I prefer memory mode. Switch on where I left it. PWM is ok if it is fast enough (S2+, C8+)
Strobe can stay if it is hard to initiate. E.g.: Lumintop Tool AA 2.0: click 6 times quickly to start strobe.
what about moonlight-low-mid-high without memory?
starts on moonlight and 2 taps into high
6 taps into strobe
With the S2+ and C8+ the first thing I did is to set memory mode
One thing is sure: most important is to ramp from low to high, and make hard to initiate strobe.
Anyway, is it that hard to implement a memory mode in these drivers, what the user can turn on or off? It looks like it was not a problem with the Attiny.
Since I joined BLF, there is discussion about memory/no memory, and no one will convince the other.
So yes please, mode order low->high, and option to switch memory on/off. I like the classic way to do that: after 5 seconds in lowest mode a quick off-on blink shows, then click to toggle memory on/off.
Since I joined BLF, there is discussion about memory/no memory, and no one will convince the other.
So yes please, mode order low->high, and option to switch memory on/off. I like the classic way to do that: after 5 seconds in lowest mode a quick off-on blink shows, then click to toggle memory on/off.
Please don’t do the blinky stuff! I have changed the driver in my S2+ lamps because of that blink in low mode The “click an insane amount to go to settings” is way better I think.
Since I joined BLF, there is discussion about memory/no memory, and no one will convince the other.
So yes please, mode order low->high, and option to switch memory on/off. I like the classic way to do that: after 5 seconds in lowest mode a quick off-on blink shows, then click to toggle memory on/off.
Since I joined BLF, there is discussion about memory/no memory, and no one will convince the other.
So yes please, mode order low->high, and option to switch memory on/off. I like the classic way to do that: after 5 seconds in lowest mode a quick off-on blink shows, then click to toggle memory on/off.
+1
Toykeepers Bistro/Biscotti buzzing after 10 clicks would be way better than that utterly annoying blink after 5s on low mode, literally everyone hates it and it’s a medieval solution.
IMO:
FF(0.5lm or less)>Low>Medium>High (looped)
Instant mode memory with no waiting for two hours for the driver to activate it
double press to go back one mode or long press to go to the first mode
optionally Biscotti style programing after 10 half presses to reverse the mode order to H>M>L>FF and to turn off or on the Mode memory.
This way everyone would be happy, it will stay muggle friendly and the implementation shouldn’t be a challenge.
—
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 ; Sofrin C01R 660nm, Mf01 Mini Nichia 219B sw35+sw40
Please don’t do the blinky stuff! I have changed the driver in my S2+ lamps because of that blink in low mode The “click an insane amount to go to settings” is way better I think.
Yep, Bistro UI. Strobe is hidden, memory and moonlight can be enabled/disabled, number of modes and modes order (low to high, high to low) can be changed, etc.
It’s better to have an UI that is configurable by the user than changing convoy UI each time someone request a varation that can be changed with a programmable UI.
I did not know that the blib on low mode for mode group changing was so thoroughly hated among BLF
Ok Simon, please do not do that but listen to the other suggestions
Hi Simon,
Do you have or plan any flashlight able to use all of AA / NiMH / 14500 li-ion (voltage range 0.8..4.4V)?
Interested in both one and two cell variants.
i will get AA/14500 driver with high efficiency soon ,one or two weeks
What is the most reasonable mode ?
I will be OK with any set of 4-6 modes of constant light (strobe is not mandatory; moonlight is).
What I’m looking for is versatile power supply (everything of AA form factor can be used: alkaline, NiMH, Li-Ion,…) and size.
Such a one-cell flashlight should be most compact, allowing even holding on keyring for an ideal case.
Two-cell option will be comfortable for self-defence purposes because of diameter/length combination (but need no tail button here).
I think you are trying to PM me via Ali Express, but that may be another matter. It’s not connecting to AliExpress right now so will Reply to that later.
I will be OK with any set of 4-6 modes of constant light (strobe is not mandatory; moonlight is).
What I’m looking for is versatile power supply (everything of AA form factor can be used: alkaline, NiMH, Li-Ion,…) and size.
Such a one-cell flashlight should be most compact, allowing even holding on keyring for an ideal case.
Two-cell option will be comfortable for self-defence purposes because of diameter/length combination (but need no tail button here).
The “click an insane amount to go to settings” is way better I think.
+1
I didn’t buy S2+ because of blinking in low mode. No more blinking
Moonlight-low-med-hi.
Oooor…
5 modes ML-Lo-Lo-Med-Hi with 2-click for back
And ability to turn memory on and off after a bunch of clicks, strobe after…idk
Buuut…
My personal best is 2 mode groups, 4 modes in each and memory on in one, and off in another, group changing after 9-click. E.g. 1%-10%-40%-100% memory on and 0,2%-3%-15%-60% memory off
—
If you struggle choosing your perfect headlamp, check my headlamp guide, I compared 15 most popular headlamps there: CLICK
Hi Simon,
Do you have or plan any flashlight able to use all of AA / NiMH / 14500 li-ion (voltage range 0.8..4.4V)?
Interested in both one and two cell variants.
i will get AA/14500 driver with high efficiency soon ,one or two weeks
What is the most reasonable mode ?
Any chance for 15mm diameter driver?
It’s very rare.
I think you are trying to PM me via Ali Express, but that may be another matter. It’s not connecting to AliExpress right now so will Reply to that later.
My reviews:,My personal collection of lightsLINK, J5 Tactical V1 Pro reviewLINK, Thirteen Optical Sensors reviewLINK, Zebralight SC700d reviewLINK, Ray-O-Vac Super Power Sportsman reviewLINK,Convoy S2+ color combosLINK, How To flash D4V2LINK, Convoy S21ALINK
… Is the current of these drivers limited per firmware or are this direct drive drivers? Will I get 10-18Amps with a 3V XHP50.2? Is this possible?
the ramping driver is direct driver the 4modes has constant current
The ramping driver is regulated. Comes stock configured at 8A in high, using a 5mΩ (R005) sense resistor (I recently built a C8S with a ∅22mm unit and got 7.63A measured with my power supply for that unit). Being regulated means it uses the MOSFET in linear mode by tuning the gate voltage to limit current to desired values, thus it won't go above 8A unless the sense resistor value is lowered.
Better to say this than having to hear someone complaining at a later date. Wieselflinkpro is probably better served with an unregulated MOSFET driver (with @#$% PWMed mid and low modes) if he wants as much current as it will go.
—
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
The human mind, and its programming, is at the forefront of a particular battle of The Light vs evil dark forces. Nearly every human being on this beautiful planet “Earth” has some sort of negative mind programming in its mind. And you better take care of your mind programming, or someone else will in this wicked world.
Viruses DON'T cause diseases, they rather are a consequence of them. Read the book “Béchamp or Pasteur” by Ethel Hume for more information.
Thanks for the point, it’s interesting. I also saw Sofirn SP10S, but this brand usually glues all the head as far as I heard, it isn’t nice. Even omitting upgradeable optics/LED point, what I have to do after breaking the glass, for example?
BTW, single model with optional extension tube (1*AA <-> 2*AA) is even better solution than two different flashlight models, I missed to wish that initially
BTW, single model with optional extension tube (1*AA <-> 2*AA) is even better solution than two different flashlight models, I missed to wish that initially
I like 2×AA lights, I’m waiting for a Jaxman M2 at the moment, but I’d be interested in a Convoy S2+ style 2×AA tube light as well
I like long 3×AA lights too, I’d buy several 3×AA tubes for my Convoy S2+ lights and just use the Li-Ion driver
i have a problem with Crescendo UI , there is no memory function ,
is it because of attiny 13?
Same as in biscotti firmware. Only here is the first option.
Config mode ——————
To enter config mode, quickly tap a bunch of times until the light stops lighting up. It should be 16+ times. Then it’ll scroll through the options:
1. Memory toggle. Tap during the “buzz” to turn memory on or off.
2. Thermal calibration. Tap during the “buzz” to enter thermal
calibration mode.
– Light turns on at a low level: Tap now to set default temperature
limit. Otherwise, wait.
– Light goes to full brightness: Tap at any time to set temperature
limit to the current temperature. Basically, wait until it feels
hot, then tap.
So, to set a temperature limit:
- Tap 16+ times.
- Wait for the light to blink twice.
- Tap during the “buzz”.
- Wait until the light feels hot, then click to turn it off.
Will optics fit in that light? I’m curious to see the beam pattern with that reflector.
Does it use a 20mm triple MCPCB? I guess the driver is 22mm and the battery is 21700 (not 21.7 700 lol)
Reverse clicky switch, right?
—
Acebeam L18, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Olight Baton 3, Olight Warrior Mini, Olight M2R Pro Warrior.
With the S2+ and C8+ the first thing I did is to set memory mode
One thing is sure: most important is to ramp from low to high, and make hard to initiate strobe.
Anyway, is it that hard to implement a memory mode in these drivers, what the user can turn on or off? It looks like it was not a problem with the Attiny.
Is the current of these drivers limited per firmware or are this direct drive drivers?
Will I get 10-18Amps with a 3V XHP50.2? Is this possible?
Since I joined BLF, there is discussion about memory/no memory, and no one will convince the other.
So yes please, mode order low->high, and option to switch memory on/off. I like the classic way to do that: after 5 seconds in lowest mode a quick off-on blink shows, then click to toggle memory on/off.
link to djozz tests
Please don’t do the blinky stuff!
I have changed the driver in my S2+ lamps because of that blink in low mode 
The “click an insane amount to go to settings” is way better I think.
+1
Amen!
+1
Toykeepers Bistro/Biscotti buzzing after 10 clicks would be way better than that utterly annoying blink after 5s on low mode, literally everyone hates it and it’s a medieval solution.
IMO:
optionally Biscotti style programing after 10 half presses to reverse the mode order to H>M>L>FF and to turn off or on the Mode memory.
This way everyone would be happy, it will stay muggle friendly and the implementation shouldn’t be a challenge.
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 ; Sofrin C01R 660nm, Mf01 Mini Nichia 219B sw35+sw40
Yep, Bistro UI. Strobe is hidden, memory and moonlight can be enabled/disabled, number of modes and modes order (low to high, high to low) can be changed, etc.
It’s better to have an UI that is configurable by the user than changing convoy UI each time someone request a varation that can be changed with a programmable UI.
I did not know that the blib on low mode for mode group changing was so thoroughly hated among BLF
Ok Simon, please do not do that but listen to the other suggestions
link to djozz tests
I will be OK with any set of 4-6 modes of constant light (strobe is not mandatory; moonlight is).
What I’m looking for is versatile power supply (everything of AA form factor can be used: alkaline, NiMH, Li-Ion,…) and size.
Such a one-cell flashlight should be most compact, allowing even holding on keyring for an ideal case.
Two-cell option will be comfortable for self-defence purposes because of diameter/length combination (but need no tail button here).
Banggood Order 67173293
6/2/2019
I think you are trying to PM me via Ali Express, but that may be another matter. It’s not connecting to AliExpress right now so will Reply to that later.
Thanks Simon!
Apart from the 4-6 modes, there is something like that, the DQG Slim Ti: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60258
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Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2 / 3
+1
I didn’t buy S2+ because of blinking in low mode. No more blinking
Moonlight-low-med-hi.
Oooor…
5 modes ML-Lo-Lo-Med-Hi with 2-click for back
And ability to turn memory on and off after a bunch of clicks, strobe after…idk
Buuut…
My personal best is 2 mode groups, 4 modes in each and memory on in one, and off in another, group changing after 9-click. E.g. 1%-10%-40%-100% memory on and 0,2%-3%-15%-60% memory off
If you struggle choosing your perfect headlamp, check my headlamp guide, I compared 15 most popular headlamps there: CLICK
uh,15mm is too small
the ramping driver is direct driver
the 4modes has constant current
uh ,you can PM me about your problem
I posted them HERE.
My reviews: , My personal collection of lights LINK, J5 Tactical V1 Pro review LINK, Thirteen Optical Sensors review LINK, Zebralight SC700d review LINK, Ray-O-Vac Super Power Sportsman review LINK, Convoy S2+ color combos LINK, How To flash D4V2 LINK, Convoy S21A LINK
The ramping driver is regulated. Comes stock configured at 8A in high, using a 5mΩ (R005) sense resistor (I recently built a C8S with a ∅22mm unit and got 7.63A measured with my power supply for that unit). Being regulated means it uses the MOSFET in linear mode by tuning the gate voltage to limit current to desired values, thus it won't go above 8A unless the sense resistor value is lowered.
Better to say this than having to hear someone complaining at a later date. Wieselflinkpro is probably better served with an unregulated MOSFET driver (with @#$% PWMed mid and low modes) if he wants as much current as it will go.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
The human mind, and its programming, is at the forefront of a particular battle of The Light vs evil dark forces. Nearly every human being on this beautiful planet “Earth” has some sort of negative mind programming in its mind. And you better take care of your mind programming, or someone else will in this wicked world.
Viruses DON'T cause diseases, they rather are a consequence of them. Read the book “Béchamp or Pasteur” by Ethel Hume for more information.
Does anyone know if the S2+ clip will fit the S21 correctly?
Most likely not, S21 has a bigger diameter.
Thanks for the point, it’s interesting. I also saw Sofirn SP10S, but this brand usually glues all the head as far as I heard, it isn’t nice. Even omitting upgradeable optics/LED point, what I have to do after breaking the glass, for example?
BTW, single model with optional extension tube (1*AA <-> 2*AA) is even better solution than two different flashlight models, I missed to wish that initially
I ask because there is a slot on the S21A for one (I think?) and I haven’t seen a specific S21A clip on Simon’s Ali shop listings.
I like 2×AA lights, I’m waiting for a Jaxman M2 at the moment, but I’d be interested in a Convoy S2+ style 2×AA tube light as well
I like long 3×AA lights too, I’d buy several 3×AA tubes for my Convoy S2+ lights and just use the Li-Ion driver
not suitable
Same as in biscotti firmware. Only here is the first option.
Config mode
——————
To enter config mode, quickly tap a bunch of times until the light stops lighting up. It should be 16+ times. Then it’ll scroll through the options:
1. Memory toggle. Tap during the “buzz” to turn memory on or off.
2. Thermal calibration. Tap during the “buzz” to enter thermal calibration mode. – Light turns on at a low level: Tap now to set default temperature limit. Otherwise, wait. – Light goes to full brightness: Tap at any time to set temperature limit to the current temperature. Basically, wait until it feels hot, then tap.
So, to set a temperature limit:
- Tap 16+ times.
- Wait for the light to blink twice.
- Tap during the “buzz”.
- Wait until the light feels hot, then click to turn it off.
I came here to take a look at the titanium AAA Convoy sample but I don’t see it…
Check the first post
List of my reviews over at 1lumen.com
~~~~~~~~~
oweban.org
Pics are in OP
Thank you!
I see a twisty keychain…nice.
I don’t like the patina-style anodization but nevertheless I’m very interested.
That 3x SST-20 light looks great!
Will optics fit in that light? I’m curious to see the beam pattern with that reflector.
Does it use a 20mm triple MCPCB? I guess the driver is 22mm and the battery is 21700 (not 21.7 700 lol)
Reverse clicky switch, right?
Acebeam L18, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Olight Baton 3, Olight Warrior Mini, Olight M2R Pro Warrior.
Most of them have been modded! =)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
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