【convoy】Sample L6 with GT 12V 4A 90CRI LED

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Simon Mao
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stephenk wrote:
Will there be a S2+ with KY CSLNM1.FY?
A temporary link.
Simon Mao
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id30209 wrote:

Gents, you haven’t done your homeork…


KY CSLNM1.FY uses the same driver as RED Osram which means low Vf of 2.5V.


So my question still is: is 2.5V driver compatible with S2+?

KY CSLNM1.FY ,it’s not pure yellow light .
Like the green light, it uses the design of coating phosphor powder on the blue chip. I can actually think of it as a warm yellow light with a color temperature of 1800K.

stephenk
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Simon Mao wrote:
stephenk wrote:
Will there be a S2+ with KY CSLNM1.FY?
A temporary link.
Thanks, just put in an order!
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Simon Mao wrote:
Barkuti wrote:

Simon,

Still looking for a replacement L2 reflector, with ∅9mm bottom hole and smooth.

the reflector of L21A lightweight version has the same style as C8 reflector , How about this?

No way, what I need to replace is this in a custom build:

 

 

Which as far as I know, is the same part as an L2 smooth reflector (with ∅9mm hole).

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id30209
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Simon Mao][quote=ferrat_val][quote=Simon Mao wrote:
it can be installed in S3 and C8, but S2+ is not suitable

 

S21A/B should be OK?

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

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id30209]<p>[quote=Simon Mao][quote=ferrat_val wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
it can be installed in S3 and C8, but S2+ is not suitable

 


S21A/B should be OK?

not suitable for S21A/B
it’s 17mm diameter

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oweban wrote:
Okay, updated. Happy to be corrected on U vs S.

  

One problem in this chart - the U designation is for both the Boost HL and Boost HX

So I would change the text to: "Boost HL/HX"

 

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Simon Mao wrote:
not suitable for S21A/B it's 17mm diameter

With 20 to 17mm adapter?

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

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Barkuti wrote:

Simon Mao wrote:
Barkuti wrote:

Simon,


Still looking for a replacement L2 reflector, with ∅9mm bottom hole and smooth.



the reflector of L21A lightweight version has the same style as C8 reflector , How about this?


No way, what I need to replace is this in a custom build:


 



 


Which as far as I know, is the same part as an L2 smooth reflector (with ∅9mm hole).

And the same as L21A.
I ordered one a few weeks ago, should be here soon.
I was a bit too enthusiastic with filing Facepalm you can order a L6 reflector and add a note L21A reflector.

WTB: Jetbeam TCR-1 or Sunwayman V10R Ti

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Simon Mao wrote:

it can be installed in S3 and C8,
but S2+ is not suitable

Well I am glad I have a spare S3 host lying around, but could you please note such unobvious limitations in the description of the items?
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oweban wrote:
Okay, updated. Happy to be corrected on U vs S.

  

Additionally to what has been pinpointed by Tom E (the “U” 4040 footprint is for both Boost HL and HX), concerning the color or output type note that those with a letter in their suffix are phosphor converted emitters with blue pump (white TG, yellow FY and pure green F1) whereas those with just numbers in their suffix are native pumped “monochromatic” light sources (blue 14, true green 13 and red 23).

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rms
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Which of the current LH351D from Simon/Convoy to take now – 4000k vs 5000k?

I’m going to try S2+ with new 5A driver after calming comments, that it’s not going to melt.

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rms wrote:
Which of the current LH351D from Simon/Convoy to take now – 4000k vs 5000k?

I’m going to try S2+ with new 5A driver after calming comments, that it’s not going to melt.

It’s just a matter of personal preference. 4000K is more on the warm side. 5000K is considered to be neutral white. But both render colors very well.

rms
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I wanted to go 4000k (which I already did for my T2, on the way to me), until I read some stories about 4000k being too green.

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I find the couple of 5000k I have to be more green than the 4000, but ymmv.

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If you can do it, I’d recommend the 5000k then slice the dome off

rms
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No slicing for me Smile
I don’t want to break it, immediatelly after getting.

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But that’s the tinkerer’s way

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What about 3500?

I keep hearing how 2700 is just beautiful, but didn’t hear much about 3500

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oweban wrote:
But that’s the tinkerer’s way

“Is the tint ok?”
“Dunno. I swapped the emitter as soon as the flashlight arrived.” Innocent

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thefreeman did a thorough study of the slicing effects in beam profile and intensity for the LH351D emitter:

LH351D slicing measurements : output, tint, tint shift, beam profile, intensity.

Esentially speaking 1mm is the sweet spot, with the highest intensity gains and the most consistent CCT and DUV vs angle results.

Just get some 1mm washer(s) or a feeler gauge set to aid you in guiding the razor blade.

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Barkuti wrote:

Just get some 1mm washer(s) or a feeler gauge set to aid you in guiding the razor blade.

Is the slicing height the distance between the PCB and the top of a washer sitting on it?

I.e. A recommended 1mm slicing height would simply be: place a “1mm thick washer” on the PCB around an LED and use it as a guide to slice the top of the dome off.

I only ask to rule out measuring from the top/square bit of the LED to the top of the dome. Grad

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Yes that is TimMc, place a 1mm thick washer around the emitter just over the MCPCB, and use it as a slicing guide. You remove most of the dome, but still leave a protective layer on the led. It should sort of look like an XP-L HI emitter.

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id30209 wrote:

Vietnamese FB group showed S21A colored…


Available @ Simon’s Ali store

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1stein wrote:
id30209 wrote:

Vietnamese FB group showed S21A colored…


Available @ Simon’s Ali store


Actually, I don’t see any point in S21A since S21B became available – it beats S21A in both looks and functionality.
1stein
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ferrat_val wrote:
1stein wrote:
id30209 wrote:

Vietnamese FB group showed S21A colored…


Available @ Simon’s Ali store


Actually, I don’t see any point in S21A since S21B became available – it beats S21A in both looks and functionality.

Purchase is not obligatory. Buy what you like. But you would be surprised how well old models sell.

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Clear switch cap would be better imo.

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zeremefico wrote:
Clear switch cap would be better imo.

I'd say “just different”.

Rubber cap allows installation of a lighted tailcap.

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Hello Simon,
Since I modded my Z1 with a 4 LEDs 10W IR emitter … so now I’d like to “know” when it lighten up or turned off (without looking directly at the LEDs which emit a dim red when ON) : could it be possible to get a lighted switch that would fit the Z1?

thank you

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Had to goggle the light to see a pic of the switch. Looks like the SS switch that comes on the colored-body S2+es.

There’s a translucent ring around the button that can leak out some light, so while it wouldn’t be bright, you could swap in a lighted-switch board underneath for a perfectly usable indicator ring.

Or drill out and rethread the hole to use the blue-lit rubber-capped switch (on the Convoy website).

Point being, don’t think there’s a lit SS switch that’d be a drop-in fit.

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