The only thing we would really need to make it work with the Q8 would be the thread pitch and size, that is fairly simple to figure out once people get them.
The hard part is the CAD design for the reflector itself. If someone could get a workable cad design for the reflector then the rest should be fairly simple. Could even 3D print a prototype for testing and cover it in mylar or other reflector coating for testing.
I have no idea how to calculate / figure out the shape of the reflector though. It would need to spring the light as evenly as possible in a 360 degree Field of view and have a sharp cutoff horizontally to keep from blinding yourself. Totally possible but also fairly advanced reflector design..
this is a lantern.
The proto looks a bit longer because DBSAR used a SRK, lots of space is not needed and the charging and powerbank functionality are sweet.
Made well this is much more sturdy then a diffuser , handy while camping.
The big Q8 output is not needed, so the led driving part can be made with less components, freeing space for the nifty camping features.
The big Q8 output is not needed, so the led driving part can be made with less components, freeing space for the nifty camping features.
The existing driver is already as compact as you will get expect for going to a newer MCU that doesn’t have any firmware right now. In fact this light should really use a buck driver for higher efficiency but that will take up significantly more space then the existing driver.
Lantern with power bank functionality, that takes 4×18650 cells and ideally has other functions gets my vote for the next project.
ideas for other features
waterproof slot for matches, usb cables etc
12v input
Timer to off or moonlight mode
threaded base for tripod mount
flap or curtain for creating a shadow side, ideally reflective for more output to the other side.
Ah, the new photos show something that looks very much like a Q8 with a light handler on top. This is what I thought was being suggested way back.
I would suggest that such a configuration is not a waste of a Q8, but a more flexible implementation. I would recommend thinking about an attachment between a Q8 and the lamp diffuser that does not involve threading. Simply using a clamping mechanism of some sort would allow a simple and quick way to move between lantern and raw Q8. Best of both worlds. And allows rapidly going from werewolf target identifier to werewolf locator. Sorry, I am reading a werewolf series that is quite good; it just spilled over a bit here..
I think there’s definitely a market for DBSAR’s dedicated lantern design, Q8 attachments or not. Look at how popular Fenix’s lanterns are, for example. They’ve even been doing well enough to catch the attention of the generic manufacturers, who’ve clearly ripped off the design for themselves.
Lantern with power bank functionality, that takes 4×18650 cells and ideally has other functions gets my vote for the next project.
ideas for other features
waterproof slot for matches, usb cables etc
12v input
Timer to off or moonlight mode
threaded base for tripod mount
flap or curtain for creating a shadow side, ideally reflective for more output to the other side.
some nice ideas for additions there
This lantern prototype uses a Nanjq Q-Lite driver which has moonlight mode, ( then Low,medium, & High) on moonlight it will run for over a month.
—
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
Email send to Barry and DBSAR
1 to point Barry to this thread and urge Thorfire to make this high quality lantern
2 to provide DBSAR with the Q8 CAD files so he can do the design, show Thorfire and us what is the plan with some pictures.
This lantern prototype uses a Nanjq Q-Lite driver which has moonlight mode, ( then Low,medium, & High) on moonlight it will run for over a month.
I could have worded it better, what I meant was the ability to set a timer so that it maintains current light output, then at the end of the timer goes to either off, or moonlight, whichever was selected.
This is something ideal for camping, so you can read in a sleeping bag until too sleepy to want to get up to turn off the light, which will wake you (and others with a noisy zipper) up anyway, and have the light turn off by itself, or revert to a night-light function if you do not want complete darkness.
Wait didn’t TK do things with timers?
Gonna point her to this post.
DBSAR, driver software needed things?
e switch
moon yes no
low 5%, med 40%, high 100% (or ramp?)
memory yes no
reverse by long click yes no
voltage readout
timer setting 1 light on, dimming after X time
timer setting 2 light off, slowly turn on after X time
sideswitch, beacon or off
Glad this thread is getting some action again. I’m definitely still interested in this and would also prefer a finished, dedicated lantern instead of an accessory for my Q8.
I didn’t know this thread existed. I’m a bit behind on the specs and goals… but it’s a lantern head for the Q8 body? Screw-on bezel attachment for a lantern-style diffuser? The driver is a Q8 driver, with FET+1 and e-switch and tiny85? Whole new light?
I’ve been using a “good night” mode on my lights for years, and was recently pondering adding an alarm clock mode. I doubt it would be a stretch to make something designed for lantern-style use.
The upside of a big MCU like the tiny85 is it has plenty of space for cool features. The downside is that it draws more power, so moon mode won’t last as long. Unless I can find a way to reduce operating power, but I don’t expect to find huge improvements there.
If it’s using an e-switch and Q8 driver, I could make firmware for it pretty quickly. If it’s new hardware it’ll take longer.
New light
I THINK best if it is sharing tube, tail and switch of the Q8.
Same bottom side of Q8 head, so same switch and tripod mount location but above that all new head.
And a new driver so a lower power using MCU is preferred for it is not a lumen monster at all. Runtime rules. I think DBSAR aims for 500 lumens, maybe even less from a single led.
But it is his project so he can say it much better
If it shares tube, tail and switch it’s still possible to have connections for charging etc. on the (under)side of the head, so definately sounds interesting.
Would also make it cheaper and easier for getting Thorfire interested in producing it.
For some reason I kind of expect DBSAR to do the connectors on the same flat as the tripod mount, so a rubber flap can be securely bolted to the tripod mount.
But of course it is up to him, he has the CAD files to go wild
I think a nice idea would be to have a second tailcap, that way USB ports and coiled up charging cables can be secured in an already waterproof area. Drawback Is of course tailstand, unless the lantern has tuck-away legs. Diagram looks a bit unstable without legs anyway.
For some reason I kind of expect DBSAR to do the connectors on the same flat as the tripod mount, so a rubber flap can be securely bolted to the tripod mount.
But of course it is up to him, he has the CAD files to go wild
I think for a lantern/camp light, water resistance/proof is more important that a typical EDC. I wouldn’t mind seeing connectors protected by something more robust than the typical loose friction fit flap.
edit: I just re-read your post – were you suggesting somehow using the tripod mount as a positive engagement point for securing the connector cover? I like that
Is having the charging port in the tail causing an electronic design problem? (like the need for an extra electrical connection from driver to tail?)
Some bright ideas Zulumoose! And I can understand the tripod mount being more handy on the underside, and thinking of that, if the tailcap is made a bit longer it can both house the tripod hole in the middle and on the inside space around the tripod-hole-pillar for a charging cable. (or a chunky ring magnet ) The silvered shade sounds useful too.
For some reason I kind of expect DBSAR to do the connectors on the same flat as the tripod mount, so a rubber flap can be securely bolted to the tripod mount.
But of course it is up to him, he has the CAD files to go wild
I think for a lantern/camp light, water resistance/proof is more important that a typical EDC. I wouldn’t mind seeing connectors protected by something more robust than the typical loose friction fit flap.
edit: I just re-read your post – were you suggesting somehow using the tripod mount as a positive engagement point for securing the connector cover? I like that
Yes, hold down a rubber thing to protect the port from water and dust using the tripod mouting hole that is there, maybe even using one of these so it can still be attached to a tripod while the protective rubber is in place:
Djoz, I think keeping the electronics on driver board makes a lot of sense, being a lantern tail standing is natural position
And there is space on the driver boards.
Use it with 3 cells and cables can go in the area for fourth cell
flap or curtain for creating a shadow side, ideally reflective for more output to the other side
My thougts for this are:
1. would make the lantern bigger, but maybe there’s a nice compromise (also weatherproof will be more realistic and less expensive than waterproof)
2. if USB input supports QC 2.0, 12V would be possible with standard gear (regular USB Type-C or 3.0 cable and USB QC powerbank or power supply)
3. nice idea, also for childs
4. like with the Fenix CL20R, magnetic tripod mount would be perfect
5. this should be optional, to make it cheaper for people don’t needing it. Clever would be an electronic solution with controlling half of the horizontal LEDs separately (like the Cateye Rapid X3)
ok Miller sent me some info on the Q8 design. I will work on a basic specification description of a combination of my current prototype above using the Q8 battery tube/base possibly, (with drawings) and explanation on how the lantern could be used with the extra mentioned ideas mentioned. The Q8 driver may be a bit to much for a lantern, ( the higher modes would cause severe overheating very quickly and short run times on the higher modes) as for lanterns continuous run times are among the most important. Right now the prototype pulls roughly 700-mA on high, (from a modified 2-7135 Q-Lite driver) and keeps the XP-L U5-5A3 emitter right in its most efficient maximum lumens-vs-amp-draw range, and will give a full weekends worth of use on high with a single charge from four 2500mAh 18650 cells, but giving the light output of an incandescent 40-watt light bulb.
—
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
Per the Cree datasheets, 700ma through a U5 XP-L is about 265Lm.
In real world use that is plenty of light to sufficiently illuminate a small outdoor campsite or large room indoors. And I do think 250 or less will be the most commonly used level of the lantern. But I also think that it would be nice to have higher outputs (I mean, this is BLF after all) of maybe 500Lm available somehow.
What kind of driver did you have in mind for the production light, did you want it to be 7135-based?
If it is 7135 based, the PCB could easily be designed to accept additional 7135’s so that even if the production light shipped with 2*7135, the mod-minded users could add one or two more.
interested!
The only thing we would really need to make it work with the Q8 would be the thread pitch and size, that is fairly simple to figure out once people get them.
The hard part is the CAD design for the reflector itself. If someone could get a workable cad design for the reflector then the rest should be fairly simple. Could even 3D print a prototype for testing and cover it in mylar or other reflector coating for testing.
I have no idea how to calculate / figure out the shape of the reflector though. It would need to spring the light as evenly as possible in a 360 degree Field of view and have a sharp cutoff horizontally to keep from blinding yourself. Totally possible but also fairly advanced reflector design..
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
this is a lantern.
The proto looks a bit longer because DBSAR used a SRK, lots of space is not needed and the charging and powerbank functionality are sweet.
Made well this is much more sturdy then a diffuser , handy while camping.
The big Q8 output is not needed, so the led driving part can be made with less components, freeing space for the nifty camping features.
It is done when it is done

How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
The existing driver is already as compact as you will get expect for going to a newer MCU that doesn’t have any firmware right now. In fact this light should really use a buck driver for higher efficiency but that will take up significantly more space then the existing driver.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Lantern with power bank functionality, that takes 4×18650 cells and ideally has other functions gets my vote for the next project.
ideas for other features
waterproof slot for matches, usb cables etc
12v input
Timer to off or moonlight mode
threaded base for tripod mount
flap or curtain for creating a shadow side, ideally reflective for more output to the other side.
Beam me up!
Ah, the new photos show something that looks very much like a Q8 with a light handler on top. This is what I thought was being suggested way back.
I would suggest that such a configuration is not a waste of a Q8, but a more flexible implementation. I would recommend thinking about an attachment between a Q8 and the lamp diffuser that does not involve threading. Simply using a clamping mechanism of some sort would allow a simple and quick way to move between lantern and raw Q8. Best of both worlds. And allows rapidly going from werewolf target identifier to werewolf locator. Sorry, I am reading a werewolf series that is quite good; it just spilled over a bit here..
Still anxiously awaiting my Q8…but lets not forget a big part of what makes this light so amazing. It cost $40…go ahead say it out loud…forty dollars!
Keep it simple.
I think there’s definitely a market for DBSAR’s dedicated lantern design, Q8 attachments or not. Look at how popular Fenix’s lanterns are, for example. They’ve even been doing well enough to catch the attention of the generic manufacturers, who’ve clearly ripped off the design for themselves.
some nice ideas for additions there
This lantern prototype uses a Nanjq Q-Lite driver which has moonlight mode, ( then Low,medium, & High) on moonlight it will run for over a month.
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
I am still very interested in this project.
Email send to Barry and DBSAR
1 to point Barry to this thread and urge Thorfire to make this high quality lantern
2 to provide DBSAR with the Q8 CAD files so he can do the design, show Thorfire and us what is the plan with some pictures.
It is done when it is done

How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
I could have worded it better, what I meant was the ability to set a timer so that it maintains current light output, then at the end of the timer goes to either off, or moonlight, whichever was selected.
This is something ideal for camping, so you can read in a sleeping bag until too sleepy to want to get up to turn off the light, which will wake you (and others with a noisy zipper) up anyway, and have the light turn off by itself, or revert to a night-light function if you do not want complete darkness.
Beam me up!
Wait didn’t TK do things with timers?
Gonna point her to this post.
DBSAR, driver software needed things?
e switch
moon yes no
low 5%, med 40%, high 100% (or ramp?)
memory yes no
reverse by long click yes no
voltage readout
timer setting 1 light on, dimming after X time
timer setting 2 light off, slowly turn on after X time
sideswitch, beacon or off
It is done when it is done

How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
this lantern seems very nice, subscribing so I can buy it in the future. Thanks for all the hard work.
Astrolux FT02 review
Glad this thread is getting some action again. I’m definitely still interested in this and would also prefer a finished, dedicated lantern instead of an accessory for my Q8.
I didn’t know this thread existed. I’m a bit behind on the specs and goals… but it’s a lantern head for the Q8 body? Screw-on bezel attachment for a lantern-style diffuser? The driver is a Q8 driver, with FET+1 and e-switch and tiny85? Whole new light?
I’ve been using a “good night” mode on my lights for years, and was recently pondering adding an alarm clock mode. I doubt it would be a stretch to make something designed for lantern-style use.
The upside of a big MCU like the tiny85 is it has plenty of space for cool features. The downside is that it draws more power, so moon mode won’t last as long. Unless I can find a way to reduce operating power, but I don’t expect to find huge improvements there.
If it’s using an e-switch and Q8 driver, I could make firmware for it pretty quickly. If it’s new hardware it’ll take longer.
New light
I THINK best if it is sharing tube, tail and switch of the Q8.
Same bottom side of Q8 head, so same switch and tripod mount location but above that all new head.
And a new driver so a lower power using MCU is preferred for it is not a lumen monster at all. Runtime rules. I think DBSAR aims for 500 lumens, maybe even less from a single led.
But it is his project so he can say it much better
It is done when it is done

How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
If it shares tube, tail and switch it’s still possible to have connections for charging etc. on the (under)side of the head, so definately sounds interesting.
Would also make it cheaper and easier for getting Thorfire interested in producing it.
My best paint skills :
For some reason I kind of expect DBSAR to do the connectors on the same flat as the tripod mount, so a rubber flap can be securely bolted to the tripod mount.
But of course it is up to him, he has the CAD files to go wild
It is done when it is done

How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
LOL, is this the same “The_Miller” as before? I think I read probably 20 of your posts before realizing the new avatar and username were you.
username is still the same
I really liked the avatar with J-Dub74 Q8 beamshot, but it looked not distinctive enough so wanted to change it anyways
It is done when it is done

How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
I think a nice idea would be to have a second tailcap, that way USB ports and coiled up charging cables can be secured in an already waterproof area. Drawback Is of course tailstand, unless the lantern has tuck-away legs. Diagram looks a bit unstable without legs anyway.
Beam me up!
What?! No…
It used to be “The_Miller”… right?
Now it is “The Miller”
Or am I crazy?
edit: I am crazy.
I just used the wayback machine to look at an old cached version and it was “The Miller”. Why in the world did I think it was The_Miller?
I think for a lantern/camp light, water resistance/proof is more important that a typical EDC. I wouldn’t mind seeing connectors protected by something more robust than the typical loose friction fit flap.
edit: I just re-read your post – were you suggesting somehow using the tripod mount as a positive engagement point for securing the connector cover? I like that
Is having the charging port in the tail causing an electronic design problem? (like the need for an extra electrical connection from driver to tail?)
Some bright ideas Zulumoose! And I can understand the tripod mount being more handy on the underside, and thinking of that, if the tailcap is made a bit longer it can both house the tripod hole in the middle and on the inside space around the tripod-hole-pillar for a charging cable. (or a chunky ring magnet
) The silvered shade sounds useful too.
link to djozz tests
Yes, hold down a rubber thing to protect the port from water and dust using the tripod mouting hole that is there, maybe even using one of these so it can still be attached to a tripod while the protective rubber is in place:
https://www.banggood.com/14-Inch-Male-to-14-Inch-Female-Screw-Adapter-Fo...
Djoz, I think keeping the electronics on driver board makes a lot of sense, being a lantern tail standing is natural position
And there is space on the driver boards.
Use it with 3 cells and cables can go in the area for fourth cell
It is done when it is done

How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
My thougts for this are:
1. would make the lantern bigger, but maybe there’s a nice compromise (also weatherproof will be more realistic and less expensive than waterproof)
2. if USB input supports QC 2.0, 12V would be possible with standard gear (regular USB Type-C or 3.0 cable and USB QC powerbank or power supply)
3. nice idea, also for childs
4. like with the Fenix CL20R, magnetic tripod mount would be perfect
5. this should be optional, to make it cheaper for people don’t needing it. Clever would be an electronic solution with controlling half of the horizontal LEDs separately (like the Cateye Rapid X3)
ok Miller sent me some info on the Q8 design. I will work on a basic specification description of a combination of my current prototype above using the Q8 battery tube/base possibly, (with drawings) and explanation on how the lantern could be used with the extra mentioned ideas mentioned. The Q8 driver may be a bit to much for a lantern, ( the higher modes would cause severe overheating very quickly and short run times on the higher modes) as for lanterns continuous run times are among the most important. Right now the prototype pulls roughly 700-mA on high, (from a modified 2-7135 Q-Lite driver) and keeps the XP-L U5-5A3 emitter right in its most efficient maximum lumens-vs-amp-draw range, and will give a full weekends worth of use on high with a single charge from four 2500mAh 18650 cells, but giving the light output of an incandescent 40-watt light bulb.
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
Per the Cree datasheets, 700ma through a U5 XP-L is about 265Lm.
In real world use that is plenty of light to sufficiently illuminate a small outdoor campsite or large room indoors. And I do think 250 or less will be the most commonly used level of the lantern. But I also think that it would be nice to have higher outputs (I mean, this is BLF after all) of maybe 500Lm available somehow.
What kind of driver did you have in mind for the production light, did you want it to be 7135-based?
If it is 7135 based, the PCB could easily be designed to accept additional 7135’s so that even if the production light shipped with 2*7135, the mod-minded users could add one or two more.
There you go..
A smaller MCU, less parts GLR driving the led, leaving lots of space for the cool charging and powerbank functions on the driver board.
It is done when it is done

How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
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