[Oshpark] HQ ProgKey - Universal Driver Programming Key

123 posts / 0 new
Last post
moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 hours 56 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3784
Location: North Carolina

@contractor
You could also use any of the break away or loose 2.54mm header pins soldered to the key and wire straight to it like I did with the loneoceans key.
https://www.pololu.com/product/965 They can be found in alot of different places online.
.

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 30 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3656
Location: US
moderator007 wrote:
@contractor You could also use any of the break away or loose 2.54mm header pins soldered to the key and wire straight to it like I did with the loneoceans key. https://www.pololu.com/product/965 They can be found in alot of different places on line. . !{width:50%}[img]https://i.imgur.com/kpa95Rm.jpg[/img]!

Thanks I bet I could snip the ones I got shorter if the pads line up right. I got extras. If not I guess the wires may help with the flexing.

On a related note, DigiKey has outdone themselves and they are now competing with Arrow packaging (RIP Free Shipping).

FW3A for scale.

Why such a big box you ask? To protect the 4 feet of heatshrink tube of course. Other items included a few LEDs, resistors, and those jumpers. Facepalm

Joshk
Joshk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 09/09/2015 - 12:12
Posts: 2719
Location: USA
contactcr wrote:
Why such a big box you ask? To protect the 4 feet of heatshrink tube of course. Other items included a few LEDs, resistors, and those jumpers. Facepalm

Yea Mouser has been doing that too for years… I think they are concerned you will call it ‘damaged’ if it arrives kinked.
The “fix” is to include a note on the order that says “Please fold the heat-shrink to reduce shipping costs.” That has been working for me.

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 30 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3656
Location: US

I mean what do they do with their extension cords and garden hoses and rope…

Mike C
Mike C's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 45 min ago
Joined: 01/22/2014 - 08:03
Posts: 2606
Location: Sweden

contactcr wrote:
Why such a big box you ask? To protect the 4 feet of heatshrink tube of course.

Couldn’t they role it? Shouldn’t make any creases if they just made a little role of it. That’s just insane.
d_t_a
Offline
Last seen: 15 hours 1 min ago
Joined: 08/04/2017 - 23:58
Posts: 2664
Location: Manila, Philippines

I’m interested in this HQ Progkey, but when I inquired in the website, I didn’t get a response.

I’m wondering if they ship to my country, and how much might be the shipping cost.

Joshk
Joshk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 09/09/2015 - 12:12
Posts: 2719
Location: USA

Check these out. I actually had this exact idea for edge mounting the connector a month ago and even ordered parts to build one. Now a more intense Google search shows the exact idea already exists.


Alternative image:
https://www.tindie.com/products/pnoxi/avr-isp-pogo-pin-adapter-2×5-idc2×3-pogo-127mm/

fluke
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 04/20/2018 - 13:58
Posts: 511
Location: London United Kingdom

Thank you ordered a couple. 

Joshk
Joshk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 09/09/2015 - 12:12
Posts: 2719
Location: USA
fluke wrote:

Thank you ordered a couple. 

Oh, ok. What pitch did you order?
My link was to the 2.54mm pitch version just for a visual.
I updated my link to the 1.27mm pitch version in-case anyone else orders from it.

fluke
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 04/20/2018 - 13:58
Posts: 511
Location: London United Kingdom

 One of each thank you.

f0xx
f0xx's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 4 days ago
Joined: 02/27/2019 - 18:44
Posts: 454
Location: Near Dallas, Texas

I missed it if it is in this thread, but how possible is it to attach the pogo pins with a soldering iron? I don’t have a “reflow station” so to speak, so I have been doing most of my soldering with an iron and have been reflowing my emitters with a torch. I am waiting on OSH Park right now, and have been thinking about how difficult it might be to get 6-8 pins soldered on to this tiny board.

Am I right to worry or is it easier than it looks?

Any tips?

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 30 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3656
Location: US

I was planning to reflow one side on the stove top then maybe try to kapton tape it down and do the other side. If that doesn’t work i’ll probably try an iron on the 2nd side to get it aligned properly. not sure.

I may try to use my lead free solder on the first side then use leaded solder on the flip side to help keep side #1 in place.

f0xx
f0xx's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 4 days ago
Joined: 02/27/2019 - 18:44
Posts: 454
Location: Near Dallas, Texas

contactcr wrote:
I was planning to reflow one side on the stove top then maybe try to kapton tape it down and do the other side. If that doesn’t work i’ll probably try an iron on the 2nd side to get it aligned properly. not sure.

I may try to use my lead free solder on the first side then use leaded solder on the flip side to help keep side #1 in place.

That sounds reasonable. Thank you for the tips!

Joshk
Joshk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 09/09/2015 - 12:12
Posts: 2719
Location: USA

Maybe you could solder both sides at once with the edge of one of these? Maybe two at a time so each unit acts like a spacer for the other side.

f0xx
f0xx's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 4 days ago
Joined: 02/27/2019 - 18:44
Posts: 454
Location: Near Dallas, Texas
Joshk wrote:
Maybe you could solder both sides at once with the edge of one of these? Maybe two at a time so each unit acts like a spacer for the other side. !https://www.dropbox.com/s/eejtd4c5×4ooedm/clamp.jpg?raw=1!

Excellent!

id30209
id30209's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 56 min ago
Joined: 05/17/2018 - 12:20
Posts: 2112
Location: Croatia

Sweet f0xx

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

trailhunter
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 1 week ago
Joined: 12/23/2015 - 17:56
Posts: 781
Location: Mars

Hi, I need a pogo adapter to flash d4v2’s. Who can I ask to place an order?

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 30 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3656
Location: US

Hank from Emisar will sell them soon. These are just parts you have to assemble.

trailhunter
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 1 week ago
Joined: 12/23/2015 - 17:56
Posts: 781
Location: Mars
contactcr wrote:
Hank from Emisar will sell them soon. These are just parts you have to assemble.

Ahh ok. So just defer to first page to find the source for all the parts?

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 30 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3656
Location: US
trailhunter wrote:
contactcr wrote:
Hank from Emisar will sell them soon. These are just parts you have to assemble.

Ahh ok. So just defer to first page to find the source for all the parts?

That’s one option. If you order from Oshpark be sure to get the 2oz board. Pins can be found on Amazon too.

trailhunter
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 1 week ago
Joined: 12/23/2015 - 17:56
Posts: 781
Location: Mars

Awesome, thank you.

icpart
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 7 hours ago
Joined: 04/15/2019 - 01:13
Posts: 463
Location: Bulgaria

Hi. I ordered today from OSHPARK these HQ ProgKey but after I read last post I realized I made a mistake in the order. I ordered 1.6mm version. If any of you has assembled this board, can you tell me if this will be a problem if I can used with bent of pogo pins?

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 30 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3656
Location: US

So I put it together and got it working. I nuked one with too much heat trying to re-flow on the stove (it might be salvageable but I doubt it).

What I ended up doing:

  • Tin each of the two parallel strips one at time with lead free solder. Basically hold your iron on the strip for a few seconds then put solder on the iron tip and drag it down to spread it
  • With all strips on one side tinned, grab a pin with tweezers and dip it into flux paste (the gooey kind) and line them up on the strip
  • I ended up putting this side on the stove and “re-flowing” it, adjusting the ends with tweezers as needed to stay aligned
  • Next, I kapton taped the pins and wrapped it around the wire holes on both sides leaving the second side pins clear
  • On the opposite side pins I tinned them with leaded solder (63/37) and did the same method with the flux paste
  • Instead of trying to re-flow again I ended up using a hot air gun on the lowest air setting and 410 degrees adjusting with tweezers as needed

edit:

Added a few pics of the pin soldering, i’m sure someone can come up with better ways but it’s what I did..

lead free reflow on stove, kapton taping those in place

lightly tin other side with leaded solder, flux paste on pins to hold them while doing hot air

f0xx
f0xx's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 4 days ago
Joined: 02/27/2019 - 18:44
Posts: 454
Location: Near Dallas, Texas

Thanks contactcr!

This will prove helpful when I finally get my key pcbs. I just got some beautiful ones today in the wrong thickness (due to my thickness).. I think the correct ones have been sent to fab, so it will be soon.

JackJax
JackJax's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 3 months ago
Joined: 12/29/2017 - 13:43
Posts: 51
Location: United States

Just got my Oshpark boards and soldered everything. Thank you contactcr. Your tips were invaluable.

WTF
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 6 days ago
Joined: 03/05/2017 - 20:13
Posts: 318

I just solder paste and hot air both sides. My pins are longer so I use a second board to support them. A lot of my pins are slightly bent and need to be poked into alignment, the straight ones self align pretty good.

To do the second side I lay a spare pogo pin sideways under the board to keep it level.

I solder it on a piece of metal or on my heat sink. The bottom pins being in contact with metal suck the heat out of that side of the board faster than it can get through the fiberglass. It would be pretty hard to get the solder to melt on the bottom side, even if it did as long as the board is sitting level there is no reason for anything to move.

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 30 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3656
Location: US

Just FYI Emisar is now selling their own kit already made and it’s up on their site

prototype3a
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 days ago
Joined: 12/19/2018 - 20:06
Posts: 349
Location: Christiansburg, VA

I could really use one of these breakout boards for pogos with 1.5mm spacing.

SammysHP
SammysHP's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 16 min ago
Joined: 06/25/2019 - 14:35
Posts: 1123
Location: Germany

If you don’t want to wait… just DIY!

Definitely not as nice as the PCB version and it took me an hour to assemble it, but made it with parts I had at home and it works.

  • Print out template with correct pin spacing (see second post in this thread).
  • Glue print onto a piece of plastic.
  • Use a hot needle to make the holes. Make sure to use a needle with the same diameter as the pogo pins.
  • Cut out the plastic spacers.
  • Solder wires to the end of the pogo pins.
  • Insert pogo pins into the holes of the (two in my case) spacers.
  • Use hot glue and heat-shrink tubing to keep it all together. I started by applying hot glue to the solder connections, pogo pins and parts of the cable. When it’s cold put on the heat-shrink tubing and shrink/melt everything.
  • Same on the other side with a 3×2 pin header
Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 11 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 15042
Location: LI NY

I finally got around to building 1-2 up. Got two reflowed with the pins, one is fully assembled with a USBASP, looks very much like contactcr's above. I applied a good clear epoxy over the pins just to be sure. For me all I used was the hot air gun - did one side first, then the other, no kapton tape. Ended up replacing one pin though cause it was slightly bent to begin with and then after soldering, the pin would stick a little, then pop up -- it had to go. Again, used the hot air gun, added a little more solder paste, and it turned out well.

It worked first shot flashing Anduril2 on a FF E01. Tried the E07 but not working, then searched BLF and found AUX LED power must be removed (frown) - not a good design...

Tried the PL47 but the with the rt. angle posts coming off the HQ key PCB, I can't get it all the way down to the driver (frown).

The checked my ROT66 - no flash pins o the driver (frown).

Ok, I gotta look for more lights I can flash with it. I already bought the pogo pin flash programmer from Hank for the Emisars and Noctigons.

Pages