Oshpark Projects

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WarHawk-AVG
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Mattaus wrote:

46mm

The 46 might not fit…but the 17 or 20mm will Wink

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Mattaus wrote:

Now that looks awesome. Any feedback on the layout Comfy?

The only little thing I can find is that the pin2/pin3 selector thing for the switch input could be tricky when removing/replacing the switch wires, if it's done at the driver (if you use a wire lead to bridge the gap, the soldering iron will tend to suck it up when removing the switch wire). But I tend to tear things apart and tinker much more than most 'normal' people, and I plan to still add a 2 pin header on the little switch PCB for that reason anyway, I don't like unsoldering stuff when I don't have to. That's a very minor thing and I'm weird, it will probably never be an issue.

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Warhawk, I dunno, but Richard is going to be selling them, gotta mod one. Gotta! That driver is just compelling. I feel drawn to it like a moth to a flame. (And if you have seen me solder than you’d know that analogy fits perfect). I figured one of you knew. I will do a search on some of the reviews.

Matt, an idiot? Not from what I have seen. A poorly phrased question I will grant.

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

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TexasToasted wrote:
It would be real handy if the first post included links to the posts here at BLF pertaining to each individual project.

Good call. I thought about it but haven’t done it yet. Some of the work was done behind the scenes but there are certainly parent threads even for those.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I believe the M6 has a larger ID driver compartment than the SRKs, so if it fits the SRK it will fit M6 with plenty of room to spare. Drivers that fit the M6 will not necessarily fit the SRK (I think DrJones ran into that issue on the one he did recently).

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In a SRK...

http://75.65.123.78/blf-srk/Dsc07449.jpg

scottyhazzard
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That capacitor kabob thingy smooth out the current so no whining?

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

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It does on the original mule PCB (the red 'JB' driver), this is the same circuit just on a new board so no reason it won't do the same here.

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So very cool.

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

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Comfy, these are the parts that I need here. I think you linked them somewhere before. The tiny13 will need to be flashed right?

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

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Yes, MCU will need to be flashed. Add one of these to your Digikey order, it's cheaper there than ebay: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/5250/501-1311-ND/745102

And then these for the rest of the stuff needed:
http://www.fasttech.com/product/1002900
http://www.fasttech.com/product/1011800
http://www.fasttech.com/product/1135300

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comfy, that's the cleanest board I think I've ever seen! All purty for the pics!

I ordered the 7135 based 46 mm's because I got a ton of 7135's now and need to use them on something, and think'n I'd like to keep the SRK lights regulated, somewhat anyway - I'll still pile on 7135's, but more in the realm of 3.5A per LED. Also ordered the 17mm and 20mm FET based boards.

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Comfy, that’s awesome. However, thinking of my recent experiences,

And also

Maybe I should just harvest a tiny13 that’s been flashed and reflow. My soldering is getting better since I trashed the MTG2 driver- but it’s not good. Although, my ego and enthusiasm make up for it Wink

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

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Well I am still getting some squeal, but this is the first one built. Time to start swapping parts and see what changes it. It was silent on the JB board but I was using a different inductor. I need to try it with no inductor, and with the other inductors I used before. I do know for sure it would be louder without the big capacitor, that's never failed to show a big improvement. This PCB is thinner than the other SRK boards which can also have an effect on PWM noise (different resonant frequency).

Another weirdness I didn't see before: after disconnecting power then reconnecting (like swapping batteries), it turns on in the lowest mode even without any input from the switch. A long press drops it down a mode and it turns fully off like normal. This is the exact same code I used on the test boards so I have no idea what's different now.

I also need to flash it temporarily with a FW that has a battery monitor mode to see if this diode (D1, the little one) has the same voltage drop as what comes on the 105C.

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comfychair wrote:

Another weirdness I didn't see before: after disconnecting power then reconnecting (like swapping batteries), it turns on in the lowest mode even without any input from the switch. A long press drops it down a mode and it turns fully off like normal. This is the exact same code I used on the test boards so I have no idea what's different now

The capacitor isn't holding a charge by any chance and plus providing a false "on" signal to the MCU?*

- Matt

* I've put not thought into this comment what-so-ever.

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Tom E wrote:

comfy, that’s the cleanest board I think I’ve ever seen! All purty for the pics!

I ordered the 7135 based 46 mm’s because I got a ton of 7135’s now and need to use them on something, and think’n I’d like to keep the SRK lights regulated, somewhat anyway – I’ll still pile on 7135’s, but more in the realm of 3.5A per LED. Also ordered the 17mm and 20mm FET based boards.

That was Mattaus’s handywork on the build of the OSHPark board (and design thru Eagle), comfy and rufus giving expertise…and me just being able to cheerlead them on
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scottyhazzard wrote:
Comfy, that’s awesome. However, thinking of my recent experiences,

And also

Maybe I should just harvest a tiny13 that’s been flashed and reflow. My soldering is getting better since I trashed the MTG2 driver- but it’s not good. Although, my ego and enthusiasm make up for it Wink

That is what I did with TexasPyro 20mm Nanjg…ended up flashing it to STAR V1.1 though, it caught me off guard because I thought I already flashed it…but started getting the flashies…hah

Maybe I will just offer my services for soldering and flashing drivers (for a small nominal fee)

and OUCH on the smoking of the emitter…dang, but it happens

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It’s embarrassing, but a learning curve with lots of help and support from the tutors here at BLF. I’m getting better. My patience or lack of patience is my downfall.

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

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Mattaus wrote:

comfychair wrote:

Another weirdness I didn't see before: after disconnecting power then reconnecting (like swapping batteries), it turns on in the lowest mode even without any input from the switch. A long press drops it down a mode and it turns fully off like normal. This is the exact same code I used on the test boards so I have no idea what's different now

The capacitor isn't holding a charge by any chance and plus providing a false "on" signal to the MCU?*

- Matt

* I've put not thought into this comment what-so-ever.

Nope, if I disconnect power while it's on I can see it drain the cap, as it fades down to nothing which looks different than blinking off instantly when turned off via the momentary switch. I did try shorting the cap to drain it before connecting power but it still does it just the same.

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Maybe I missed it, but for the 15 mm DD FET driver, has anyone tested that FET, or assembled/tried this driver yet? Do we have a good feeling this FET and driver will work ok?

Anyone have a DigiKey listing for the FET?

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The fets were used by Werner but I would not call them thoroughly tested. By itself one blew but I think that was with an 18650 so he designed his board for four but that is still testing. That size driver is meant for 14500 applications where the current available is less. It should be ok with a 10440 but might need 2 stacked with an IMR 14500. This is hypothetical at this point as I have a few but haven’t tested them yet. I can pop two in the mail if you want to try them out. I got them on eBay for less than .30 ea. I was going to try one out on a blank single mode board first but that won’t happen til the week end.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Hhmm. No rush - I ordered the 15mm boards, very cheap, so if you get a chance to try it out this weekend and post, that would be great. Probably wil be a couple of weeks before I can get to them anyway. I got a UniqueFire G10 and a Romison RC-29 which are nice quality little 14500 lights which will really benefit from a programmable driver like this. The G10 has a single mode driver with a XP-G2 in it, and the RC-29 is totally stock with the next mode memory PIA thing. I got some other 14500 15mm lights as well.

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I have some of the 17s but haven't built one yet. No 15s here, don't really have a use for them.

-----

So I tried this, didn't have any effect-

http://75.65.123.78/blf-srk/Dsc07466.jpg

(http://edn.com/design/components-and-packaging/4364020/Reduce-acoustic-n...)

So noise is not from the little cap. It's not caused by the inductor, either (still makes noise with the inductor removed completely, and the pads jumpered), though the inductor used can have an effect on the noise. So far, the quietest one is the .58uH Panasonic...

http://75.65.123.78/blf-srk/Dsc07468.jpg

It doesn't drop the low mode as low as the .8/1.0/1.2uH parts, but you can always drop your PWM values all the way down to '1', and it's pretty damn low. Lower inductance also means it has less of an effect on the higher modes (less DC resistance).

Are there any other options for PWM frequency with the attiny13? Like, lower, where it might be outside the resonant frequency of the parts on the board?

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comfychair wrote:

Are there any other options for PWM frequency with the attiny13? Like, lower, where it might be outside the resonant frequency of the parts on the board?

You could try 2.4kHz, which requires changing F_CPU in the source code to 9600000 and a low fuse of 6a.  Or you could leave the low fuse and F_CPU as-is but set it to Fast-PWM with a prescale of 8, which would get you around 2.2kHz, or increase the CPU speed to make it even faster (if I have all of that right).

 * define F_CPU 4800000  CPU: 4.8MHz  PWM: 9.4kHz       ####### use low fuse: 0x75  #######
 *                             /8     PWM: 1.176kHz     ####### use low fuse: 0x65  #######
 * define F_CPU 9600000  CPU: 9.6MHz  PWM: 19kHz        ####### use low fuse: 0x7a  #######
 *                             /8     PWM: 2.4kHz       ####### use low fuse: 0x6a  #######
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OK, so why is STAR 1.0 silent (just now tried it for the first time (no changes other than sticking in my favorite levels, 0,2,6,18,54,130,255), using same 0x75/0xff as before), but minimo is noisy as hell? I don't understand the code well enough to translate between the different versions to pick out which difference causes the different behavior...

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STAR uses Fast-PWM at 18.75 kHz and MiniMo uses Phase-Correct at 9.4 kHz (just like Luxdrv and BLF-VLD).  That 9.4 kHz seems to make every setup whine, and Fast-PWM makes it silent.  But I thought the FET setup didn't work with Fast-PWM?  Or did your hardware changes now allow it to work?

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I don't know, I just took the original STAR v1.0, plugged in my PWM levels, flashed it using 0x75/0xff, and it works.

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.txt file of what I pasted into Atmel Studio: http://75.65.123.78/blf-srk/t1.txt

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This is weird because I've been using luxdrv with phase-correct at 9.4 kHz for over a year and can't seem to hear a whine in PWM modes at all, on all my builds - lots. Am I just not sensitive to it? Of course at my age, I can't smell much or taste much either - I have to smother my meals in Habernero sauce so I can taste something at least, though it may be somewhat painful... Smile Got my 1,000 lumens EDC strapped to my head and drug store #3 glasses on just to get something done on the bench... It's fun, Just you guys wait and see...

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My clicky switch/luxdrv lights whine from the switch (the little contacts inside wiggle around), lightly pressing on the switch changes the pitch/volume. Obviously that's not where the noise comes from on the momentary lights though.

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