It would literally only take about 45seconds to move the trace to the other pot pin anyways. I just know it will be easier for me to remember right=bright
I still have not got my BLF A6 to work properly.
If I adjust mode to moon then switch it off I get sometimes a mode were the LED did not light up, so the switch is pressed but no light shines…
I used a 680ohm bleeder.
The diagonal measurement of 4.5mm square will be 1.414 times bigger or ~ 6.3 mm which would almost certainly touch the spring when compressed. Definitely need to know what the case metal is grounded to.
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Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
On the big one Djozz posted, It looks like it’s just a clip and not connected to anything else. On the smaller ones, I think the case is the same as the “slider” pin
Maybe, maybe not. Depends on the internals. I gotta think it’s likely metal for a reason until proven otherwise. Being a resistor it may only be there for absorbing heat. I would test it against the pins for continuity.
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Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Alright, I was able to fit the bigger POT on the top side, and I think I fit the switch cleanly enough on the bottom side. It’s not as pretty as I wanted, but this time function came before form. Check it for errors please.
The listing I ordered my switches from is no longer active, but these look the same. To make the library part, I used the dimensions from this page, but rechecked most of them myself.
Between Pyro’s and my own boards, we’ll have about any option we want!
Right, if you flip the switch around so the button is to the top then the via could go at the bottom(~5 o’clock). You would need to slightly alter the switch traces but I think it should work.
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Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
It bypasses the spring. The vias are sufficient to carry the current through the board but springs are generally poor conductors and can overheat and lose their temper in high current lights like triples. The via allows even a smaller 22-24 gauge wire to dramatically improve output and protect the spring.
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Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
I understand how a spring bypass works, I’m just not following how you want to use the hole. My initial thought was that you wanted to do a DB style pcb-bypass, but are you meaning just to stick the bare wire end into the hole to make soldering easier? If the latter is correct, here you go. It’s a 1.1mm via.
That’s very true funny how that happens. I’m going to let you do the switch versions.
We getting an insane amount of ideas into these switch boards. Go BLF!
I’m going to go ahead and call this the current “Ultimate edition”. As long as you guys don’t find any errors, I’ll be ordering this board very shortly because I can’t think of anything else to add. Of course if we get the transistor idea to work that will bring a completely different level of function, but I think this one will suit my needs perfectly. It’s still not beautiful, but at least it is more balanced now.
It allows for two pots. Only one would be in use at a time, the switch would toggle between the two. So you would use the pots to set ‘high’ and ‘low’ levels at the time of assembly, then use the switch to toggle between those two levels. Or, just leave one of the pots unpopulated and that switch position becomes ‘off’. If you don’t want to use the pots, you can simply bridge the pot pads with a resistor to have essentially the same functionality. Both led’s are on the same circuit.
OD of board is 15.93mm (so it should fit almost anywhere)
Outer ground ring is 2.1mm wide
Gap between rings is 0.93mm
ID of spring ring is 7.4mm
OD of spring ring is 10.8mm (1.7mm wide)
Main power vias are 0.8mm each (1 ounce copper)
Accessory vias are 0.5mm each
Spring bypass via is 1.1mm
According to my measurements, as long as the pots you use only hang over the edge of their pads a tiny bit, an omten 1288 will slip in perfectly between them. Nothing bigger will fit. Everything on this pcb is packed in tight, so you will need to be careful assembling it.
I highly recommend hot-air reflowing but otherwise I recommend soldering in this order:
I don’t see any minimum resistor being set in series. Just wondering, what happens if you set the pot to 0 ohm? With the bleeder resistor only at about 0.5k, will the tiny LED withstand the current?
I don’t see any minimum resistor being set in series. Just wondering, what happens if you set the pot to 0 ohm? With the bleeder resistor only at about 0.5k, will the tiny LED withstand the current?
Right, so don’t set your pots to 0! :bigsmile:
There just isn’t anywhere to put another component that I can see. If you just want the on/off function, Rev2 and Rev3 have the resistor in series with the pot.
With a bleeder of 560 Ohm, and a battery of 4.2V, even without a led the current will be 7.5mA which is fine for those tiny leds. With the led in the circuit it will be less than that.
well that makes it simple enough.
It would literally only take about 45seconds to move the trace to the other pot pin anyways. I just know it will be easier for me to remember right=bright
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
It is a bit bigger (4.5x4.5x2.55mm), but this Bourns 3314 type will fit the solder pads as well I think, and it is a bit more robust:
link to djozz tests
I still have not got my BLF A6 to work properly.
If I adjust mode to moon then switch it off I get sometimes a mode were the LED did not light up, so the switch is pressed but no light shines…
I used a 680ohm bleeder.
I do like that slotted type better than the “phillips” type.
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
I don’t think anything bigger will fit
Pastebin &nbs
The diagonal measurement of 4.5mm square will be 1.414 times bigger or ~ 6.3 mm which would almost certainly touch the spring when compressed. Definitely need to know what the case metal is grounded to.
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
On the big one Djozz posted, It looks like it’s just a clip and not connected to anything else. On the smaller ones, I think the case is the same as the “slider” pin
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
Maybe, maybe not. Depends on the internals. I gotta think it’s likely metal for a reason until proven otherwise. Being a resistor it may only be there for absorbing heat. I would test it against the pins for continuity.
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
This bigger footprint is causing me fits… Will the smaller footprint we originally were using still work? Just less selection in pots?
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
Yes but I haven’t found any POTs in that size
Pastebin &nbs
The Bourns 3302 series?
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3302W-3-103E/3302W-103ETR-ND/61...
2.75x2.2x1.05mm
link to djozz tests
Expensive tho if you don’t need to many due to shipping
Pastebin &nbs
I think the extra cost may be worth it for me though. I can’t find a good way to fit the bigger pot on the top.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/3302W-3-503E/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvy...
Is that the footprint that you originally posted pyro?
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
Yeh the original will fit that pot
UPDATE:
16mm
17mm
Pastebin &nbs
Alright, I was able to fit the bigger POT on the top side, and I think I fit the switch cleanly enough on the bottom side. It’s not as pretty as I wanted, but this time function came before form. Check it for errors please.
The listing I ordered my switches from is no longer active, but these look the same. To make the library part, I used the dimensions from this page, but rechecked most of them myself.
Between Pyro’s and my own boards, we’ll have about any option we want!
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
Looks good. How about a via for spring bypass between the two wide spread pins just kissing the spring ring?
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
I’m not sure if I understand. I think I would have to move a trace and even then the hole would be directly under the switch body.
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
Right, if you flip the switch around so the button is to the top then the via could go at the bottom(~5 o’clock). You would need to slightly alter the switch traces but I think it should work.
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
The via would be between the wide set pin pads and close to the spring ring with a generous trace but wouldn’t be under the switch at all.
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
I mean it would be directly under the clicky switch body… And I don’t really understand the purpose.?
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
It bypasses the spring. The vias are sufficient to carry the current through the board but springs are generally poor conductors and can overheat and lose their temper in high current lights like triples. The via allows even a smaller 22-24 gauge wire to dramatically improve output and protect the spring.
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
I understand how a spring bypass works, I’m just not following how you want to use the hole. My initial thought was that you wanted to do a DB style pcb-bypass, but are you meaning just to stick the bare wire end into the hole to make soldering easier? If the latter is correct, here you go. It’s a 1.1mm via.
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
16mm Rev2 and Rev3 use the switch to go between ‘on’ and ‘off’. I’m going to do a Rev4 tomorrow that uses the switch to go between ‘low’ and ‘high’.
I’m posting this teaser now just in case pyro beats me to the punch
We tend to get the same idea at the same time.
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
That’s very true funny how that happens. I’m going to let you do the switch versions.
We getting an insane amount of ideas into these switch boards. Go BLF!
Pastebin &nbs
I’m going to go ahead and call this the current “Ultimate edition”. As long as you guys don’t find any errors, I’ll be ordering this board very shortly because I can’t think of anything else to add. Of course if we get the transistor idea to work that will bring a completely different level of function, but I think this one will suit my needs perfectly. It’s still not beautiful, but at least it is more balanced now.
It allows for two pots. Only one would be in use at a time, the switch would toggle between the two. So you would use the pots to set ‘high’ and ‘low’ levels at the time of assembly, then use the switch to toggle between those two levels. Or, just leave one of the pots unpopulated and that switch position becomes ‘off’. If you don’t want to use the pots, you can simply bridge the pot pads with a resistor to have essentially the same functionality. Both led’s are on the same circuit.
According to my measurements, as long as the pots you use only hang over the edge of their pads a tiny bit, an omten 1288 will slip in perfectly between them. Nothing bigger will fit. Everything on this pcb is packed in tight, so you will need to be careful assembling it.
I highly recommend hot-air reflowing but otherwise I recommend soldering in this order:
Again, the seller I bought from no longer has them, but I believe these are the same switches.
Once you guys look it over I’ll update the OP.
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
I don’t see any minimum resistor being set in series. Just wondering, what happens if you set the pot to 0 ohm? With the bleeder resistor only at about 0.5k, will the tiny LED withstand the current?
Nice!
I reflow driver boards on a hotplate btw, works perfect as well.
link to djozz tests
Right, so don’t set your pots to 0! :bigsmile:
There just isn’t anywhere to put another component that I can see. If you just want the on/off function, Rev2 and Rev3 have the resistor in series with the pot.
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
With a bleeder of 560 Ohm, and a battery of 4.2V, even without a led the current will be 7.5mA which is fine for those tiny leds. With the led in the circuit it will be less than that.
link to djozz tests
Good info Djozz.
I’m a bit absent-minded at the moment, so if someone could check my circuit that would be great.
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
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