17432 posts / 0 new
Last post
Tom E
Tom E's picture
Last seen: 39 min 42 sec ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14154
Location: LI NY

Based on my measurements, the Shocker had 3 C8 size reflectors, but if you can do it in a 76 mm head, sounds great. The Shocker problems were the weight and size mainly, and even the 3 cells turned out to be a major limit on output over the run-time, plus the fact of the cells in series, you should be using protected cells. The standard SRK 4 parallel cell arrangement is great for high amp unprotected cell usage – safe and scale-able. The SRK multi-LED form factor has many benefits for simple high amp, high output designs, plus the ability to have an advanced UI because of the e-switch. You can perhaps do a better UI with a two e-switch approach, as many higher end lights are offering now. Like the use of the cell status LED’s.

gamezawy's picture
Last seen: 4 months 1 hour ago
Joined: 10/08/2013 - 07:34
Posts: 504
Location: Egypt

iam in

The Miller
The Miller's picture
Last seen: 1 year 5 months ago
Joined: 12/14/2015 - 12:08
Posts: 9908
Location: Charente France

tekwyzrd wrote:
So much for my (edit red. AWESOME mod

Sorry though awesome using available 4 led SRK reflectors and same sizes helps to keep the price down.
The better threads is a demand however no weak triangular threads on a BLF Special like this Wink

OK when contact is made with a manufacturer we’ll toss in dual switch idea, aim high!

tru3s1lv3r's picture
Last seen: 2 months 1 week ago
Joined: 07/15/2015 - 23:34
Posts: 676
Location: South of the ATL

Count me in for one!

Aspiring Fhashlightaholic!

1dash1's picture
Last seen: 2 years 1 month ago
Joined: 08/29/2015 - 22:02
Posts: 1576
Location: Hilo, Hawaii

Are you sure that you wouldn’t want a UCL lens, instead of AR-coated one?

(Why use a high CRI emitter, if you’re going to shift the tint with the AR-coating?)

Rule 1-1 as it applies to life, take it as it comes.

goshdogit's picture
Last seen: 3 hours 31 min ago
Joined: 12/03/2015 - 21:28
Posts: 1254

goshdogit wrote:
Two please!
I’m currently #11 and #12 on the list.

Please put me down for a third one. I lured another friend aboard!

Thank you Miller!

Wrathbringer27's picture
Last seen: 4 days 1 hour ago
Joined: 03/02/2015 - 09:00
Posts: 2110
Location: Singapore GMT +8

In! In! In!

Words can be broken,
so can bones.

The Miller
The Miller's picture
Last seen: 1 year 5 months ago
Joined: 12/14/2015 - 12:08
Posts: 9908
Location: Charente France

Goshdogit, aha yes will do!
But it probably will take a while before they are in your hands Wink


Wrathbringer27 wrote:
In! In! In!

You mean 3 times ;D (if not please tell me, I put you in the list three times ;))

Aha, 1dash1 yes that would defeat the purpose, thanks.
The question then is, is a UCL lens worth it or should we just go with a standard lens?
For now I removed the AR coated lens from the OP and were back at a glas lens.

ToyKeeper's picture
Last seen: 1 hour 13 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10648
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

FWIW, Nichia 219 + AR-coated lens is a recipe for low CRI. I’d suggest that you go for good tint or AR coating, but not both.

The Miller
The Miller's picture
Last seen: 1 year 5 months ago
Joined: 12/14/2015 - 12:08
Posts: 9908
Location: Charente France

Yes, the AR coating is gone, we’re back at regular glass for now. Thanks!

Last seen: 20 hours 55 min ago
Joined: 01/04/2016 - 16:50
Posts: 164
Location: Tenn.USA

interested in 18650 version ,definitely IN for 14500 version by DavidEF.

ToyKeeper's picture
Last seen: 1 hour 13 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10648
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

goshdogit wrote:
* Bistro UI — Yes!

Bistro is not compatible with e-switches. However Tom E has a nice e-switch firmware with all sorts of good features. Have you considered Narsil?

The closest I’ve got is Ferrero_Rocher/Ramping_UI_table.c, which would need some significant changes. Or bistro, which is designed to make e-switch code somewhat easier to write eventually… but the code for that doesn’t exist yet. I like the ramping UI basics though:

While off:

  • Click to turn on at the last-used level.
  • Hold to turn on at the lowest level.
  • Double click to turn on at the highest level.

While on:

  • Click to turn off.
  • Hold to ramp smoothly (and pretty quickly). Release to set the level. Hold again within a second to ramp the other way.

If the driver used a tiny25/45/85 and had the FET and 7135 on entirely separate channels (not sharing a PWM counter), it would be possible to use both PWM and PFM on a 2-channel driver. What this means is it could ramp much more smoothly at the low end instead of getting stairstep-like jumps at the bottom few levels. Not sure that’s relevant for a light this size, but it’s something I’d like to see sometime.

Last seen: 1 year 7 months ago
Joined: 05/03/2015 - 17:18
Posts: 1802
Location: SC USA

Interested but not committed. I’m already buying pats for a SRK build and my finances will dictate what happens here.

I would like ramping and good threading on the body which would raise my interest. Must have a full shelf like the original, it’s a no-go for me without that. Not interested in a ‘baby’ model.

Something to consider is having the whole group made in one identical batch as another requirement so things don’t go like the A6 did.


Last seen: 1 year 2 months ago
Joined: 10/27/2015 - 09:00
Posts: 952
Location: North East USA
The Miller wrote:
JakeDjanitor wrote:
chance of low voltage cut off?
Yes, good point, added!

Awesome. Thank you.
If you End up being able to do this with the high cri. I am pretty sure I’ll be buying one

apt323's picture
Last seen: 4 days 12 hours ago
Joined: 03/19/2012 - 20:18
Posts: 1555
Location: North Texas

Count me in for 1 maybe more depending on what happens with the final build

Last seen: 2 years 2 months ago
Joined: 01/24/2016 - 09:11
Posts: 156
Location: Sweden
zelee wrote:
interested but there is klarus g30 and thorfire s70 on the way so i kinda tight budget this month Facepalm

This month? I think we can safely say that this light won’t affect this months budget. And probably not next months’ either… Smile

Sign me up for one.

Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 01/10/2016 - 16:17
Posts: 1180
Location: United Kingdom

Hi The Miller, put me down on the list for one please Smile
It would be great if you could indeed get the “happy box” company (Thorfire) to make it.


Mitko's picture
Last seen: 4 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 09/19/2014 - 05:20
Posts: 1537
Location: Bulgaria


Both Roche and Ramping firmwares are good enough, they just lack temp control, if you adjust those for A25 it would be great…..actualy only a few would ever use all fansy firmware features, yet the temp control is a great option

We should also work on the driver cooling, i burried many mosfets trying to cool down the fet especialy while ramping…. its strange though, when i use a glued Cu headsink on the mosfet it dies way more rapidly and often than if i just glue the drive with a pure sillicone to the main SRK pcb…i am trying to figure that out on a Thorfire XHP70 atm, the mosfet is duying randomly

Last seen: 6 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 04/14/2014 - 16:31
Posts: 65

I would like to be included also! Sign me up for one.

Last seen: 2 years 2 weeks ago
Joined: 08/29/2013 - 23:06
Posts: 313
Location: Fruitland, USA

I’m definitely in.

The Miller
The Miller's picture
Last seen: 1 year 5 months ago
Joined: 12/14/2015 - 12:08
Posts: 9908
Location: Charente France

Mitko, great input on the cooling of those parts.
We don’t want to having dying lights.
Reading your post I remembered those little stick on heatsinks used in PCs. For critical servers I put those on all chips. But then I read that these do not help.

Is the MOSFET the highest part of a driver? Seen from the PCB?
If so, would making the ledshelf (integrated in body) thicker to the point where driver can be attached with screws and the MOSFET pressed against the shelf be done? Nah, wires need to run and future modding would become much harder even if it could.

So hmm what could solve this issue?
If not done reliable I’d say let’s go for a not ramping no matter how much I like the idea of ramping

Last seen: 2 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 04/26/2014 - 01:04
Posts: 1819
Location: Australia

Good Day The Miller, smile


You specced: LEDs on copper stars

But should it be LEDs on Copper DTP stars?  wink


Best Regards,



slimkango's picture
Last seen: 2 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 01/29/2014 - 20:13
Posts: 128
Location: Ohio

I’m definitely in!!

The Miller
The Miller's picture
Last seen: 1 year 5 months ago
Joined: 12/14/2015 - 12:08
Posts: 9908
Location: Charente France

Also besides the technical ideas that are being discussed now I would like to have an addition to the team helping.
Specifically I am looking for a person living in Asia or Australia (the continents)

This means we can have 24/7 coverage of the process.
Idea is to exchange email. Talk about set details, coming from this thread and discussion.
The party/parties outside BLF doing the actual fabrication/shipping should sent all communication to the whole team.
We should be on the same page about key specs/ideas.
So we could address things fast and be active in this thread when needed.

Current team:
djozz, led connaiseur first class.
Tom E, driver whizz.
The Miller, talkative enthusiast.
If you want to help here, feel free to send a pm to me.

Last seen: 3 years 4 months ago
Joined: 01/01/2016 - 13:00
Posts: 92
Location: New York

ImA4Wheelr wrote:
Interested in one depending on price.

2 requests:

  • An option for Host only. Would be attractive to those of use loaded with drivers and emitters.
  • Battery tube extensions. So many folks would love to make their SRK’s 2S4P, 3S4P, even 4S4P! The mod options would become endless. Especially, if the tubes could also fit the TK61 and TK75 (They fit the other way around).

I love the idea of host only with extra tubes
Last seen: 2 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 02/05/2016 - 23:44
Posts: 154
Location: Texas

I’m in for 1.

And I’m a sucker for different tubes. They’re like flashlight legos.

zelee's picture
Last seen: 4 days 12 hours ago
Joined: 06/04/2013 - 06:53
Posts: 1965
Location: S.E.A

Put me for 1 for now
Already on the list

Last seen: 5 hours 51 min ago
Joined: 08/28/2013 - 03:56
Posts: 971
Location: Corio, Victoria, Australia

As the biggest problem with srk’s is the cooling, how about making the head wall 1mm thicker, cutting the fins 1 mm deeper and having them all the way along the head, even though they are only 1mm deep at the bezel.
This should not add much weight but will improve cooling.

Starting to save up now, trouble is finding a new hiding spot that swmbo wont discover and use to feed the family Wink

In for one, not worried about led or driver those can be changed to suit me later.

Cheers David

ps, This would also make the BLF light different from all the rubbish srk clones Party

Nothing to see here folks, move along...

The Miller
The Miller's picture
Last seen: 1 year 5 months ago
Joined: 12/14/2015 - 12:08
Posts: 9908
Location: Charente France

Interesting, just adding a lttle extra cooling.
It does make a difference, I was testing the Darktort and Convoy S2+ te other day. about the same amount of light (Darktort a little brighter), about the same size head. The Darktort has a few very small fins on the head and is stayed cooler then the Convoy. So a little will help.
I think this is something to take along, I mean there must a new head made with integrated shelf, why not tweak the cooling.

patmurris's picture
Last seen: 2 days 8 hours ago
Joined: 12/22/2014 - 15:54
Posts: 1698
Location: Nice, France

I’m in for one, whatever comes out of this effort!
Thanks The Miller for this.

A few thoughts:

I’m split about the direction. On one hand i’d just love to find a plain gd’old 3xXML/2000 lm OTF, simple ‘click and fire’ UI, sub $30 SRK clone to gift around with batteries and charger on top. Everybody loves them. But nowadays i don’t know where to find one.

On the other hand, as a flashlight addict enthusiast, i dream of the ultimate SRK… 10.000 lumens turbo (100W with 3xXHP70?), several well spaced levels, a moon mode and hidden strobe. Fast PWM. What else? I’m not fan of ramping unless there is a physical slider or ring. If the light is designed from scratch i would prefer a more casual body with a good grip and no sharp edges. Neutral white…

Thanks to DavidEF for his idea of the Light-That-Shall-Not-Be-Named. Can’t wait to see it happen… Wink