And here’s another energy harvesting driver which will run an LED off of body heat via a Thermoelectric Peltier or TEG, only 25mV required! The resistor and capacitor in center can have two different value pairs, depending on the design revision. The caps with question marks need to be pulled off the board and measured out of circuit. They’re 0402 parts! You can buy the PCB for only $12 from the usual electronics component distributors.
Hi, please do not post embedded images, as they cause server load issues. …
What is considered an embedded image in this context?
—
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Quick question fellows, does anyone knows which type of reverse polarity protection MOSFET the H1-A driver employs? It's the small 3 pin thing at the board backside, just g00gl€d the markings but no hits. The usage of such small MOSFET is also a tad strange to me, it totally looks inadequate given the amount of input current it should handle.
—
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Quick question fellows, does anyone knows which type of reverse polarity protection MOSFET the H1-A driver employs? It’s the small 3 pin thing at the board backside, just g00gl€d the markings but no hits. The usage of such small MOSFET is also a tad strange to me, it totally looks inadequate given the amount of input current it should handle.
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Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
Just tried to resister mod the h2-c driver from KD. It’s is now garbage, stuck on low power blinky mode. The driver also uses an different layout (compared to the pictures in the convoy L2/l6 mod thread ). The sense resistor on my version also had an r50 instead of the r100.
The sense resistor was never an R100 in the H2-C Hellie112. Jensen567's early unit had two R100 resistors stacked, that equals 50mΩ (=R050).
Carefully check what you did to the sense resistor or other parts of the layout. “Low power blinky mode” looks to be low battery warning. If you have increased the power output and are using just 1 cell as input bear in mind other parts in the circuit causing voltage drops need to be optimized, this means good switch and well done spring bypasses or high current springs (you should optimize the current path anyway). Maybe you went overboard reducing the sense resistor.
—
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I didn’t had much time this afternoon. Guess never mod when you are in a hurry But a trace on the backside (close to the spring) was completely burned. Did a bypass but now the driver pulls 10 amps (at the battery).. no change in output when changing modes. But I still got the flashing mode..
I have a KX70 driver that has been modified exactly as Jensen567 had detailed, putting on a 2.8V LDO, moving the cap, with .01875 sense resistor. Everything seems to be working, except for one thing. The driver doesn’t fully turn off. The momentary goes through the modes using 1 press per switch, and it doesn’t seem to cycle off, so I hold to momentary down, and it seems to turn off, except the led (XHP70.2) is slightly lit, almost like a moonlight mode. Is there anything I’m missing?
… got a quick question. Is this the sense resistor?
Yes.
—
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FYI, just ordered a few recently and seems like small revisions. Old on the left (few months ago), new on the right.
…
Looks like an H1-A with downgraded inductor (?). I wonder how much of an actual impact that has when increasing the current/power output near the TPS61088's integrated switch current limit (10A). Thumbs down of course.
—
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Looks like an H1-A with downgraded inductor (?). I wonder how much of an actual impact that has when increasing the current/power output near the TPS61088’s integrated switch current limit (10A). Thumbs down of course.
Yeah, I wasn’t sure either, was hoping someone here could tell better than I could. Haven’t dropped it into a light yet.
It list a ‘Texas Avenger FET Driver with charging’ as a driver. I basically wanted it to run like the FT02 did if possible.
We are still a ways off from having universal boost drivers that can run NarsilM or Anduril or just an E-switch in general. You will also loose the charging.
The few universal boost drivers out there are limited to whatever brightness levels and UI it comes with. I am still waiting for better drivers.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
… We are still a ways off from having universal boost drivers that can run NarsilM or Anduril … … I am still waiting for better drivers.
Universal? What do you mean by universal? For universal things to exist as a rule most people would need to develop its consciousness and themselves a good deal more.
NarsilM? Anduril? What gives? I Hi-Lo-Strobe LoL.
In all honesty, using fantasy names for microcontroller software may sound compelling for the freaks. For people outside of these circles, definitively not. I've been around here for some time already and I've never used a torch with software of that class, for example.
I would choose a descriptive term. For example, Advanced Multifunction Flashlight Firmware vX.Y.
Of course I have to admit NarsilM or Anduril are terms which completely fail to inspire me. I prefer DynamiteBundle or BonnyC4Piece instead.
—
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Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
…
We are still a ways off from having universal boost drivers that can run NarsilM or Anduril …
… I am still waiting for better drivers.
Universal? What do you mean by universal?
I mean like the same driver design available in a variety of sizes like 17mm, 19mm, 20mm, 22mm, 26mm, 30mm, 46mm. Maybe the bigger drivers have more power, but the basically the same design.
This is what MTN E and Lexel are working on. A good boost driver design that can be made in multiple sizes using an e-switch and some nice ramping firmware. Lexel is working on Anduril and NarsilM while MTN E uses RampingIOS.
MTN E has released a few sizes of his boost driver, 17mm, 20mm and 22mm, but they are not ready for e-switch, yet. Lexel has not released any of his yet.
I am not interested in tail clicky, Hi, Med, Low designs.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Can the H1-A be modded to add a remote pot for dimming?
A potentiometer is like a variable resistor. The firmware in that driver looks for a brief loss of power (it uses a capacitor to keep it’s MCU “clock” running for a few seconds) to recognize when to change brightness levels. So it is two completely different things.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Can the H1-A be modded to add a remote pot for dimming?
I can’t say for sure as I haven’t tried it but adding a pot would probably have to be done using a PWM circuit controlled by a pot.
I have used this simple 555 timer circuit a few times to add pot controlled PWM to circuits that accept pwm input. https://circuitdigest.com/electronic-circuits/555-timer-pwm-generator-ci...
On the H1-A, cutting the trace from the PWM output at pin 5 on the MCU and adding the circuit above with the pot controlled pwm output tied to the the cut trace might work. At least that’s how I would try to make it work.
Can the H1-A be modded to add a remote pot for dimming?
A potentiometer is like a variable resistor. The firmware in that driver looks for a brief loss of power (it uses a capacitor to keep it’s MCU “clock” running for a few seconds) to recognize when to change brightness levels. So it is two completely different things.
So could the 555 timer circuit be added to a cut pin 5 trace for variable brightness or does it not apply to this circuit.
I think you have a little more electronics back ground than me, that’s the reason for asking.
We are still a ways off from having universal boost drivers that can run NarsilM or Anduril or just an E-switch in general. You will also loose the charging.
The few universal boost drivers out there are limited to whatever brightness levels and UI it comes with. I am still waiting for better drivers.
Thanks. Don’t mind loosing charging but the UI is a pass for me too. What’s the sticking point for those working on making them? To a complete layman? Keeping the voltage boosted while all the possible clicks/outcomes?
Can the H1-A be modded to add a remote pot for dimming?
A potentiometer is like a variable resistor. The firmware in that driver looks for a brief loss of power (it uses a capacitor to keep it’s MCU “clock” running for a few seconds) to recognize when to change brightness levels. So it is two completely different things.
So could the 555 timer circuit be added to a cut pin 5 trace for variable brightness or does it not apply to this circuit.
I think you have a little more electronics back ground than me, that’s the reason for asking.
This is what I had in mind, and also would like to know if it’s possible with this driver.
Can the H1-A be modded to add a remote pot for dimming?
A potentiometer is like a variable resistor. The firmware in that driver looks for a brief loss of power (it uses a capacitor to keep it’s MCU “clock” running for a few seconds) to recognize when to change brightness levels. So it is two completely different things.
So could the 555 timer circuit be added to a cut pin 5 trace for variable brightness or does it not apply to this circuit.
I think you have a little more electronics back ground than me, that’s the reason for asking.
I really don’t have much of an electronics background. I know a little about FET drivers, but just the basics of Boost and Buck
I know some boost drivers are designed to accept pots to control them (like this one), but the HA1 is not one of those. I believe your talking about cutting the PWM output trace to the OPA333 and adding a new opamp that can be controlled by a potentiometer. Maybe it can work? It is beyond my knowledge.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Such dimming would be very helpful for my application. The H1-A fills a huge void for when having to operate 6v LED with 1S batteries. There are few to no other options.
My application is a bike light, specifically a IQ-XE light. The unique efficient design has the best cutoff for no glare onto oncoming traffic without losing lumen. But the design requires the use of a double LED encased in series in one tiny unit (OSLON Black Flat KW H2L531.TE) nominal 6V, 1.5A peak, and this light operates at 0.9A max.
The driver in this light is inefficient and could use a boost in output. It also requires 12v input and I want to stick with 1S batteries without having to deal with balancing. So I gutted it and added the H1-A driver. I modded the H1-A to operate at 1.2A and I got much more output at the same net energy consumption at the battery, and with 1S. So I was very happy, until my shoddy soldering work failed. So I’m attempting it again with another H1-A.
My application doesn’t require the driver to fit within any confined space, but it does need to be lightweight, and the H1-A is perfect. It would be nice to explore dimming options with a potentiometer (555 timer?). I came across another driver I’m curious about which seems to operate on the same principles as the H1-A, using a XL6003 IC. The particular driver doesn’t have dimming but the IC supports it. I don’t know enough to know how the design compares to the H1-A.
I just saw you link to the hyperboost driver. That just might be the ticket. I’d have to give up on 1S for that driver and go with 3S. I’m considering it.
We are still a ways off from having universal boost drivers that can run NarsilM or Anduril or just an E-switch in general. You will also loose the charging.
The few universal boost drivers out there are limited to whatever brightness levels and UI it comes with. I am still waiting for better drivers.
Thanks. Don’t mind loosing charging but the UI is a pass for me too. What’s the sticking point for those working on making them? To a complete layman? Keeping the voltage boosted while all the possible clicks/outcomes?
Part of it is building the driver to give high output, without burning the pcb traces. Plus you have to address any ripples or surges in the circuit. Test, redesign, test, redesign until it works smoothly with no weird hiccups. Then when that it done you need a computer programmer to adapt an existing UI to work with the boost controller. Toykeeper told me she helped Lexel get NarsilM working with his boost driver design about 12 months ago, but he still hasn’t released anything yet.
These 2 guys, Lexel and Richard at MTN E, are basically designing and testing these drivers in their spare time from home while filling orders of existing drivers, working with OEM’s (Lexel) and running a store (Richard). Their current work is what pays the bills. Designing a whole new type of driver (Boost) is costing them time and money from their own pockets, so their progress is slow. I thought Lexel was close to releasing his about 18 months ago, but nope.
The particular light I was wanting to build was to convert my Supfire L5-S from FET to Boost to limit output on Turbo and switch from 2 × 26350 cells to a single 26650. I bought a new host and everything and it’s been collecting dust for 18 months. Luckily Sofirn released their version 2 of the SP33. It is a sweet boost driver light that has filled the role of the L5-S, so I’m no longer in a rush for a boost driver. I’m just chillen. They will come out when they come out.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
And here’s another energy harvesting driver which will run an LED off of body heat via a Thermoelectric Peltier or TEG, only 25mV required! The resistor and capacitor in center can have two different value pairs, depending on the design revision. The caps with question marks need to be pulled off the board and measured out of circuit. They’re 0402 parts! You can buy the PCB for only $12 from the usual electronics component distributors.
Hi, please do not post embedded images, as they cause server load issues. All of the ones in this thread were just removed. Thanks.
Budget Light Forum ...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
What is considered an embedded image in this context?
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Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
- Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
<img src="data:image/png;base64,..." alt="Base64 encoded image"/>Budget Light Forum ...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
Quick question fellows, does anyone knows which type of reverse polarity protection MOSFET the H1-A driver employs? It's the small 3 pin thing at the board backside, just g00gl€d the markings but no hits. The usage of such small MOSFET is also a tad strange to me, it totally looks inadequate given the amount of input current it should handle.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
- Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
Isn’t that the LDO?
Jensen567 commented something concerning reverse polarity protection in the past, now I can see it is present in the H2-C driver but not in the H1-A:
H2-C diagram
H1-A diagram
Came here with this tune in mind because a ForoLinternas fellow recently reported their H1-A driver blowing up because he tried to make it work with a cell in the wrong way. Aaaah! I understand now, master kikkoman.
Cheers
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
- Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
Just tried to resister mod the h2-c driver from KD. It’s is now garbage, stuck on low power blinky mode. The driver also uses an different layout (compared to the pictures in the convoy L2/l6 mod thread ). The sense resistor on my version also had an r50 instead of the r100.
The sense resistor was never an R100 in the H2-C Hellie112. Jensen567's early unit had two R100 resistors stacked, that equals 50mΩ (=R050).
Carefully check what you did to the sense resistor or other parts of the layout. “Low power blinky mode” looks to be low battery warning. If you have increased the power output and are using just 1 cell as input bear in mind other parts in the circuit causing voltage drops need to be optimized, this means good switch and well done spring bypasses or high current springs (you should optimize the current path anyway). Maybe you went overboard reducing the sense resistor.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
- Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
I didn’t had much time this afternoon. Guess never mod when you are in a hurry
But a trace on the backside (close to the spring) was completely burned. Did a bypass but now the driver pulls 10 amps (at the battery).. no change in output when changing modes. But I still got the flashing mode..
I have a KX70 driver that has been modified exactly as Jensen567 had detailed, putting on a 2.8V LDO, moving the cap, with .01875 sense resistor. Everything seems to be working, except for one thing. The driver doesn’t fully turn off. The momentary goes through the modes using 1 press per switch, and it doesn’t seem to cycle off, so I hold to momentary down, and it seems to turn off, except the led (XHP70.2) is slightly lit, almost like a moonlight mode. Is there anything I’m missing?
Just ordered a new h2c driver.
But I got a quick question. Is this the sense resister?
Yes.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
- Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
FYI, just ordered a few recently and seems like small revisions. Old on the left (few months ago), new on the right.
Looks like an H1-A with downgraded inductor (?). I wonder how much of an actual impact that has when increasing the current/power output near the TPS61088's integrated switch current limit (10A). Thumbs down
of course.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
- Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
Yeah, I wasn’t sure either, was hoping someone here could tell better than I could. Haven’t dropped it into a light yet.
Can the H1-A be modded to add a remote pot for dimming?
Hopefully this thread is okay to cross post this question.
From FT03 thread. “ “Is there a driver swap you can do that has a v booster?”
It list a ‘Texas Avenger FET Driver with charging’ as a driver. I basically wanted it to run like the FT02 did if possible.
We are still a ways off from having universal boost drivers that can run NarsilM or Anduril or just an E-switch in general. You will also loose the charging.
The few universal boost drivers out there are limited to whatever brightness levels and UI it comes with. I am still waiting for better drivers.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Universal? What do you mean by universal? For universal things to exist as a rule most people would need to develop its consciousness and themselves a good deal more.
NarsilM? Anduril? What gives? I Hi-Lo-Strobe
LoL.
In all honesty, using fantasy names for microcontroller software may sound compelling for the freaks. For people outside of these circles, definitively not. I've been around here for some time already and I've never used a torch with software of that class, for example.
I would choose a descriptive term. For example, Advanced Multifunction Flashlight Firmware vX.Y.
Of course I have to admit NarsilM or Anduril are terms which completely fail to inspire me. I prefer DynamiteBundle or BonnyC4Piece instead.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
- Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
I mean like the same driver design available in a variety of sizes like 17mm, 19mm, 20mm, 22mm, 26mm, 30mm, 46mm. Maybe the bigger drivers have more power, but the basically the same design.
This is what MTN E and Lexel are working on. A good boost driver design that can be made in multiple sizes using an e-switch and some nice ramping firmware. Lexel is working on Anduril and NarsilM while MTN E uses RampingIOS.
MTN E has released a few sizes of his boost driver, 17mm, 20mm and 22mm, but they are not ready for e-switch, yet. Lexel has not released any of his yet.
I am not interested in tail clicky, Hi, Med, Low designs.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
A potentiometer is like a variable resistor. The firmware in that driver looks for a brief loss of power (it uses a capacitor to keep it’s MCU “clock” running for a few seconds) to recognize when to change brightness levels. So it is two completely different things.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I can’t say for sure as I haven’t tried it but adding a pot would probably have to be done using a PWM circuit controlled by a pot.
I have used this simple 555 timer circuit a few times to add pot controlled PWM to circuits that accept pwm input.
https://circuitdigest.com/electronic-circuits/555-timer-pwm-generator-ci...
On the H1-A, cutting the trace from the PWM output at pin 5 on the MCU and adding the circuit above with the pot controlled pwm output tied to the the cut trace might work. At least that’s how I would try to make it work.
V11R and V10R Current Mod
So could the 555 timer circuit be added to a cut pin 5 trace for variable brightness or does it not apply to this circuit.
I think you have a little more electronics back ground than me, that’s the reason for asking.
V11R and V10R Current Mod
Thanks. Don’t mind loosing charging but the UI is a pass for me too. What’s the sticking point for those working on making them? To a complete layman? Keeping the voltage boosted while all the possible clicks/outcomes?
This is what I had in mind, and also would like to know if it’s possible with this driver.
I really don’t have much of an electronics background. I know a little about FET drivers, but just the basics of Boost and Buck
I know some boost drivers are designed to accept pots to control them (like this one), but the HA1 is not one of those. I believe your talking about cutting the PWM output trace to the OPA333 and adding a new opamp that can be controlled by a potentiometer. Maybe it can work? It is beyond my knowledge.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Such dimming would be very helpful for my application. The H1-A fills a huge void for when having to operate 6v LED with 1S batteries. There are few to no other options.
My application is a bike light, specifically a IQ-XE light. The unique efficient design has the best cutoff for no glare onto oncoming traffic without losing lumen. But the design requires the use of a double LED encased in series in one tiny unit (OSLON Black Flat KW H2L531.TE) nominal 6V, 1.5A peak, and this light operates at 0.9A max.
The driver in this light is inefficient and could use a boost in output. It also requires 12v input and I want to stick with 1S batteries without having to deal with balancing. So I gutted it and added the H1-A driver. I modded the H1-A to operate at 1.2A and I got much more output at the same net energy consumption at the battery, and with 1S. So I was very happy, until my shoddy soldering work failed. So I’m attempting it again with another H1-A.
My application doesn’t require the driver to fit within any confined space, but it does need to be lightweight, and the H1-A is perfect. It would be nice to explore dimming options with a potentiometer (555 timer?). I came across another driver I’m curious about which seems to operate on the same principles as the H1-A, using a XL6003 IC. The particular driver doesn’t have dimming but the IC supports it. I don’t know enough to know how the design compares to the H1-A.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918936790.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0...
I just saw you link to the hyperboost driver. That just might be the ticket. I’d have to give up on 1S for that driver and go with 3S. I’m considering it.
Edit: hyperboost won’t work with less than 8V.
Part of it is building the driver to give high output, without burning the pcb traces. Plus you have to address any ripples or surges in the circuit. Test, redesign, test, redesign until it works smoothly with no weird hiccups. Then when that it done you need a computer programmer to adapt an existing UI to work with the boost controller. Toykeeper told me she helped Lexel get NarsilM working with his boost driver design about 12 months ago, but he still hasn’t released anything yet.
These 2 guys, Lexel and Richard at MTN E, are basically designing and testing these drivers in their spare time from home while filling orders of existing drivers, working with OEM’s (Lexel) and running a store (Richard). Their current work is what pays the bills. Designing a whole new type of driver (Boost) is costing them time and money from their own pockets, so their progress is slow. I thought Lexel was close to releasing his about 18 months ago, but nope.
The particular light I was wanting to build was to convert my Supfire L5-S from FET to Boost to limit output on Turbo and switch from 2 × 26350 cells to a single 26650. I bought a new host and everything and it’s been collecting dust for 18 months. Luckily Sofirn released their version 2 of the SP33. It is a sweet boost driver light that has filled the role of the L5-S, so I’m no longer in a rush for a boost driver. I’m just chillen. They will come out when they come out.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
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