A Perfect Dedome?

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Barkuti
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Turpentine @ Wikipedia

Mmm, this stuff is readily available at supermarkets/grocery stores over here… 

May give it a try soon if no one warns against.

 

Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.

The human mind, and its programming, is at the forefront of a particular battle of The Light vs evil dark forces. Nearly every human being on this beautiful planet “Earth” has some sort of negative mind programming in its mind. And you better take care of your mind programming, or someone else will in this wicked world.

Viruses DON'T cause diseases! They are better called exosomes, and they are cell cleaners! Watch Virus Theory vs Exosome Theory video and awaken to this truth! Check this article by MD Andrew Kaufman. Read the book “Béchamp or Pasteur” by Ethel Hume for in-depth information.

khas
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The ones I have de-domed so far with this :

I have been using this small glass with a lid :

I fill the glass to about half full, then with the lid almost closed I put it in a pot of just boiling water, wait five minutes it’s normally enough but if it need a bit more I change the water with some freshly boiled water from the kettle. When I am happy with the result I gently blow it clean with compressed air. I two LED’s in the jar I find it works best that way.

Regarding safety : I do it outside of the house, I don’t have a gas-mask but I normally make sure I have a lit cigarette in my mouth I can breath through just to filter out any fumes Wink

Barkuti
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khas wrote:

Regarding safety : I do it outside of the house, I don't have a gas-mask but I normally make sure I have a lit cigarette in my mouth I can breath through just to filter out any fumes ;)

 

Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.

The human mind, and its programming, is at the forefront of a particular battle of The Light vs evil dark forces. Nearly every human being on this beautiful planet “Earth” has some sort of negative mind programming in its mind. And you better take care of your mind programming, or someone else will in this wicked world.

Viruses DON'T cause diseases! They are better called exosomes, and they are cell cleaners! Watch Virus Theory vs Exosome Theory video and awaken to this truth! Check this article by MD Andrew Kaufman. Read the book “Béchamp or Pasteur” by Ethel Hume for in-depth information.

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luminarium iaculator wrote:

Guys everything is dangerous and cancerous this days… Even barbecue, normal cigs E cigs… Smokers are greater pollutants than de domers Smile

Have you ever did coloring of metal surfaces like fences and similar stuff using regular paint brush? There is like 99% of chance that you will get dirty after that. Here in X part of the world(Balkan) people would laugh at you to see you wearing gas mask while working with paint thinner Smile To me this is hilarious even when I imagine that Big Smile

Of course you will not wash your hands with it when you cleaning yourself with it. You will put small amount of that on some cotton or small sponge and then you will dissolve dirty places on skin and then you’ll wash all that with soap.

There are so many chemicals that can harm us more than mentioned thinner.

But of course… We all should be very careful when de doming cause Mr. Devil never sleeps.


https://www.atlenv.com/is-paint-thinner-dangerous-to-my-health/
Boiling it in large quantities is not the typical use scenario for paint thinner…
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From mentioned article:

“The OSHA 8-hour time-weighted exposure limit for paint thinner (as Stoddard Solvent) is 500 parts per million (ppm). This is half the OSHA limit for exposure to acetone (nail polish remover), so paint thinners are not terribly hazardous. But, it has to be remembered that paint thinner vapors can irritate the eyes, nose and throat, in spite of their fairly pleasant odor, and can make one dizzy and/or nauseous if the vapors are inhaled in high enough levels over a long enough time period.”

So yes everybody beware when cooking with it. I also warned about that. But you would not really want to try second bolded section(inhalation of vapors)?
Edit: Put it on cooker. Stopwatch at 15minutes when it starts boiling and get out of there on beer or something Beer When you return clog your nose and turn off cooker… Then go to another beer until all vapors evaporates Beer

How to say… On our Balkan market thinner is as regular thing as some dish washing fluid. Even some grocery shops carry that on hardware section. You can’t do anything without it (painting, cleaning, de doming Smile )

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I do not want to kill anyone’s fun. Actually very tempted to try it myself. All I am saying is be careful and use common good sense.

The ‘good’ part of toluene is that it is smelly and most people cannot stand the smell once it gets to a dangerous concentration. It is also not a proven carcinogen and does not accumulate in the body.

Short-term exposure effects (headache, nausea, muscle spams, dizziness, etc.) will go away. Long-term exposure can, however, cause permanent damage to the nervous system and brain.

https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2016-09/documents/toluene.pdf

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So if you guys do that in combination with beer technique or cigarette like Khas it will be a lot easier.

Only thing that worries me guys(USA and rest of the world) is what paint thinners do you have on your market… Maybe your are with stronger chemicals or more flammable for example?
On our market there are really some expensive paint thinners which I(and probably 80% of nation) never tried them.
So I will say if you will buying them use the universal thinner cheapest available. They should not cost more than 2-3$ per liter.

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I am from Argentina, solvent came out 7 dollars a liter
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luminarium iaculator wrote:
From mentioned article:

“The OSHA 8-hour time-weighted exposure limit for paint thinner (as Stoddard Solvent) is 500 parts per million (ppm). This is half the OSHA limit for exposure to acetone (nail polish remover), so paint thinners are not terribly hazardous. But, it has to be remembered that paint thinner vapors can irritate the eyes, nose and throat, in spite of their fairly pleasant odor, and can make one dizzy and/or nauseous if the vapors are inhaled in high enough levels over a long enough time period.”

So yes everybody beware when cooking with it. I also warned about that. But you would not really want to try second bolded section(inhalation of vapors)?
Edit: Put it on cooker. Stopwatch at 15minutes when it starts boiling and get out of there on beer or something Beer When you return clog your nose and turn off cooker… Then go to another beer until all vapors evaporates Beer

How to say… On our Balkan market thinner is as regular thing as some dish washing fluid. Even some grocery shops carry that on hardware section. You can’t do anything without it (painting, cleaning, de doming Smile )


If you inhaled dish washing fluid that would probably be just as bad.
The point is that you should have decent ventilation when stuff like that is in the air.
Open a window and turn on the exhaust or something.
luminarium iaculator
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I mentioned all that point about ventilation in my directions in several posts in this thread and especially in this post http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1149778#comment-1149778

If I only knew that it will cause so much issues and questions I would never mentioned my nitro paint thinner method.
Members like MEM, Mitko and now Saabluster holds their small secrets for themselves and I was stupid enough to reveal mine.
Now I know there are way more clever than I am. So this will be another “school” for me.

And the most interesting thing is when I already gave my detail described method that really works people tend to do it on their way anyway.

So good luck guys I am really not mad or anything but I am unsubscribing from this thread. I don’t have nerves for this paint thinner discussion any more.

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A tiny ‘pressure cooker’ would be awesome, maybe Djozz can find a tiny “autoclaaf” (iirc) on his job.
I have a metal sealable cylinder that i use for gas dedoming by the way.
I can heat it up to more that 100°C without a problem.
It doesn’t seal perfectly (anymore, it’s old) but very little fumes escape and i use it in the bathing room near the air suction vent.
I would never heat up thinners without a cover in a badly ventilated room.

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luminarium iaculator wrote:

Members like MEM, Mitko and now Saabluster holds their small secrets for themselves
And that sucks.
Are they afraid of competition or something?
Quote:
and I was stupid enough to reveal mine.
Not stupid at all.
Isn’t a hobby forum for sharing ideas and helping fellow hobbyists with solutions? (pun not intended).
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Don’t go away – we are making progress here! Smile

luminarium iaculator wrote:
Only thing that worries me guys(USA and rest of the world) is what paint thinners do you have on your market… Maybe your are with stronger chemicals or more flammable for example?

Problem with these chemicals (here at least) is to cut through the branding and dumbed-down marketing. Way I see it there are four main ‘products’ of interest over here:

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Jerommel wrote:
luminarium iaculator wrote:

Members like MEM, Mitko and now Saabluster holds their small secrets for themselves
And that sucks.
Are they afraid of competition or something?
Quote:
and I was stupid enough to reveal mine.
Not stupid at all.
Isn’t a hobby forum for sharing ideas and helping fellow hobbyists with solutions? (pun not intended).

He’s just trying to make a big deal about him “unsubbing from this thread” because apparently he is upset I didn’t read the last 800 posts and said the same thing about ventilation as he did before.
khas
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luminarium iaculator wrote:
and I was stupid enough to reveal mine.

I am very happy you revealed your method, I have tried many different solvents available here in Denmark but they didn’t work very well. The method I use have worked for me so far so I will keep using it.

Thank you so much for sharing Beer

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luminarium iaculator wrote:
I mentioned all that point about ventilation in my directions in several posts in this thread and especially in this post http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1149778#comment-1149778

If I only knew that it will cause so much issues and questions I would never mentioned my nitro paint thinner method.
Members like MEM, Mitko and now Saabluster holds their small secrets for themselves and I was stupid enough to reveal mine.
Now I know there are way more clever than I am. So this will be another “school” for me.

And the most interesting thing is when I already gave my detail described method that really works people tend to do it on their way anyway.

So good luck guys I am really not mad or anything but I am unsubscribing from this thread. I don’t have nerves for this paint thinner discussion any more.

That’s the kind of stuff that pisses me off about some of the folks in this forum…“secret methods”. Thank you for sharing your method, it was very nice of you. To me this forum is about helping others that are in the same hobby as you are. It’s not about…haha,I’ve got a better way and I’m not telling you…crap like that belongs on the “other forum”…not on BLF.

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I’d like to say thanks to everyone who shares their tips in this thread. I’m a hot high octane person. I use very hot high octane gasoline. I started doing this myself after I found out that trying to de-dome in gas during the winter wasn’t working that well. Old Lumens was having great success in his sweltering workshop and I always had good success when I first started because it was summer time. When winter hit it wasn’t working as good so I started heating up my gasoline. I put my emitters in a small porceline crock that I fill about a quarter full (little less than that) and float on top of a large bucket of super hot water.

The Hot high octane does work with the SST-40’s but it’s not as clean as the one with the mystery solvent. I say “mystery” because it’s hard to know exactly what it’s made of. Here in the US our solvents have become more “green” (for lack of a better word). Everything we use is now more environmentally and medically safe.

I used to restore Victorian houses for a while and painted a ton of them using oil paint. Of course we used a paint thinner and Yes I also washed my hands and equipment with it. But at the same time my wife who “does nails” was also using similar products to remove nail polish. As the green movement hit our solvents became weaker and weaker and less effective as well. (Same thing goes for the freon and other products used in refrigeration).

On the “mystery” product; My first thought was that the “nitro” part of the name had to come from “nitrocellulose”. Nitrocellusose is a type of finish, it’s a “lacquer”. I’ve used it to finish guitar bodies and I have seen it used on cars. In the US we also have Lacquer Thinner. But not all lacquer is the same, far from it. So come companies make a lacquer thinner that matches their own brand of lacquer. Cars use a different lacquer than guitars. So which solvent to try? Again this is very hard to say it might not be any of them “exactly”. That’s why it would be nice to know exactly what the ingredients are in the “mystery” solvent. It’s also likely that it’s a combination of chemicals just like our other various solvents on the market are. But in the US one of the missing ingredients from going “green” is often Toluene. Yes they actually used Toluene as an ingredient in nail polish remover and paint thinners. Also most cars are no longer finished with any type of nitrocellulose product.

I’m guessing that even the solvents used at body shops are not going to be the same as they once were. However, as some people are still painting and finishing cars the old fashioned way, someone in that industry probably has access to the old style Nitrocellulose thinner. Same can be said for guitar luthiers. (I do french polishes on my guitars but not with nitrocellulose). StewMac is one of the luthier shops that I use and they have two different types of Nitrocellulose thinner. One is their own brand and one is brand specific. These might be worth a try. I have also seen a type of nitrocellulose thinner that is used by some of the guys who paint and finish cars. That might be even closer to the mystery solvent. It’s also possible that none of these are the exact solvent because it might simply be that the mystery solvent is one of our Pre-“Green” paint thinners. These new solvents might be missing a number of chemicals actually.

I’ll try out a few of these solvents and see if I can find one that works as well as the mystery solvent. Hopefully I’ll find something that I can share in this thread to help add something of value. Mostly though I will be trying to find something to work better on the harder domes that are more difficult. The Hot High Octane method works great on the XML’s and XPG domes already.

Thanks again to everyone who is helping out on this thread.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

18sixfifty
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I might give this one a try first.

http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/paint-chem...

http://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/248671.pdf

You can see from the MSDS that it includes Toluene, Acetone, Ethyl Acetate and Methanol.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

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18sixfifty wrote:
You can see from the MSDS that it includes Toluene, Acetone, Ethyl Acetate and Methanol.

Fooey. Neither EtOAc nor MeOH does anything to silicone. Personally, I’d stick with straight toluene. Probably cheaper per gallon, too.

Unless someone wants to mix up a witch’s brew of xylene, toluene, MEK, and other HC nasties. Might be mutual “adjuvants” to softening silicone.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

khas
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I think toluene could be a option as well, if I can find something smaller than a 5 L (1.3 US Gallons) canister Smile

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Lightbringer wrote:
18sixfifty wrote:
You can see from the MSDS that it includes Toluene, Acetone, Ethyl Acetate and Methanol.

Fooey. Neither EtOAc nor MeOH does anything to silicone. Personally, I’d stick with straight toluene. Probably cheaper per gallon, too.

Unless someone wants to mix up a witch’s brew of xylene, toluene, MEK, and other HC nasties. Might be mutual “adjuvants” to softening silicone.

I thought about toluene as well, but I couldn’t really tell from your comment on it if you were saying that the “mystery” stuff was mostly Toluene or if you were referring to the stuff Jdozz used that didn’t work so well.

Pretty much all of the solvents have a different “special” add mixture of various chemicals. If it is Toluene that works correctly then that would be very cool. Maybe you could try it and report back to us? That would be cool too. Right now I’m trying a stripper that has toluene in it that I had laying around from a project. It also has acetone (which will remove domes but not that great), methylene chloride and methanol.

I’ll report back in a while and say how it goes.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

18sixfifty
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khas wrote:
I think toluene could be a option as well, if I can find something smaller than a 5 L (1.3 US Gallons) canister Smile

Same here. I was surprised they had any in stock at all, but they did have a gallon of Toluene at the hardware store in town, something like $26 though. (Which I’d pay if it actually worked really well). I’m sure it would be cheaper at a large hardware store, but for me that’s an hours drive away.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

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I’m almost sure that Toulene is the ingredient that does the trick. I have a thinner with over 80% toulene, 15% acetone and a few percentage of methyl and isobutylene. It dedomed an xm-l2 in under two minutes. Completely clean.

The tint was however not so great. That’s why I’m still looking to get Nitro thinner.

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Sledgestone wrote:
I’m almost sure that Toulene is the ingredient that does the trick. I have a thinner with over 80% toulene, 15% acetone and a few percentage of methyl and isobutylene. It dedomed an xm-l2 in under two minutes. Completely clean.

The tint was however not so great. That’s why I’m still looking to get Nitro thinner.

Wow that’s fast. Too bad it changed the tint, hope you find the Nitro thinner.

I’m not worried about it for the XM-L2’s or XP-G2’s but I’d really like to find something that works wonders on the new SST-40’s. I love their output and the fact that they can be really over-driven in a big way. They seem to clean up good when I first cut the dome off and then use the Hot Gasoline trick but I’d like to see them be absolutely perfect if possible.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

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Sledgestone wrote:
I’m almost sure that Toulene is the ingredient that does the trick. I have a thinner with over 80% toulene, 15% acetone and a few percentage of methyl and isobutylene. It dedomed an xm-l2 in under two minutes. Completely clean.

The tint was however not so great. That’s why I’m still looking to get Nitro thinner.

What was it you didn’t like about the tint change with toulene? I have only done a few , but my first few I tried with gasoline, turned green. Hot gas made a difference, in that they turned more yellow. I’m kind of color blind, so I don’t know if that makes a difference to most, but it seems more natural to me. I just use a shotglass (that I’ll only serve shots to someone else Angry ), with gas, and set it in a pot, pouring in boiling water. The gas usually starts boiling within a minute. Xm-L2’s come completely clean within a few minutes. Xp-G’s, I might have to add more hot water, to get them clean. I am hoping for the minimum Tint change, but understand it’s going to happen. Thanks

Bug

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The tint turned very green. I did it exactly the same way you did except with thinner.

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Are you guys sure that the solvent made your leds turn green and not the tint of the led you started with? To me it is a bit of a BLF-myth that the used chemical for dedoming has any effect on the resulting tint.

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18sixfifty wrote:
Sledgestone wrote:
I’m almost sure that Toulene is the ingredient that does the trick. I have a thinner with over 80% toulene, 15% acetone and a few percentage of methyl and isobutylene. It dedomed an xm-l2 in under two minutes. Completely clean.

The tint was however not so great. That’s why I’m still looking to get Nitro thinner.

Wow that’s fast. Too bad it changed the tint, hope you find the Nitro thinner.

I’m not worried about it for the XM-L2’s or XP-G2’s but I’d really like to find something that works wonders on the new SST-40’s. I love their output and the fact that they can be really over-driven in a big way. They seem to clean up good when I first cut the dome off and then use the Hot Gasoline trick but I’d like to see them be absolutely perfect if possible.

Yes, it went extremely fast. My best bet in acquiring Nitro in Italian eBay. Sure, it might be a bit expensive, but if it works it will be worth it in the end.

I’m thinking of buying some of the SST-40s also. If I do, I’ll definitely try dedoming them with thinner and report back if it’s a success or not.

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djozz wrote:
Are you guys sure that the solvent made your leds turn green and not the tint of the led you started with? To me it is a bit of a BLF-myth that the used chemical for dedoming has any effect on the resulting tint.

As I’m still very green at dedoming, I really don’t know what the actual cause is. The ones I’ve tried it on are XM-L2 U2 1a. But I’m not really sure if they had a hint of green in them in the first place.

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