Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

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CircaM
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Streamer][quote=CircaM wrote:
https://www.amazon.com/Powerful-Flashlight-Searchlight-Configurable-Professional/dp/B0773Q46D3/

here’s the code Coupon Code: (30% OFF)

Same code I received.
Wasn’t sure if they were unique or if they might not have wanted it shared publicly.

The emails tone seems to suggest that they want verified reviews to help boost their sales rank on Amazon.

vwpieces
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The links I posted you could only buy one light per order but you could make more than one order on that code. It IS still valid and Amazon only shows 4 left in stock.

Streamer
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CircaM][quote=Streamer wrote:
CircaM wrote:
https://www.amazon.com/Powerful-Flashlight-Searchlight-Configurable-Professional/dp/B0773Q46D3/

here’s the code Coupon Code: (30% OFF)

Same code I received.
Wasn’t sure if they were unique or if they might not have wanted it shared publicly.

The emails tone seems to suggest that they want verified reviews to help boost their sales rank on Amazon.

OK, just received same email about 30 min. ago. So I’m guessing Thorfire has my contact info through previous Banggood Q8 group buy??? Oh the power of the WWW. Shocked
ETA: so glad got mine from batch 2 for $40. Smile

CircaM
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Streamer wrote:

OK, just received same email about 30 min. ago. So I’m guessing Thorfire has my contact info through previous Banggood Q8 group buy??? Oh the power of the WWW. Shocked

Banggood probably sold out our info. They have really been doing wrong by most of their customers in every other category. Anything Banggood can do to make/save money, they are doing it now, customers get to suffer from Banggood’s greed.

JasonWW
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I like it when I get coupons by email for things I might actually want.

It’s the other crap I’d never buy that irks me. Buying Canadian medicine? Junk mail.

BTW, Banggood has stores on Amazon and Aliexpress.

Keisari
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Tom E wrote:

Bob_McBob wrote:
I’m not sure what happened, but one of the cells was dead after the test (reading 0.8V right now and dropping). They are new flat top GAs, but I haven’t had any issues with uneven drain. The light did get rather hot.

Hhmm. Might have triggered a safety cutoff. Think I heard/read even unprotected cells have some built-in safety circuitry. You might be able to “wake it up” by applying some juice to it – cheaper chargers can do it as well. Same way we can wake up a dead protected cell when the low voltage of the PC trips.


At this time of the day I don’t know if this was meant as a joke, but I have to clarify anyway in case of any uninformed readers taking this seriously.

“Unprotected” means just that – the lack of any protection (by the means of an added protective circuitry). Unprotected li-ion cells do, however, have safety features including more than those inherent in the chemistry, materials, insulation etc. Such devices include over-pressure valves and fuses or a combination of these; in case of cylindrical cells, typically found under the positive contact. These are irreversible and will cause the cell to read a dead 0 volts when they operate correctly. These will also not activate from overdischarging or just from overcharging by itself. When they do, it’s often quite dramatic.

Just going very rapidly from about 2.5 to 0.8 volts is not indicative of a protective measure activating, just a feature of the li-ion chemistry. However, this is not expected behavior in most typical LED flashlights like the linear regulated or FET driven variety. This IS expected in various other scenarios including a dead short.

Mistaking electrically protected batteries for non-protected ones is common, though. It’s not unheard of that unprotected li-ion batteries were sold as protected and vice versa.

JasonWW
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Maybe unprotected cells have fuseable links under one of the end caps?

Keisari
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JasonWW wrote:
Maybe unprotected cells have fuseable links under one of the end caps?

Mostly they should have that; a pressure relief valve that permanently opens under a high internal pressure, designed to prevent/interrupt a thermal runaway during an internal short, a dead short or other overload event. It appears this can be missing in cells of questionable quality.

They can also have an actual fuse that melts at high temperature(even caused by a high temperature inside the cell itself), and the pressure relief valve can be separated in two stages: open circuit at a certain pressure, release pressure at a higher treshold.

The cell should read 0 volts after the activation of these features and show a very high resistance, refusing to accept charge at all.

A “protected cell” as a device consisting of an unprotected cell and a protection circuit will also have the same features as the original cell.

d_t_a
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I’d like to ask, how difficult is it to update/flash the firmware of the BLF Q8? – does it require soldering? – any special tools needed to remove the head to access the driver chip for flashing?

RapidLux
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d_t_a wrote:
I’d like to ask, how difficult is it to update/flash the firmware of the BLF Q8? – does it require soldering? – any special tools needed to remove the head to access the driver chip for flashing?

I think you will need these two,
1. ATmega/ATtiny 51 AVR ISP USBASP USB Programmer Downloader
2. 40-pin Splittable Ribbon Cable

JasonWW
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d_t_a wrote:
I’d like to ask, how difficult is it to update/flash the firmware of the BLF Q8? – does it require soldering? – any special tools needed to remove the head to access the driver chip for flashing?

According to ToyKeeper, the first batch lights had led wires long enough that you just undid the 2 screws holding the driver down and you could tilt the driver enough to get the clip on.

The later batches switched to slightly shorter led wires and those require unsoldering them from the mcpcb in order to rotate the driver enough to get the clip on but still allow enough room to reflash.

Overall, quite easy.

JasonWW
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RapidLux wrote:
d_t_a wrote:
I’d like to ask, how difficult is it to update/flash the firmware of the BLF Q8? – does it require soldering? – any special tools needed to remove the head to access the driver chip for flashing?

I think you will need these two,
1. ATmega/ATtiny 51 AVR ISP USBASP USB Programmer Downloader
2. 40-pin Splittable Ribbon Cable


Nice links, does Fasttech carry a clip as well?
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JasonWW wrote:
According to ToyKeeper, the first batch lights had led wires long enough that you just undid the 2 screws holding the driver down and you could tilt the driver enough to get the clip on.

The later batches switched to slightly shorter led wires and those require unsolder in them from the mcpcb in order to rotate the driver enough to get the clip on.

FWIW, I can access my first-batch and second-batch Q8s’ drivers for reflashing without desoldering anything.
JasonWW
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goshdogit wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
According to ToyKeeper, the first batch lights had led wires long enough that you just undid the 2 screws holding the driver down and you could tilt the driver enough to get the clip on.

The later batches switched to slightly shorter led wires and those require unsolder in them from the mcpcb in order to rotate the driver enough to get the clip on.

FWIW, I can access my first-batch and second-batch Q8s’ drivers for reflashing without desoldering anything.

That’s what ToyKeeper said.

But hey, it’s good news if it’s that easy. Thumbs Up

ToyKeeper
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JasonWW wrote:
That’s what ToyKeeper said.

Not quite.

JasonWW wrote:
According to ToyKeeper, the first batch lights had led wires long enough that you just undid the 2 screws holding the driver down and you could tilt the driver enough to get the clip on.

The later batches switched to slightly shorter led wires and those require unsolder in them from the mcpcb in order to rotate the driver enough to get the clip on.

Don’t listen to me, I have a sample size of one. Listen to Tom. Smile

The second batch is shorter, but should still be long enough to reflash without soldering. Tom measured several and found the wire lengths were very consistent and just long enough.

As for flashing info, click the Link in my signature or use the “README” in the code repository.

JasonWW
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ToyKeeper wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
That’s what ToyKeeper said.

Not quite.

Oops, sorry about that. I edited my earlier post.

Sometimes my memory is really sharp, but most of the time it can be pretty bad. Lol

d_t_a
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Quote:
JasonWW wrote:
According to ToyKeeper, the first batch lights had led wires long enough that you just undid the 2 screws holding the driver down and you could tilt the driver enough to get the clip on.

The later batches switched to slightly shorter led wires and those require unsolder in them from the mcpcb in order to rotate the driver enough to get the clip on.

Don’t listen to me, I have a sample size of one. Listen to Tom. Smile

The second batch is shorter, but should still be long enough to reflash without soldering. Tom measured several and found the wire lengths were very consistent and just long enough.

As for flashing info, click the Link in my signature or use the “README” in the code repository.

Thanks for those info, ToyKeeper. That’s great to know. And of course, allow me to thank you and Tom E for programming all these nice firmware (although I’m still trying to learn about them…)

RapidLux wrote:
d_t_a wrote:
I’d like to ask, how difficult is it to update/flash the firmware of the BLF Q8? – does it require soldering? – any special tools needed to remove the head to access the driver chip for flashing?

I think you will need these two,
1. ATmega/ATtiny 51 AVR ISP USBASP USB Programmer Downloader
2. 40-pin Splittable Ribbon Cable

I’ve ordered these 3 items a couple of weeks ago, waiting for them to arrive, maybe in a week or two..

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-New-USBASP-USBISP-AVR-Programmer-USB-ISP-USB-ASP-ATMEGA8-ATMEGA128-Support-Win7-64K/32809542958.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-Programmer-Testing-Clip-SOP8-SOP-SOIC-8-SOIC8-DIP8-DIP-8-Pin-IC-Test/32402561848.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/40pcs-lot-10cm-2-54mm-1pin-feMale-to-feM...

Any idea if the item you linked — “ATMEGA/ATTiny51 AVR ISP USBASP Programmer” is better (can flash more chip types?) or just the same with the one I ordered “ ATMEGA8 ATMEGA128 AVR ISP USBASP Programmer” — what are the differences between various programmer devices?

CRANK
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Just received my Q8 that I ordered through Amazon with coupon code. How can I tell if this an updated version and if it has coated lens?

JasonWW
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CRANK wrote:
Just received my Q8 that I ordered through Amazon with coupon code. How can I tell if this an updated version and if it has coated lens?

Coated lens is easy, just see if the reflection in it is blueish.

V2 lights have different screws. They are more domed shaped and are usually not mangled. There were some pictures here, but I can’t find them.

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Which firmware version is the Amazon Q8?

in RAMPING: Triple-click, double-click, double-click

There shouldn’t be any batch 1 lamps left. And the coated lens shouldn’t be any longer on new lamps. It made a visual tint shift vs. an only measureable brighter light (you couldn’t see it)

CRANK
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JasonWW wrote:
CRANK wrote:
Just received my Q8 that I ordered through Amazon with coupon code. How can I tell if this an updated version and if it has coated lens?

Coated lens is easy, just see if the reflection in it is blueish.

V2 lights have different screws. They are more domed shaped and are usually not mangled. There were some pictures here, but I can’t find them.


Yep it has domed screws. Now to figure out how to mount it to a bicycle securely
JasonWW
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joechina wrote:
Which firmware version is the Amazon Q8?

in RAMPING: Triple-click, double-click, double-click

There shouldn’t be any batch 1 lamps left. And the coated lens shouldn’t be any longer on new lamps. It made a visual tint shift vs. an only measureable brighter light (you couldn’t see it)


I dont think the Q8 has recieved the newer firmware yet, has it? Tom just finalized it a couple weeks ago. Has it officially been updated? There’s not much talk about it here.
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If in doubt… just do the Firmware check. It is next in line after Battery check.

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blinker
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teacher wrote:
If in doubt… just do the Firmware check. It is next in line after Battery check.

What do you mean, “next in line after Battery check.”?

Not a flashlight guru, but like them just the same.
Misspellers of the world UNTIE!!!

DavidEF
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CRANK wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
CRANK wrote:
Just received my Q8 that I ordered through Amazon with coupon code. How can I tell if this an updated version and if it has coated lens?

Coated lens is easy, just see if the reflection in it is blueish.

V2 lights have different screws. They are more domed shaped and are usually not mangled. There were some pictures here, but I can’t find them.


Yep it has domed screws. Now to figure out how to mount it to a bicycle securely

Well, it has the tripod mount screw hole. As long as you had some way to keep it from spinning around, the mounting to a bicycle is pretty easy. Get a pipe clamp the right size. Clamp it onto a tubular part of your bike. Put a bolt through it and screw the bolt into the tripod hole. I’m not sure, but I think an electrical conduit ‘stand-off strap’ would be the cheapest and most widely available. One way you might be able to keep it from spinning at the tripod hole is to use a back-up nut to make it extra tight.

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

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Depends on how bumpy your route is but I’m not sure if I would trust the tripod mount hole for fixing the (heavy) Q8 to a bike, in combination with some form of strap it should be ok.

JasonWW
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blinker wrote:
teacher wrote:
If in doubt… just do the Firmware check. It is next in line after Battery check.

What do you mean, “next in line after Battery check.”?

I have not tried this, but when you are in battery check mode, if you dbl click it takes you to a temperature readout (blinks out temperature) then another dbl click will blink out the firmware number (either a 1 or 1.2). This is listed in the cheat sheet for the Q8.
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CRANK wrote:
Now to figure out how to mount it to a bicycle securely
Long before the Q8 appeared, I modified a 2” (50mm) theater lighting ‘truss clamp’ to securely hold my Noctigon Meteor, which doesn’t have a tripod mount.

The Q8’s tripod mount is very useful, but this method is much sturdier for mounting lights to a car, bicycle, ATV, or other moving/vibrating object.

The 2” (50mm) clamp fits the Q8 perfectly.


I posted about my truss clamp modifications here with more photos.

Truss clamps are available in several sizes and styles. I like the ‘quick release’ style like the one pictured above. Search eBay and Amazon for options.

There are also clamps that fit 1-1/4” to 1-3/8” (32mm to 35mm) tubing.

Depending on your bike’s dimensions and mounting location, perhaps you could combine two clamps to create an adjustable mount?

DavidEF
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djozz wrote:
Depends on how bumpy your route is but I’m not sure if I would trust the tripod mount hole for fixing the (heavy) Q8 to a bike, in combination with some form of strap it should be ok.

Yeah, you’re probably right.

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

blinker
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I’ll check it out, thanks.
Version 1.0 in both my 2nd batch lights.

Not a flashlight guru, but like them just the same.
Misspellers of the world UNTIE!!!

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