Cree XHP70 up to 4022 Lumens and XHP50 up to 2546 lumens - Multi-die leds.

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RMM
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I will be carrying XHP50 and XHP70 in about a month, but I am still not sure what the bin and tint will be. Copper 6V and 12V XHP50/XHP70 Sinkpad MCPCBs are already available.

I am thinking about a multi-emitter XHP70 build.  Any suggestions for a good host?  I was thinking about doing a 3x XHP70 Supfire M6, with 8x18350s powering it.  

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DB Custom
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Same here, about to assemble a triple M6…emitters should be here today or tomorrow unless Mouser is playing the cat and mouse game.

I have about 19 of the copper SinkPAD MK-R stars if anyone is interested.

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RMM wrote:
I was thinking about doing a 3x XHP70 Supfire M6, with 8×18350s powering it.

Don’t do it. 4 × 18650 has to be sooo much better. The least you’d have to do is make a contact plate in Eagle… And the tail end is extremely easily modified.
RMM
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Mike C wrote:
RMM wrote:
I was thinking about doing a 3x XHP70 Supfire M6, with 8x18350s powering it.
Don't do it. 4 x 18650 has to be sooo much better. The least you'd have to do is make a contact plate in Eagle... And the tail end is extremely easily modified.

I realize the capacity benefits, and making a custom driver isn't an issue, but 4x18650 without gluing the head shut or adding a set screw has too much possibility for very "heated" mistakes (I think you know this from personal experience). 

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RMM wrote:
I am thinking about a multi-emitter XHP70 build.  Any suggestions for a good host?  I was thinking about doing a 3x XHP70 Supfire M6, with 8×18350s powering it.

I think the M6 would be a great host for it.

18350’s would be an easier build but would be a bit of a pain to manage all the batteries which would need to be done often. 18650’s in serial would be much better.

Edit: Perhaps a light with a removable battery holder would be a better choice.

DB Custom
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Hi Beam, the problem is that we are working with an existing light. The distance between the driver and springs is a set figure. We can’t just start building battery carriers and shoving em in, they won’t fit. So there is no universal easy solution. Have a new tail cap made and this would be very much the way to go. Short of doing that, it’s a problem.

RMM
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Hi-Beam wrote:
RMM wrote:
I am thinking about a multi-emitter XHP70 build.  Any suggestions for a good host?  I was thinking about doing a 3x XHP70 Supfire M6, with 8x18350s powering it.
I think the M6 would be a great host for it. 18350's would be an easier build but would be a bit of a pain to manage all the batteries which would need to be done often. 18650's in serial would be much better. Edit: Perhaps a light with a removable battery holder would be a better choice.

TK75 would be pretty sweet, but that's too expensive.  

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DBCstm wrote:
Hi Beam, the problem is that we are working with an existing light. The distance between the driver and springs is a set figure. We can’t just start building battery carriers and shoving em in, they won’t fit. So there is no universal easy solution. Have a new tail cap made and this would be very much the way to go. Short of doing that, it’s a problem.

Oh, my bad, I thought you could use some old beer cans to make a battery carrier, and if you were to hit it real hard with a sledge hammer you might get it to fit.

I guess being employed by IBM for 14 years as an electromechanical engineer didn’t teach me a thing did it.

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It’s always a good idea to leave sledge hammers alone when beer is involved. Wink

Of course, I could not know where you’re coming from. Please feel free to draw us up a battery carrier for the M6. Oh yeah, it’s not a simple tube.

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RMM wrote:

I will be carrying XHP50 and XHP70 in about a month, but I am still not sure what the bin and tint will be. Copper 6V and 12V XHP50/XHP70 Sinkpad MCPCBs are already available.

I am thinking about a multi-emitter XHP70 build.  Any suggestions for a good host?  I was thinking about doing a 3x XHP70 Supfire M6, with 8×18350s powering it.  

Please dont cripple it with 18350’s. Do this instead: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36267 M6 Goodness!

RMM
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FlashPilot wrote:
RMM wrote:

I will be carrying XHP50 and XHP70 in about a month, but I am still not sure what the bin and tint will be. Copper 6V and 12V XHP50/XHP70 Sinkpad MCPCBs are already available.

I am thinking about a multi-emitter XHP70 build.  Any suggestions for a good host?  I was thinking about doing a 3x XHP70 Supfire M6, with 8x18350s powering it.  

Please dont cripple it with 18350's. Do this instead: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36267 M6 Goodness!

You mean this?

I don't trust myself to not screw up at some point with it, let alone other people who may pick up the light.   I think that a dedicated battery carrier may be in order.  Bore out the M6 tube and slide it in.  

Just to be clear: I'm not mocking Mike C's build, in fact I think it's quite cool, but it's just not for me.

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The nice thing about the M6 is that it can be thrown like a hand grenade if it starts smoking. Big Smile Boring it out for a cell carrier sounds like an interesting idea, and certainly far safer to keep the dead-short gremlins at bay.

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RMM wrote:
I don’t trust myself to not screw up at some point with it, let alone other people who may pick up the light.   I think that a dedicated battery carrier may be in order.  Bore out the M6 tube and slide it in.

If you plan on making a dedicated battery carrier for it, why bore out the tube? Why not make a 4 leaf clover shape to match the contours of the housing, with 1 or more smooth connecting rods running down the center of the batteries. Once inserted the batteries would lock the carrier in place to prevent twisting of the top plate. There appears to be enough room to insert 2 possibly 3 smaller connecting rods in the center of the batteries if twisting is of concern, however if engineered properly the top plate would lock into the grooves cut into the housing for the batteries and twisting of the battery carrier would be an impossibility.
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I agree Hi-Beam, that is pretty much what I was thinking about too. With the clover leaf plate to convert to 2S2P the button top cells of 2 would be in contact with the driver as usual, the other 2 would be in contact with the springs. That should work fine and removing the battery tube for changes wouldn’t impact anything, it would be necessary to remove the tail cap to get to the other 2 cells though, right? Unless the carrier would slide out, which should also work. Maybe a hexagonal shaped aluminum rod in the center of sufficient size to allow the use of 2 or even 3 small screws to prevent twisting when out of the tube?

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LCK-LED just emailed me also about the 50s and said they will be in stock on the 26th of this month.

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Aren’t they in Germany?

Mouser will have 50’s in stock the 23rd of next month, they say.

Are these the warm ones at 3000K?

DB Custom
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There’s only 0.30” between the cells in the M6. Maybe a square shaft?

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Ok, looking at the light, why not simplify? A block of pcb material crossing the driver end could have contacts to touch the negative end of the blocked cell and also the retaining ring. The pcb with springs in the tail cap could then be modified to tie the 2 groups of cells together for series. Batt + would be the two button tops, as usual, Batt – would contact at the retaining ring. That one simple block would do it all. The 2 cells that are inverted will sit deeper in towards the tail cap as the springs won’t be on that end, but on the block end instead. Smaller springs perhaps, to facilitate loading the cells to start the threads. The cells themselves are held in place within the tube by it’s machining.

I have a 12” × 12” × 1/2” thick pcb plate of flame resistant material made for electronics. I think I’ll give it a go with that or with some 3/4” thick G10 I have.

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The carrier would be removed to insert all four batteries, no need to remove the tailcap. The batteries would never come into contact with the driver or tailcap, contacts would be built into the top and bottom plates of the carrier. The existing bottom spring contact plate would be removed to create more clearance.

DBCstm wrote:
There’s only 0.30” between the cells in the M6. Maybe a square shaft?

A solid square shaft would be best as long as it is oriented correctly during assembly.
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Otanacious wrote:

Otanacious wrote:

LED-DNA just got XHP70s listed (OoS), on Al most likely though.

They’re purchasable now bare only, XHP50s also with $1.50 extra to be mounted on a sinkpad


That is very tempting…. but I think i’ll wait a few weeks to see if the cost comes down at all.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

RMM
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DBCStm, I think that the TK75 extender kit is a go.  Just need to get a new cap or get the tube rethreaded.  

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DB Custom
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I thought it might work but didn’t know about the threads. Figured if nothing else, the carrier is good. Wink

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RMM wrote:
You mean this?

I don’t trust myself to not screw up at some point with it, let alone other people who may pick up the light.   I think that a dedicated battery carrier may be in order.  Bore out the M6 tube and slide it in.  

Just to be clear: I’m not mocking Mike C’s build, in fact I think it’s quite cool, but it’s just not for me.


That’s why I suggested a contact plate. I’m making a new driver for another light and will not use springs in it like I did with the M6, I’m making a contact plate that can take twisting as it’s the only feasible way of opening this particular light. As long as you fix the pole specific contact plate on the battery side of the tube you can twist it however you like, as the contact plate on the head side will have round “leads”. Of coarse, fixing it to the battery side is the crux, but for me it’s worth solving that rather than running 8 × 18350s.

However, a dedicated battery carrier would be even better, but I’d hate to have to boar out the M6 body. I think I’d go with a different host to start with… but of coarse, if you can boar out the M6 and provide battery carrier for it, you’ll have at least one customer for the host and carrier Smile

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So I’ve been going through many design iterations for this M6 battery carrier / floater plate thing-a-ma-jig for the last half of the day.. The cheapest, least invasive, safe, and quick design I’ve come to is this..

First, with the factory board at the tail, cut all the traces like Mike C did in this pic.

Second, remove two of the springs from opposite (diagonal) corners and replace them with a solder blob or 6×2mm brass buttons that you find at FT or MTN. Connect each of these with a mate that is still sprung with a silicone insulated wire.

Then for the hard part..

Someone (I’m trying to learn how to do it myself finally) needs to draw out an oshpark board for the front end. I have it drawn in Google SketchUp, but there’s still work to be done obviously.

The front board will look like a ‘pizza saver’ once complete, and will sandwich between the body tube and the brass driver retaining ring for the negative current path. Springs will be used on the driver side of the plate for (+) positive contact to the driver. The key design element of this setup is the four 5/16” nylon legs that will locate/center the contacts and make it impossible to rotate and short cells as it’s tightened. I spec’d out 5/16” OD by 7/16” length #4 nylon standoffs (tubes) and some oversized (#6-19) plastite type screws to secure them to the board.

marc.collin
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is it possible to get 4022 lm from this led?

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wight
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marc.collin wrote:
is it possible to get 4022 lm from this led?
Please refer to post #274 from djozz – http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36431?page=9#comment-707998

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

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ok that seem possible, will try to do it with many 22650 battery, will like to use 9.

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DBCstm wrote:
The XHP70 Shadow JM26 with DQG Tiny boost driver at 2.64A, the X6 XHP70 at 3550 and 5.43A, the X6 Triple XP-L V5 2D at over 11A, and the X6 Quad XP-G2 S3 3C…can’t find the sheet lol (10.54A, just checked it again)

!http://imageshack.com/a/img633/6967/KCgB8s.gif!


what driver do you use for for the eagle eye x6?

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I managed to order one of the XHP70 emitters from DigiKey.

Now I’m trying to figure out where to get a sink pad. Ideally, since I’m in Canada, I’m looking for a “shipped free” pad – which generally takes me to eBay first.

I’m scratching my head trying to figure out what has the same pad footprint as the XHP70. It seems like XML is too small and MTG2 is too big.

Am I missing something obvious?

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