Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

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XXX-Man
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Got my Q8 today (30 minutes ago) and I LOVE it Big Smile

Mine is without bigger problems, some small but not that important.

button leds: one 50% brighter than other, but work – can live with it, but would like to fix that
driver screws: not stripped, look ok to me
tail pcb screws: one really stripped, 2 stripped but usable, one looks ok – don’t care, will replace them probably someday
emitters: 2 centered, 2 off centre? – looks like mistake when soldering? not really a problem to me
reflector: few dust pieces – nothing I care about
brass ring: almost no dirt
driver and tube contact: full circle – I would say perfect
outside: no scratches

Conclusion: nothing to complain about really, but I would like to fix button leds if possible

I need to remember all configuration button combinations some day, but ramping is so easy to use anyone can do it without problem. My dad got it the first time I explained.

Question:
Should button leds be on when light is on? Mine are on when light off, and off when light on.

"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."

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BrianK
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Yes, they are off when the light is on. I wonder if there’s a switch in the UI that keeps them on all the time? I’d like them that way on mine.

teacher
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Joey Adams wrote:

Lol, it also appears that his wife isn’t nearly as big of a flashlight fan as he is!
You know… I think your right Joey!!! She looks more the Mini Mag Light type… Wink
I think that guy is considering an upgrade……

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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DB Custom
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I thought the guy was looking for a better lantern for his doghouse. . . .

saypat
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nice that production has resumed…..

any progress, or word on, or methodology, on those with defective lights? thank you.

BrianK
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My brothers light came in today, all looks good. No buggered up screws, the LEDS are both similar brightness. I’ll burn them in for him for 24 hours or so to prove them. I think all of the bad switch LEDs have failed in the first few hours. If I’m wrong could someone please let me know?

The Miller
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XXX-Man, actually two non properly flowed LEDs seem like an issue to me.
How handy are you?
Would be good to at least see how they are mounted, the cooling of the LEDs goes through the little DTP part of the ledboard.

saypat wrote:
nice that production has resumed…..

any progress, or word on, or methodology, on those with defective lights? thank you.


Hang in there, solutions are being debated and we will wait for the first 500 to arrive to know exactly how many are affected.
BrianK check manual, if you can’t turn them on you have the issue too and need to be added to the OP list.
Please report
Tom Tom wrote:
The Miller wrote:
RapidLux nice Lol at 1024

Pity he didn’t catch 768 Smile


Yeah but for some reason 1024 is such a nice round number while 768 doesn’t do it for me Wink
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DB Custom wrote:
I thought the guy was looking for a better lantern for his doghouse. . . .
He probably was shortly after that picture was taken. Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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The Miller
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BrianK wrote:
My brothers light came in today, all looks good. No buggered up screws, the LEDS are both similar brightness. I’ll burn them in for him for 24 hours or so to prove them. I think all of the bad switch LEDs have failed in the first few hours. If I’m wrong could someone please let me know?

Yes all do work out of the box.
Those that fail do so in the first day.
So all are encouraged to play a lot with their Q8 the first days Big Smile
BrianK
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TM, mine are on and working perfectly and I burned them in for 24 hours so I think I’m good. But I’d like them on permanently and not turning off when the light is switched on. I don’t see anything labeled that in the information I have.

XXX-Man
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The Miller wrote:
XXX-Man, actually two non properly flowed LEDs seem like an issue to me.
How handy are you?
Would be good to at least see how they are mounted, the cooling of the LEDs goes through the little DTP part of the ledboard.

I can dismount it tomorrow and will report.
You are right cooling could be problem, didn’t think about that.
Visually i don’t mind it.

"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."

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The Miller
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Yes please post about how the LEDs are flowed!

BrianK wrote:
TM, mine are on and working perfectly and I burned them in for 24 hours so I think I’m good. But I’d like them on permanently and not turning off when the light is switched on. I don’t see anything labeled that in the information I have.
You need an software update for that.
I have seen Tom react to it so it is likely it will be added at some point
chinooker
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[/quote]Looks like the guy in the picture has his eye on the BLF Q8 too. ;)[/quote]

Looks like he especially appreciates the battery tube.
Prolly thinking about tailstanding it.

Lowtech
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FYI… i removed my driver and it was not sitting flat.

Seem there was a pile of dried glue around 1 of the screws.
Easyly removed but anoying.

teacher
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chinooker wrote:
Quote:
Looks like the guy in the picture has his eye on the BLF Q8 too. Wink
Looks like he especially appreciates the battery tube.
Prolly thinking about tailstanding it.
Hmmmm…. interesting observation. Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

patmurris
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Based on data posted by RapidLux :

RapidLux wrote:
BLF Q8 Group buy sale statistics, Using UTC+2 time.

Notes:
Values extrapolated from 17 to 24 included (16 preorders/day).
Latest count per day was used to produce the chart.

Disclaimer: this chart is probably not suited to determine whether an order placed at a given time and date falls into one Q8 production batch or not. Only one value per day is represented, not accounting for hourly variation inside a day. Translating dates to another time zone is also a source of error. It’s mostly showing the rate at which preorders where placed during the coupon validity preriod.

pommie
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Thank you patmurris, mine was ordered about 13:00 (utc+10) on the 8th, so its a coin toss if I am in the next batch or not Cool

Cheers David

Nothing to see here folks, move along...

Lexel
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we have 500 lights shipped, only 1500 of 2. batch are preorders
so your graph shows total orders

patmurris
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Lexel wrote:
we have 500 lights shipped, only 1500 of 2. batch are preorders so your graph shows total orders

That’s right.
Preorder count as displayed on BG Q8 page i think.

JasonWW
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ISO wrote:
Testing imgur

How to show picture

How do i make the picture show up without link ?


You take your image link, then along the top of the comment box you will see an orangish box next to a green film strip. Click the box and a window will pop up. Paste your link into the top line then click ok. I also usually set the size to 95% so it doesnt show up huge.

Keep in mind that sometimes imgur will give you an image link that is missing the .jpg on the end. So if you see that, just add the .jpg to your link. Or .png if it is that type of image.

Sometimes imgur just gives you a bad link. So I right click on the image and open the image by itself on a new page. Then I can copy that url.

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BrianK wrote:
TM, mine are on and working perfectly and I burned them in for 24 hours so I think I’m good. But I’d like them on permanently and not turning off when the light is switched on. I don’t see anything labeled that in the information I have.

It’s currently not possible. The menu options allow turning off the switch light all the time, but not keeping it on all the time.

You could physically move the switch led wire off the mcu leg and onto a constant positive source. My 2 non Q8 narsil lights are like this. I like them on all the time. It makes it easy to know if they are locked out or not.

Franz
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So, the refund came 3h earlier this post and my order now is canceled for sure….. Sad

Pity but not the end of wolrd, thanks to all and sorry for not join for the team I will order this light in the future or with sale offer.

Thumbs Up
BrianK
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JasonWW wrote:
BrianK wrote:
TM, mine are on and working perfectly and I burned them in for 24 hours so I think I’m good. But I’d like them on permanently and not turning off when the light is switched on. I don’t see anything labeled that in the information I have.

It’s currently not possible. The menu options allow turning off the switch light all the time, but not keeping it on all the time.

You could physically move the switch led wire off the mcu leg and onto a constant positive source. My 2 non Q8 narsil lights are like this. I like them on all the time. It makes it easy to know if they are locked out or not.

That’s beyond me, but thanks.

What isn’t beyond me is to glue some tritium vials near the switch to mark it. Old school but it works. My old numb hands simply can’t find the switch in the dark. I don’t fault the designers, if they are younger they couldn’t know the issues that age brings on.

Dang! This is one very nice light! I’ve only had it for 1 day and it has already moved the M43 into storage. It’s takes deliberate effort to put the Q8 into “other modes” or to screw up the programmed settings and that was SO easy to do with the M43; at least it was for me. I was frequently reprogramming my settings. Easy to re-program but a PITA.

FWIW, my brothers light has had the switch LEDs lit for 8 hours and all is good. OK, so I have 3 Q8s and not one of them has switch LEDS that are noticeably different in output or are failing. I’m thinking the problem lights are actually few and the owners of those lights have been heard from. Again, these are very nice lights! I suspect the majority are exactly what was desired. If TF has fixed the few issues they have a winner on their hands!

The wife came down the hall as I was checking out bro’s light this afternoon when I had it on turbo waiting for timed step down and she mentioned (full daylight outside allowed to come inside), “Wow, it’s definitely bright in there!”. Ceiling bounce was very noticeable to her in addition to the full daylight.

I eagerly anticipate my brother getting his hands on this light I’m testing. I have another brother who placed his order directly. It’s going to be interesting to read his take on it when he emails me. Neither one has a hotrod light now but are Li-Ion aware.

Litefighter
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Just received shipping notifications for my three back ordered units!

boostedsubie
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Shipped!!

staticx57
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Shipping notice!

rizky_p
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just got my Q8, the design look nicer in person. and I think TF did a good job. I dont have problem with unbalanced switch light and the screw heads are in good condition. Let see if the switch led problem occur latter. Thanks to all Q8 Team. Thumbs Up

qandeel
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just checked my orders. My 2 lights are marked shipped too.

 عُمَانْ

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Tom Tom wrote:
Flintrock wrote:

So I noticed a post by TA Tom E that someone had 135uA through the switch LED and it didn't work, then lowered the resistance and had 155uA and then it did work.

 

I don't think that's a Vf issue and I never felt Vf variability would cause this, although it depends how close the diode Vf is to the supply voltage.  It could cause mismatch in the LED's when driven through a single resistor but it shouldn't cause them to quit entirely, and 155uA to 135uA probably shouldn't either.  That looks like some kind of leakage current problem, like 135uA isn't real functional diode current, thus it not making light.  Is it normal for an LED to have a minimum turn-on current?

 

 

Its much more complicated, the LEDs are being operated on the knee of a very rapidly reducing curve, not a nice flat region (datasheet Vf). A few microamps difference could make all the difference between lighting up nicely or not. Most of the microamps will not be going into making light, at these low levels, the majority will just be leaking through the compound semiconductors in the LED, to no effect. It is far from a linear relationship between current and light output at these infinitesimal levels, and this is on the ragged edge. Edit: and the actual "Vf" will be varying hugely with tiny changes of current at these low levels. Amazing it can work so well with just a series resistor, it is absolutely not just a simplistic Vf=x, current = y, thus therefore voltage drop across resistor = Vbatt (variable) -(Vf at current =y), apply Ohms law, resistor defined, whack it in. Oh no.

 

I think JasonWW's post answered some of question, possibly, that the current referred to was not just the led current, which I guess wasn't directly measured.

 

Yes, I get how the Vf curves for led's work below spec. The thing is, you don't care how much voltage is across it, only how much current goes through it.  So it depends how it's driven.  For example, if you drive a 1V led with a 10V source in series with a 100k resistor, you're going to get about 100uA of current. There's no way Vf is shooting up above nominal 1V, and it can't go below 0V.  Either way between 90 to 100% of the 10V drop is across the 100k resistor and 9 to 10V across 100k fixes the current in series through both the resistor and the diode to somewhere between 90 to 100uA, pretty tight, without knowing anything about how sharp that kink is.

 

Ok, this gets worse when the diode voltage gets closer to the source voltage.  So for a nominal green diode voltage of 2.1V and a source of 3V anywhere between 0.9V and 3V can drop across the series resistor.  So that's a factor of almost 3 (pesimistically, if we know NOTHING about the kink).  But even still a factor of three change in current probably shouldn't take the LED from being just fine, to presenting no light.

 

Ok, if the battery really is at 3V then the output of the mcu pin may be more like 2.5, so that starts to be problematic, now we have voltage rage across the resistor of 0.4V to 2.5V so > 6 times variation, but again, that's very pesimistically assuming these diodes can have 100% variation in performance and that's at the lowest battery levels.  What was seen happened even with fully charged batteries.  I can't quite rule it out entirely with this logic, but it seems far fetched to me that Vf fluctuation should cause the observed results.

 

This is all much easier to think about if you consider current through the resistor, and treat the diode as an unknown.

 

Anyway, in the end I think we're saying the same thing, that it's the leakage, not Vf per se that is the issue, although a higher Vf could result in a higher leakage, so they're related.  And yes, if they're really being driven at 20uA (155-135), wow.  Yeah, maybe there's 10uA of leakage current in the diode.  It seems to me that's maybe just driving them too low.  If the mcu has 135uA of leakage anyway, just double it and aim for 260 total.  Then there's probably no problem.  A factor of 3 off in led current will still work then.

 

 

 

 

 

 

srs2000
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Mine was just marked as shipped.

The time from production stopping, fixing the issues, and shipping is remarkable.

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