Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

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MtnDon
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Neko2 wrote:
I checked all four batteries on a meter and they all read around 357 or slightly higher.

Do you mean 3.57 volts? That should be sufficient to light up, but not on the highest outputs.

Have you access to any other known to be working light that you can try a cell in?

Neko2
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Sadly, it’s the first (and only) 18650 light that I own.

I’m not even a novice with electrical. Computers, printers and gadgets, heck yeah but once it gets to the nuts and volts, I’m pretty clueless.
I was measuring DC and I think I had it set to 2000m.

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Neko2 wrote:
So I finally managed to check the connections and everything seems to be nicely attached. I didn’t see any scorch marks or anything obviously amuck.

I decided to pick up another light to test and it won’t light either. I’m guessing that there’s a problem with the batteries or that I have two dud lights, which seems pretty unlikely.

I checked all four batteries on a meter and they all read around 357 or slightly higher.

Any better way to test the batteries without another light?

Any other ideas?

I’m thinking of picking up a new set of batteries but am trying not to spend a fortune just trying to get it working.

Hopefully I can get up to speed and learn a few things along the way.

Thanks everyone!


What kind of battery charger do you have?

Are you inserting them with the correct polarity? Button tops against the big brass ring?

If you have a digital multimeter set it to DC voltage. If you have to choose a voltage range, use 10v to 20v. Verify it’s working by measuring some AA or 9v battery. Something you know is not dead. Fully charged they should be 4.20 volts or close. The lowest they should ever get is 2.5v. The Q8 flashlight gives a warning at 3.0v and will turn off power at 2.8v.

Any videos or pictures might help us. Your issue seems very strange so it might be something simple that’s being overlooked.

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MtnDon
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Neko2 wrote:
I was measuring DC and I think I had it set to 2000m.

I think we are on different wavelengths here…. not sure you have the multimeter set for DC volts…. I have no idea what the “2000m” you mention is. Can you post a picture of the meter set the way you are using it?

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MtnDon wrote:
Neko2 wrote:
I was measuring DC and I think I had it set to 2000m.

I think we are on different wavelengths here…. not sure you have the multimeter set for DC volts…. I have no idea what the “2000m” you mention is. Can you post a picture of the meter set the way you are using it?

2000mV FS, and if so, that means 0.357V, which is kinda scary.

No wonder it doesn’t turn on.

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Neko2 wrote:
I was measuring DC and I think I had it set to 2000m.
Move your meter to the ‘20’ setting for DC voltage and try again.

Here’s a quick guide to using a non ‘auto-ranging’ meter like yours.

MtnDon
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I guess I’ve been badly spoiled by my autoranging meters. Facepalm

Neko2
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Good morning!

I’m attaching some photos to help clarify.

Here’s a shot of the batteries positioning in the tube.

Here’s a shot of the driver/contacts.

And a shot of a battery on the (cheap) meter.

Also. I dont have a picture of it but I’m using a nitecore four slot charger.

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pics are too small, I can not read the setting on the multimeter, but i guess that you are at 0.355 V

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MtnDon wrote:
I guess I’ve been badly spoiled by my autoranging meters. Facepalm

The funny thing is that I have a nice autoranging meter and just can’t find where I put it.
I (with the help of a good tutorial) was testing a couple electrical outlets back before Christmas.

I guess it’s good that I have a cheap backup.

I’ll change the settings and report back in a bit.

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At 20 DC, I’m getting 0.35.

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Sorry about that. They were supposed to link.
I’ll fix them in a bit.

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0.35V basically means that your batteries are dead, too much discharged to be considered safe, even if they do charge up again.

I wonder how that could have happened inside a Q8? When the light is switched on it has a low voltage protection and will shut off with the batteries still at 2.8V. When off, the green indicator light will drain your batteries lower because of the small drain/MCU not powered, the LVP will not work (at least that is what I have understood), but that green led uses so little power that it should drain the batteries in years, not weeks.

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Yes, don’t try to charge them. Keep them at a safe place and dispose them properly.

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battery at 0,35V ? wow.. that is kinda insane low… all individual give those kind of readings ? thats not even half a volt if thats true…. i havent seen anyone post such a low voltage….

I wonder if those batteries are even legit and not some garbage cells..

Really toss these batteries its just dangerous to try them in a light and turn them on, dont charge them either! Facepalm

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Neko2 wrote:

I checked all four batteries on a meter and they all read around 0.357 volt or slightly higher.

I’m thinking of picking up a new set of batteries but am trying not to spend a fortune just trying to get it working.


Unless you used the batteries in some device that ran them way way down, you recieved bad cells. You should contact the company you bought them from and explain that they never worked and you just now bought a multimeter and measured their voltage at 0.35v so they are ruined. See if they will send you replacement cells.

The first thing you should check when buying new batteries is the voltage. They usually get shipped around 3.4-3.8v. Never fully charged due to airline safety rules. If they arrive to you below 2.5v then they are ruined. Once a lithium ion cell goes below 2.5 volts it forms crystals inside which screws up the chemistry. If you put it on a charger it can get dangerously hot and possibly vent or catch fire. So mark those batteries as ruined and don’t use them. It’s not worth the risk.

If you dont have a warranty, usually Banggood has good prices on button top 30Q. I got 4 for $20 shipped a year ago, but at the moment they seem to be $29 shipped.

Illumn.com has them locally for $22 plus shipping.

IMR Batteries has them for locally for $24 plus shipping.

Hopefully you can get them replaced at no cost.

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mortuus wrote:
battery at 0,35V ? wow.. that is kinda insane low... all individual give those kind of readings ? thats not even half a volt if thats true.... i havent seen anyone post such a low voltage.... I wonder if those batteries are even legit and not some garbage cells.. Really toss these batteries its just dangerous to try them in a light and turn them on, dont charge them either! :FACEPALM:

 

Well, good thing I didn't try to charge them *twice* after it stopped working. Facepalm Facepalm

 

 

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since u are from usa, buy from illumn or something that sells legit stuff and u be fine.

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Oh wait, I see your earlier post where they did work, but now they don’t. I’m guessing they got drained while in the light. This should definitely not happen unless you have a defective driver.

What you need to do is measure the parasitic drain on your light. You do need at least one proper battery to do it so this may have to wait till you get one, but here is the whole procedure.

Basically you can use one cell and hold it on the head like this similar light.

You keep your test leads in their current meter spots which is COM and V Ω mA.

Then set the dial to the green DCA section 200m. Apply the test leads to connect the ground side, but leave the flashlight off. The light should blink twice, then wait about 5 seconds and it will go to sleep mode. Then you can get a reading. Assuming it’s not overloaded, you can switch the dial to the next 20m then 2000μ and then 200μ. Normally this light measures about 30μ when asleep (green switch light off, with green light on about 130μA) which is super low amperage. Since you might have a big drain, we start at the higher 200m setting and work our way down.

It’s pretty rare for these lights to have a big drain, but they do happen from time to time. If both your lights check out fine, you might have had one bad battery which was self discharging. Since they are all in parallel, one bad cell could pull the other three down. This is also pretty rare. 30Q are very high quality cells. Still, something happened and we need to find the source of the problem.

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JasonWW wrote:

If you dont have a warranty, usually Banggood has good prices on button top 30Q. I got 4 for $20 shipped a year ago, but at the moment they seem to be $29 shipped.

Illumn.com has them locally for $22 plus shipping.

IMR Batteries has them for locally for $24 plus shipping.

Hopefully you can get them replaced at no cost.

The batteries I have came with the light (bought it used) so I’m not sure I’ll have much luck getting them warrantied.

I’ve got a set on the way from Illumn and I’ll make sure to pop them on the meter, then charge before using.

If these die, I’ll report back, since there’s probably something wrong with the light at that point.

Thanks for all the help.

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JasonWW wrote:
Oh wait, I see your earlier post where they did work, but now they don’t. I’m guessing they got drained while in the light. This should definitely not happen unless you have a defective driver.

What you need to do is measure the parasitic drain on your light. You do need at least one proper battery to do it so this may have to wait till you get one, but here is the whole procedure.

Basically you can use one cell and hold it on the head like this similar light.

You keep your test leads in their current meter spots which is COM and V Ω mA.

Then set the dial to the green DCA section 200m. Apply the test leads to connect the ground side, but leave the flashlight off. The light should blink twice, then wait about 5 seconds and it will go to sleep mode. Then you can get a reading. Assuming it’s not overloaded, you can switch the dial to the next 20m then 2000μ and then 200μ. Normally this light measures about 30μ when asleep which is super low amperage. Since you might have a big drain, we start at the higher 200m setting and work our way down.

It’s pretty rare for these lights to have a big drain, but they do happen from time to time. If both your lights check out fine, you might have had one bad battery which was self discharging. Since they are all in parallel, one bad cell could pull the other three down. This is also pretty rare. 30Q are very high quality cells. Still, something happened and we need to find the source of the problem.

I have a flat top Samsung 26FM and since I’m holding it in place, thought it would work for the test.
I get -08.7 on the 200m setting on my old light and -05.6 on the new one.

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Neko2 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:

If you dont have a warranty, usually Banggood has good prices on button top 30Q. I got 4 for $20 shipped a year ago, but at the moment they seem to be $29 shipped.

Illumn.com has them locally for $22 plus shipping.

IMR Batteries has them for locally for $24 plus shipping.

Hopefully you can get them replaced at no cost.

The batteries I have came with the light (bought it used) so I’m not sure I’ll have much luck getting them warrantied.

I’ve got a set on the way from Illumn and I’ll make sure to pop them on the meter, then charge before using.

If these die, I’ll report back, since there’s probably something wrong with the light at that point.

Thanks for all the help.


Why risk ruining 4 new cells? It’s pretty easy to measure parasitic drain. Then you know if there’s a problem or not.

I wonder if the person sold it because they knew it had a drain problem? Maybe. If the driver is bad, you can get another for $10. To swap drivers requires soldering 5 wires.

If you can’t solder, well, another option to “fix” it is to just twist the battery tube when your done using the light. This cuts all power. It won’t drain at all. This is the best way to store a light.

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JasonWW wrote:

Why risk ruining 4 new cells? It’s pretty easy to measure parasitic drain. Then you know if there’s a problem or not.

I wonder if the person sold it because they knew it had a drain problem? Maybe. If the driver is bad, you can get another for $10. To swap drivers requires soldering 5 wires.

If you can’t solder, well, another option to “fix” it is to just twist the battery tube when your done using the light. This cuts all power. It won’t drain at all. This is the best way to store a light.

I posted the drain I’m seeing on both lights 1 post up.

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Neko2 wrote:

I have a flat top Samsung 26FM and since I’m holding it in place, thought it would work for the test.
I get -08.7 on the 200m setting on my old light and -05.6 on the new one.


I think your not waiting the 5 seconds for the reading to change. On my light I initially see 5.2mA (milliamp), but then it drops to 0.11mA.

Just a note, I said the parasitic drain should be about 30μA (microamp). I was going from memory and that is with the green light turned off. With the green light turned on it’s about 130μA (0.13mA).

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JasonWW wrote:
Neko2 wrote:

I have a flat top Samsung 26FM and since I’m holding it in place, thought it would work for the test.
I get -08.7 on the 200m setting on my old light and -05.6 on the new one.


I think your not waiting the 5 seconds for the reading to change. On my light I initially see 5.2mA (milliamp), but then it drops to 0.11mA.

Just a note, I said the parasitic drain should be about 30μA (microamp). I was going from memory and that is with the green light turned off. With the green light turned on it’s about 130μA (0.13mA).

With the green light on, it starts at -08.7 then drops to -03.6 after the 5 seconds.
Both are over reading for the μA settings.

To make sure I’m doing this right, should I have the black on the inner threads or the outer ring of the driver?

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Neko2 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Neko2 wrote:

I have a flat top Samsung 26FM and since I’m holding it in place, thought it would work for the test.
I get -08.7 on the 200m setting on my old light and -05.6 on the new one.


I think your not waiting the 5 seconds for the reading to change. On my light I initially see 5.2mA (milliamp), but then it drops to 0.11mA.

Just a note, I said the parasitic drain should be about 30μA (microamp). I was going from memory and that is with the green light turned off. With the green light turned on it’s about 130μA (0.13mA).

With the green light on, it starts at -08.7 then drops to -03.6 after the 5 seconds.
Both are over reading for the μA settings.

To make sure I’m doing this right, should I have the black on the inner threads or the outer ring of the driver?

Usually the test probe polarity doesn’t matter for current, but if you see a negative number, just switch the leads around. It should read the same just without the minus sign. Oops, I misunderstood. Pressing against the outer driver ring is best.

So the 8.7mA drops to only 3.6mA after 5 seconds? That’s 30 times too high. Let’s see, with 4 × 3,000mah cells that’s 12,000mah ÷ 3.6mA is 3,333 hours or 138 days for it to go from 4.2v down to about 2.8v or so. Let’s say you were pretty low on power when you last used it, say 3.2v. About 30 days doesn’t seem like enough time to drain it to below 2.5v. Especially since the parasitic drain tends to drop a bit as the voltage drops. Weird, I might be off in my numbers, though. Also, the drain might vary based on what’s causing it. It might have been worse before you checked it over. Stuff like filtering capacitors can short or 7135 chips can leak. Who knows? You’d really have to trace the current leak to find the problem.

Did you check the new light?

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JasonWW wrote:

Did you check the new light?

It appears to ramp down. It goes from 5.6mA to 118μA after the 5 sec.

I double checked the old one and it doesn’t ramp down any further.

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Neko2 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:

Did you check the new light?

It appears to ramp down. It goes from 5.6mA to 118μA after the 5 sec.

I double checked the old one and it doesn’t ramp down any further.


Okay, that’s good. That’s what it’s supposed to be.

So something on that first lights driver is bad. With a decently powerful soldering iron you can swap drivers. Maybe you know someone who solders?

Or else just always twist the battery tube after your done using it.

Here’s the link to the driver if you are interested.

#Aliexpress US $9.52 | BLF Q8 Driver Chip Q8 Circuit Board
https://a.aliexpress.com/_suu82e

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Awesome, thanks!

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