Thanks, Tom. I was trying to find another post i had seen you link that list in, for this question but couldnt find it. Looks like the list has gotten more fulfilled since i have last seen it anyway. Good Stuff!
I recently got an M3 from Banggood in a flash sale not realising that a version with ramping (and charging!) had finally been released.
Damn, looks like the M3 just went over the edge of one of those lights I cannot hold off from buying anymore. I had been on the fence for 2 months now every time i thought to check it out, but the charging and ramping just kicked it into my wallet. thanks…
I bought it from here, it does have biscotti firmware. Also does the switch work with the SST40 driver running biscotti like the one found in the s21b? link
That uses one of the newer, non-7135 MOSFET linear drivers. Compatible. The S21B uses the same driver architecture. Compatible too.
Joe - not sure if this is what you were looking for.
The 3030's will have less lumens then their 4040 counterpart
The 4040's got a nice boost in amps and resulting lumens
The 'Boost' 4040's are considered the next generation, (3rd or 4th gen at this point), but think the majority of us were disappointed in expected throw #'s, though still better
Downside is the 'Boost' 4040's cost more.
The smaller 1mm² LED's will have a smaller hot spot, resulting in somewhat better throw, even though the amps is lower
The 3030's will have less lumens then their 4040 counterpart
The 4040's got a nice boost in amps and resulting lumens
The 'Boost' 4040's are considered the next generation, (3rd or 4th gen at this point), but think the majority of us were disappointed in expected throw #'s, though still better
…
Not meaning to be seen like a wet blanket, but the actual difference between 3030 and 4040 emitters afaik is the footprint size; the size of the interconnecting tracks is just slightly bigger for 4040s. There's nothing more.
There are no actual 4040 emitter reviews, and you may be putting too much hope. In my honest opinion a good binned 3030 would surpass a 4040 in performance, even with less current. Certain people has reported unimpressive performance from 4040s.
So wether 3030s or 4040s the most important factor imho is the bin.
—
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I'm just going by a fairly good source for the 4040's, and that's Hank's specs on the K1 with those emitters. You are right about no BLF official tests/reviews though and bins are important, though constrained by bin availability.
I believe the K1 was previously using the 3030 emitters and recently switched to the 4040s.
It looks like Hank is still using the same driver and current (haven’t actually tested myself) so it isn’t much of an upgrade, but the 4040 package should theoretically allow heat to be sinked to the PCB more quickly and therefore allow for higher max current/lumens.
The 4040 package is about 44% larger than the 3030 so the improvement to heat transfer efficiency should be significant.
I’ve just ordered S2+ with the Green, Blue, and Red Osram emitters to join the excellent Orange-Yellow in my collection. Will do some beam shot photos when they arrive.
So that would be white vs. yellow. As for as colors, green seems to do best while red performs at or close to the least. Yellow is somewhere in between. I don't have best or max amps #'s across the spectrum of colors - some of that info may be found here in this thread, but it does vary per color. I ordered yellow, green and red filters for the FT03 to see what it looks like. I'm no expert here, but others may know the tradeoffs between filters and real LED's.
The 3030’s will have less lumens then their 4040 counterpart
The 4040’s got a nice boost in amps and resulting lumens
The ‘Boost’ 4040’s are considered the next generation, (3rd or 4th gen at this point), but think the majority of us were disappointed in expected throw #‘s, though still better
…
Not meaning to be seen like a wet blanket, but the actual difference between 3030 and 4040 emitters afaik is the footprint size; the size of the interconnecting tracks is just slightly bigger for 4040s. There’s nothing more.
There are no actual 4040 emitter reviews, and you may be putting too much hope. In my honest opinion a good binned 3030 would surpass a 4040 in performance, even with less current. Certain people has reported unimpressive performance from 4040s.
So wether 3030s or 4040s the most important factor imho is the bin.
So.. I am quite new to all of this but I was putting a lot of credence into the 4040 camp. And I have to agree with you here, based on my experience. Here it is-
I recently ordered my first two convoys – the m21a cslpm1 and the L21a CULPM1. And although the reflector is smaller, the m21a appears to throw almost as much and be as bright as the CULPM1. Now, I don’t know how to measure lumens and throw and don’t really care to, but in real world use the 6a driver with cslpm1 really runs the 8a driver L21a CULPM1 for its money. I actually had to check them by taking out reflector because I thought they had the same emitter. I just expected the L21a to CLEARLY with bigger driver and CULPM1 to outperform the m21a. I just don’t think I’ll be buying a CULPM1 again soon for my lights. Side note- I really like bth lights and do not regret buying the L21a. It’s still awesome.
Hi I recently got the L21a osram and I absolutely love that thing!
When I turned it on for the first time the hotspot was very off centred. The hotspot had no corona on one side but three cones on the other side. I tried to readjust the reflector but nothing helped until I jammed a tiny piece of wood (the end of a toothpick) between the emitter and the cantering ring. Is this normal?
Hi I recently got the L21a osram and I absolutely love that thing!
When I turned it on for the first time the hotspot was very off cantered. The hotspot had no corona on one side but three cones on the other side. I tried to readjust the reflector but nothing helped until I jammed a tiny piece of wood (the end of a toothpick) between the emitter and the cantering ring. Is this normal?
When I modded my M21C to CULPM1 I had to put a shim between the bezel and front glass. The 4040 centering ring is quite a bit thinner than the 3535 or 5050 variants which caused the reflector to sit very loosely in the head. I wonder if L21A has a similar issue?
Hi I recently got the L21a osram and I absolutely love that thing!
When I turned it on for the first time the hotspot was very off centred. The hotspot had no corona on one side but three cones on the other side. I tried to readjust the reflector but nothing helped until I jammed a tiny piece of wood (the end of a toothpick) between the emitter and the cantering ring. Is this normal?
The Osram leds are so small which makes them extremely hard to center 100%. Most other brands, if not all, have off center Osram leds. I find it’s the mcpcb that tightens down with screws that throws it off center.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
Thanks, Tom. I was trying to find another post i had seen you link that list in, for this question but couldnt find it. Looks like the list has gotten more fulfilled since i have last seen it anyway. Good Stuff!
Damn, looks like the M3 just went over the edge of one of those lights I cannot hold off from buying anymore. I had been on the fence for 2 months now every time i thought to check it out, but the charging and ramping just kicked it into my wallet. thanks…
Tanks!
Joe - not sure if this is what you were looking for.
Not meaning to be seen like a wet blanket, but the actual difference between 3030 and 4040 emitters afaik is the footprint size; the size of the interconnecting tracks is just slightly bigger for 4040s. There's nothing more.
There are no actual 4040 emitter reviews, and you may be putting too much hope. In my honest opinion a good binned 3030 would surpass a 4040 in performance, even with less current. Certain people has reported unimpressive performance from 4040s.
So wether 3030s or 4040s the most important factor imho is the bin.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I'm just going by a fairly good source for the 4040's, and that's Hank's specs on the K1 with those emitters. You are right about no BLF official tests/reviews though and bins are important, though constrained by bin availability.
I believe the K1 was previously using the 3030 emitters and recently switched to the 4040s.
It looks like Hank is still using the same driver and current (haven’t actually tested myself) so it isn’t much of an upgrade, but the 4040 package should theoretically allow heat to be sinked to the PCB more quickly and therefore allow for higher max current/lumens.
The 4040 package is about 44% larger than the 3030 so the improvement to heat transfer efficiency should be significant.
I’ve just ordered S2+ with the Green, Blue, and Red Osram emitters to join the excellent Orange-Yellow in my collection. Will do some beam shot photos when they arrive.
Recent Reviews: Light Flashlight Painting Buying Guide 2020 // LumeCube 2.0 // Lumintop FW1A // Light Painting Paradise Lightpainter // KDLITKER E6 // Sofirn SP31V2.0 // Convoy S2+
Affiliate links: Neal's Gadgets
Instagram: @stephenk_lightart
Post #4000!
(at the moment)
How to Post Images on BLF // Many knives for sale (USA only)
How to move a thread // WTS Brand New Timex Expedition Vibe Shock Camo Watch (USA only)
Simon, recently I saw in your store L6 host was added for sale. Is it possible to buy L6 with SBT90.2 or you will realise SBT90.2 only with new host?
The 8A driver…
Is it a buck driver or linear?
22mm 8A driver is buck, from Simon here .
Thank you, ordered one.
i got a driver ,But I have to adjust the reflector to make it adapt to sbt90.2.
So what about KW vs Ky?
So that would be white vs. yellow. As for as colors, green seems to do best while red performs at or close to the least. Yellow is somewhere in between. I don't have best or max amps #'s across the spectrum of colors - some of that info may be found here in this thread, but it does vary per color. I ordered yellow, green and red filters for the FT03 to see what it looks like. I'm no expert here, but others may know the tradeoffs between filters and real LED's.
Using my C8+ Osram W1, a red filter gives 150m max usable range from 450m. I prefer a red led.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
Excellent! Looking forward to this as well as the new high CRI emitter.
Does anybody know if 219C 5700K high CRI?
US $4.85 | 219C LED ,5700K / 4000K ,for nichia
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mM2SVJL
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
So.. I am quite new to all of this but I was putting a lot of credence into the 4040 camp. And I have to agree with you here, based on my experience. Here it is-
I recently ordered my first two convoys – the m21a cslpm1 and the L21a CULPM1. And although the reflector is smaller, the m21a appears to throw almost as much and be as bright as the CULPM1. Now, I don’t know how to measure lumens and throw and don’t really care to, but in real world use the 6a driver with cslpm1 really runs the 8a driver L21a CULPM1 for its money. I actually had to check them by taking out reflector because I thought they had the same emitter. I just expected the L21a to CLEARLY with bigger driver and CULPM1 to outperform the m21a. I just don’t think I’ll be buying a CULPM1 again soon for my lights. Side note- I really like bth lights and do not regret buying the L21a. It’s still awesome.
Thank you! Good to know this measurement
What about tints? I been thinking of getting CULP, but still not sure if I like that color. Its a bit more warmer vs. cslp?
yes, 90CRI
Hi I recently got the L21a osram and I absolutely love that thing!
When I turned it on for the first time the hotspot was very off centred. The hotspot had no corona on one side but three cones on the other side. I tried to readjust the reflector but nothing helped until I jammed a tiny piece of wood (the end of a toothpick) between the emitter and the cantering ring. Is this normal?
When I modded my M21C to CULPM1 I had to put a shim between the bezel and front glass. The 4040 centering ring is quite a bit thinner than the 3535 or 5050 variants which caused the reflector to sit very loosely in the head. I wonder if L21A has a similar issue?
Simon you did a great store tune.
It is much more easier to navigate.
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
+1
T hanks
Yes, what are your plans for those puppies?
My reviews:
Thorfire C8s , Thorfire VG-10 , Sipik SK68 , Duracell 350 , Big L@rry , Mystery AAA
The Osram leds are so small which makes them extremely hard to center 100%. Most other brands, if not all, have off center Osram leds. I find it’s the mcpcb that tightens down with screws that throws it off center.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
The L21A is for long range anyway, so very doubtful you’d every notice outside, only on a white wall
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
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