BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

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dudunphy
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Could not have explained that any better. Thanks D.B.!

Wink He’s gonna hit that 10k mark faster than we originally thought!

Dustin

jofus
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DB Custom wrote:
If the light won’t turn off it’s probably due to the little nub in the center of the rubber boot being too long. You can click the light on, but the nub won’t let it come back out far enough to disengage.

Take the retaining ring out of the tail cap, pull out the switch board and the boot/spacer assembly and try them outside the light to see if that’s the issue. Easy enough to trim a slice off this nub, just don’t get carried away or the boot actuation will be mushy. The rubber boot should sit on top of the switch cleanly, not be held up above it. Cut off the nub as much as it’s being held high. This might not make sense reading it, but if you’re holding the switch in your hand and see it, you’ll understand. Just remember that the piece that looks like a washer is a spacer, the switch sits against this with the switch post going through the middle. So the boot should sit flat on the washer.

This is really easy, no soldering involved. Simply use tweezers or needle nose pliers to unscrew the brass retaining ring, then pull the parts out or push the rubber boot through with your finger from back to front.

thanks for the reply. i tried this, but it did not solve my problem. i cut a very small amount from the nub, which did not work. i proceeded to cut small sections off and testing, but it never worked. i eventually ended up with the boot actuation becoming mushy like you mentioned. still nothing. below is a picture of the trimmed nub next to the untrimmed nub from my extra boot.

DB Custom
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Does the switch work properly (click in and out) when it’s out of the light?

jofus
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yes, it appears to. i have a second light that works perfectly, so i took the switch out to compare. they both look and sound the same.

i should add that every once it a while it does turn off. however, i’ll leave it sitting on a desk and it’ll randomly come back on. blinded me a few times, haha.

Fritz t. Cat
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I have my A6 driver that I ordered from Banggood on December 3rd. It looks nice.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

Rufusbduck
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Take the switch and test it for continuity with a meter. It shouldn’t stay on. Check it both installed and out of the tail cap. I had one with abnormally high resistance that I had to swap. Fortunately this is easy to do.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

DB Custom
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Sounds like the switch is heat damaged from soldering it onto the pcb. Too much heat traveling into the plastic switch via the metal tabs can soften and deform the plastic inside the switch, causing it to hang up. Just a little and it might only hang up from time to time, very much and it won’t work at all.

I’d say the switch needs to be replaced. This is relatively easy, it’s always a good idea to hold the tab where it goes into the body of the switch with a pair of tweezers or hemostats or needle nosed pliers to act as a heat sink and hold back that heat from entering the body of the switch.

Also a good idea to touch some solder, or use solder paste, on the pre-fitted tab end where it is going onto the board. The idea is to make it as quick a solder joint as possible and still be solid.

Care also needs be taken when on the other side of the pcb, doing a spring bypass can actually flow plastic into the via’s from the switch getting too hot, and more often than not the switch action will be compromised after an event like this. I like to take the switch off, do the spring through bypass or standard just-inside-the-spring bypass, then re-mount the switch.

Ask me how I’ve learned all this. Wink By burning up switches and stuff, of course! lol

RustyShackleford
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DB Custom wrote:

Ask me how I’ve learned all this. Wink By burning up switches and stuff, of course! lol

I did the exact same thing.

hank
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Quote:
They use a circular centering ring hole that completely clears the square die substrate

Anyone know where to buy these centering rings?
Is it possible to get the kind that sticks onto the LED board instead of sticks to the reflector, so it stays in place when the reflector is removed?

Yeah, I like to experiment with optics.

Rufusbduck
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The butterfly type aren’t sticky but are a tight press fit to the substrate and stay put when the reflector is removed. The lip is not as prominent either.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

timbo114
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DB Custom wrote:
As far as group changes go, it is said to half press *16 times* +OR UNTIL THE LIGHT STOPS RESPONDING+, then the first 2 blinks will set group and the second 2 blinks will set memory. Should be pretty obvious, the light has to be on to respond. So for clarity, yes, turn the light on, then rapidly half press 16 times (the light will cycle through the levels repeatedly during this process) When the light quits producing light (stops responding) watch for the set of 2 blinks and click off during this time to set group mode, or wait for a second set of 2 blinks to set memory mode by clicking off within the 2 blink time frame. I am very very forgetful, but this UI sticks in my mind easily for some reason. I've found it easy and pleasurable to use since it was first introduced to me months and months ago.

Is it possible to select the 4 mode group WITH memory function?

I can get the 7 mode w/MEM ,  but cannot yet attain the 4 mode w/MEM.

dudunphy
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You should be able to fast click to the first two blinks then shut it down between blinks. Turn light on again fast click and wait for second set of blinks and shut it down. Be sure to check the diagram on the first page. Smile

Dustin

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timbo114 wrote:
Is it possible to select the 4 mode group WITH memory function?

I can get the 7 mode w/MEM ,  but cannot yet attain the 4 mode w/MEM.

You are already in mode memory by the “second” set of 2-blinks. The “first” set of 2-blinks toggles the 7/4 modes. Turn off after the first blink of the first set of 2-blinks for the 4-mode.
timbo114
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Got it!

 

Thanks for the tip.

DB Custom
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Shutting the light off during the 2 blinks in the configuration mode enables that option. So if you want to toggle between 7 and 4 modes, turn it off during the blinks on the first set. To enable or disable memory, turn the light off during the second set of blinks. I usually click it off between the two blinks, but even immediately after the second blink will do the job.

4/7 and memory are independent of each other, but it does take entering the configuration mode a second time to access either or.

JonnyC
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I received my A6 and had the same issue with the switch never disconnecting, so the light was always on.  Switch worked fine outside of the tailcap, but once any pressure was applied to the switch housing, which happens when the retaining ring is tightened in the tailcap, it never disconnects.  Luckily I had a spare switch lying around that I swapped onto the board (no clue how many amps it can handle) to make the light work correctly.

I'm contacting the email address in the first post to see if they can send out a replacement.  However, is this the best switch to go with?  Is there a better one I can swap in there?

Side note:  huge thanks to everyone involved.  I honestly didn't read much about the light, just saw the specs and the huge amount of people in the group buy, so I ordered.  I'm seriously impressed with the firmware, makes me jealous that TK was able to pack so much logic into one tiny 13a Smile

KeepingItLight
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JonnyC wrote:

I received my A6 and had the same issue with the switch never disconnecting, so the light was always on.  Switch worked fine outside of the tailcap, but once any pressure was applied to the switch housing, which happens when the retaining ring is tightened in the tailcap, it never disconnects. 

This sounds like something we saw in our get-together in Oakland   on Sunday. The rubber switch cover is too tight, so it presses ever so slightly on the switch, breaking the connection.

JonnyC
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KeepingItLight wrote:

JonnyC wrote:

I received my A6 and had the same issue with the switch never disconnecting, so the light was always on.  Switch worked fine outside of the tailcap, but once any pressure was applied to the switch housing, which happens when the retaining ring is tightened in the tailcap, it never disconnects. 

This sounds like something we saw in our get-together in Oakland   on Sunday. The rubber switch cover is too tight, so it presses ever so slightly on the switch, breaking the connection.

That's what I thought at first too, but it was actually a faulty switch. Just giving a heads up in case anyone else has the problem.  I ordered a few switches from Mtn Electronics, so we'll see how they do (although the one I swapped in seems to be holding up fine so far).

dudunphy
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JonnyC wrote:

I received my A6 and had the same issue with the switch never disconnecting, so the light was always on.  Switch worked fine outside of the tailcap, but once any pressure was applied to the switch housing, which happens when the retaining ring is tightened in the tailcap, it never disconnects.  Luckily I had a spare switch lying around that I swapped onto the board (no clue how many amps it can handle) to make the light work correctly.

I’m contacting the email address in the first post to see if they can send out a replacement.  However, is this the best switch to go with?  Is there a better one I can swap in there?

Side note:  huge thanks to everyone involved.  I honestly didn’t read much about the light, just saw the specs and the huge amount of people in the group buy, so I ordered.  I’m seriously impressed with the firmware, makes me jealous that TK was able to pack so much logic into one tiny 13a Smile

Not sure if this is the right size. Pretty sure it would work. But I’m guessing if RMM carries it that it will handle direct drive. I also keep hearing about omten. But someone more experienced will know what you need.

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_83...

Seems to have large traces Wink and some via’s to help out the load.

Dustin

JonnyC
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I went with this, the Omten 1288, and will solder it to the included board.

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_83&product_id=404

Rufusbduck
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dudunphy wrote:
JonnyC wrote:

I received my A6 and had the same issue with the switch never disconnecting, so the light was always on.  Switch worked fine outside of the tailcap, but once any pressure was applied to the switch housing, which happens when the retaining ring is tightened in the tailcap, it never disconnects.  Luckily I had a spare switch lying around that I swapped onto the board (no clue how many amps it can handle) to make the light work correctly.

I’m contacting the email address in the first post to see if they can send out a replacement.  However, is this the best switch to go with?  Is there a better one I can swap in there?

Side note:  huge thanks to everyone involved.  I honestly didn’t read much about the light, just saw the specs and the huge amount of people in the group buy, so I ordered.  I’m seriously impressed with the firmware, makes me jealous that TK was able to pack so much logic into one tiny 13a Smile

Not sure if this is the right size. Pretty sure it would work. But I’m guessing if RMM carries it that it will handle direct drive. I also keep hearing about omten. But someone more experienced will know what you need.

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_83...

Seems to have large traces Wink and some via’s to help out the load.


Too tall by almost 5 mm. The mini omten is only 8 mm tall. It might work if you trim the rubber post in the cap.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Roadie
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Is there a red filter similar to the one below that fits the BLF A6? I think it’ll be useful with moonlight mode for stargazing or astrophotography.

Herb Tarlek
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Roadie wrote:
Is there a red filter similar to the one below that fits the BLF A6? I think it’ll be useful with moonlight mode for stargazing or astrophotography.

I’m interested as well; with the 18350 tube it would be especially useful to use while fishing. I’ve looked around a little, but since I don’t know all the places to look for parts, I have no idea whether something is available or not.

I want a cool white light about as much as I want Cool Ranch Soda.

 

"Gerecht pointed his light. Like us, he was carrying an eyeball-melting flashlight that carried for a long ways. Monster Hunters wanted all the lumens." --Larry Correia, Monster Hunter: Siege

keengeorge
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Roadie wrote:

Is there a red filter similar to the one below that fits the BLF A6? I think it’ll be useful with moonlight mode for stargazing or astrophotography.

Herb Tarlek wrote:
Roadie wrote:
Is there a red filter similar to the one below that fits the BLF A6? I think it'll be useful with moonlight mode for stargazing or astrophotography. !{width:50%}https://img.fasttechcdn.com/383/3838005/3838005-3.jpg!:https://www.fastt...
I'm interested as well; with the 18350 tube it would be especially useful to use while fishing. I've looked around a little, but since I don't know all the places to look for parts, I have no idea whether something is available or not.

Good Day Roadie, & Herb Tarlek, Smile

 

Have a look here:

   Nitecore Filters

   http://flashlight.nitecore.com/product-category/filter

 

Btw, Banggood & Fasttech usually sell them.

 

Best Regards,

George

Roadie
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Good day George! Thanks for your reply. I found a 23mm inner diameter one for nite core, but the BLF A6 is 24mm. Are those thing somewhat stretchable? Or is there one for 24mm light?

keengeorge
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Roadie wrote:
Good day George! Thanks for your reply. I found a 23mm inner diameter one for nite core, but the BLF A6 is 24mm. Are those thing somewhat stretchable? Or is there one for 24mm light?

G'Day Roadie, Smile

 

I have the 40mm one, and it is made with a soft thick slightly stretchable black silicone rubber material.  Wink

 

Best Regards,

George

Roadie
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keengeorge wrote:

Roadie wrote:
Good day George! Thanks for your reply. I found a 23mm inner diameter one for nite core, but the BLF A6 is 24mm. Are those thing somewhat stretchable? Or is there one for 24mm light?

G’Day Roadie, Smile

 

I have the 40mm one, and it is made with a soft thick slightly stretchable black silicone rubber material.  Wink

 

Best Regards,

George

That’s awesome George! Thank you for your help!

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Is this driver suitable for a (paralel) triple? The fet part probably is, but I doubt the other modes will be handled correctly.

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CrashOne wrote:

Is this driver suitable for a (paralel) triple? The fet part probably is, but I doubt the other modes will be handled correctly.

It runs my triple fine.

dudunphy
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CrashOne wrote:

Is this driver suitable for a (paralel) triple? The fet part probably is, but I doubt the other modes will be handled correctly.

I learned a few things. Get the proper copper spacer (heat management is very important for this driver), I probably won’t be running it with my 30q’s anymore (too many amps), don’t run d.d. too long.

Dustin

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