It is not monochrome, it has a wide spectrum, because its light is phosphor converted from a deep blue base emitter. Almost all deep blue is gone, and what you get is slight green and a fair amount of red/deep red as well, besides the dominant wavelengths.
Thanks guys for quick jump in. I’m not good at reading specs, so your rescue was right in time.
But I should have studied the picture better.
Anyway, the diode is in my shopping cart already.
I’m thinking of an anti – fog flashlight but I’d like to ask what do you think.
Which one can get through the fog better, monochrome 590nm or “composed” with dominant 590nm? I also have XP-E2 with monochrome 590nm….
Thanks guys for quick jump in. I’m not good at reading specs, so your rescue was right in time.
But I should have studied the picture better.
Anyway, the diode is in my shopping cart already.
I’m thinking of an anti – fog flashlight but I’d like to ask what do you think.
Which one can get through the fog better, monochrome 590nm or “composed” with dominant 590nm? I also have XP-E2 with monochrome 590nm….
I think, both of them will be similarly effective regarding fog penetration, but with the converted one, you will be able to see a few different colors as well, so overall, a bit more information, better detail recognition.
Looking at the spec sheet, this tint is not as powerful as the “pure green” variant (which is also a phosphor converted wider spectrum one), also, it starts to lose output, when being warmed up, so about 1.5A to 2.5A would be the best current for it to be driven with.
..I’m thinking of an anti – fog flashlight but I’d like to ask what do you think.
Which one can get through the fog better, monochrome 590nm or “composed” with dominant 590nm? I also have XP-E2 with monochrome 590nm….
What you comprehend as best thrower fog colour also can be explained by which colour is the easiest for the human eye to process. This also explains why car fog lights are yellow. They are not allowed to be red, green or blue, because of the traffic lights. And they don’t want all kinds of different fog light colours in the traffic like pink, cyan, violet, turquoise etc. Therefor the improvised standard for fog lights is yellow (3000K). So for a flashlight to be used as a fog light outside the traffic, red or green may still be the best, as these correspond to the red and green receptors in the eye.
..I’m thinking of an anti – fog flashlight but I’d like to ask what do you think.
Which one can get through the fog better, monochrome 590nm or “composed” with dominant 590nm? I also have XP-E2 with monochrome 590nm….
What you comprehend as best thrower fog colour also can be explained by which colour is the easiest for the human eye to process. This also explains why car fog lights are yellow. They are not allowed to be red, green or blue, because of the traffic lights. And they don’t want all kinds of different fog light colours in the traffic like pink, cyan, violet, turquoise etc. Therefor the improvised standard for fog lights is yellow (3000K). So for a flashlight to be used as a fog light outside the traffic, red or green may still be the best, as these correspond to the red and green receptors in the eye.
Hmmm. Interesting approach. I own a couple of red lights. I’ll buy, test with the other colors and let you know… Wow, red foggy light reminds me horror movies.
2.5A would be also a sweet spot for yellow also, not only the red Osram. Just for the yellow, spec sheet shows around 2.8-3.3V forward voltage depending on current.
Can this driver output this voltage, or it is only meant for 2.0-2.5V, as seen for the red emitter?
I just noticed Simon added S2+ body colors we haven’t seen before, deser tan, green, cyan...
Hm? I had my green S2+ for years, and got hosts and shorty-tubes in cyan (and orange and purple). Different shades, maybe? (I've been trying to avoid AX for a while...)
I thought same thing. Have seen cyan, blue, green , purple before. Maybe not desert though
Maybe it’s only me. Haven’t seen those options before
2.5A would be also a sweet spot for yellow also, not only the red Osram. Just for the yellow, spec sheet shows around 2.8-3.3V forward voltage depending on current.
Can this driver output this voltage, or it is only meant for 2.0-2.5V, as seen for the red emitter?
The voltage of the yellow light monochromatic light chip is the same as the red light, but this yellow light is a mixed light of blue and yellow light, not pure yellow light. The chip it uses is still a blue light chip, so the voltage is still 3.0-3.6V
2.5A would be also a sweet spot for yellow also, not only the red Osram. Just for the yellow, spec sheet shows around 2.8-3.3V forward voltage depending on current.
Can this driver output this voltage, or it is only meant for 2.0-2.5V, as seen for the red emitter?
The voltage of the yellow light monochromatic light chip is the same as the red light, but this yellow light is a mixed light of blue and yellow light, not pure yellow light. The chip it uses is still a blue light chip, so the voltage is still 3.0-3.6V
Will the KY CSLNM1.FY be available in a S2+ ? I assume it will be with a 3175x driver due to the max 3A handling of the LED?
Also do I understand from the datasheet it doesn’t like more than 3v which may be the delay as it requires a step down driver or something?
The highlighted color bin on your pic is U2, but the bin offered by Convoy is U6. getting those -0.0030 -0.0060 Duv bins (like U2) would be amazing but it’s possible they don’t even exist.
As for driving those LEDs, no difference with other 90CRI LH351D, max rating of 3A but can be driven without issue to 5A, linear drivers adjust voltage ( which is higher than 3V above 1.2~1.4A ) to get the desired current.
2.5A would be also a sweet spot for yellow also, not only the red Osram. Just for the yellow, spec sheet shows around 2.8-3.3V forward voltage depending on current.
Can this driver output this voltage, or it is only meant for 2.0-2.5V, as seen for the red emitter? …
I see no reason for such driver not to be able to output regulated voltage and current (almost) up to battery voltage, as any other buck drivers. These are built the same way, only the inductor may be tuned to handle slightly more voltage difference (higher Vin to Vout with higher inductance value). So, I am fairly sure that such driver can be used with a higher voltage emitter.
Report here if you try.
—
Deleting a post and redoing it causes the forum thread answer notifications to become invalid. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim the quote down to the essential. Helps with forum neatness and legibility. Thanks.
Localized AliExpress links mess up with the language setting of whoever clicks or taps on them. While this is a fault of the AliExpress system, turning localized links into global links helps and is easy; just change the locale letters in the url for www. Example:
I see no reason for such driver not to be able to output regulated voltage and current (almost) up to battery voltage, as any other buck drivers. These are built the same way, only the inductor may be tuned to handle slightly more voltage difference (higher Vin to Vout with higher inductance value). So, I am fairly sure that such driver can be used with a higher voltage emitter.
Report here if you try.
Ah, I guessed (or at least hoped) so, I just wanted somebody to confirm this
Anyway, I looked at the available modes of that driver, and maybe it is not best for me.
I started to consider this FY emitter as a good candidate for biking light (easy for the eye, not white, but still many colours - also, not exactly the tint called cadmium yellow, but not far from that), so I postpone my initial idea of using it in a C8+, and probably, I'll go for an S2+ build with the 7 mode driver (10%-20%-30%-40%-60%-80%-100%), that is the most close to what I generally want to use. Maybe I'll add one or two extra 7135 chip on it to make it 1.4A or 1.75A, but not more. I didn't bother programming a driver for my desired output ranges yet. It has medium frequency PWM (I saw 700Hz+ in a review), but it is not like the cheapest drivers and it is not noticeable, except in extreme unfavourable conditions.
The highlighted color bin on your pic is U2, but the bin offered by Convoy is U6. getting those -0.0030 -0.0060 Duv bins (like U2) would be amazing but it’s possible they don’t even exist.
As for driving those LEDs, no difference with other 90CRI LH351D, max rating of 3A but can be driven without issue to 5A, linear drivers adjust voltage ( which is higher than 3V above 1.2~1.4A ) to get the desired current.
Ok cool thanks, I interpreted the BIN wrong F2*U6*P2.
—
- the best way to predict the future is to create it -
2.5A would be also a sweet spot for yellow also, not only the red Osram. Just for the yellow, spec sheet shows around 2.8-3.3V forward voltage depending on current.
Can this driver output this voltage, or it is only meant for 2.0-2.5V, as seen for the red emitter?
The voltage of the yellow light monochromatic light chip is the same as the red light, but this yellow light is a mixed light of blue and yellow light, not pure yellow light. The chip it uses is still a blue light chip, so the voltage is still 3.0-3.6V
Will the KY CSLNM1.FY be available in a S2+ ? I assume it will be with a 3175x driver due to the max 3A handling of the LED?
..I'm thinking of an anti - fog flashlight but I'd like to ask what do you think. Which one can get through the fog better, monochrome 590nm or "composed" with dominant 590nm? I also have XP-E2 with monochrome 590nm....
…
…
Mmm, sorry if late to the party but, how about using a (high CRI) “warm” white emitter? 2700K SST-20 or 2700K LH351D, for example.
—
Deleting a post and redoing it causes the forum thread answer notifications to become invalid. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim the quote down to the essential. Helps with forum neatness and legibility. Thanks.
Localized AliExpress links mess up with the language setting of whoever clicks or taps on them. While this is a fault of the AliExpress system, turning localized links into global links helps and is easy; just change the locale letters in the url for www. Example:
Thanks
[WTS] HID host: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68693
[WTB] Interesting LEDs:http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68968
Just look it up in the specs document:
https://dammedia.osram.info/media/resource/hires/osram-dam-15011579/KY%2...
See page 8 and there you go.
It is not monochrome, it has a wide spectrum, because its light is phosphor converted from a deep blue base emitter. Almost all deep blue is gone, and what you get is slight green and a fair amount of red/deep red as well, besides the dominant wavelengths.
Thanks guys for quick jump in. I’m not good at reading specs, so your rescue was right in time.
But I should have studied the picture better.
Anyway, the diode is in my shopping cart already.
I’m thinking of an anti – fog flashlight but I’d like to ask what do you think.
Which one can get through the fog better, monochrome 590nm or “composed” with dominant 590nm? I also have XP-E2 with monochrome 590nm….
[WTS] HID host: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68693
[WTB] Interesting LEDs:http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68968
I just noticed Simon added S2+ body colors we haven’t seen before, deser tan, green, cyan...
Maaaan, one of the few good things in this crapy year is Convoy store for sure.
Well done Simon!
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
I think, both of them will be similarly effective regarding fog penetration, but with the converted one, you will be able to see a few different colors as well, so overall, a bit more information, better detail recognition.
Looking at the spec sheet, this tint is not as powerful as the “pure green” variant (which is also a phosphor converted wider spectrum one), also, it starts to lose output, when being warmed up, so about 1.5A to 2.5A would be the best current for it to be driven with.
Thanks, useful hints. I’m planning a small backup light, so amperage is fine.
[WTS] HID host: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68693
[WTB] Interesting LEDs:http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68968
What you comprehend as best thrower fog colour also can be explained by which colour is the easiest for the human eye to process. This also explains why car fog lights are yellow. They are not allowed to be red, green or blue, because of the traffic lights. And they don’t want all kinds of different fog light colours in the traffic like pink, cyan, violet, turquoise etc. Therefor the improvised standard for fog lights is yellow (3000K). So for a flashlight to be used as a fog light outside the traffic, red or green may still be the best, as these correspond to the red and green receptors in the eye.
Hm? I had my green S2+ for years, and got hosts and shorty-tubes in cyan (and orange and purple).
Different shades, maybe?
(I’ve been trying to avoid AX for a while…)
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
I thought same thing. Have seen cyan, blue, green , purple before. Maybe not desert though
Hmmm. Interesting approach. I own a couple of red lights. I’ll buy, test with the other colors and let you know… Wow, red foggy light reminds me horror movies.
[WTS] HID host: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68693
[WTB] Interesting LEDs:http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68968
Hello Simon,
I saw this driver, and I wonder, if it could be usable with the Osram KY CSLNM1.FY yellow LED: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001619557257.html
2.5A would be also a sweet spot for yellow also, not only the red Osram. Just for the yellow, spec sheet shows around 2.8-3.3V forward voltage depending on current.
Can this driver output this voltage, or it is only meant for 2.0-2.5V, as seen for the red emitter?
If suitable, could you please add red and yellow emitter choice for Convoy C8+?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001619537593.html
Where do you see the NEW S2) colors? Do they still “lego” with OLDER S2 or they have the “NEW threads”
The desert tan version was huge back in the day
My reviews:
Thorfire C8s , Thorfire VG-10 , Sipik SK68 , Duracell 350 , Big L@rry , Mystery AAA
Good range of new emitters. Hope the warm LH351Ds end up in stock lights soon.
Recent Reviews: Light Flashlight Painting Buying Guide 2020 // LumeCube 2.0 // Lumintop FW1A // Light Painting Paradise Lightpainter // KDLITKER E6
Affiliate links: Neal's Gadgets
Instagram: @stephenk_lightart
Maybe it’s only me. Haven’t seen those options before
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
The 3500k looks really interesting, if I read the BIN correctly it looks like a good colour.
Also do I understand from the datasheet it doesn’t like more than 3v which may be the delay as it requires a step down driver or something?
- the best way to predict the future is to create it -
The voltage of the yellow light monochromatic light chip is the same as the red light, but this yellow light is a mixed light of blue and yellow light, not pure yellow light. The chip it uses is still a blue light chip, so the voltage is still 3.0-3.6V
Recent Reviews: Light Flashlight Painting Buying Guide 2020 // LumeCube 2.0 // Lumintop FW1A // Light Painting Paradise Lightpainter // KDLITKER E6
Affiliate links: Neal's Gadgets
Instagram: @stephenk_lightart
The highlighted color bin on your pic is U2, but the bin offered by Convoy is U6. getting those -0.0030 -0.0060 Duv bins (like U2) would be amazing but it’s possible they don’t even exist.
As for driving those LEDs, no difference with other 90CRI LH351D, max rating of 3A but can be driven without issue to 5A, linear drivers adjust voltage ( which is higher than 3V above 1.2~1.4A ) to get the desired current.
I see no reason for such driver not to be able to output regulated voltage and current (almost) up to battery voltage, as any other buck drivers. These are built the same way, only the inductor may be tuned to handle slightly more voltage difference (higher Vin to Vout with higher inductance value). So, I am fairly sure that such driver can be used with a higher voltage emitter.
Report here if you try.
Deleting a post and redoing it causes the forum thread answer notifications to become invalid. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim the quote down to the essential. Helps with forum neatness and legibility. Thanks.
Localized AliExpress links mess up with the language setting of whoever clicks or taps on them. While this is a fault of the AliExpress system, turning localized links into global links helps and is easy; just change the locale letters in the url for www. Example:
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/bla-bla-bla.html turns into https://www.aliexpress.com/item/bla-bla-bla.html.
Ah, I guessed (or at least hoped) so, I just wanted somebody to confirm this
Anyway, I looked at the available modes of that driver, and maybe it is not best for me.
I started to consider this FY emitter as a good candidate for biking light (easy for the eye, not white, but still many colours - also, not exactly the tint called cadmium yellow, but not far from that), so I postpone my initial idea of using it in a C8+, and probably, I'll go for an S2+ build with the 7 mode driver (10%-20%-30%-40%-60%-80%-100%), that is the most close to what I generally want to use. Maybe I'll add one or two extra 7135 chip on it to make it 1.4A or 1.75A, but not more. I didn't bother programming a driver for my desired output ranges yet. It has medium frequency PWM (I saw 700Hz+ in a review), but it is not like the cheapest drivers and it is not noticeable, except in extreme unfavourable conditions.
Ok cool thanks, I interpreted the BIN wrong F2*U6*P2.
- the best way to predict the future is to create it -
yes, it can be installed in S2+ with 7135 driver
Hello Simon.
Can you advise when will SBT90 flashlight will be approximately realised and its price?
I’m very sorry, I can’t provide a specific date.
Whenever it gets here, I can say pretty confidently this will be my first SBT90.2 light. Finally a form factor that makes sense for this emitter!
Have you seen the host/design? I would love to see it! I can’t wait to buy simons sbt90 light!
Heard it was going to be based on 4×18A, so 4×18650, single emitter design.
Much more reasonable than 1×21700 because the emitter can be driven with ~20A.
Mmm, sorry if late to the party but, how about using a (high CRI) “warm” white emitter? 2700K SST-20 or 2700K LH351D, for example.
Deleting a post and redoing it causes the forum thread answer notifications to become invalid. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim the quote down to the essential. Helps with forum neatness and legibility. Thanks.
Localized AliExpress links mess up with the language setting of whoever clicks or taps on them. While this is a fault of the AliExpress system, turning localized links into global links helps and is easy; just change the locale letters in the url for www. Example:
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/bla-bla-bla.html turns into https://www.aliexpress.com/item/bla-bla-bla.html.
That is what i was hoping Simon was going to do, i love my 21700 sbt90 lights, but a 4×18 would be much better! heat handling and power
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