D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

1813 posts / 0 new
Last post
gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 min 58 sec ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 3127
Location: Central IL

Thanks. Yeah, I saw those and a few others. I just can’t seem to find any clear ones in the right size Sad

Barkuti
Barkuti's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 46 min ago
Joined: 02/19/2014 - 14:46
Posts: 5530
Location: Alhama de Murcia, Spain

Sooo, the bleeder resistor thing plus the tailcap resistor(s) is the path which powers the tailcap leds. For 2x blue leds with 330Ω resistors each, which is 165Ω average, what do you think is a reasonable bleeder resistor? I say this because looks like some of you use a much higher value bleeder resistor than what pilotdog68 suggests in the opening post. This of course is to reduce tailcap leds' current draw but, how much is too much? I think I'll try 2 - 3KΩ at first, hope the tailcap can still be seen reasonably with that. ♪~ ᕕ(ᐛ)ᕗ

 

Cheers Party 

Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.

Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.

I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul. Innocent

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 22 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 17958
Location: Amsterdam

It also depends very much on the driver, on some drivers it will never work without messing up the switching timings, but I often use 680 Ohm bleeder and a few thousand Ohm in series with the tail leds, it sounds like your 330Ohm is very low.

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 min 58 sec ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 3127
Location: Central IL

The tail resistors also depends on if you’re using a ring-style board or the older style with the LEDs mounted on the switch board. Based on your 2 LEDs and each with a resistor, I’m guessing it’s the switch board style. Even still, that resistance sounds low. For a 2 channel blue ring board, I would usually use ~14,000 ohm resistors. Not sure about the older style.

My go-to bleeder is a 750 Ohm on nanjg105c drivers. For drivers using an OTC, it really varies as djozz said. I’ve used 220 and I’ve used 1200 (and still not had great results with some!)

Barkuti
Barkuti's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 46 min ago
Joined: 02/19/2014 - 14:46
Posts: 5530
Location: Alhama de Murcia, Spain

Mmm, for an H1-A I will have to try and see what happens:

 

 

I think it should work no problem, but of course I cannot say for sure. Big Smile

gchart wrote:
… For drivers using an OTC, it really varies as djozz said. I've used 220 and I've used 1200 (and still not had great results with some!)

Is OTC = On Time Capacitor? The H1-A memorizes used mode after ≈2S, but as far as I can see in the above diagram the bleeder resistor shouldn't mess with this stuff. Am I right if I say C14 and C13 are the MCU power timing capacitors? (^̮^) Well, of course I have not analyzed how it really behaves but looks like that.

 

Cheers Party 

 

Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.

Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.

I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul. Innocent

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 min 58 sec ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 3127
Location: Central IL

Well, I meant an Off-Time Capacitor like you’d see on the BLF A6 or X6 drivers. For drivers with on-time memory, I’ve had good luck and they haven’t been very picky about the bleeder value. Some of them actually work ok without a bleeder, though very little current can pass thru – a bleeder might help brighten up the tailcap. I’d try something like an 840 Ohm perhaps for an on-time driver. Just my 2 cents… I could be way off base.

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 min 58 sec ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 3127
Location: Central IL

Quick tip for bleeders on the nanjg105c-style drivers: I picked up some 1206-sized resistors (from here) and they fit nicely between star1 and the spring. No bridging or stretching needed. And much easier than trying to arrange an 0805 between the 7135 and the spring.

PS – if you haven’t seen them yet, I’ve whipped up some simple constant-brightness tailcaps with LVP built in. Post here.

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 min 58 sec ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 3127
Location: Central IL

With a tip of the hat to PD68, who was working with this idea 3 years ago … I built a new “smart” tailcap tonight. More details in this post

Geuzzz
Geuzzz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 33 min 32 sec ago
Joined: 10/25/2015 - 10:27
Posts: 1455
Location: Netherlands

Verry cool gchart!

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 22 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 17958
Location: Amsterdam

That is very cool gchart, does any light have such a clear voltage readout?

MRsDNF
MRsDNF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 6 days ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
Posts: 13473
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

Nicely gone gchart. Beer Is there a very simple way to explain how it works?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 min 58 sec ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 3127
Location: Central IL

There’s a bit more detail in the post linked above, but in essence… It uses an MCU to take periodic voltage readings (using internal VREF) and set the 8 LEDs which are on separate I/O channels. It goes to sleep and periodically wakes up to take another reading.

Barkuti
Barkuti's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 46 min ago
Joined: 02/19/2014 - 14:46
Posts: 5530
Location: Alhama de Murcia, Spain

gchart wrote:
With a tip of the hat to PD68, who was working with this idea 3 years ago ... I built a new "smart" tailcap tonight. More details in this post

Nice but, as it is, I think it lacks continuity. I mean, the amount of lighted leds versus voltage is way off. Taking a look at some typical cell discharge curves (Batteries & Chargers @ lygte-info.dk) can help with the voltage steps for a better capacity/energy to amount of lighted leds mapping.

 

P.S.: if the animation somehow gets in the way of practical usage, I'd remove it.

Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.

Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.

I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul. Innocent

MRsDNF
MRsDNF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 6 days ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
Posts: 13473
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

Thanks. You said it perfectly. So its using something I have very little of (a brain) to turn the leds on and off. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 min 58 sec ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 3127
Location: Central IL

MRsDNF wrote:
Thanks. You said it perfectly. So its using something I have very little of (a brain) to turn the leds on and off. Thumbs Up

I wouldn’t say that, I’ve seen some of your creations!

I’m really learning this MCU stuff as I go. I have a background in computers/coding, but nothing like microcontrollers. And this is using the new AVR Tiny-1 series which doesn’t have quite as much background or documentation floating around as the older ones (13A, 25, 85, etc)

MRsDNF
MRsDNF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 6 days ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
Posts: 13473
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

It appears the learning is coming along nicely. Again well done. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Lothar
Lothar's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 12 hours ago
Joined: 10/26/2011 - 11:22
Posts: 546
Location: Stellenbosch, South Africa

Give that man (gchart) a Bells! Beer

Current Collection:

BLF: BLF-GT90, BLF-GT70 (CW Sliced), BLF GTmini, BLF-LT1; 

BTU: Shocker (3 x SST-40 @ 8A)

Solarforce: L2P (XM-L2 U3 @ 4A), MPP-1 (XP-L HI @ 6A), MPP-3 (3 x XM-L2 U2 @ 12A), M6 (Nichia 319A @ 6A), M8 (XHP-50.2 @ 9A), 9x (9 x XM-L2 U2 @ 2A)

Coming Soon: Lumintop: BLF-GT4; 

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 16 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10725
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
gchart wrote:
I’m really learning this MCU stuff as I go. I have a background in computers/coding, but nothing like microcontrollers. And this is using the new AVR Tiny-1 series which doesn’t have quite as much background or documentation floating around as the older ones (13A, 25, 85, etc)

That’s really cool. Which tiny-1 MCU are you using? How are you getting it to work? I haven’t really looked into the software toolchain or the hardware adapters for those, other than periodically checking to see if it’s supported yet in Debian… which it isn’t.

Some of BLF’s circuit designers would really like to use it though, and it’s only really being held back by toolchain and firmware support.

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 min 58 sec ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 3127
Location: Central IL

ToyKeeper wrote:
[That’s really cool. Which tiny-1 MCU are you using? How are you getting it to work? I haven’t really looked into the software toolchain or the hardware adapters for those, other than periodically checking to see if it’s supported yet in Debian… which it isn’t.

Some of BLF’s circuit designers would really like to use it though, and it’s only really being held back by toolchain and firmware support.


Hey TK! Great questions. I’m a Linux guy, but honestly I’ve been using Windows (my first Windows installation for almost 20 years!) with Atmel Studio 7. So far I’ve programmed the 412, 416, and 817. I’ve compiled code for them on Linux, but haven’t flashed using Linux yet. I intend to try that soon.

I think this stuff warrants it’s own thread to help stay focused and drive learning about these chips. I’ll probably start one in the next day or so to share code samples, tips on getting started, and my overall thoughts.

Side note, but I really wish Atmel Studio was available on Linux and Mac. It’s been great having a proper IDE, nice debugging tools, fuse selection dialogs, etc. Up to this point, I’ve just been using Linux text editors to do AVR programming (Viva Pico!)

light.speed
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 9 months ago
Joined: 02/19/2018 - 22:38
Posts: 71
Location: Ontario, Canada

Really sorry to revive this thread, but is there a 19mm version of the Rev5 bottom board? I'll be using it with the Big Switch top board (forward clicky switch) but my host only takes 19mm tailswitch boards. 

 

Was trying to make my own in Altium Designer but I have no clue what I'm doing lol please help

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 5 days ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3739
Location: North Carolina

Is this what you need https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/VmMmaW54
It was mentioned in the first post and referenced to post #1064

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 min 58 sec ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 3127
Location: Central IL

By asking for the “bottom board”, I’m assuming that’s the switch board (tail spring on one side, switch on the other).

While I haven’t seen an Oshpark posting for that, I’ll say that I’ve probably made 50+ illuminated tailcaps and have never once used one of the bottom boards. Unless you’re going for the potentiometer-under-spring functionally, I don’t see any reason in replacing the switch board.

light.speed
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 9 months ago
Joined: 02/19/2018 - 22:38
Posts: 71
Location: Ontario, Canada

I think I'm a bit confused here, how is the power supplied to the ring board (top) if you don't use the base switch PCB which has the through holes for the wire?

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 min 58 sec ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 3127
Location: Central IL

You can run wires directly from the new PCB to the existing one (I solder mine directly to the legs of the switch)

light.speed
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 9 months ago
Joined: 02/19/2018 - 22:38
Posts: 71
Location: Ontario, Canada

Does polarity matter or can I use either contact on the switch for the + and - on the ring board?

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 5 days ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3739
Location: North Carolina

The switch has no polarity, it can go either way.
But I’m not clear how this is being wired in and polarity does matter with the leds so wait for gchart to answer.

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 min 58 sec ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 3127
Location: Central IL

On your switch board, one side will have vias (the holes) on the outer ring. That’s your positive side.

light.speed
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 9 months ago
Joined: 02/19/2018 - 22:38
Posts: 71
Location: Ontario, Canada

 Ohh, I see now. Thanks you guys! Will be building this into a laser so hopefully this works. 

Hoop
Hoop's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 17 hours ago
Joined: 12/20/2012 - 05:33
Posts: 1036
Location: Spokane, WA

light.speed wrote:

Really sorry to revive this thread


There is no reason to be sorry about that.
Natewar
Natewar's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 3 days ago
Joined: 10/22/2019 - 20:52
Posts: 88
Location: Pennsylvania,usa

Probably a stupid question but is there a way to have the lighted tailcap only come on when the lights on?

Pages