*BLF LT1 Lantern Project) (updated Nov,17,2020)

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FlashPilot
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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

Lately, I have been discussing some ideas with Barry (Sofirn) and DBSAR, among them a (limited) run of a special LT1R with Samsung LH351D 4000K 90CRI and Luminus SST20-DR 660nm.


Basically, we would sacrifice standard tint ramping between 5000K and 2700K (LT1) and exchange that by tint ramping between a warm neutralwhite 4000K HighCRI and a true deep red tint with 660nm wavelength. Additionally, this LT1R could be anodized in red color (not discussed with Sofirn yet) to emphasize the unique proposition of this model. This plan would mean very little efforts in (re-)development if any and keep markup costs to a minimum.


Hi Lux,

Has this gained any ground yet? Id still love to own a red host with 4000K & red emitters. Others would also.

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Gedzdead wrote:
What is the difference between Version 1 and 2? Do I understand correctly that version 2 has an included USB C to C cable, and the Version one is USB A to C? Any other differences?

Both v1  and v2  come with USB-A to USB-C cable.

from what I observe:

version 1 (board revision 4.3):
 - charging works with USB-A to USB-C cable, but not USB-C-to-USB-C cable
 - the solder points 4 & 5 appear to be manually soldered (can unsolder to reduce max brightness)
 - slightly earlier Anduril version

version 2 (board revision 5.0):
 - charging works with USB-A to USB-C, and also USB-C-to-USB-C cable ; this is because a tiny resistor has been soldered near the charging port portion to allow USB-C-to-USB-C to work
 - the solder points 4 & 5 appear to be jumpered already internally (I think will need to break that jumper to have reduced max brightness) <= I'm not very sure about this part though..
 - a bit later Anduril version (2020-03-18 or 2020-06-02) ; it's noted by Lux Perpetua that they may use Anduril 2 in the future - not sure if the board would still be the same -- I have already flashed my LT1 to Anduril 2...

 

I notice the position of the "loc. LED" label on the board changes from v4.3 to v5.0 = not sure if it's just the label position move or there is any change.

Fescron
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FlashPilot wrote:
Lux-Perpetua wrote:

Lately, I have been discussing some ideas with Barry (Sofirn) and DBSAR, among them a (limited) run of a special LT1R with Samsung LH351D 4000K 90CRI and Luminus SST20-DR 660nm.


Basically, we would sacrifice standard tint ramping between 5000K and 2700K (LT1) and exchange that by tint ramping between a warm neutralwhite 4000K HighCRI and a true deep red tint with 660nm wavelength. Additionally, this LT1R could be anodized in red color (not discussed with Sofirn yet) to emphasize the unique proposition of this model. This plan would mean very little efforts in (re-)development if any and keep markup costs to a minimum.


Hi Lux,

Has this gained any ground yet? Id still love to own a red host with 4000K & red emitters. Others would also.

Yes same Innocent

BT100
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good idea. I would buy 2

GMozz
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Received my Orange LT1, ordered from the Sofirn Aliexpress store. Amazing super quick 10 days delivery to Australia (never had an Aliexpress shipment that quick!).

Unit is certainly nice and solid, feels very well built in the hand.

A small blotch of one-two diamonds of the knurling are missing the orange anodizing, but otherwise the finish is really nice.

Ordered the kit version so it included the Sofirn batteries, and unfortunately one of the batteries had a very sharp edge on the top nipple. The result of this was every time you unscrew the batteries, you would get a pile of metal shavings from the battery cutting a groove in the contact ring on the board. Thankfully I noticed that quite quickly and a minute with a jewelers file solved that issue, as having metal filings shaking around near the driver board may not have ended well.

What glue have people used to attach the top o-ring, as I see that pops off really easily?

The UI certainly is very “comprehensive”, but seems easy enough to just use the simple on/off, brightness up/down without using Muggle mode.

Congrats to DBSAR and others for all the work in producing this lantern. Certainly glad I bought this instead of the CL30R I was originally looking at to compliment by CL25R.

CDylanC
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I have the same problem with my batteries, I made a post about it to warn people. I tried to tell Barry but he said its not a problem Facepalm

Edit: I guess he didn’t understand what I was saying when I messaged him but they see the problem now I think.

roostre
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GMozz wrote:
... What glue have people used to attach the top o-ring, as I see that pops off really easily? ...

Welcome to the forum GMozz.

I moved the orange O-ring down on the light to the slot just above the lighted switch for decoration (where it cannot pop off anymore) and purchased some Youth/7" sized Silicone Rubber Wrist Bands (which are 1/2" wide and do not pop off unexpectedly like the orange O-ring) from AmazonUS to use at the top of my LT1 lanterns as a bumper for some limited extra protection in case the light trips over on it's side, but you may be able to find something similar in Australia.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VVPWJ8J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_...

I purchased the "Black" color which looks elegant on the light, but they have many colors to choose from including "Green Glow in Dark". I'm not sure which size fits best (Youth/7" or Adult/8") but the Youth/7" size seems to fit perfectly with just the right amount of stretch.

How many flashlights does a "real man" need?

None, real men are not afraid of the dark.

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I just used a couple drops of superglue and the orings haven’t moved on my two lanterns. Hot glue might be cleaner in the event that you want to remove it.

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Quote:
This has probably been asked before, but is there a pogo pin kit I can buy to flash the LT1 with a new firmware? I already have the kit Hank sells for Emisar / Noctigon lights, so if I can use the same with another pogo pin end, that would be nice. TIA.

This thread on Reddit describes the process using the Emisar flashing kit.

I’m really keen to try it myself but given the shipping cost I’m waiting to buy a Hank light before buying the flashing kit. If anyone can suggest an alternative flashing kit that’s a bit cheaper I would appreciate it.

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FlashPilot wrote:
Lux-Perpetua wrote:

Lately, I have been discussing some ideas with Barry (Sofirn) and DBSAR, among them a (limited) run of a special LT1R with Samsung LH351D 4000K 90CRI and Luminus SST20-DR 660nm.


Basically, we would sacrifice standard tint ramping between 5000K and 2700K (LT1) and exchange that by tint ramping between a warm neutralwhite 4000K HighCRI and a true deep red tint with 660nm wavelength. Additionally, this LT1R could be anodized in red color (not discussed with Sofirn yet) to emphasize the unique proposition of this model. This plan would mean very little efforts in (re-)development if any and keep markup costs to a minimum.


Hi Lux,

Has this gained any ground yet? Id still love to own a red host with 4000K & red emitters. Others would also.

I asked Barry a year ago about this. He thought it was a great idea, then, crickets. I even asked if I could buy a blank board to install my own emitters. He said sure, but never responded after that. I camp a lot in the summer, and red doesn’t attract bugs.

hyperknot
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hyperknot wrote:
Hi, can someone share the latest manual PDF? The Google drive link is not working.

Also, quick question, I got 2 black and 1 orange O-ring. What is the point of them? Do I need to use them? I kind of like my light without orange, just pure black.

Anyone with the manual in PDF? Who should I contact from the company?

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hyperknot wrote:
Hi, can someone share the latest manual PDF? The Google drive link is not working.

Does this help you?
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/76290
https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1566482#comment-1566482
hyperknot
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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

Both the English and German manual are now finished and ready to print. You can download it from the sharepoint. This will be the revision (10/04/2019) that Sofirn should be using as of batch #2. It will be forwarded to Sofirn by Monday next week, i.e. right after CND celebration has ended. Now, it should be as good as it gets.


Update October 5, 2019: Some significant changes and additions have come up (see following posts) that made it necessary to revise the manual once more. I have highlighted those changes in the pictures below. Now, I really hope everything is ready for printing. The final version has the time stamp “2019/05/10”.


 





Hi, the manual link is broken, can you share an updated one?

hyperknot
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angerdan wrote:
hyperknot wrote:
Hi, can someone share the latest manual PDF? The Google drive link is not working.
Does this help you? https://budgetlightforum.com/node/76290 https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1566482#comment-1566482

Thanks, the original manual is the one I’m looking for, I guess Lux can re-upload it.

kat
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Does anyone know if usb charging does balancing of the 18650 cells?
And why does the power button stay lit all the time? Doesn’t that consume battery when off?

stagger
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DBSAR wrote:
Serifus wrote:
How long until there is lt1 maxx using 4×21700’s because i think it would be lolsy to have a lantern with 20ah battery life

that cell format may be possible for the LT2 ( Deluxe) version planned, that will have the power bank option. a 20ah power bank/lantern has some real benefits for run times and charging capacity. Thumbs Up

Any updates on a 21700 LT2 version? Big Smile

pol77
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The way the batteries are connected in parallel, there is no way to do any balancing, so definitely no.
Any configuration with an electronic switch will consume battery when off. An indicator or auxiliary LED will add to this. You can turn the LED off in the Anduril configuration if you want and it will reduce the parasitic drain, but not remove it completely. The only way to have absolutely no drain is to unscrew the battery tube a few revolutions. Not just until the button LED goes off, but more, to completely sever the connection of the batteries to the light.

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The cells are in parallel so they will naturally self balance. No special considerations are required for balancing while charging.

The switch LED uses very little current (don’t remember exact numbers; it’s been mentioned before). It would take years to drain fully charged cells. If it’s a concern, it can be turned off.

GMozz
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I recall a calculation that the switch led would take 16yrs to drain the battery when set to low.

Now if you haven’t used the lantern in 16yrs…. well then the parasitic drain from the switch led is hardly the main concern.

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When I first got my LT1 I unboxed it, tested it playing around for a night then put it away & didn’t use it for a few months. Now I use it every night. Run it without cells off a 30,000nAh Romoss power bank and attach lantern to a light weight collapsible stand.
http://imgur.com/a/uEa9wyR
Looking forward to the mini when its done.

CR888

justanotherguy
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What this CL1 lantern ive seen on facebook?

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justanotherguy wrote:
What this CL1 lantern ive seen on facebook?

?link?

sarge12
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pol77 wrote:
The way the batteries are connected in parallel, there is no way to do any balancing, so definitely no.
Any configuration with an electronic switch will consume battery when off. An indicator or auxiliary LED will add to this. You can turn the LED off in the Anduril configuration if you want and it will reduce the parasitic drain, but not remove it completely. The only way to have absolutely no drain is to unscrew the battery tube a few revolutions. Not just until the button LED goes off, but more, to completely sever the connection of the batteries to the light.

Excuse me….with all cells in parallel, there is no way for them to not be balanced. 4 cells put into a carrier where all 4 positives touch the same conductor, and also terminate to the same ground will immediately start balancing. The higher potential cells will start charging those of lower potential until all 4 have equal potential.
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Is it supposed to look like this on the board? I hate to come off as rude but it just looks sloppy. Maybe it is normal?

Also, what is the adjustable component with a Philips head for?

Fescron
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JoeRodge wrote:
Is it supposed to look like this on the board? I hate to come off as rude but it just looks sloppy. Maybe it is normal?

Also, what is the adjustable component with a Philips head for?

The thing on the board is flux residue, it’s from the reflow soldering process and helps the solder flow well by enabling a better heat transfer and it also removes some corrosion from the copper and such. It’s no problem it’s still there but it does indeed look a bit dirty.

I’m pretty sure the adjustable component (potentiometer), in combination with the solder bridge on the left of it, can be used to increase/decrease the glow of the button.

JoeRodge
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I didn’t mean the flux. The outer ring is missing some material. Also why put solder on half of the “B” stuff like that.

Fescron
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JoeRodge wrote:
I didn’t mean the flux. The outer ring is missing some material. Also why put solder on half of the “B” stuff like that.

Hmm, I’m pretty sure the solder on the B is excess that came from under the ring… They must have applied a little bit too much solder paste or something. About the ring I don’t really get what you mean unfortunately…

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On the bottom right if the picture the layer what looks like gold. It looks like it a piece was scraped off. It was like that when I got it.

The solder thing makes sense, thanks. I feel like that could of been a safety hazard. Glad it didn’t short anything.

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Sofirn has a small batch of LT1 with Anduril 2 and powerbank function

https://sofirnlight.com/products/new-version-blf-lt1-lantern-with-anduri...

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flightless22 wrote:
Sofirn has a small batch of LT1 with Anduril 2 and powerbank function

https://sofirnlight.com/products/new-version-blf-lt1-lantern-with-anduri...

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