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comfychair
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If it's still got the stock Qlite firmware on it (or any fast-PWM 19kHz firmware), it's not going to whine. It has nothing to do with the hardware. Even a bone stock 7135 105C will whine (causes the switch to make noise) when using phase correct 9.4kHz firmware.

Rufusbduck
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Both the 2502 and this are stable using smaller cells. The 2502 up to 1.5A and and the LFPAK56 up to 3A don’t need the resistors using the fast pwm but with decent cells both need the 100 ohm resistor for stable modes. I haven’t found what the maximum current is for either but they are rated at 70A and 100A respectively. Dale has sent me a few reflashed mcu’s so I can try these out with hex file you set up Comfychair. I’ll also see what the buzz is on pwm noise. I have to transfer the test led to a 20 mm sink pad as well before I can push them any harder.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Rufusbduck
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Is there a possibility of an intermediate pwm frequency?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

RMM
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I'm not sure that an intermediate frequency would help our situation much, well, maybe not for you old guys who have lost some of your high frequency perception Tongue Out.  Really though, it would probably still be audible until you hit the 18K-19K mark anyways.  I'm not sure what the hardware limitations are.

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Rufusbduck
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At least I’ll get to experience it firsthand now and try out any ideas that come up.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

djozz
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I just tested my hearing limit last week in schoolclass with the pupils, and above 14kHz I hear nothing, an intermediate frequency would work for me Tongue Out

comfychair
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The SRK board works fine with the silent 19kHz fast-PWM. Why that same firmware doesn't work on the 17mm board using the exact same components unless you add the gate & pulldown resistors, I have no idea. The only difference is the PCB and no matter how many times I go back and compare them, they should be functionally identical, just different sizes.

Rufusbduck
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I hate to say this but maybe size does really matter! Oops

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

comfychair
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Yes but remember back a ways what I found... bypassing the polarity protection diode makes the 17mm board work, without the gate/pulldown resistors. And it works flawlessly. But of course that screws up the voltage detection and it can't be reflashed unless the diode is un-bypassed. That still doesn't explain why the same diode, MCU, & FET work fine on the SRK board without the resistors. AARGH. |(

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I’m still learning this whole PCB stuff, but if the board size is scaled down, wouldn’t it necessarily scale down the traces as well? Smaller traces, closer together, maybe it’s a induction or capacitive issue?

TODO List:

Acquire more parts.

Devise cheap way to make TIRs.

Rub some bacon on it.

Finish something that I 

Rufusbduck
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Maybe it’s an oddity of the SRK board that allows it to work rather than something about the smaller ones that is a flaw. There were simply too many posts by more knowledgeable members saying the resistors should be there. Trace length, board capacitance, signal bounce, whatever. It might need analysis with an o-scope to figure out done by someone that understands this stuff and may not be worth the trouble for us plain clothes nerds. As you like to say Comfychair “It works” either way and with the boards developed with either case in mind, just use the resistors if needed. Besides, a few months usage is not really enough time to pick up on all the nuances possible so something could easily turn up yet.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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See? This is why I’m leery of opening up the Texas Poker and engaging star 2 for moon mode. Everything is working perfectly as of now, but who knows what will happen if I try that? Don’t want to mess it up…

Oh, I think GJ asked about the stars…they’re on the inside close to the MCU.

Rufusbduck
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For future reference the BLF Tiny10 is set up with through holes for both led + and – so either side can face the emitter. Not all hosts use the end of the battery tube for grounding the driver but it would still be possible to have the stars accessible even if they did.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

DB Custom
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Why, I do not know. That would have made some things easier. With this light being a twisty I had to seal the board with Arctic Alumina and use a small button of copper for the battery contact, while I actually covered the electronics in full potting I wouldn’t have HAD to, with the mcu towards the battery I could have potted the mcu and still left the star’s clear for options. Never occurred to me.

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I just place a small metal positive contact on top of the attiny. All pins still accessible.
10mm but its not a “tiny10”. Diode on top with attiny.


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Hey comfy…I got off my duff

Family portrait

SKR FET

20DD

17DD

15DD

Are we supposed to jumper across R3?

Testing to come soon…just have to flash the ATtiny w/ STAR firmware and test it out

once again sorry for the ultra crappy photos

I think I got the wrong diodes, the leads go out away from the body instead of curve underneath so it made it a bit difficult to get them to go where they should go…will definitely use your buy list next time
Went thru 8 ATtinys and support hardware, 6 of the larger FETS and 2 of the smaller ones…have 2 ATtiny’s left but saving one for the 7135 SRK FET (got to order the new boards) and for another TexasPyro 20mm Nanjg (going to use 380mA 7135’s)

All in all, using the hotair rework station and manually dabbing the pads with solder paste…

I will also work on getting better photos…those are absolutely HORRIBLE!

DB Custom
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Send me those and I’ll take some pics for you. Wink

comfychair
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
Are we supposed to jumper across R3? [...] I think I got the wrong diodes, the leads go out away from the body instead of curve underneath so it made it a bit difficult to get them to go where they should go

Yes, R3 is an optional limiting resistor (it's inline between LED- and the FET's drain).

That's the correct leg config on the diode, SOD-323.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ZLLS410TA/ZLLS410CT-ND/1767188

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Hello guys, I wanted to try the Tiny12, 

What size are the smd components? 

0805? 1206? 

 

thank you!

djozz
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antoninodattola wrote:

Hello guys, I wanted to try the Tiny12, 

What size are the smd components? 

0805? 1206? 

 

thank you!

The tiny12 is exact the Tiny10, but with a wider outer ring. The components are the components from a NANJG105C driver, the cheapest way to get them is just scavenge a 105C. I have used the Tiny12 like that and it works fine.

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I'm doing a fairly substantial order from Mouser, with 2 other users cpf_it and I thought to take a bit of stuff ..;) 

I'll do that for you tiny12! 

 

thanks

WarHawk-AVG
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Components were set for 0805

All you need to populate the ATtiny and controlling hardware

This list

http://www.digikey.com/short/hqzd0 from Digikey compiled by Comfychair

You need the ATtiny, a 19.1K resistor, a 4.7K resistor, the diode, and the 10UF capacitor

Looking at the list…that is EXACTLY what you need…1 for every board…then a way to flash the firmware to the ATtiny (which is easier and cheaper than one might think) go to OP for complete list…the Tiny10 or 12 uses the 7135 chips though

For a complete setup of 10
Subtotal $18.16

edit to correct resistor value

Jalben
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
Components were set for 0805

All you need to populate the ATtiny and controlling hardware

This list

http://www.digikey.com/short/hqzd0 from Digikey compiled by Comfychair

You need the ATtiny, a 19.1K resistor, a 47.1K resistor, the diode, and the 10UF capacitor

Looking at the list…that is EXACTLY what you need…1 for every board…then a way to flash the firmware to the ATtiny (which is easier and cheaper than one might think) go to OP for complete list…the Tiny10 or 12 uses the 7135 chips though

For a complete setup of 10
Subtotal $18.16

Awesome! I was just wondering about how much it would cost to source the components vs stripping drivers. I can get drivers cheaper it seems. Also there’s no link to this digicart in the OP. There are similar ones for the larger FET drivers but none for the AMC drivers.

TODO List:

Acquire more parts.

Devise cheap way to make TIRs.

Rub some bacon on it.

Finish something that I 

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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
You need the ATtiny, a 19.1K resistor, a 47.1K resistor, the diode, and the 10UF capacitor

Its 4.7 kΩ


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DB Custom
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Thanks Helios, I was all over that! 4.7 is quite different than 47.1! Works versus doesn’t work.

I find that the price of new components is well worth the effort as compared to stripping an existing driver. I’m not so good at taking those tiny resistors off a board without damaging them. To have a “tape” with 100 standing by, so much easier!

comfychair
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The price breaks start to lean towards buying individual components after you get up around 10 pieces. Fewer than that it's cheaper to use a donor driver for the parts.

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Hey guys just checkin in, I have sets of BLF15DD’s and BFL17DD’s on the way. I got the 15’s to hopefully revive an old broken original 47’s quark (literally the original version). The 17mm is going in my HD2010.

Thanks to everyone that’s worked on these. I may be able to solder the SMD’s but I could never design them.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

DB Custom
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Stripping the drivers for components still takes time, perhaps it is free as you don’t charge yourself, don’t know. My Dad would figure in the cost of soldering iron tips, wear and tear on the soldering iron itself (they don’t last forever do they?) and the waste of a bare 105c board not being used. Every fraction of a penny counts. Me? I don’t like doing all that math so I just buy new ones and be done with it, keeps me from burning meself. Wink

Rufusbduck
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I added the shopping cart to the other driver links.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

RMM
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When I saw this board over at Oshpark I knew I had to try one.  I haven't decided what to put it in yet and probably won't have time to do it for at least a few more weeks but there it sits...beckoning me. Surprised  So much power in such a tiny little package.

I don't think I'll be going direct drive with this one...or maybe direct drive with a 15 second turbo timer and electronic switch???  Three of these mounted in an M6?  Ultra-ultra mule?  It pulled 14A from a single purple Efest 18350; I'm scared to see what it would do on a single 20R or VTC4.  

Nah, I'll probably end up throwing it in an EDC tube type light and limiting it to around 6A and be reasonable for once.  Wink

Mountain Electronics : batteries, Noctigon, and much more! What's new? 

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