don’t change the group every hour to make it annoying.

Ryzbor
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Simon Mao wrote:
Chatika vas Paus wrote:
Increase to 20. It’s a safe minimum. In normal use, mode groups doesn’t change all the time anyway.

I personally feel that 20 times is too much, Hat

It’s not.

Change mode groups is not something one does daily.

Acessing the programing mode while being used by a person who doesn’t know there is such a thing can be dangerous.

virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 (for sale)

 

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And this is why I like drivers that have hardware so you can edit firmware. On the attiny13 drivers I could rewrite my own firmware to change that….

I do like constant current and far less heat, though.

Barkuti
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Simon Mao wrote:

In order to avoid difficulty in entering the mode selection, the response time for 10 clicks of the button is not very short. The user is constantly clicking the button, and originally just want to switch the mode, it may accidentally enter the mode selection.

Here is the problem: the response time or click/tap delay time for config mode is too long. This is obvious. I can tap a flashlight button 4 times per second without difficulty, and I am pretty sure any minimally trained or blessed human being can do it a minimum of 3 times per second.

As a first solution, click/tap delay time for config mode should not be set any slower than for any other click/tap sequence. This alone can be enough to fix the whole problem. However, if an increase in the lenght of the sequence of clicks/taps is considered, why does the number of clicks or taps needs to be a rounded figure or sort of? It doesn't needs to. Just increase it slightly. Set it at 12, 13, 16, whatever! This is no ramdom stuff! All is precisely pre-defined and once the user knows how to and is dexterous carrying out a procedure, he will just do it. 

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Simon Mao wrote:
2020/7/11
osram KW CSLNM1.1TG bin 6N-ebxD46-15 (6000-6500K)
3030 DTP copper board
samsung LH351D 90CRI SPHWHTL3DA0TV4QTS6 bin V2Q2S1 5700K
samsung LH351D 90CRI SPHWHTL3DA0GF4RTS6 bin F2R2S2 5000K
LD351D 90CRI 4000K will be available after half month

i will add these in my store at next week

Do you know about when LH351D 4000K will be available?

sochi111
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Ryzbor wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
Chatika vas Paus wrote:
Increase to 20. It’s a safe minimum. In normal use, mode groups doesn’t change all the time anyway.

I personally feel that 20 times is too much, Hat

It’s not.

Change mode groups is not something one does daily.

Acessing the programing mode while being used by a person who doesn’t know there is such a thing can be dangerous.

I agree, I feel like the config mode should be simple enough for anyone to use. Whether they have fast fingers of a piano player or their fingers are slow and half frozen. Not everyone can click with a rythm and timing.

Is the config menu absolutely necessary?

Maybe we could make a lot of people happy with a simple step ramping or smooth ramping.

1 Click to Turn flashlight off, Click to turn on
2 To turn ‘memory on’ , just simple full click+hold. Ramp up and down to a level you want.Then let go to memorize the level.

3 To turn memory off using tailcap just Click and Hold +Unscrew and screw back tail cap while holding the switch.

Would this solve any issues people accidentally getting into config ?

BurningPlayd0h
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sochi111 wrote:
Ryzbor wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
Chatika vas Paus wrote:
Increase to 20. It’s a safe minimum. In normal use, mode groups doesn’t change all the time anyway.

I personally feel that 20 times is too much, Hat

It’s not.

Change mode groups is not something one does daily.

Acessing the programing mode while being used by a person who doesn’t know there is such a thing can be dangerous.

I agree, I feel like the config mode should be simple enough for anyone to use. Whether they have fast fingers of a piano player or their fingers are slow and half frozen. Not everyone can click with a rythm and timing.

Is the config menu absolutely necessary?

Maybe we could make a lot of people happy with a simple step ramping or smooth ramping.

1 Click to Turn flashlight off, Click to turn on
2 To turn ‘memory on’ , just simple full click+hold. Ramp up and down to a level you want.Then let go to memorize the level.

3 To turn memory off using tailcap just Click and Hold +Unscrew and screw back tail cap while holding the switch.

Would this solve any issues people accidentally getting into config ?

It’s a mechanical switch, a UI like that is not possible. Any “hold” action will turn the light off during it’s duration.

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@Chatika vas Paus

@Ryzbor

@Barkuti

@sochi111

Thank you for your suggestions, I will ask the driver manufacturer to increase the number to 20.

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Tartarus wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
2020/7/11
osram KW CSLNM1.1TG bin 6N-ebxD46-15 (6000-6500K)
3030 DTP copper board
samsung LH351D 90CRI SPHWHTL3DA0TV4QTS6 bin V2Q2S1 5700K
samsung LH351D 90CRI SPHWHTL3DA0GF4RTS6 bin F2R2S2 5000K
LD351D 90CRI 4000K will be available after half month

i will add these in my store at next week

Do you know about when LH351D 4000K will be available?

I’m not sure yet, I will check the date later.

Simon Mao
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@Tartarus

LH351D 4000K will be available in this month

Simon Mao
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got some osram red LED and PM1

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Ooooh! Osram red, WF2, sbt90.2!

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Convoy is getting on top of the gamecool

Awesome!

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

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The CSLNM1.TG is rated for max 3000mA and djozz found that 6000mA is actually in the decreasing region, unlike the CSLPM1.TG, so I think the S21A with KW CSLNM1.TG and 6000mA max current doesn’t make too much sense unless there is a typo (maybe with 5000mA it would be ok).

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I run an nm1 in a C8 with the 5A driver, and it’s good. (Although I think I only get ~4.5 at tailcap…)

I don’t think I’d take it past 5, myself.

thefreeman
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Simon Mao wrote:
still valid , pls ask me to adjust the amount before the payment
Barkuti wrote:


I am perfectly aware. I contacted customer support and was told to use the Android application, you will be given the Other Payment Methods option (but add to the cart first, or else it won’t work). However, this is only a workaround, so make yourselves heard:


 

It seems the Other Payment Methods option has been removed from the mobile app. I have no idea how to place an order without paying to ask for the BLF discount or shipping fee grouping.

Barkuti
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The CSLPM1.TG is a good choice for builds using the ∅20/∅22mm SST40 6A rated linear drivers. These deliver close to 6A, which is a good level of overdrive for a CSLPM1.TG without being overdone.

I made a couple builds with CSLNM1.TGs, overdriven near 5A (≈4.7) both. I am now to do a CSLPM1.TG one, and something's telling me what's the point. I am thinking in setting the driver at 7.2A theoretical, which would be ≈6.75A effective, but still… what's the point if the actual output difference is so small (in my case I have to anyway, it is one of these). 

The Light Innocent I am

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EasyB
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Barkuti wrote:

The CSLPM1.TG is a good choice for builds using the ∅20/∅22mm SST40 6A rated linear drivers. These deliver close to 6A, which is a good level of overdrive for a CSLPM1.TG without being overdone.


I made a couple builds with CSLNM1.TGs, overdriven near 5A (≈4.7) both. I am now to do a CSLPM1.TG one, and something’s telling me what’s the point. I am thinking in setting the driver at 7.2A theoretical, which would be ≈6.75A effective, but still… what’s the point if the actual output difference is so small (in my case I have to anyway, it is one of these). 

I think it’s worth doing. With your proposed currents, according to djozz measurements you’ll get ~56% more output with the PM1 and get 78% of the luminance of the NM1. It’s always a compromise between output and throw when you change emitter size, but IMO the PM1 is a good compromise.

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I’m seriously impressed that Convoy is planning to try the SBT90.2. It’s a VERY EXPENSIVE emitter and Convoy lights are known to be real budget lights.

Simon, if you are planning to explore high end emitters, I recommend the Oslon CULNM1.TG Boost HL, which is the higher power version of the CSLNM1.TG or the CULPM1.TG Boost HX, which is the higher power version of the CSLPM1.TG.

Right now only Manker is using the CULNM1.TG because they were nearly unobtainable previously. Skylumen also mods lights using the CULPM1.TG. Would be sweet if Convoy can source these rare emitters.

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Simon Mao wrote:

4×18A + SBT90.2… Please.

I’d like to know the price.

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Unloco wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:

4×18A + SBT90.2… Please.

I’d like to know the price.

As mentioned only 5 times earlier, i do as well!

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Think same. Which host specifically suited best for sbt90.2?

Yokiamy wrote:
Unloco wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:


4×18A + SBT90.2… Please.

I’d like to know the price.

As mentioned only 5 times earlier, i do as well!

In search of the most ideal flashlight in town:
1. BRIGHTNESS
2. Durabillity
3. Design
4. Quality
5. Price$$$

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hasddie293 wrote:
Think same. Which host specifically suited best for sbt90.2?

Read carefull...4x18

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

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id30209 wrote:

hasddie293 wrote:
Think same. Which host specifically suited best for sbt90.2?

Read carefull…4×18

The Quad 18650 host, all batts in parallel, perfect fit for a current hog like the SBT90.2!
Optional FET driver that we could replace would be great Wink

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Didn't Dale (DBCustom) build a beast ("Ham'r") with multiple FETs in joint circuitry for way more than 20,000lm using a whole bunch of LH351Ds below some carclos?

Anyway, 4x18A....geeez....that's 72A which equals in way over 250W! What host is able to sustain and dissipate so much heat? Please don't come with some active cooling by ventilation. Rotating, moving parts in a flashlight... Facepalm It will probably take 4x Samsung 30T or 4x Molicel P42A in 4P configuration to get this amount of power without collapsing springs or batteries going nuclear. Big Smile

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Quote:
Anyway, 4×18A….geeez….that’s 72A which equals in way over 250W! What host is able to sustain and dissipate so much heat?

My sarcasm/joking detector is not working today, so I can’t tell if you are joking or not:
Convoy 4×18A flashlight
Convoy 4×18A Flashlight Review

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ggf31416 wrote:
Quote:
Anyway, 4x18A....geeez....that's 72A which equals in way over 250W! What host is able to sustain and dissipate so much heat?
My sarcasm detector is not working today, so I can't tell if you are joking or not: "Convoy 4X18A flashlight":(links removed)

I did not mean to joke at all. The light you have linked to is for sure not consuming 4x 18A. It's just a light named "4x18A" but it's one and only XHP70.2 cannot drain more than approx. 18-22A from all 4 batteries. Anything beyond would burn this LED.

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It’s an interestingly titled host, that’s for sure. But put it in 4P and the SBT90 would do quite nicely.

Edit:: it’s already in 4P sigh. Or even the M21C-U – cap it at 20-25A and away you go.

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