- The Fake-Cree LED Awareness Thread - The new "low" in Budget lights.

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Tom E
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twinclouds wrote:
Hi, Tom: Can you give me some advises or references about how to swap replace the LEDs in these SK68 imitations and where and which LED I should get? I just don't want to play lottery again!

Lots of options. Hank's search reference is good. I'm planning on using up a bunch of colored XP-E2's I have, but also like XP-G2's, XP-L's, etc. Similar mods on the "slim AA zoom" light, some info here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/25402, one of my mods in post #51. Keeping the stock driver, or low amps, then you can probably stay with an aluminum MCPCB. Copper MCPCB would probably have to be sanded down to get it in focus, but again, lots of options for mounting, driver, etc.

Mitko probably has more available XP-E2's here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/37207, but qty 10 minimum, but cheap, good quality. Must be reflowed though.

twinclouds
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Thanks to Hank and Tom_E. I will try to see what I can do.
The XP-E2s look good also. However, it has no PCB. I don’t know how difficult to reflow. The most confident work I did was to resolder 8 pin flash. I also did replace rams but with mixed results.

Twinclouds

hank
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Paste this into the Search box:

how difficult to reflow

(the search navigation changes to look like this):

http://budgetlightforum.com/search?q_as=how%20difficult%20to%20reflow

(don’t worry about the %20 — that’s just copying out of the navigation window, it’s what Search does with spaces in the plain text you paste in
That will get you answers.
Remember you can also change result view from ‘relevant’ to ‘date’ to see newest first

twinclouds
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Hank: Thanks.
I will give up the reflow idea. Maybe just some LEDs already mounted on stars.
Aside from LED, another issue is the driver. I checked a few of my SK-68 collection. I found the current varies widely. The best one I have, an old (likely genuine) SK-68, takes about 2A current from a Enerlop AA battery. All others takes less than 1.6A. It looks like the light emitted is proportional to the current. (It is obvious I guess for the same LED.) Do you or anyone else have any suggestions for the driver circuits with good output current?
Thanks.

Twinclouds

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Some of the (fake) SK68s do not have slots to take them apart. The one you pointed out here http://budgetlightforum.com/node/40326 looks like it. However, I was not able to disassemble it.

Twinclouds

keltex78
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Has anyone spotted any counterfeit/Latticebright XP-G emitters in the wild? I recently purchased a 5-pack of “XP-G” emitters for a remarkably low price from one of the big overseas sellers. On installing three of them in a triple host, I found that the output was very poor, and with a horrible green tint. I immediately pulled and discarded the three I had just installed, then reflowed other emitters onto the same boards.

I’ve got a couple of the nasty emitters left, but I only have a single known-genuine XP-G emitter to compare against (from an old Manafont-purchased Ultrafire single-mode P60 dropin). Superficially, they look very much the same…


Keepin’ the “B” in BLF

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

LightRider
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twinclouds wrote:
Some of the (fake) SK68s do not have slots to take them apart. The one you pointed out here http://budgetlightforum.com/node/40326 looks like it. However, I was not able to disassemble it.

I have the same exact light. I had to pry out the driver first and then push the mcpcb out from the back. I had to give it some pretty good taps around the sides with a small punch. Eventually i was able to work it out that way.

DBSAR
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keltex78 wrote:
Has anyone spotted any counterfeit/Latticebright XP-G emitters in the wild? I recently purchased a 5-pack of “XP-G” emitters for a remarkably low price from one of the big overseas sellers. On installing three of them in a triple host, I found that the output was very poor, and with a horrible green tint. I immediately pulled and discarded the three I had just installed, then reflowed other emitters onto the same boards.

I’ve got a couple of the nasty emitters left, but I only have a single known-genuine XP-G emitter to compare against (from an old Manafont-purchased Ultrafire single-mode P60 dropin). Superficially, they look very much the same…

sadly that’s going to become the painful reality now even with buying bare and flowed emitters from overseas sellers, is that most of them may end up being these crap, low-output, horrible tint Latticebright style knock-off garbage leds.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

twinclouds
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Do you need to unscrew the aluminum cylinder that surrounds them first?
Also anybody know what is HT-PE marked on the LED star? (Edit: I found it from some previous post. It is a fake Cree XP-E. Sad )

Twinclouds

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Another fake cree XP-E
Appears to have that hole in the corner other fakes have but this one keeps the phosphor only on the die.
Why I will never buy from TMART again post# 6

tristanxoxo wrote:
Here’s a picture of the LED that Tmart gave me. It’s much too small to be a XM-L. It looks like a XP-E to me.

LightRider
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twinclouds wrote:
Do you need to unscrew the aluminum cylinder that surrounds them first? Also anybody know what is HT-PE marked on the LED star? (Edit: I found it from some previous post. It is a fake Cree XP-E. Sad )

Yes. Unscrew the aluminum housing from the outer aluminum case. I used my leatherman to poke into the aluminum to get it started. Note: VERY BAD IDEA!!! Snap! Goes the tip to my beloved cutting tool. Sad
Maybe you could use some snap ring pliers to push out in both directions to get a grip on the aluminum cylinder? Or something like that

Halo...
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Which leatherman?

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I couldn’t find where, but I think somebody suggested to drill two holes on both side of the aluminum housing first the unscrew it using snap ring pliers or the tool for openning watch’s back plate.

Twinclouds

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Halo… wrote:
Which leatherman?

The Wave
keltex78
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Latticebright XP-E clone:

Unfortunately, I don’t have a known-good XP-E on hand to post the comparison shots.


Keepin’ the “B” in BLF

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

LightRider
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The leatherman was a gift and it was engraved with my name. I just heard that I still may be able to send it in for repair under a 25 year warrenty. I’ll look into it

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Their warranty is suppose to be really good. :bigsmile: Though I would only expect one free shot with sometime like a broken knife point that is usually from improper use.

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I ordered 20 CREE XML RGBW “Warm” White LEDS from TopLightLED.com for $5 a piece. They were titled warm but they have the same specks as the neutral white. They came from China and arrived in 4 Days!!! I hope they are real? They look legit, but if someone knows how to spot the fake, please let me know.

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its difficult to say with those RGBW emitters you have there, until we can see the LB fakes up close to compare then to a genuine Cree version.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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BIG MISTAKE!!!
It’s TopLEDLight.com not TopLightLED
OOps

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What about these? They are off a SRK 10 emitter light.

No one, after lighting a lamp, puts it away in a cellar nor under a basket, but on the lampstand, so that those who enter may see the light.

My Reviews: Ma

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The bubbly base as well as the circle hole rather than square hole suggest that they are genuine. Now, I don’t really know what I’m talking about. This is just repeating what I read earlier in this thread.

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Do the bond-wires pads look round or square? for some reason the die size looks smaller than a genuine Cree XM-L, its difficult to say from those photos even though the pad coating looks stippled like a real Cree XM-L. You may need to try to compare them to any higher quality light you have with a genuine Cree XM-L.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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I would need a better picture than that to say for sure.

Mountain Electronics : batteries, Noctigon, and much more! What's new? 

kronological
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I’ll try with my camera. Only had the wife’s camera that day.

No one, after lighting a lamp, puts it away in a cellar nor under a basket, but on the lampstand, so that those who enter may see the light.

My Reviews: Ma

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PPDB22 wrote:
I ordered 20 CREE XML RGBW "Warm" White LEDS from TopLightLED.com for $5 a piece. They were titled warm but they have the same specks as the neutral white. They came from China and arrived in 4 Days!!! I hope they are real? They look legit, but if someone knows how to spot the fake, please let me know.

I just made a new picture of a XM-L colour (neutral white die) for comparison (this one is bought from IOS a year ago, so it sure is real), and your XML colour leds looks extremely like the real deal except for the bits sticking to the side on the silver background that are not present in my led. Is this just a Cree variation or is that a indication of fake? At least it looks like your leds looks more like Cree than like Latticebright:

Cree:

The orientation of the bond wires looks different in the Latticebright and the substrate is visibly whiter:

 

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keltex78 wrote:
Latticebright XP-E clone:

Unfortunately, I don’t have a known-good XP-E on hand to post the comparison shots.

Yes… It is like mine.

antiparanoico wrote:
djozz wrote:

antiparanoico wrote:
What about this one?
(Click on image to enlarge)
This is one from cheap (less $3 from ebay) “Ultrafire S6” “CREE Q5”

Wow, very convincing too, only difference I see is: the small square in the corner should be a round dot. But my first guess would be that it is a Cree led anyway.

Now side by side…

I can see that the core is smaller in the CREE, like EZ900 vs. EZ1000 in XR-E series.
It is also different as the wires are inserted into the core.


(Click on images to enlarge)

If anything can go wrong, it will.
Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.

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antiparanoico wrote:
What about this one?

This is one from cheap (less $3 from ebay) “Ultrafire S6” “CREE Q5”

Which is this one? You have any link?

Twinclouds

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I found some more counterfeit Cree emitters in my lights:

First, everyone’s favorite “Super Light”:
Fake XP-E emitter: Note the off-center die surface. The die is square, the offset is just due to the angle. Sorry about the dust…

I was one of the few to receive the $4 “XM-L” dive light when one of the retailers accidentally (?) listed the item at the wrong price earlier this spring. The light was a poor performer with very CW emitters, but the low output was attributed to the low drive current. One of these lights suffered a catastrophic leakage failure ( Oops ) and was set aside for spare parts. I checked the emitters last night, and found that they were counterfeit XM-Ls.

Pictured here, the left hand emitter is the counterfeit. Notice the smaller die size, sharp, crisp edges, well defined lines, and lighter green smooth PCB:

Here is a closeup of each emitter; fake is on top, genuine Cree on the bottom. Here you can see the bond wires and junctions more clearly:


Keepin’ the “B” in BLF

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

DBSAR
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Goog comparison photos Keltex. it seems the biggest noticible differences are the smaller die, smoother dome/coating, and coloration of the fakes from the real Cree XM-L.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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