so when will these be available??? surely SOON would be better given that autumn and winter are JUST round the corner!!!!!!!!!
—
Caving, Climbing, Mountaineering, Kayaking, Diving etc any time anywhere!!! If you in the UK let me know and lets Play!
Current lighting
Olight X7R,M2R,S1 Baton,S10R Baton 3m,S2R 2, I1R EOS,SofirnC8T,Lenser P7'2,Lenser P14,BLF A6,Fenix HL50,HM50R,HL55,CL05,HL05,CL09,CL25,Nitecore HC30,HC65,NU12,NU32,Astolux K1,Petzl E-light,Tikka Xp3,XP3LED,DUO,Atomlight,Xtar Warboys H3,PL47 Manker E03H and many Chinese ones
I’m really hoping these are available during this seasons fall/early winter camping season! Summer camping is a no-go here. Too humid. Good luck sleeping in 85+ weather with 98% RH.
so finally added thermal viases, 1A and 1W is pretty much fine as it was, but if people want to go higher they need more cooling on the MOSFETs
also rearranged the common ground for the OPAs and MCU
so finally added thermal viases, 1A and 1W is pretty much fine as it was, but if people want to go higher they need more cooling on the MOSFETs
also rearranged the common ground for the OPAs and MCU
Looking good! Any thoughts or ideas on what the maximum “factory” amp draw on high is set? assuming it will depend on the sense-resistor ohm value? Also the button LED still has ability to change or be programmed from TK’s UI?
—
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
If “simple” version would be I am in. Simple , efficient, durable. That is I really need, no powerbank, no color change and so on.
I have to agree on this. Especially if it falls under the 39$ category.
4000k, over 90CRI, no color change, no need of powerbank. Just plain eyecandy lighting with longish runtime. One moonlight, one superlow, one low, one medium, one high. Nothing more, nothing less.
Preferably in silver color so scratches won’t show up and Nichia Optisolis leds with R9 over 90, and CRI over 95. which is a led that we apparently forgot about. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/61130
I can reflow leds easily. So I like 4000K, but can agree with any CCT.
T1 is not simple , not efficient, and not durable. I already have butch of such lamps.
It is worth investigate interest to simple version. And may be launch it after main project. This allows not to split the efforts, and second version would be born much faster.
If “simple” version would be I am in. Simple , efficient, durable. That is I really need, no powerbank, no color change and so on.
I have to agree on this. Especially if it falls under the 39$ category.
4000k, over 90CRI, no color change, no need of powerbank. Just plain eyecandy lighting with longish runtime. One moonlight, one superlow, one low, one medium, one high. Nothing more, nothing less.
The beauty of this UI is that you can have those modes, and I can have ramping. 3000K is mandatory for a lantern, and with temp changing we can have that and 5000K, and everything in between.
joechina wrote:
YOU need 4000K.
I want 3000K.
The next one hates WW and opt for 5000K.
Sofirn will sell probably only one lamp without tint ramping from the three above.
It makes a lot of sense to have tint ramping.
Yes, exactly. Especially since it’s pretty much already implemented.
mdeni wrote:
T1 is excellent, but it does not have 95+ CRI. And a LED swap is notoriously difficult.
Otherwise it would be extremely useful.
That’s why the temp ramping is so wonderful, no need for LED swaps (unless you’re wrong and prefer cool white, lol).
I still think that LED swaps will be made even on the Full version, because the Samsung LEDs are inferior to Nichia Optisolis.
That’s fine, but it’s not needed for most since a wide range of temps are covered. Those with the ability can, and those that can’t still have a good range. With the ramping, even with swapping the LED’s you get a more versatile light.
If "simple" version would be I am in. Simple , efficient, durable. That is I really need, no powerbank, no color change and so on.
I have to agree on this. Especially if it falls under the 39$ category. 4000k, over 90CRI, no color change, no need of powerbank. Just plain eyecandy lighting with longish runtime. One moonlight, one superlow, one low, one medium, one high. Nothing more, nothing less. Preferably in silver color so scratches won't show up and +*Nichia Optisolis leds with R9 over 90, and CRI over 95.*+ which is a led that we apparently forgot about.
The Nichia E21A is the better choice. It has a similar CRI (R9080), a tint under the BBL or on it, is available with every conceiveable CCT (2000K-6500K) and is more powerful compared to the Optoslis (less LEDs required). Here are Maukkas tests. This would require the use of a pcb with a special insulation material that has a low thermal resistance like Clemence and led4power use (should not be a problem cost wise since we need to get a pcb made anyhow). It would have the added benefit that we can put the FET onto this pcb to improve its heatsinking substantially (like led4power does). In my eyes this is the most elegant design.
As djozz has already mentioned tint is more important than ever higher cri ratings. The E21 R9080 LEDs offer a great tint.
If “simple” version would be I am in. Simple , efficient, durable. That is I really need, no powerbank, no color change and so on.
I have to agree on this. Especially if it falls under the 39$ category. 4000k, over 90CRI, no color change, no need of powerbank. Just plain eyecandy lighting with longish runtime. One moonlight, one superlow, one low, one medium, one high. Nothing more, nothing less. Preferably in silver color so scratches won’t show up and Nichia Optisolis leds with R9 over 90, and CRI over 95. which is a led that we apparently forgot about.
The Nichia E21A is the better choice. It has a similar CRI (R9080), a tint under the BBL or on it, is available with every conceiveable CCT (2000K-6500K) and is more powerful compared to the Optoslis (less LEDs required). This would require the use of a pcb with a special insulation material that has a low thermal resistance like Clemence and led4power use (should not be a problem cost wise since we need to get a pcb made anyhow). It would have the added benefit that we can put the FET onto this pcb to improve its heatsinking substantially (like led4power does). In my eyes this is the most elegant design.
As djozz has already mentioned tint is more important ever more more higher cri ratings. The E21 R9080 LEDs offer a great tint.
CRI9080 (CRI90, R9 over 80) and a tint below bbl is a lot better than CRI9050 and over bbl.
Optisolis has 9090 and near bbl, which is also amazingly excellent.
The Optisolis’ lower output / lower max amps can be fixed by using more of them. Spreading the emitting surface is not a problem for a lantern….quite the opposite in fact.
That said, I’m not voting for any emitter change, I’m fine with LH351* as well as E21 / Optisolis.
CRI9080 (CRI90, R9 over 80) and a tint below bbl is a lot better than CRI9050 and over bbl.
Optisolis has 9090 and near bbl, which is also amazingly excellent.
You can’t really see the difference between R9080 and R9090. Thats a tiny difference.
Also, the 5000K Optisolis that Maukka tested was above the BBL. So even these aren’t perfect.
Agro wrote:
The Optisolis’ lower output / lower max amps can be fixed by using more of them. Spreading the emitting surface is not a problem for a lantern….quite the opposite in fact.
That said, I’m not voting for any emitter change, I’m fine with LH351* as well as E21 / Optisolis.
Yes, but if we don’t use a boost driver we would have to put all those LEDs in parallel. Since they all have slightly different Vfs they would all be driven at different currents. With so many LEDs in parallel the lifetime of some of them might be reduced.
The Optisolis’ lower output / lower max amps can be fixed by using more of them. Spreading the emitting surface is not a problem for a lantern….quite the opposite in fact.
That said, I’m not voting for any emitter change, I’m fine with LH351* as well as E21 / Optisolis.
Yes, but if we don’t use a boost driver we woudl have to put all those LEDs in parallel. Since they all have slightly different Vfs they would all be driven at differenct currents. With so many LEDs in parallel the lifetime of some of them might be reduced.
Pretty cool to use Optisolis leds. Half a year ago I suggested using a bunch of 3030 midpower leds and did not get much acclaim. In the current phase I do not think it is a good idea to change the led choice anymore. I hope that Sofirn can get their hands on some good tinted LH351D’s
I’m signed up for several lanterns and am really looking forward to these. The biggest thing I care about is durability since these will be used for camping and will be bumping around in trucks offroad, etc. I don’t need the power bank, I don’t need tint shift, I don’t need a lot of the cool options and features that will come with this lantern (although I’m not against them either). What I do want is durability first and foremost.
GhostofHarry, added you to the interest list at number 975
NuggetMcNugget wrote:
I asked for 2 lights … please
You definitely did, and I definitely didn’t add your second light, until you reminded me. Your second is number 976 on the interest, sorry for the oversight.
—
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
I don’t care about powerbank function, charging function is nice to have but I can live without it, tint change is also nice but warm tint is just as good, ramping is essential, no preset modes without ramping please. Two – or more – memorized modes is very nice to have… I used that with T1, one mode for “locator” use and a second for general use for example but all memorized modes should be user selectable using ramping (eg change preset by click, click and hold to change – ramp – brightness of current mode, click to go to next mode, click and hold to program that mode and so on.
—
Let a flooder be my wife and a thrower be my mistress
so when will these be available??? surely SOON would be better given that autumn and winter are JUST round the corner!!!!!!!!!
Caving, Climbing, Mountaineering, Kayaking, Diving etc any time anywhere!!! If you in the UK let me know and lets Play!
Current lighting
Olight X7R,M2R,S1 Baton,S10R Baton 3m,S2R 2, I1R EOS,SofirnC8T,Lenser P7'2,Lenser P14,BLF A6,Fenix HL50,HM50R,HL55,CL05,HL05,CL09,CL25,Nitecore HC30,HC65,NU12,NU32,Astolux K1,Petzl E-light,Tikka Xp3,XP3LED,DUO,Atomlight,Xtar Warboys H3,PL47 Manker E03H and many Chinese ones
I’m really hoping these are available during this seasons fall/early winter camping season! Summer camping is a no-go here. Too humid. Good luck sleeping in 85+ weather with 98% RH.
so finally added thermal viases, 1A and 1W is pretty much fine as it was, but if people want to go higher they need more cooling on the MOSFETs
also rearranged the common ground for the OPAs and MCU
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
That’s a nice looking driver board. Thanks for your work, Lexel. I hope your hand is healing nicely.
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
Looking good! Any thoughts or ideas on what the maximum “factory” amp draw on high is set? assuming it will depend on the sense-resistor ohm value? Also the button LED still has ability to change or be programmed from TK’s UI?
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
Oh look, another Wagon.
Please put me down for 2.
Thanks!
If “simple” version would be I am in. Simple , efficient, durable. That is I really need, no powerbank, no color change and so on.
The original concept for this project was just that. single color, 4 modes, basic built in 1 am charging, (as i built the V1 of the first lantern.
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
I have to agree on this. Especially if it falls under the 39$ category.
4000k, over 90CRI, no color change, no need of powerbank. Just plain eyecandy lighting with longish runtime. One moonlight, one superlow, one low, one medium, one high. Nothing more, nothing less.
Preferably in silver color so scratches won’t show up and Nichia Optisolis leds with R9 over 90, and CRI over 95. which is a led that we apparently forgot about. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/61130
YOU need 4000K.
I want 3000K.
The next one hates WW and opt for 5000K.
Sofirn will sell probably only one lamp without tint ramping from the three above.
It makes a lot of sense to have tint ramping.
If you want a cheap one (with a few flaws) you can search BLF for the Zanflare T1.
Maukka did a short test here: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1356557#comment-1356557
T1 is excellent, but it does not have 95+ CRI. And a LED swap is notoriously difficult.
Otherwise it would be extremely useful.
It can be 3000K or 4000K, or 5000K. It does not make a difference as long as the CRI is above 95 and R9 is above 90. Try it, you will see.
And I like this. I don’t need even charger, but IPx8
I can reflow leds easily. So I like 4000K, but can agree with any CCT.
T1 is not simple , not efficient, and not durable. I already have butch of such lamps.
It is worth investigate interest to simple version. And may be launch it after main project. This allows not to split the efforts, and second version would be born much faster.
The beauty of this UI is that you can have those modes, and I can have ramping. 3000K is mandatory for a lantern, and with temp changing we can have that and 5000K, and everything in between.
Yes, exactly. Especially since it’s pretty much already implemented.
That’s why the temp ramping is so wonderful, no need for LED swaps (unless you’re wrong and prefer cool white, lol).
I still think that LED swaps will be made even on the Full version, because the Samsung LEDs are inferior to Nichia Optisolis.
That’s fine, but it’s not needed for most since a wide range of temps are covered. Those with the ability can, and those that can’t still have a good range. With the ramping, even with swapping the LED’s you get a more versatile light.
The Nichia E21A is the better choice. It has a similar CRI (R9080), a tint under the BBL or on it, is available with every conceiveable CCT (2000K-6500K) and is more powerful compared to the Optoslis (less LEDs required). Here are Maukkas tests. This would require the use of a pcb with a special insulation material that has a low thermal resistance like Clemence and led4power use (should not be a problem cost wise since we need to get a pcb made anyhow). It would have the added benefit that we can put the FET onto this pcb to improve its heatsinking substantially (like led4power does). In my eyes this is the most elegant design.
As djozz has already mentioned tint is more important than ever higher cri ratings. The E21 R9080 LEDs offer a great tint.
Project Excalibur - Next Generation LED Thrower (UPDATE 2018-01-15: 1.7Mcd)
Portable Thrower Comparison
yup the hard truth, tint > CRI
CRI9080 (CRI90, R9 over 80) and a tint below bbl is a lot better than CRI9050 and over bbl.
Optisolis has 9090 and near bbl, which is also amazingly excellent.
The Optisolis’ lower output / lower max amps can be fixed by using more of them. Spreading the emitting surface is not a problem for a lantern….quite the opposite in fact.
That said, I’m not voting for any emitter change, I’m fine with LH351* as well as E21 / Optisolis.
You can’t really see the difference between R9080 and R9090. Thats a tiny difference.
Also, the 5000K Optisolis that Maukka tested was above the BBL. So even these aren’t perfect.
Yes, but if we don’t use a boost driver we would have to put all those LEDs in parallel. Since they all have slightly different Vfs they would all be driven at different currents. With so many LEDs in parallel the lifetime of some of them might be reduced.
Project Excalibur - Next Generation LED Thrower (UPDATE 2018-01-15: 1.7Mcd)
Portable Thrower Comparison
Good point.
Pretty cool to use Optisolis leds. Half a year ago I suggested using a bunch of 3030 midpower leds and did not get much acclaim. In the current phase I do not think it is a good idea to change the led choice anymore. I hope that Sofirn can get their hands on some good tinted LH351D’s
link to djozz tests
One for me please, if it’s not too late.
Phaze13, you have numbers 972 and 973 on the interest list
Sillen has number 974 on the interest list
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
Im Interested!
Would buy one!
GhostofHarry
I’m signed up for several lanterns and am really looking forward to these. The biggest thing I care about is durability since these will be used for camping and will be bumping around in trucks offroad, etc. I don’t need the power bank, I don’t need tint shift, I don’t need a lot of the cool options and features that will come with this lantern (although I’m not against them either). What I do want is durability first and foremost.
GhostofHarry, added you to the interest list at number 975
You definitely did, and I definitely didn’t add your second light, until you reminded me. Your second is number 976 on the interest, sorry for the oversight.
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
I don’t care about powerbank function, charging function is nice to have but I can live without it, tint change is also nice but warm tint is just as good, ramping is essential, no preset modes without ramping please. Two – or more – memorized modes is very nice to have… I used that with T1, one mode for “locator” use and a second for general use for example but all memorized modes should be user selectable using ramping (eg change preset by click, click and hold to change – ramp – brightness of current mode, click to go to next mode, click and hold to program that mode and so on.
Let a flooder be my wife and a thrower be my mistress
Hello,
I thought I asked to be added to list a couple of months ago, but maybe didn’t, anyways, PLEASE PUT ME DOWN FOR 1!
Thanks!
BLF (GT, Q8, A6)
Haikelite (MT03 TA, SC01)
Astrolux (EC01, FT03, MF-01, S1, S42)
Sofirn (C8A, SP32A, SF14, SP40)
Emisar (D4, D4S)
[Convoy L6, Utorch UT02, KDLITKER C8.2, Inova T4R]
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