D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

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This stuff is really cool but what is the fix for the driver? the light doesn't even have to get super hot, just warm, and the modes don't work right until it cools down. I've tried thermal cubes on the c1 with bleeder resistor and on the mcu and wether I have it installed in a triple led light or a single xml2 emitter light it's always the same story, across a range of drivers with a range of firmwares, from 7135x8 njangs with 3/5mode firmware, mtn17dd with guppydrv, mtn17ddm with blf a6, the new temp controlled drivers in the x5/x6. As cool as the lighted tailcaps are, without the light comming on in low every time and strobes never working unless I am bored, I can't use it, and neither can my friends that really want lighted tailcaps in their lights. Same deal with the new x5 and x6 lights (so I know I'm not crazy and it's not just me) it's just not as bad because they have so much copper.

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zoom zoom wrote:

This stuff is really cool but what is the fix for the driver? the light doesn’t even have to get super hot, just warm, and the modes don’t work right until it cools down. I’ve tried thermal cubes on the c1 with bleeder resistor and on the mcu …


Could you explain “modes don’t work right” in more detail?

I assume it’s an issue related to button timing? Thermal cubes on C1 are unlikely to help. However, it might help to give the OTC an actual resistor to help it drain more consistently. Or perhaps use different R1 and R2 values to change the drain pattern (but I don’t really know the details). Or use a higher value in the tail to reduce overall standby current.

This is all in the realm of analog circuit design though, so it’s not my specialty. I’m just repeating other people’s thoughts on the matter.

djozz
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ToyKeeper wrote:
zoom zoom wrote:

This stuff is really cool but what is the fix for the driver? the light doesn't even have to get super hot, just warm, and the modes don't work right until it cools down. I've tried thermal cubes on the c1 with bleeder resistor and on the mcu ...

Could you explain "modes don't work right" in more detail? I assume it's an issue related to button timing? Thermal cubes on C1 are unlikely to help. However, it might help to give the OTC an actual resistor to help it drain more consistently. Or perhaps use different R1 and R2 values to change the drain pattern (but I don't really know the details). Or use a higher value in the tail to reduce overall standby current. This is all in the realm of analog circuit design though, so it's not my specialty. I'm just repeating other people's thoughts on the matter.

I found that mode changing issues get less when rhe resistor before the tail leds are higher, you get less tail-light but the modes work again. 

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I wish it was that easy, but even turning the current draw down to .15 which is the lowest I can go and still get any light at all, causes the same effect. 

Let your x5 or X6 run on high for awhile and you'll see what I'm talking about. It is worse in an aluminum host due to poor(er) heatsinking.  

A picture is worth 1,000 words, so a video should be even better. I'll see what I can do about that today.

I have been stacking the bleeder on top of the C1, but I will try using it as a resistor for the otc cap instead...or I have some accidentally ordered 560K ohm resistors I could use for the OTC if you think that would be better?

 

 

**edit, it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be to upload. This early in the morning I guess noone is hogging my Internets!

 

https://youtu.be/uTvak-VhfW8

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pilotdog68 wrote:
Before and after: ...

The blue S2+ looks pretty awesome. Could I ask though what was done? Looked back a few posts - maybe further back?

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I haven’t really said much about the S2+, because it’s not really done. That was just a mock-up to show how it would look. I’m waiting on Oshpark to deliver parts.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Tom E wrote:

pilotdog68 wrote:
Before and after: …

The blue S2+ looks pretty awesome. Could I ask though what was done? Looked back a few posts – maybe further back?

Don’t mean to step in on PD’s discussion but I can answer this. You didn’t find it because it kinda follows from another discussion in a different thread. Bottom line, he removed this black rubber piece from the switch mechanism:

…so that the light from the board can get through.

You can read how it all goes together in this thread.

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TK, the blinkenlights will get pirated by the people making those hotwired inhalers for the stoner-vaper crowd.
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hank wrote:
TK, the blinkenlights will get pirated by the people making those hotwired inhalers for the stoner-vaper crowd. __________________ “I was not predicting the future, I was trying to prevent it.” ― Ray Bradbury

 

 

I build box mods for a prestigious local shop, and we have no use for lighted switches. Occasionally someone will use a lighted switch, but it is not commonly accepted as A good thing due to using .01A that the atomizer could use, and the extra parasitic drain is "bad". Like anyone would notice the loss of power, but the masses don't like it.

 

I vape also, and the insinuation that I am a stoner is offensive and ignorant, but hey if you want to be ignorant, that's on you. I won't call you names or imply your on drugs for it.

 

 

Has anyone thought about squeezing a mosfet into the design? You could eliminate the Omten 1288 switch in favor of a smaller tactile switch and a FET that would be much more suitable for the conditions, and have room on that upper board for more leds if you didn't need the big hole in the middle. Would also free up a lit of space in the tailcap and possibly eventually lead to shorter flashlights if designed to optimize the newfound space.

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hank wrote:
TK, the blinkenlights will get pirated by the people making those hotwired inhalers for the stoner-vaper crowd. __________________ “I was not predicting the future, I was trying to prevent it.” ― Ray Bradbury

Smoke, Smoke, Smoke that cigarette. Puff, puff, puff, until you puff your self to death.
Tell Saint Peter at that Golden Gate, Lord you hate to make him wait, but you got to have another cigarette. Smile
Commander Cody

Bug

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Zoom, I’m not following how a smaller switch with a FET would work, can you elaborate?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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I'm not too familiar with electronics, but since we are charging the host with +power to power the leds(connecting batt+to ground through bleeder resistor) maybe that can be used to trigger the gate leg of a mosfet (with a tactile switch) which would then allow power to flow between the source and the drain, turning on the light... Or if there is a way to put a negative trigger on a negative load from drain to source? A mosfet would be able to handle the power with ease so we wouldn't be burning out switches anymore.

 

I am not real familiar with different types of mosfets, so wether it would need an NPN or PNP or other type of transistor is beyond me. It may just be wishful thinking on my part but hopefully someone that knows more can chime in?

hank
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Those are two separate groups.
Some evaporator users consume other than tobacco..
Those people (except in Colorado and Washington) don’t buy from public sources.
You’re a public source. You don’t get patronized by the people I’m thinking of.
Nothing in that description refers to you.
People can tell the difference.

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You are overgeneralizing and stereotyping an entire community, and in essence myself being included in that community calling me a stoner. Which I am not. That is ignorant. You are being ignorant. That is not calling you names, that is stating fact. 

 

This is not the place for that discussion, so I digress.

jingleberry
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Any way to make the led pulse?

Are resistors needed for MTN’s 17DD FET drivers?

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jingleberry wrote:
Any way to make the led pulse?

Are resistors needed for MTN’s 17DD FET drivers?

Yes, the 17DD drivers, just like most (all?) common lineair drivers, need a bleeder resistor to leak enough current for the tail circuitry

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Full assortment of the smart and latest non-smart boards arrived today… Is there any firmware that anyone has hacked in prep for these boards? If so, where to get it? I may get time to put one together this weekend for testing. I will get one of the new ring boards together as I have a need for one.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

pilotdog68
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You got yours before I got mine! Did Osh cut the middle out of the rings like they were supposed ot?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Yes, they look great!

boards and copper

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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I got a shipping notification for my oshpark order today, so mine are on the way. I didn’t order the smart boards though. Probably going to regret that when you guys start putting together that new awesomeness and I’m here just building my first “dumb” boards Smile

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mattlward wrote:
Full assortment of the smart and latest non-smart boards arrived today… Is there any firmware that anyone has hacked in prep for these boards? If so, where to get it?

Check post #764.

You might be the first person to actually try it.

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I’ve got too much on at the moment so I’m going to wait and see if you guys can get the smart boards working then I will jump on the band wagon.

Good Luck

Pastebin                                      &nbs

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I got some “dumb” boards today, still waiting on the “smart” boards. Moving the LEDs up and getting rid of the spacer/washer brings a huge increase in efficiency.

Notice my meter is on the micro amp scale = 0.0207ma. So theoretically a 2500mah cell would last 13+ years of constant use before being totally empty. I had to completely max-out a 50k pot to get this brightness.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Don’t worry, an attiny will bring that crazy runtime back down to sane levels. ;P

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Sorry if this has been mentioned (haven’t read every post), but has anyone tried the multicolor led’s that change colors?

Newb

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bdiddle wrote:
Sorry if this has been mentioned (haven’t read every post), but has anyone tried the multicolor led’s that change colors?

I did buy some to try, but they were too big. I haven’t seen any smaller than 5mm.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

wight
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pilotdog68 wrote:
[snip]
theoretically a 2500mah cell would last 13+ years of constant use before being totally empty.
[snip]
Now you’re talkin’ – that’s the kind of number I like. Wink

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

bdiddle
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pilotdog68 wrote:
bdiddle wrote:
Sorry if this has been mentioned (haven’t read every post), but has anyone tried the multicolor led’s that change colors?
I did buy some to try, but they were too big. I haven’t seen any smaller than 5mm.

I got some that are 0805 footprint. Slowly change colors, but stay on red the longest. Looks interesting sitting on a shelf. I think it needs more voltage than the standard LEDs.

Color LED’s

On a different note, have you considered putting some more of the consolidated knowledge in the first post?
Typical resistor values that work with different color LED’s, etc? Makes it easier for people who have not been following the thread from the start.

Newb

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Got most of the smart board built today. But, when I test them onboard with diode check on my meter only the pair 4 will light. Pairs 3 and 5 appear to not be good onboard, if I remove them and diode check them they light fine? I do not have the resistors on the board for any of the LED’s, I plan to solder small wires in place and breadboard it so that I can find the correct resistor values. Not really sure where to start, maybe 2 to 4K. I will also breadboard the power supply to the board so I can get the 560 dropping resistor in-line with out doing weird things to a light.

20160214_225817
20160214_225705

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

saypat
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[quote=jingleberry]Any way to make the led pulse?

What a GREAT idea!!!! I want a pulsing LED on my tailcap! And selectable pulse modulation. Is that the right word, modulation?

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