BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

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cajampa
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Rufusbduck wrote:
Maybe try warming the head+pill without the battery tube then ice the pill and quickly twist.

My anodized A6 is bezel is also stuck, how do you mean heat the head+pill then ice the pill when the A6 has a shelf? :~

dudunphy
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cajampa wrote:
Rufusbduck wrote:
Maybe try warming the head+pill without the battery tube then ice the pill and quickly twist.
My anodized A6 is bezel is also stuck, how do you mean heat the head+pill then ice the pill when the A6 has a shelf? :~

 

Heat the part with female threads and cool the part with the male threads. People have also wrapped in tape and gently used pliers. Or also used penetrating oil leaving the light on it's head so it doesn't get in the driver. 

Dustin

cajampa
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Ok, i got it now.

So if I run it on turbo a bunch of times and use some ice or something to cool the bezel it might help to loosen the threads.

Rufusbduck
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The head and pill should unscrew from the battery tube as a unit if they’re stuck together so yes, just run it on turbo until it’s pretty warm but you can still grab it to unscrew then immediately stick the pill end on an ice cube for 5-10 seconds. A wide rubber band doubled over a few times on each piece might help with grip.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

cajampa
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YEEEESSSS Big Smile

I got i open, and it was so easy when I used all the tricks together.

First i heated it by running it in turbo a few times without holding it to get it extra hot, and while it ran I took some ice cubes and crushed them to a slush. Then i quickly removed the searingly hot head and put it head down in the ice slush for ~10 seconds. and then i used a silicon oven liner for extra grip and finally I got it open easy Smile

The threads where super gritty, but now i can at least make this anodized BLF A6 in to the triple it was always meant to be.

Thanks guys Smile

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Rufusbduck wrote:
A wide rubber band doubled over a few times on each piece might help with grip.

Thinking outside the box. Great idea.

Rufusbduck
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Good job! Dale suggested above using metal polish on the threads to smooth things out.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Rufusbduck wrote:
A wide rubber band doubled over a few times on each piece might help with grip.

I have some old rubber strip left from a rubber powered model airplane I made. There is enough of it to increase the leverage as well as the grip.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

cajampa
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Rufusbduck wrote:
Good job! Dale suggested above using metal polish on the threads to smooth things out.

Thanks, it is always even more rewarding when you do succeed after failing a bunch times Smile

About the gritty threads, i cleaned them with a toothbrush and greased them with some raw organic coconut oil. And now they are smoooooth Wink

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Coconut oil as thread lube?

I usually go with a teflon-based (PTFE) grease… though I’ve been lazy about it lately and have like a dozen lights I haven’t properly cleaned and lubed yet.

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I have some “Super Lube” from The O-ring Store, but am going back to furniture wax with carnauba, bee’s wax and orange oil. It seems to be more slippery.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

cajampa
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Coconut oil as thread lube?

I usually go with a teflon-based (PTFE) grease… though I’ve been lazy about it lately and have like a dozen lights I haven’t properly cleaned and lubed yet.

Yeah it works great, i don’t use thread lubes that are going to get close to my skin that i can’t eat, :bigsmile: and coconut oil dosen’t go rancid because of the mct component in it.
And if it gets on your skin it is an amazing skin oil.

I would never use fluoride based compounds(teflon) close to my skin, i don’t even use teflon based cookware only ceramic coated ones, stainless and glass, teflon is nasty toxic stuff :Sp

cajampa
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Fritz t. Cat wrote:
I have some “Super Lube” from The O-ring Store, but am going back to furniture wax with carnauba, bee’s wax and orange oil. It seems to be more slippery.

Interesting, furniture wax could be a good alternative.

I think i am going to experiment with some coconut oil, bees wax, jojoba & liquid lanolin oil combination to see if i can get a longer lasting and even slipperier thread lube.

If anyone wants to try, the trick is to heat them up together so they mix before gently cooling them down.

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Doesn’t the non-conducting Lube increase the resistance?

(There is a post somewhere that even the supposedly conducting-lube is non-conducting.)

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I don’t think lubricants increase resistance, because they are squeezed out where the metals touch. There is a thin film that may remain, but that doesn’t seem to affect resistance(?) They reduce corrosion that does add resistance, especially in things that haven’t been used for a while. I think lubrication also helps by slowing the wear of gold plating. The gold is another way of avoiding corrosion.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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Weird maybe, but it seems after I Nyogel bare or close to bare threads, I always seem to get a little more out of the lumens measurements - same cells, everything else the same. Just did that last night, and I've seen it several other times. Nyogel is supposed to be non-conductive, but still seems like the best thing around. I'm so glad a while back I bought a large tube from a BLF member, who bought up a bunch of ol Motorcraft tubes for cheap.

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For laughs:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?186243-conductive-lube

“Forget conductive lube. It doesn’t conduct.”

“Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread”:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?242414-Comprehensive-...

As I said at that time, I am still thoroughly confused about non-conducting/conducting lube on threads.

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Tom E wrote:
Nyogel is supposed to be non-conductive,
Nyogel 760g is supposed to be conductive.

“NyoGel® products were developed for wide-temperature applications requiring water and salt-water resistance. The 774 series consists of silica thickened synthetic hydrocarbon of various viscosities depending upon how much mechanical dampening is required of various components. The damping greases also provide good water resistance.

The 756 series utilizes a silica thickened hydrocarbon that includes the incorporation of carbon black since it was designed to be electrically conductive for instrument and bearing applications.”

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BLightSam wrote:
Tom E wrote:
Nyogel is supposed to be non-conductive,
Nyogel 760g is supposed to be conductive. “NyoGel® products were developed for wide-temperature applications requiring water and salt-water resistance. The 774 series consists of silica thickened synthetic hydrocarbon of various viscosities depending upon how much mechanical dampening is required of various components. The damping greases also provide good water resistance. The 756 series utilizes a silica thickened hydrocarbon that includes the incorporation of carbon black since it was designed to be electrically conductive for instrument and bearing applications.”

I'm probably wrong but it's weird: can't find any spec on it yet that says it's conductive.

Here: http://newgateonline.com/media/wysiwyg/Nye-TDS/TDS_NyoGel_760G.pdf

Here: https://www.armytek.com/products/accessories/grease/nyogel-760g.html

Here: http://www.nyelubricants.com/stuff/contentmgr/files/0/cd4ec0f4a93c98f4b26ce8e7fc8544e6/misc/760g_overview.pdf

Here: http://www.nyelubricants.com/nyogel

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While we’re off topic, I would like to say that the lubricant thing is way overdone. The battery tube going into the pill up top should be left alone, dry contact between the two conductive components is best. At the tail, where the battery is removed to charge on a regular basis, only the smallest amount of lube to prevent the o-ring from tearing should be utilized. This will find it’s way onto the threads whether you like it or not, and will need to be cleaned regularly or you’ll be wearing black thread stripes. I try to keep it from being on the bare end of the tube and the contact point in the tail cap as much as possible.

I’ve had to repair lights where someone used way too much lube and the resulting black mess down in the tail cap virtually blocked the pcb from making contact. Thoroughly cleaned the amperage went up to the expected values.

Brylcream, a little dab’ll do ya. Wink

NyoGel 756G—-Electrically Conductive

Obviously, too much of this can migrate into the driver and short it out. Not good.

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Tom E wrote:
Here: http://www.nyelubricants.com/nyogel
It seems you are correct. 760g is not conductive, but the above site does not state that. On the other hand 768g is supposedly conducting, but the above site does not even mention the product.

Discussion on Nygel here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/21125

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As I said before, my observations with Nyogel 760G say something different with dependency on quality of threads a big variable in all this, but of course lubes like Nyogel 760G should be used lightly and maintained properly. I've never seen it turn dark gray on anodized threads like on Convoy's and Eagle Eyes or this Manker BLF A6 for that matter, but on bare alum threads that are frequently used, yes, of course the aluminum micro fragments will stick in the lube and build up with more and more usage, turning it into dark gray sludge, specially if it's over applied.

I did not specifically check output results with/without Nyogel on a stock BLF A6. I just take it for granted it's better with than without it from past experiences, but once in a while when I have checked it before/after, it's either equal or better after applied to both head end and tail end of the body tube threads.

cajampa
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Tom E wrote:

Weird maybe, but it seems after I Nyogel bare or close to bare threads, I always seem to get a little more out of the lumens measurements – same cells, everything else the same. Just did that last night, and I’ve seen it several other times. Nyogel is supposed to be non-conductive, but still seems like the best thing around. I’m so glad a while back I bought a large tube from a BLF member, who bought up a bunch of ol Motorcraft tubes for cheap.

Sounds interesting, but the discussion you all had after this post just made me confused :~

Exactly what kind of Nyogel are you talking about?

EDIT
I guess from post #356 the 760G kind?

EDIT2
At least Nyogel 760G looks to be pretty much non toxic.
http://www.nyelubricants.com/stuff/contentmgr/files/0/cd4ec0f4a93c98f4b2...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ArmyTek-Nyogel-760G-Flashlight-Silicone-Grease-C...

EDIT3
It is almost impossible to stay away from something that could give an output boost so i think i will have to try it sooner or later.

Can you Tom E give a hint on the range we are talking about, is it about 1%-2% when it does go up?

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Here is an oddity that was first reported by markr6 at CPF.

Not sure it matters but mine is set to no memory, 4 mode. I guess that means I don't have "moonlight", but instead low. Shouldn't matter but maybe it does?

Using a naked NCR18650GA.

1. Turn light on with full click (now in low)
2. 3 half presses to get cycle to turbo
3. Let it sit for 45 seconds, watch it step down, wait a few seconds
4. Long half press to reverse cycle. It will go down to low (or first mode) but not any further (NO turbo>strobe>batt check>bike mode)
5. Turn light off for a bit, say, 10 seconds. Still won't reverse into special modes.
6. Wait another 10 seconds and everything works fine.

By following Mark's instructions, I was able to replicate this behavior.

Thanks, Mark.

I tested one of my A6 flashlights. It has the same bug!

I repeated the test, but entered Turbo mode directly from low. Same result. I also repeated the test in the mode group with 7 output levels. Same result.

One thing that seems odd is that the long half press in your step 4 seems to jump directly to low (4 modes) or moonlight (7 modes). I expected it to simply go to the next lower level. In the mode group with 4 modes, for instance, the lowest mode is level 1 and the highest mode is level 4. After the 45-second timeout in level 4, the light steps down to level 3. From there, a long half-press should go to level 2, not level 1.

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Mine behaves the same in reference to turbo step down, except I don’t have the problem in your last paragraph.

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ToyKeeper has programmed 3 press styles, a short press bumps modes forward, a medium press engages reverse, and a long press takes the light back to the beginning or in this case low. So it’s working exactly as programmed.

Waiting 10 seconds and seeing it repeat the process makes me think there is an issue with the off-time capacitor.

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KeepingItLight wrote:

Here is an oddity that was first reported by markr6 at CPF.

Not sure it matters but mine is set to no memory, 4 mode. I guess that means I don't have "moonlight", but instead low. Shouldn't matter but maybe it does?

Using a naked NCR18650GA.

1. Turn light on with full click (now in low)
2. 3 half presses to get cycle to turbo
3. Let it sit for 45 seconds, watch it step down, wait a few seconds
4. Long half press to reverse cycle. It will go down to low (or first mode) but not any further (NO turbo>strobe>batt check>bike mode)
5. Turn light off for a bit, say, 10 seconds. Still won't reverse into special modes.
6. Wait another 10 seconds and everything works fine.

By following Mark's instructions, I was able to replicate this behavior.

Thanks, Mark.

I tested one of my A6 flashlights. It has the same bug!

I repeated the test, but entered Turbo mode directly from low. Same result. I also repeated the test in the mode group with 7 output levels. Same result.

One thing that seems odd is that the long half press in your step 4 seems to jump directly to low (4 modes) or moonlight (7 modes). I expected it to simply go to the next lower level. In the mode group with 4 modes, for instance, the lowest mode is level 1 and the highest mode is level 4. After the 45-second timeout in level 4, the light steps down to level 3. From there, a long half-press should go to level 2, not level 1.

 

I think it's been said before the heat from turbo mode really messes with the capacitor. So click timing after running turbo is really whacky. I tried mine and got some weird results as you said but super fast clicks do run the modes forwards. Not necessarily a bad thing being that I've not really needed turbo for long periods let alone needing to go into strobe or bike afterwards. 

Dustin

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Hey guys and gals,
My BLF A6 showed up today along with my blue Convoy S2+ host.

My plan was to change over the tail switch from the S2+ to the A6, but fortunately the whole S2+ tail switch threads onto the A6 tailcap. unfortunately the A6 tailcap does not fit on the S2+.
Mode switching and programming all work flawlessly.
Here’s the proof

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KeepingItLight wrote:

Here is an oddity …
cycle to turbo … Let it sit for 45 seconds … Long half press to reverse cycle … won’t reverse into special modes.

Wait another 10 seconds and everything works fine.


Known issue, and to be expected. The off-time capacitor they used is sensitive to heat, so the button timings change depending on the temperature of the light. While hot, it’s faster… and while cold, it’s slower.

This effect was reduced by 80% before production, but not eliminated entirely.

If you use one of RMM’s drivers instead, the heat sensitivity is reduced by like 95% so it’s barely noticeable even when very hot or very cold. RMM uses the best available components, and he has an improved board design.

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Design might be improved even more by relocating the cap to the spring side.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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