I put a 219c into a 1504 with a 16×7135 Q.lite and it pulls 6A with ease from an Efest Purple 3500mAh 26650.

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:

I put a 219c into a 1504 with a 16x7135 Q.lite and it pulls 6A with ease from an Efest Purple 3500mAh 26650.

Excellent work, btw! From the beamshot earlier you posted, looks like the 219C doesn't tint shift much when de-domed.

 Is this the same one you reported earlier with the SS collar? It sounds like it would do the same on a KK cell. I can fit the KK 26700 cells in my 1405's - the 26700's have high capacity and pretty good low resistance.

 What's the SS collar? I recall discussions - can't recall if it helped much. I tested one hand made by O-L way back but didn't get any noticeable improvements.

Yes, same light from the earlier results I posted. The SS collar adds about 20% to the output from most of my testing.

djozz wrote:

ToyKeeper wrote:

Does a FET+1 and NCR18650A sound like a safe combination?

Just did a very quick and dirty check with a 219C, FET driver and a NCR18650B at 4.12V: 5.45A

Should end up at around 1240 emitter lumens, according to the chart. Close to the maximum but, more importantly, on the left side of the output curve. So I think the main remaining issue then would be heat, with is a bit easier to deal with. I may even use this as a testbed for thermal step-down features on an attiny25. In such a small driver cavity, the MCU should have a relatively easy time sensing the pill temperature, especially if I cram in a thin piece of thermal-conducting foam.

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:

I put a 219c into a 1504 with a 16×7135 Q.lite and it pulls 6A with ease from an Efest Purple 3500mAh 26650.

I reflowed 3 of these on a (slightly well used) triple board.
I will see this evening how much they draw from a FET driver and a 25R
Ok, I measured the triple at 12,8A with a fully charged 25R and at 10,8A with a fully charged 18500 IMR Efest.

Finges, I’ll place my chips on the “north of 15A” slot on the wheel. Should be impressive, wherever it falls…

finges wrote:

I reflowed 3 of these on a (slightly well used) triple board.
I will see this evening how much they draw from a FET driver and a 25R

Hi,

same plan here, so i am really interested in your result Just have to wait for the MCPCB …

Greetings

Kenjii

djozz wrote:

Nichia did an evil thing: stacking is back from the grave

Maybe the LD-2 with the correct value of flea sized resister installed is the best option?

djozz wrote:

Nichia did an evil thing: stacking is back from the grave

I think you mean slave boards are back from the grave

pilotdog68 wrote:

djozz wrote:

Nichia did an evil thing: stacking is back from the grave

I think you mean slave boards are back from the grave

That’ll work with some lights, but I’m not sure something like the 1504 has enough depth in the driver cavity to easily add a slave board.

Ok, I measured the triple at 12,8A with a fully charged 25R and at 10,8A with a fully charged 18500 IMR Efest.

Very cool,

I’d expect an Efest Purple or LG HE-4, Samsung 30Q, to do higher than 12.8A. Hence my 15A wager…

Still, very impressive lot of output in a High CRI rendition, no doubt! :bigsmile:

Edit: Assuming you did spring bypasses, right? Through board on the switch? What size wires did you use? I’ve taken to using 18ga for these projects to allow every possible bit of current to flow. 16 ga if I can fit it in.

DB Custom wrote:

Edit: Assuming you did spring bypasses, right? Through board on the switch? What size wires did you use? I’ve taken to using 18ga for these projects to allow every possible bit of current to flow. 16 ga if I can fit it in.

I used the standard 22 AWG silicon wire from here http://intl-outdoor.com/22-awg-highly-flexible-silicone-copper-wire-p-68...
I don’t have anything thicker atm, it is only good for around max 10A.

I will buy some of the 18 AWG wires from here http://intl-outdoor.com/18-awg-highly-flexible-silicone-copper-wire-p-73... they should be good for around max 20A.

When I measure current the tail cap is not used so the switch does not count.
But with this high currents, I will do the through board switch bypass soon.

On my DMM I used 20cm short 18 AWG wires, but I think it is not that accurate at over 10A.

edit: Still happy with the light, the triple is installed in a mini S2+. I managed to squeeze a 18500 cell into it using the shorter S2 pill. The low modes are very useable and on the highest mode it is a very (!) bright, very small, floddy light. But also after 20 sec in the highest mode the light is too hot to hold

Tom E wrote:

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:

I put a 219c into a 1504 with a 16×7135 Q.lite and it pulls 6A with ease from an Efest Purple 3500mAh 26650.

Excellent work, btw! From the beamshot earlier you posted, looks like the 219C doesn’t tint shift much when de-domed.

This is what I was trying to decipher from that photo. On my monitor, the S4 die appears way too yellow compared to anything I’ve seen in a 2B tint. The Nichia looks like the 2B tint, and the 2B looks like it would be the 219C. But as I linked to before, kelvin actually tells us nothing about true CRI. It still doesn’t explain that extremely deep yellow tint in the die corners on an S4 2B bin. I suspect the remaining polymer on the die of the 219C is actually messing with the amount of blue within focus, acting somewhat like a pre-collimator. It’s just that, it usually doesn’t occur so much without a full dome. Or I should say, usually doesn’t occur that much, with so little dome left.

The 219C appears closer to an “off-white” ~4500K with slight red fringe around the image, the Cree G2 S4 2B looks like it’s across the spectrum on my monitor, like 3300K tint in the corners. It looks de-focused, because of the corners shifting towards red spectrum and the center being colder in appearance. Hmm…. Beats me!

MEM wrote:

Tom E wrote:

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:

I put a 219c into a 1504 with a 16×7135 Q.lite and it pulls 6A with ease from an Efest Purple 3500mAh 26650.

Excellent work, btw! From the beamshot earlier you posted, looks like the 219C doesn’t tint shift much when de-domed.

This is what I was trying to decipher from that photo. On my monitor, the S4 die appears way too yellow compared to anything I’ve seen in a 2B tint. The Nichia looks like the 2B tint, and the 2B looks like it would be the 219C. But as I linked to before, kelvin actually tells us nothing about true CRI. It still doesn’t explain that extremely deep yellow tint in the die corners on an S4 2B bin. I suspect the remaining polymer on the die of the 219C is actually messing with the amount of blue within focus, acting somewhat like a pre-collimator. It’s just that, it usually doesn’t occur so much without a full dome. Or I should say, usually doesn’t occur that much, with so little dome left.

The 219C appears closer to an “off-white” ~4500K with slight red fringe around the image, the Cree G2 S4 2B looks like it’s across the spectrum on my monitor, like 3300K tint in the corners. It looks de-focused, because of the corners shifting towards red spectrum and the center being colder in appearance. Hmm…. Beats me!

What is missing from the analysis is the fact that it’s not a white wall, creamy beige PC color is more like what it really is. I’m sure that’s why they look so yellow. The image was more for intensity, size, and relative color difference as opposed to a controlled white wall shot. It would have been good of me to state that it wasn’t a white wall in the original post of the picture

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:

What is missing from the analysis is the fact that it’s not a white wall, creamy beige PC color is more like what it really is. I’m sure that’s why they look so yellow. The image was more for intensity, size, and relative color difference as opposed to a controlled white wall shot. It would have been good of me to state that it wasn’t a white wall in the original post of the picture

Ha, yep! Agreed, that does explain it. …I should not assume all walls with die images on them at BLF are white!

I received my 219c's from Cutter today.  They were very well packed, but I was very disappointed that they were not on Noctigons as the product page indicated.  The Page clearly shows them on 20mm Noctigons and says mounted on 20mm base.  It does not say an aluminum base.  I would prefer them to not be on any base if not on a Noctigon.  Now I have to buy some DTP bases and subject the emitters to reflow heat 2 more times.

What I got:

Hmm yeah I definitely thought they came on Noctigons. I almost ordered some 4000k from them because I figured the Noctigons would make the cost worth it.

That is a shame. There is no way they are going to work on more current than we can get through an XM-L2, without direct thermal.

Oh noooo. for some reason I thought these were bare. That is a really, really deceptive listing. Cutter has a presence here and posts - can't find the name, but if you find it, maybe you can pm. Really weird they don't offer them bare. I know their site is many times wayyy out of sync with what they really have. I think Mrs.DNF told me.

Before you panic, check those stars. Cutter has their own DTP mcpcb’s and they are no different from Noctigon or MaxToch or SinkPAD. See if you can detect the thermal pad beside the emitter and touch it with one probe while contacting the base with the other, checking for continuity. My bet is your DMM will beep at you and all will be well with the world.

welight is the Cutter contact here. I wonder when you ordered them ImA4Wheelr whether welight was on holidays (he still is) and there is a mistake? I picked up six from there today myself along with the Noctigons separately.

I haven't run across an aluminum DTP that worked nearly as good as a copper DTP yet.  None the less, these don't appear to be DTP.  I don't want to do any testing that will mar them in case I end up returning them.  They have no markings and the thermal traces indicate non-DTP.  I could not get continuity on any of the thermal pad solder blobs, but I didn't try to clean and scrap them to make sure flux coating was not interfering.

I imagine the ad or lack of Noctigons is just a mistake.  I emailed Cutter last night.  I just PM'd welight.

Cutter are usually fairly forthright with their sales, so I’d give them the benefit of the doubt unless proven otherwise. For reference the Tpad DTP stars look like so: 14mm 20mm
Say… would you be interested in parting ways with 1 or 2 of those 4000k 219Cs at all?

They did the same thing with an XP-G2 here: http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1954. Shows the Noctigon, but says "20mm Round Shaped Metal Core PCB", which means it's a MCPCB, that's it. The link to the MCPCB is broken as well. It's not looking good.

It's a shame because they got them bare obviously because MRsDNF bought them that way, just no way to buy them on the site.

I left a query on their site about it - no response yet.

Well it’s Sunday night here and the first of the posts on the issue by ImA4Wheelr was on Friday night (Melbourne time) so we shall see soon. It’ll be Monday midnight in a minute. TBH, I’d prefer them bare as Noctigons don’t come in anything smaller than 16mm.

Just to clear things up I bought six leds and six stars, both separately. I never ordered anything by part number.