Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

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spinynorman
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Well for once my tendency towards procrastination didn’t turn around and bite me on the ***. Do your best TF, in the meantime I have my wicked cool little Emisar D4 to keep me amused. Smile

nishayume
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The button led works fine when i plug the battery, first power on some clicks in the next 2-3 minuts and dead. I dont have the skills to help as i want, but at least i csn try to show photos from the leds and resistor from button if can me show how to remove the silicon from the led button.. I can wait until is fixed, and then try hard if i can to repair the led button, i like the button with the led on :D.

Of course the flashlight aparently works perfect

JasonWW
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kaybi wrote:
DavidEF, how does the trick to remove mode memory on a light work? Very interested.

The graphite is conductive so a drawn line acts like a wire. Depending on the driver design your just shorting out a circuit. I think on this one light it got rid of the next mode memory by making it one mode. Always high.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

kntx
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Anyone could rec me a site to check the air parcel that gave me BG? Tried sky56 and nothin

The Miller
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nishayume thanks for clarification, good to know yours too did work at first, making it a same issue as the others.

goshdogit
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I’ve received two Q8s and they’re awesome! Way to go Q-Team! Thumbs Up

Here are a few beamshots with some other multi-emitter lights. Lights were mounted just under the camera at waist height.

The lights are the Noctigon Meteor M43, BLF Q8, Emisar D4, and DQG 26650 III. See info in upper left of photos.

In the first location, the lights were aimed level at the trunk of the center tree, 115 feet / 35 meters away.

In the second location, the lights were aimed slightly upward at the tree’s leaves, 115 / 35 meters away.

All four lights:


Just the Meteor and Q8:


Lilien
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JasonWW wrote:
Nope, the button top base sits on top of the plastic wrapper. So the only contact is the metal strip inside.

I’m not very confident that this little metal stripe will withstand sustained 20A. What do you all think?
DB Custom
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It won’t have to, when you use 4 cells the load is divided between them. If you only use one cell, it’ll deliver less amperage.

Lazy-R-us
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Quote:

I’m not very confident that this little metal stripe will withstand sustained 20A. What do you all think?

Assuming you don’t try to run the Q8 with only one battery, it never has to.

The batteries are in parallel, the total amp draw is divided by the number of batteries loaded. With 4 in there, that strap will only be carrying 5 amps. No problem.

Lazy-R-us

Yokiamy
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Lilien wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Nope, the button top base sits on top of the plastic wrapper. So the only contact is the metal strip inside.
I’m not very confident that this little metal stripe will withstand sustained 20A. What do you all think?

Pry it off and solder boob the cell, should work fine

Joey Adams
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Well this delay is fantastic. I have literally zero cares about the indicator light. I almost always disable them when possible. I guess our back orders went from end of this month to end of this year.

JasonWW
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DB Custom wrote:
It won’t have to, when you use 4 cells the load is divided between them. If you only use one cell, it’ll deliver less amperage.

But the cell is rated at 20 amps. What if you use it in a hotrod light that pulls 20 amps. It has to work just like the stock 30Q, right?

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

djburkes
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I just want to thank The Miller and the rest of the team that made this light and group buy happen!! I think it’s great that the communication with ThorFire has been very successful as you really don’t see that with most other manufacturers in a group buy. Usually you end up getting what you get and maybe get the problem fixed later either by a refund, replacement, or parts mailed to you in order to fix it yourself. In this case, the production has been halted so they can address the issue and that is fantastic! I know that a lot of people have pre-ordered their lights and are excited about getting them. Most of us flashlight folks are impatient when it comes to waiting for a light that has been ordered, me being a perfect example. I would label myself the most impatient person here Facepalm . I would advise everyone that has ordered or that plan to order the light not to seek refunds and not to pass up this great light that was made just for us because this doesn’t happen very often. There’s always going to be some type of issue with a light whether it’s discovered during a QC check or in the customer’s hand so this is a good thing…it just means that when you receive your light that it will most likely be problem free! Thumbs Up

Joey Adams
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And in the meantime banggood gets a zero interest open ended loan. Yay!

WalkIntoTheLight
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JasonWW wrote:

I recieved my button top 30Q from Banggood as well and got the same raised flat tops.

They also had an extra partial wrap of clear plastic which covered the positive posts (maybe to allow for air shipping?). I had to remove that.

Then I noticed that one cell had the clear wrap not centered. It’s got too much on the negative and not enough on the positive. It looks like it’s falling apart. Do you guys think its alright or should I contact banggood about it?

From your picture, it looks like you’re showing the batteries with all the wraps, as they are delivered to you. If so, that’s not an issue, because you need to remove that outer wrap anyway.

The cells have 3 wraps:

1. The original pink wrap, just like the flat-tops.

2. A clear wrap, that adds the button top and holds it in place.

3. Another clear wrap, that covers the positive and negative terminals, to prevent an accidental short during shipping.

You need to remove (3), which you know. So, any problem with it doesn’t matter.

If it’s (2) that’s the problem, then that is an issue. You could try to fix it yourself, or just remove it and use the cell as a flat-top in another light.

RapidLux
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Preorder 58 arrived today, in top condition. No switch problem, Leds, reflector, springs and glass lens look flawlessly. The screws seem to be no issue at all. It is an amazing flashlight. I love to play with the Ramping. Only is that the O-ring on battery tube may need little bit lube.

I gave away my charger, so had no charger to charge the Samsung 18650-30 batteries. I had to use my Rofis TR20 flashlight to charge one battery at a time with that integrated 0.3A usb charger. Ran Q8 battery check to find the voltage, it was only 4V. So I guess Rofis TR20 can charge only to 4.0V, or it is not meant for INR batteries. I have now ordered Lii 500 from Fasttech.

Ready to order my 2nd BLF Q8!

The Miller
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Joey Adams wrote:
Well this delay is fantastic. I have literally zero cares about the indicator light. I almost always disable them when possible. I guess our back orders went from end of this month to end of this year.

Well can’t sat more then apologies and no it can’t take that long.
All the parts are ready, just need assembling. This is a delay but no months extra.
snowe
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Anyone have a suggestion on which batteries to get? I’ve never needed 18650s before, was looking at the comparison tool on reddit, but really don’t understand much of it.

nishayume
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Im trying to remove the button holder , but im scratching all my q8 button screw.
So i end touching this, i wait until howto to know tools i need etc

Thanks again to all!

g_sintornillos
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kntx wrote:
Anyone could rec me a site to check the air parcel that gave me BG? Tried sky56 and nothin

Try with http://flytexpress.com/index_En.aspx

Sorry for my bad English (gogole transtorla)

The Miller
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Joey Adams wrote:
And in the meantime banggood gets a zero interest open ended loan. Yay!

No in the mean time Thorfire received 1600*$40 while making 2500 Q8 flashlights.
Believe me all want it resolved and fast Wink
marsalla
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i have not had any issues with mine but i just got it yesterday

 

I wanted to know if anyone can tell me how to lower the moon light mode.

 

 

Please

 

 

Lilien
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DB Custom wrote:
It won’t have to, when you use 4 cells the load is divided between them.

Yes I know, and it’s at least a relief that this lousy construction is no imminent showstopper for the use with our C8, but Banggood sells these batteries with the declaration “Max. continuous discharge: 20A”, so I thought it’s a more substantial electrical connection. For Example (a pair of Sanyo 2600 mAh BT-cells I own):

Lazy-R-us
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JasonWW wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
It won’t have to, when you use 4 cells the load is divided between them. If you only use one cell, it’ll deliver less amperage.

But the cell is rated at 20 amps. What if you use it in a hotrod light that pulls 20 amps. It has to work just like the stock 30Q, right?

Remember that the button tops are ‘modded’ batteries. They don’t ‘have to’ work just like stock. As the various tests that have been posted here show, different button top like mods produce different results. Solder boobs seem to add the least resistance. I would guess that spot welding the button top directly to the top of the cell would be next best, and this jacked up ‘weld a strap to the battery and a button top to the strap’ would be further down the performance spectrum.

The addition of the button top adds something to the resistance of the cell. So it WILL NOT perform as well as one without.

Lazy-R-us

emarkd
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So it seems to me that most of the reports of faulty switch LEDs goes like this:

1. Load new cells, everything works fine.
2. Play with Q8. Be amazed.
3. Turn of Q8, switch LED is now wonky.

If that’s what’s going on, has anybody tried recharging their cells to full to see if that “fixes” the switch LEDs? Seems to me that if the switch LEDs are operating right on the edge of their Vf due to too much resistance or too weak LEDs or whatever, then using the light, and thereby dropping the voltage some, could be what’s triggering the “issues”. I mean at some low voltage level all of our e-switch LEDs would go out, but due to parts tolerances maybe some are doing it much at higher voltage than expected or desired. Or maybe I’m missing something…

The Miller
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Yes emarkd testing such things can be a great help

marsalla, see post 2 and/or the included manual Wink

piyoman
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Ahhh, thanks! That was easy. Now looking at the leds and I don’t want to do it anymore.. ha! Plus I was hoping my brand new retaining ring pliers would help but alas, a scratch was inevitable. Nothing a Sharpie can’t fix Smile

Tom E
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piyoman wrote:
Ahhh, thanks! That was easy. Now looking at the leds and I don't want to do it anymore.. ha! Plus I was hoping my brand new retaining ring pliers would help but alas, a scratch was inevitable. Nothing a Sharpie can't fix :)

I've used needlenose with rounded edges on the backside, and was able to loosen the switch retaining ring without scratches, but being careful in doing so.

djburkes
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snowe wrote:
Anyone have a suggestion on which batteries to get? I’ve never needed 18650s before, was looking at the comparison tool on reddit, but really don’t understand much of it.

I would suggest button top Sony VTC6 batteries or Samsung 30Q batteries…I’m partial to the VTC6s myself.

The Miller
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piyoman wrote:
Ahhh, thanks! That was easy. Now looking at the leds and I don’t want to do it anymore.. ha! Plus I was hoping my brand new retaining ring pliers would help but alas, a scratch was inevitable. Nothing a Sharpie can’t fix Smile

Just get all the black of it, looks good with the bezel Wink

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