KY CSLNM1.FY uses the same driver as RED Osram which means low Vf of 2.5V.
So my question still is: is 2.5V driver compatible with S2+?
KY CSLNM1.FY ,it’s not pure yellow light .
Like the green light, it uses the design of coating phosphor powder on the blue chip. I can actually think of it as a warm yellow light with a color temperature of 1800K.
the reflector of L21A lightweight version has the same style as C8 reflector , How about this?
No way, what I need to replace is this in a custom build:
Which as far as I know, is the same part as an L2 smooth reflector (with ∅9mm hole).
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the reflector of L21A lightweight version has the same style as C8 reflector , How about this?
No way, what I need to replace is this in a custom build:
Which as far as I know, is the same part as an L2 smooth reflector (with ∅9mm hole).
And the same as L21A.
I ordered one a few weeks ago, should be here soon.
I was a bit too enthusiastic with filing
you can order a L6 reflector and add a note L21A reflector.
Additionally to what has been pinpointed by Tom E (the “U” 4040 footprint is for both Boost HL and HX), concerning the color or output type note that those with a letter in their suffix are phosphor converted emitters with blue pump (white TG, yellow FY and pure green F1) whereas those with just numbers in their suffix are native pumped “monochromatic” light sources (blue 14, true green 13 and red 23).
—
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Esentially speaking 1mm is the sweet spot, with the highest intensity gains and the most consistent CCT and DUV vs angle results.
Just get some 1mm washer(s) or a feeler gauge set to aid you in guiding the razor blade.
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Just get some 1mm washer(s) or a feeler gauge set to aid you in guiding the razor blade.
Is the slicing height the distance between the PCB and the top of a washer sitting on it?
I.e. A recommended 1mm slicing height would simply be: place a “1mm thick washer” on the PCB around an LED and use it as a guide to slice the top of the dome off.
I only ask to rule out measuring from the top/square bit of the LED to the top of the dome.
Yes that is TimMc, place a 1mm thick washer around the emitter just over the MCPCB, and use it as a slicing guide. You remove most of the dome, but still leave a protective layer on the led. It should sort of look like an XP-L HI emitter.
—
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Rubber cap allows installation of a lighted tailcap.
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Hello Simon,
Since I modded my Z1 with a 4 LEDs 10W IR emitter … so now I’d like to “know” when it lighten up or turned off (without looking directly at the LEDs which emit a dim red when ON) : could it be possible to get a lighted switch that would fit the Z1?
Had to goggle the light to see a pic of the switch. Looks like the SS switch that comes on the colored-body S2+es.
There’s a translucent ring around the button that can leak out some light, so while it wouldn’t be bright, you could swap in a lighted-switch board underneath for a perfectly usable indicator ring.
Or drill out and rethread the hole to use the blue-lit rubber-capped switch (on the Convoy website).
Point being, don’t think there’s a lit SS switch that’d be a drop-in fit.
KY CSLNM1.FY ,it’s not pure yellow light .
Like the green light, it uses the design of coating phosphor powder on the blue chip. I can actually think of it as a warm yellow light with a color temperature of 1800K.
Recent Reviews: Light Flashlight Painting Buying Guide 2020 // LumeCube 2.0 // Lumintop FW1A // Light Painting Paradise Lightpainter // KDLITKER E6 // Sofirn SP31V2.0 // Convoy S2+
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Instagram: @stephenk_lightart
No way, what I need to replace is this in a custom build:
Which as far as I know, is the same part as an L2 smooth reflector (with ∅9mm hole).
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Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
S21A/B should be OK?
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
not suitable for S21A/B
it’s 17mm diameter
One problem in this chart - the U designation is for both the Boost HL and Boost HX
So I would change the text to: "Boost HL/HX"
With 20 to 17mm adapter?
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
And the same as L21A.
you can order a L6 reflector and add a note L21A reflector.
I ordered one a few weeks ago, should be here soon.
I was a bit too enthusiastic with filing
Well I am glad I have a spare S3 host lying around, but could you please note such unobvious limitations in the description of the items?
Additionally to what has been pinpointed by Tom E (the “U” 4040 footprint is for both Boost HL and HX), concerning the color or output type note that those with a letter in their suffix are phosphor converted emitters with blue pump (white TG, yellow FY and pure green F1) whereas those with just numbers in their suffix are native pumped “monochromatic” light sources (blue 14, true green 13 and red 23).
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Which of the current LH351D from Simon/Convoy to take now – 4000k vs 5000k?
I’m going to try S2+ with new 5A driver after calming comments, that it’s not going to melt.
It’s just a matter of personal preference. 4000K is more on the warm side. 5000K is considered to be neutral white. But both render colors very well.
[WTS] HID host: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68693
[WTB] Interesting LEDs:http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68968
I wanted to go 4000k (which I already did for my T2, on the way to me), until I read some stories about 4000k being too green.
I find the couple of 5000k I have to be more green than the 4000, but ymmv.
List of my reviews over at 1lumen.com
~~~~~~~~~
oweban.org
If you can do it, I’d recommend the 5000k then slice the dome off
No slicing for me
I don’t want to break it, immediatelly after getting.
But that’s the tinkerer’s way
List of my reviews over at 1lumen.com
~~~~~~~~~
oweban.org
What about 3500?
I keep hearing how 2700 is just beautiful, but didn’t hear much about 3500
My reviews:
Thorfire C8s , Thorfire VG-10 , Sipik SK68 , Duracell 350 , Big L@rry , Mystery AAA
“Is the tint ok?”
“Dunno. I swapped the emitter as soon as the flashlight arrived.”
thefreeman did a thorough study of the slicing effects in beam profile and intensity for the LH351D emitter:
LH351D slicing measurements : output, tint, tint shift, beam profile, intensity.
Esentially speaking 1mm is the sweet spot, with the highest intensity gains and the most consistent CCT and DUV vs angle results.
Just get some 1mm washer(s) or a feeler gauge set to aid you in guiding the razor blade.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Is the slicing height the distance between the PCB and the top of a washer sitting on it?
I.e. A recommended 1mm slicing height would simply be: place a “1mm thick washer” on the PCB around an LED and use it as a guide to slice the top of the dome off.
I only ask to rule out measuring from the top/square bit of the LED to the top of the dome.
Yes that is TimMc, place a 1mm thick washer around the emitter just over the MCPCB, and use it as a slicing guide. You remove most of the dome, but still leave a protective layer on the led. It should sort of look like an XP-L HI emitter.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Available @ Simon’s Ali store
[WTS] HID host: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68693
[WTB] Interesting LEDs:http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68968
Actually, I don’t see any point in S21A since S21B became available – it beats S21A in both looks and functionality.
Purchase is not obligatory. Buy what you like. But you would be surprised how well old models sell.
[WTS] HID host: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68693
[WTB] Interesting LEDs:http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68968
Clear switch cap would be better imo.
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Flashlights & edc gear
K40M F16
I'd say “just different”.
Rubber cap allows installation of a lighted tailcap.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Hello Simon,
Since I modded my Z1 with a 4 LEDs 10W IR emitter … so now I’d like to “know” when it lighten up or turned off (without looking directly at the LEDs which emit a dim red when ON) : could it be possible to get a lighted switch that would fit the Z1?
thank you
Had to goggle the light to see a pic of the switch. Looks like the SS switch that comes on the colored-body S2+es.
There’s a translucent ring around the button that can leak out some light, so while it wouldn’t be bright, you could swap in a lighted-switch board underneath for a perfectly usable indicator ring.
Or drill out and rethread the hole to use the blue-lit rubber-capped switch (on the Convoy website).
Point being, don’t think there’s a lit SS switch that’d be a drop-in fit.
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