BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

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Rufusbduck
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If you do that you’ll want the wrenches located over thicker parts or doubled layers like where threads overlap. Avoid the reflector area since the wrench could more easily crush that. I would reinstall the battery tube and apply the tape over both it and the pill section so the battery tube could reinforce the pill then a separate set of wraps on the bezel with the wrench located down the bezel where the pill threads can reinforce it as well. The tape alone might improve grip to the point you can wrestle it open. What 3-4 layers or more?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Rufusbduck wrote:
If you do that you’ll want the wrenches located over thicker parts or doubled layers like where threads overlap. Avoid the reflector area since the wrench could more easily crush that. I would reinstall the battery tube and apply the tape over both it and the pill section so the battery tube could reinforce the pill then a separate set of wraps on the bezel with the wrench located down the bezel where the pill threads can reinforce it as well. The tape alone might improve grip to the point you can wrestle it open. What 3-4 layers or more?
That’s essentially what I did. Taped over the thickest parts leaving the joint free of tape and also had the battery tube in for more support. Had at least 4 layers but I can’t recall exactly how many, and definitely as far from the reflector as possible. Using smaller wrenches is better in this case. It only took a small push on the pipe wrenches to get the parts moving. And once it did I took the wrenches off and just unscrewed the rest by hand. The important thing is to get some movement.

It goes without saying that you have to put the wrenches on the tubes so that the jaws tighten as you try to loosen the parts, and of course that means that you don’t have to overly tighten the jaws onto the tubes. If one reverses it then it’s not going to work well Sad

I have some lock jaw pliers I could have used as well but I happened to have the pipe wrenches in a tool box where I was and didn’t feel like going down to the basement.

tonglarry1
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Thank you for all you help. I unscrew it finally, as I used rubber band.

Rufusbduck
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Thumbs Up of course!

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

techieman33
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Hoping you can help me out here. I was stupid and put two 18350’s in my A6 and it flashed really bright and now all I get is what looks like 4 moonlight modes. Did I break something? Does it need to be reset somehow?

tonglarry1
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Working Voltage: 2.8-4.35v
It might break the driver or LED. You can order the new driver from banggood.

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techieman33 wrote:
Hoping you can help me out here. I was stupid and put two 18350’s in my A6 and it flashed really bright and now all I get is what looks like 4 moonlight modes. Did I break something? Does it need to be reset somehow?
tonglarry1 wrote:
Working Voltage: 2.8-4.35v It might break the driver or LED. You can order the new driver from banggood.

http://www.banggood.com/BLF-A6-A17DD-L-FET1-2_8-4_35v-74-Modes-Flashlight-Driver-p-1009980.html

Using f65358 coupon, $5 plus shipping fees.

Sorry for my bad English (gogole transtorla)

Rufusbduck
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You have to be able to solder the emitter wires. Emitter might also be damaged

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I would test the emitter and drivrr first before making any orders.

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and since you’re in the US, buy the replacements from mtnelectronics rather than the cheaper ones from China.
You’ll get a better-built driver, and a warranty that’s worth something.

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I received my first BLF A6 on Friday, and can not get it to switch to mode memory or other mode groups. (i hate the standard next-mode set up and its finicky interface, and some times it won’t even turn on at all.
edit: i tried many, many times following the directions of the config, but can not get it to access the hidden modes, batt-check, reverse-mode switching, or go into mode memory. all it can do is switch between the 4-modes or the 7-modes groups, nothing else, and seems to be stuck in next-mode setting only.

Second edit: – i tried a hundred times, the 0.5 or sec press, and the 0.5 to 1.5 sec press, all half-press durations no matter what the time delay is, it always go to next higher mode. ( NOT backwards to the lower mode, or to the hidden modes. ) I have never gotten so frustrated in a flashlight as i have with this one right now. i believe i ended up with a DUD. gonna teat this light with a .300 Winchnester magnum resistance test soon. Angry

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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DBSAR wrote:
I have never gotten so frustrated in a flashlight as i have with this one right now.
Been thru that myself. Hope this helps:

After 15+ short taps, you go into so called configuration mode. After 15+ taps, light goes OFF and then there will be two sets of two blinks. The first set of two blinks toggles 7-/4-mode, and the second set of two blinks toggles memory mode on/off. You toggle a setting by turning off BETWEEN the two blinks.

To toggle mode memory, for example, after 15+ taps, light goes OFF, blink, blink, and then blink. You now turn off — before the second blink. You now set mode memory. Turn off the light. Turn on the light and go to Turbo. Turn off light and then turn on. You should now get Turbo.

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Doesn’t matter what settings you have specified, it should never be next-mode memory. Something is physically wrong with that driver/light. I’d check for stray solder in the tailcap first, tben check for a good connection on the offtime cap on the driver

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

DBSAR
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BLightSam wrote:
DBSAR wrote:
I have never gotten so frustrated in a flashlight as i have with this one right now.
Been thru that myself. Hope this helps:

After 15+ short taps, you go into so called configuration mode. After 15+ taps, light goes OFF and then there will be two sets of two blinks. The first set of two blinks toggles 7-/4-mode, and the second set of two blinks toggles memory mode on/off. You toggle a setting by turning off BETWEEN the two blinks.

To toggle mode memory, for example, after 15+ taps, light goes OFF, blink, blink, and then blink. You now turn off — before the second blink. You now set mode memory. Turn off the light. Turn on the light and go to Turbo. Turn off light and then turn on. You should now get Turbo.

Tried all that many times. It does nothing to change the mode setting gs on my light.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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pilotdog68 wrote:
Doesn’t matter what settings you have specified, it should never be next-mode memory. Something is physically wrong with that driver/light. I’d check for stray solder in the tailcap first, tben check for a good connection on the offtime cap on the driver

I checked & tried everything. It is stuck with next mode memory and can not access any hidden modes or the batt check at all.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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It sounds like your capacitor is either not draining at all or incredibly slowly. That means the driver always thinks you “short-pressed” (to use TK’s terminology) no matter how long the light was off.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

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DBSAR
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pilotdog68 wrote:
It sounds like your capacitor is either not draining at all or incredibly slowly. That means the driver always thinks you “short-pressed” (to use TK’s terminology) no matter how long the light was off.

looks like i got a dud..

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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I am about to trash this pile of junk. checked over the driver solder connections, switch connections, everything is ok. it is just stuck without any hidden modes, and has only next-mode memory and cant change it. I also broke off the tip on my snap ring pliers trying to get that threaded driver loose, and ended up scratching up the threads using pliers to get it loose. It looks nice, but a flashlight that has only next-mode memory and not work as its supposed to is a waste of money no matter how pretty it looks. Sad

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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Probably a dumb question…but where’d you get the light from?

John 1:5 "The Light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it."

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cdjaney wrote:
Probably a dumb question…but where’d you get the light from?

From the GB link in the BLF A6 topic.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

cdjaney
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Ahhhh…well….i would hope you could get them to do an exchange. I was wondering if there might have been a chance of a “fake”…but sounds doubtful.

John 1:5 "The Light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it."

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cdjaney wrote:
Ahhhh…well….i would hope you could get them to do an exchange. I was wondering if there might have been a chance of a “fake”…but sounds doubtful.

not worth an “exchange”, to ship the light back to china would cost 4 times its worth.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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Dbsar we know you have modding ability, why not ask banggood (or neal directly) for them to ship a mew driver to you?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Rufusbduck
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Prolly more fun to put it in front of a bullet. Try hitting it end on for a challenge. Personally I would try for a driver swap but then I don’t own a .300.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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DBSAR wrote:
Tried all that many times. It does nothing to change the mode setting gs on my light.
The major problem with the first batch was bad soldering in the head assembly. My problem — getting into the configuration mode — got “fixed” after BG sent me a head assembly replacement without sending in the head assembly as with many others.
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pilotdog68 wrote:
Dbsar we know you have modding ability, why not ask banggood (or neal directly) for them to ship a mew driver to you?

I did send a note through Banggood about the defective driver, but have not heard back yet.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

DBSAR
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Rufusbduck wrote:
Prolly more fun to put it in front of a bullet. Try hitting it end on for a challenge. Personally I would try for a driver swap but then I don’t own a .300.

its a nice light, but hate the next-mode memory its stuck in. Its disappointing too to receive such an anticipated custom light that supposed to be perfected to our design & wishes, but to get only a defective one.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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Rufusbduck wrote:
Prolly more fun to put it in front of a bullet. Try hitting it end on for a challenge. Personally I would try for a driver swap but then I don’t own a .300.

This one for problem solving. Its permanently fixed properly. Silly

 

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I know this is an A6 thread but I recently bought an Astrolux S41 which if I understand correctly uses the same driver. The light worked fine for a week then all of the sudden it started stepping down through each mode after a few seconds until it shuts off and its as if mode memory turned itself on as well. I figured it was low voltage protection so I tried a fresh cell, same thing. I am using EagleTac 16340 and Soshine 18650 cells. I do not have any unprotected cells to try as I just prefer protected ones for safety. It worked great for a week though on both cells and others have used protected cells with no issues so I doubt thats the problem. Both driver and tailcap switch retaining rings are tight and I also tried bypassing the tailcap completely with the same issues. Any ideas on a fix?

DBSAR
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Now the driver in my BLF A6 is stuck in low mode. (wont change modes at all) Banggood said there were going to send me a new driver, but don’t know when.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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