Ok, ordered 4 of these, full set, for total of $85. The US/EU adapter thing is a bit sketchy there but looks ok from the pics. Should have ordered these weeks ago
Ok, ordered 4 of these, full set, for total of $85. The US/EU adapter thing is a bit sketchy there but looks ok from the pics. Should have ordered these weeks ago
I bought my Lii-500 from them and they sent me a EU adapter (I live in Canada). There was no option to select the adapter so i was thinking they would send the adapter according to my country, but they didn’t. You might want to send them a message to make sure they send you the US adapter.
My BLF Q8 order history:
Submitted 9/7/17
Payment Confirmed 9/7/17
Processed 9/7/17
Sometime after that it went to “Back-order”
Then.. Shipped 9/28/17
I’m assuming during that production halt anyone that hadn’t had their light shipped out wouldn’t be receiving one before the Sideswitch LED issue was looked into and would receive a post fixed one? Hopefully we can get some “patch notes” after chinese holiday and some sort of maybe version number differentiation in the boxes so we know they are a post fix unit without digging into it. I know that wonderful in-depth guide was posted which allows us to look into everything and making sure it is functioning as intended but maybe for a peace of mind there will be a way to tell right off the bat if it’s a unit that slipped through the cracks or was post patch.
Anxious to receive my unit in the next few days! I’m much more excited than I am worried at this point though!
PSA: DO NOT DO THIS without isolating one side of the battery.
Didn’t even consider it a few years ago when I wanted to measure the length of a cell. No real damage, bit it did get exciting for a second.
The Enova Gyrfalcon is an 8 bay charger that does a good job. I have two Enova All-80 8 bay’s and the Gyrfalcon. And several XTAR’s. And the Opus. And an Efest 6 bay. And…
Has anyone with a 30 digit tracking number been able to find tracking information anywhere? Just curious.
Thanks
Tried all the methods suggested by the good folks here with no luck. Pics of the second batch in the wild lead me to believe it shouldn’t be too long till ours show up.
Of my 3, one is being played with at the Hong Kong Airport and the good people in the Chinese postal community are testing my other two, prior to letting the Airport personnel have their go.
Nice. I don’t know if my similar looking case I had already forgotten about is the exact same(bought separately, don’t have the SC01), but it will actually fit two sets of spare cells packed in the Nitecore NBM40 holders. I’ll check if it also fits the Q8 with them later on, I left the Q8 in my car.
I got a 20 digit also tied up being sorted in HK for 2 days, and one 30 digit with no clue how to trace it, message left with BG bout it and no answer yet.
My BLF Q8 order history: Submitted 9/7/17 Payment Confirmed 9/7/17 Processed 9/7/17 Sometime after that it went to "Back-order" Then.. Shipped 9/28/17 I'm assuming during that production halt anyone that hadn't had their light shipped out wouldn't be receiving one before the Sideswitch LED issue was looked into and would receive a post fixed one? Hopefully we can get some "patch notes" after chinese holiday and some sort of maybe version number differentiation in the boxes so we know they are a post fix unit without digging into it. I know that wonderful in-depth guide was posted which allows us to look into everything and making sure it is functioning as intended but maybe for a peace of mind there will be a way to tell right off the bat if it's a unit that slipped through the cracks or was post patch. Anxious to receive my unit in the next few days! I'm much more excited than I am worried at this point though!
i doubt there will be any clue in packaging. From pics who recv'd the new ones, should be able to tell easily by the screws holding down the driver - 1st batch had flat heads, 2nd batch has round panheads - thinks that's what they are called. Screws seen under the tailcap were changed the same way.
PSA: DO NOT DO THIS without isolating one side of the battery.
Didn’t even consider it a few years ago when I wanted to measure the length of a cell. No real damage, bit it did get exciting for a second.
OOPS
b1i1l1l1y1 wrote:
Depends if the cell has a raise bottom or not
Samsung18650 cells have the heat shrink tube covering the minus if you don’t pus the calipers hard
Steel is not a good conductor so it wont harm too bad
It won’t probably be that dangerous, but not a pleasant surprise either. It’s easy to short a cell when trying to measure even if it’s wrapped around the edges on negative end.
Using some tape or a piece of flat plastic is quite easy with the digital caliper pictured above, even if you want to be super accurate. Just isolate the ends, zero, and measure.
PSA: DO NOT DO THIS without isolating one side of the battery.
OOPS
b1i1l1l1y1 wrote:
Steel is not a good conductor so it wont harm too bad
Steel doesn’t conduct as well as copper, but those calipers are thick enough it’d be like the equivalent of a zero-gauge copper wire. It should easily be able to damage the cell if held like that for long.
If anyone thinks steel isn’t a good conductor, try laying a wrench across a car battery. (or, actually, don’t… unless you want to destroy both items and risk injury)
In both of these scenarios you would see some sparks (sorry for my understatement) before cell damage would occur. I’m more afraid of second or third degree burns on hands and face, causing a domestic or industrial fire, and/or eye damage. Or avoiding any of those, publicly having to admit shitting oneself. Pardon my French on a family forum like this, but this is serious stuff. I’m speaking out of experience and it’s my wish others will not have to.
What is not reproducable – the power loss or the fix?
Hard taps on a table on the tail and unable to reproduce the power loss/flicker. Just did this with two Q8’s the other night – pretty sure I had 30Q BT’s in them.
It was fairly easy to reproduce the power loss with the stock springs though — this has been a concern of ours for quite a while. We hoped the new springs ThorFire went with in production would eliminate or reduce the likelihood of it. The new double springs were supposed to address this, but, things happen…
Aggravating but not a major issue – on bike usage perhaps, but again, I’d like to see far more informative posts on this, not just showing the failure scenario, but steps that can be taken to eliminate or reduce the effect – for example, how does 70 mm protected cells compare? Or even stating what the sizes of the cells used in the video? Etc…. Would adding magnets on the Batt- end of the cells help?
Bump sensitivity is an inherent issue in any light without springs on both ends. However, longer cells or BAT- magnets would probably help. I’ve used this approach before and it was effective.
Another option is possibly adding some short/long press detection to the firmware and resuming at the previous level after a short press. This could probably make the Q8 tolerate pretty long interruptions of power, depending on how fast the MCU’s SRAM decays. I suspect that a couple “noinit” vars checked on boot could probably make bumps a non-issue.
Dr. Jones has bump protection working really good in his h17f driver. I’m not sure how he implemented it, but it can distinguishe whether loss of power was a bump or an intentional button press. A slam down on the table will be ignored.
The last time I was home, I showed my wife the Q8. She said, “Wow, that’s a NICE flashlight.”
As I type this, I’m in DC for business. She is in San Diego. We’re on the phone and a circuit breaker trips. As she’s heading outside to reset the breaker (with the L6) she says, “I need the soda can light.”
In both of these scenarios you would see some sparks (sorry for my understatement) before cell damage would occur. I’m more afraid of second or third degree burns on hands and face, causing a domestic or industrial fire, and/or eye damage. Or avoiding any of those, publicly having to admit shitting oneself. Pardon my French on a family forum like this, but this is serious stuff. I’m speaking out of experience and it’s my wish others will not have to.
Quality cells like those Samsungs wont burn and explode
They got still electro-mechanical safeties against serious overcurrent or vent, which will separate the Anode from the positive contact
Those cell explosions usually come from overdischarge or other abuse damaging the separator foil inside the cell or overcharge
Yeah I ordered an $0,88 plastic caliper to measure cells or things that scratch easy. Good Quality 150 mm 6” Gray Plastic Mini Caliper Vernier Gauge Micrometer
http://s.aliexpress.com/zQrEFJB3
(from AliExpress Android)
Even cheaper now
Smittyjojo, yes it I’d frustrating, order and forget is rrally best for blood pressure.
Lots have been send out, too late for a V2 marking on box.
(sorry for my understatement) I’m more afraid of second or third degree burns …
Yes, I probably shouldn’t understate either. Don’t short a car battery. Those things are often rated for 500+ Amps on a cold day, and in one test of a relatively small battery they measured 1700 A with a dead short. A larger battery sized for a truck could probably put out thousands of Amps. At 12V, that means tens of thousands of Watts, concentrated into a relatively small area, which can cause serious damage or even death.
(sorry for my understatement) I’m more afraid of second or third degree burns …
Yes, I probably shouldn’t understate either. Don’t short a car battery. Those things are often rated for 500+ Amps on a cold day, and in one test of a relatively small battery they measured 1700 A with a dead short. A larger battery sized for a truck could probably put out thousands of Amps. At 12V, that means tens of thousands of Watts, concentrated into a relatively small area, which can cause serious damage or even death.
I had a car battery explode on me once when I turned the ignition. Had the bonnet open (hood for those using corrupted English…) and bits of it landed a good 100 yards away. Quite spectacular but potentially bad for your underwear.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
The XTAR XP4 is a nice 4 bay charger that isn’t real expensive and also charges NiMH cells. Mine’s been very reliable.
Cool to read BrianK, thanks for sharing!
Yep second the Lii500, for ~$16-$20 cannot imagine a better choice
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
Where for that price? I've been look'n and look'n. Need 3-4 chargers. Best deal I could find in BG at $72 for 3, thats $24 each using 4BLF coupon.
~$21 with adaper:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Liitokala-Lii-NL4-Lii-500-Lii-200-Lii-10...AAA-Ni-MH/1000004156053.html
or
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Liitokala-Lii-500-LCD-3-7V-18650-18350-18500-16340-17500-25500-10440-14500-26650/32805490592.html
~$17 without
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Liitokala-lii-400-display-LED-carregador-para-1-2-V-3-V-3-7-V-4/32826081888.html
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
That’s Murphy’s law for deals… they only show up when you don’t need them – and have already blown your budget.
Ok, ordered 4 of these, full set, for total of $85. The US/EU adapter thing is a bit sketchy there but looks ok from the pics. Should have ordered these weeks ago
I was pleasantly surprised.
Here is another link that goes into some other types & grades of Stainless that has some good info also.. http://www.sppusa.com/stainlesssteel_overview.php
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
I bought my Lii-500 from them and they sent me a EU adapter (I live in Canada). There was no option to select the adapter so i was thinking they would send the adapter according to my country, but they didn’t. You might want to send them a message to make sure they send you the US adapter.
My BLF Q8 order history:
Submitted 9/7/17
Payment Confirmed 9/7/17
Processed 9/7/17
Sometime after that it went to “Back-order”
Then.. Shipped 9/28/17
I’m assuming during that production halt anyone that hadn’t had their light shipped out wouldn’t be receiving one before the Sideswitch LED issue was looked into and would receive a post fixed one? Hopefully we can get some “patch notes” after chinese holiday and some sort of maybe version number differentiation in the boxes so we know they are a post fix unit without digging into it. I know that wonderful in-depth guide was posted which allows us to look into everything and making sure it is functioning as intended but maybe for a peace of mind there will be a way to tell right off the bat if it’s a unit that slipped through the cracks or was post patch.
Anxious to receive my unit in the next few days! I’m much more excited than I am worried at this point though!
PSA: DO NOT DO THIS without isolating one side of the battery. Didn’t even consider it a few years ago when I wanted to measure the length of a cell. No real damage, bit it did get exciting for a second.
OOPS
That’s what plastic calipers are for.
Has anyone with a 30 digit tracking number been able to find tracking information anywhere? Just curious.
Thanks
I see the Liitokala is popular… I use an Xtar wp6… I read that it was a good charger in terms of performance…
Is there a charger that does as good a job but is 8-10 or even 12 bay….? Or at the point do people just get multiple chargers?
The Enova Gyrfalcon is an 8 bay charger that does a good job. I have two Enova All-80 8 bay’s and the Gyrfalcon. And several XTAR’s. And the Opus. And an Efest 6 bay. And…
I can charge at least 39 cells at a time.
Tried all the methods suggested by the good folks here with no luck. Pics of the second batch in the wild lead me to believe it shouldn’t be too long till ours show up.
Of my 3, one is being played with at the Hong Kong Airport and the good people in the Chinese postal community are testing my other two, prior to letting the Airport personnel have their go.
Nice. I don’t know if my similar looking case I had already forgotten about is the exact same(bought separately, don’t have the SC01), but it will actually fit two sets of spare cells packed in the Nitecore NBM40 holders. I’ll check if it also fits the Q8 with them later on, I left the Q8 in my car.
I got a 20 digit also tied up being sorted in HK for 2 days, and one 30 digit with no clue how to trace it, message left with BG bout it and no answer yet.
i doubt there will be any clue in packaging. From pics who recv'd the new ones, should be able to tell easily by the screws holding down the driver - 1st batch had flat heads, 2nd batch has round panheads - thinks that's what they are called. Screws seen under the tailcap were changed the same way.
Depends if the cell has a raise bottom or not
Samsung18650 cells have the heat shrink tube covering the minus if you don’t pus the calipers hard
Steel is not a good conductor so it wont harm too bad
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
It won’t probably be that dangerous, but not a pleasant surprise either. It’s easy to short a cell when trying to measure even if it’s wrapped around the edges on negative end.
Using some tape or a piece of flat plastic is quite easy with the digital caliper pictured above, even if you want to be super accurate. Just isolate the ends, zero, and measure.
Steel doesn’t conduct as well as copper, but those calipers are thick enough it’d be like the equivalent of a zero-gauge copper wire. It should easily be able to damage the cell if held like that for long.
If anyone thinks steel isn’t a good conductor, try laying a wrench across a car battery.
(or, actually, don’t… unless you want to destroy both items and risk injury)
In both of these scenarios you would see some sparks (sorry for my understatement) before cell damage would occur. I’m more afraid of second or third degree burns on hands and face, causing a domestic or industrial fire, and/or eye damage. Or avoiding any of those, publicly having to admit shitting oneself. Pardon my French on a family forum like this, but this is serious stuff. I’m speaking out of experience and it’s my wish others will not have to.
Dr. Jones has bump protection working really good in his h17f driver. I’m not sure how he implemented it, but it can distinguishe whether loss of power was a bump or an intentional button press. A slam down on the table will be ignored.
The last time I was home, I showed my wife the Q8. She said, “Wow, that’s a NICE flashlight.”
As I type this, I’m in DC for business. She is in San Diego. We’re on the phone and a circuit breaker trips. As she’s heading outside to reset the breaker (with the L6) she says, “I need the soda can light.”
Across the country, I am grinning ear to ear.
I love my wife!
Quality cells like those Samsungs wont burn and explode
They got still electro-mechanical safeties against serious overcurrent or vent, which will separate the Anode from the positive contact
Those cell explosions usually come from overdischarge or other abuse damaging the separator foil inside the cell or overcharge
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Yeah I ordered an $0,88 plastic caliper to measure cells or things that scratch easy. Good Quality 150 mm 6” Gray Plastic Mini Caliper Vernier Gauge Micrometer http://s.aliexpress.com/zQrEFJB3
(from AliExpress Android)
Even cheaper now
Smittyjojo, yes it I’d frustrating, order and forget is rrally best for blood pressure.
Lots have been send out, too late for a V2 marking on box.
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
Yes, I probably shouldn’t understate either. Don’t short a car battery. Those things are often rated for 500+ Amps on a cold day, and in one test of a relatively small battery they measured 1700 A with a dead short. A larger battery sized for a truck could probably put out thousands of Amps. At 12V, that means tens of thousands of Watts, concentrated into a relatively small area, which can cause serious damage or even death.
I had a car battery explode on me once when I turned the ignition. Had the bonnet open (hood for those using corrupted English…) and bits of it landed a good 100 yards away. Quite spectacular but potentially bad for your underwear.
Pages