BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.

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chouster
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Yeah, diamond is actually an insulator, not electrically conductive at all, but great thermal conductivity. Basically you could coat whole drivers or such with it, if you can afford.

I have had some “milky/cloudy” lenses in 5 Convoy L2’s and just couldn’t get rid of it. Tried pure water, water with dishwashing detergent, glass cleaner and ethyl alcohol… What else could I try? Don’t want to pay 20$ with shipping for an UCLp lens…

chouster
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Sharpie, that optics cleaner that you’re using, do you have a link for me, please? thx

jacktheclipper
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DB Custom
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Here we call that doubt, venom is MUCH stronger. When one person continually has inexplicable issues with items that many have in hand and no one else is reporting such issues, calling BS is highly called for.

And come on, if that UK manufacturer had the BEST bench-rest actions in the world he would NOT have shown up with JUNK! A flashlight tail cap is hardly a rifle action, tolerances are not even in the same ball park. No pressure to speak of to induce this galling effect that grabs and seizes. My gunsmith friend knew better, back in the late 80’s and early 90’s, and he was just a small town kid that went to college and learned how to build guns for a living. So yeah, face to face with the guy that built these “exquisite locked up pieces of crap” I’d call BullShi*. I’m not saying this guy can’t build a good weapon, but he failed miserably in more ways than one when he showed up to a trade show with untested freshly machined parts that seized.

There is a game played where a story is told, the players can buy into the story or call Bull Shi*, if they call and the story was legit, there’s a price to pay in the game. Calling BS is not venomous, not lethal by any stretch of the imagination… it’s merely expressing doubt based on experience. Putting the ball in your court, as it were, placing provenance on you… the originator of the statements in question.

When/if the other 398 holders of these SS X6’s speak up on the galling issue, we’ll then have all the data.

alex1234
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So i got my lights and the quality is great, there heavy as hell the light in the tail is cool. my serial numbers dont match and mine are above 253. i have 331 on the x5 and 356 on the x6. the beam on my x5 was good but idk whats the deal with the x6. the led is so badly centered its not even funny. so bad that i dont have a clear hotspot. is bad. and because the reflector screws in i cant do any adjustments. kinda sucks. is anyone checking the beam on these when they are made? im pretty dissapointed about the beam

bear
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I don’t mean to be pushy or rude when I ask this, so I apologize in advance if it comes out that way:

What’s the estimated amount of time left for people who haven’t used their codes, to use them? So the wailisted people can get theirs?

Seeing all the great posts on this set is making me pretty desperate to get my own. Haha

hank
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I’m glad I’m not your doctor or accountant, that’s the solipsist question nobody else can answer for you (grin).

Seriously, there’s much newly known about how the body clocks work, and why blue light regulates the body clocks, that you’d likely find informs what you do.
A couple of recent examples found with Google Scholar:

http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.3109/07420528.2015.1119158
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.3109/07420528.2015.1108980

Quote:
You can go wrong by being too skeptical as readily as by being too trusting. — “Notebooks of Lazarus Long” — Robert Heinlein

Not asking you to think your own experience is wrong.
Just asking you to consider that other people’s reports aren’t wrong when they differ from your experience.

chouster
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Thank you, Sharpie.

HighCaliber
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alex1234 wrote:
... the beam on my x5 was good but idk whats the deal with the x6. the led is so badly centered its not even funny. so bad that i dont have a clear hotspot. is bad. and because the reflector screws in i cant do any adjustments. kinda sucks. is anyone checking the beam on these when they are made? im pretty dissapointed about the beam

Someone posted earlier that if you remove the reflector, the 2 screws holding the board down can be loosened and the position of the LED can be slightly adjusted before re-tightening the 2 screws.  Not a lot of slack to play with but it might fix/improve you situation. 

saypat
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jacktheclipper wrote:

It takes a village …

Wonderful video, and story. Really enjoyed it Jack, thanks for posting! After watching it, I long to be a part of their ‘community.’

alex1234
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HighCaliber wrote:

alex1234 wrote:
… the beam on my x5 was good but idk whats the deal with the x6. the led is so badly centered its not even funny. so bad that i dont have a clear hotspot. is bad. and because the reflector screws in i cant do any adjustments. kinda sucks. is anyone checking the beam on these when they are made? im pretty dissapointed about the beam

Someone posted earlier that if you remove the reflector, the 2 screws holding the board down can be loosened and the position of the LED can be slightly adjusted before re-tightening the 2 screws.  Not a lot of slack to play with but it might fix/improve you situation. 

i took out both screws and i was able to get a perfect focus with 1 screw. the other screw hole does not line up to get both screws in. Im sure its fine with 1 screw right? does the reflector float above the board or does it press down a little? now im quite happy. i need to get some imr 14500s. i only have 1 trustfire 14500. output is low

hank
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Quote:
… things are not being posted … people are … making attempts to get refunds, discounts etc etc

Any successful purchase, when public, is going to attract scammers like that.

This is a reason to encourage people to publicly identify problems before hassling the supplier.
(And a reason not to hassle people who do publicly identify problems.
Only workable with minimal drama on all sides, tough as that is)

(It’s also why it’d be useful for someone to keep a moderated list of known problems — that way, a person’s post isn’t treated as pointless piling on — it’s a data point to add to the list, and it’s also a QA/QC punch list to pass on to the supplier as things to watch for)

Many of the little annoyances can be fixed at home, once identified and people contribute solutions.

Examples — the hammer fix suggested for the X5 clip problem, or how to recenter a misaligned emitter — above.

People who buy through a group, behave as members of the group, and work out problems as members, work well enough together (we all have rough edges)

That cuts out the parasites who won’t want to be identified in public.

Dwantink
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Got my lights, they are awesome. They are beautiful and bright. I have one issue though with knurling on my ss light. There is a section on the bezel edge where there is knurling where it should not be. Other than that they are perfection. Thanks to all who made this possible, can’t wait to see what team Kronos comes up with next!! :bigsmile:

HighCaliber
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alex1234 wrote:
 i took out both screws and i was able to get a perfect focus with 1 screw. the other screw hole does not line up to get both screws in. Im sure its fine with 1 screw right? does the reflector float above the board or does it press down a little? now im quite happy. i need to get some imr 14500s. i only have 1 trustfire 14500. output is low

Alex, based on my observations of my lights, the reflector does press on the board. I have 2 semi-circular marks where contact is made. As for one vs. both screws, I would assume it would hold as long as it does not suffer a bad jolt/drop. I am not sure if there are any other concerns with using only one screw. 

Brett H
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DB Custom wrote:
Here we call that doubt, venom is MUCH stronger. When one person continually has inexplicable issues with items that many have in hand and no one else is reporting such issues, calling BS is highly called for.

And come on, if that UK manufacturer had the BEST bench-rest actions in the world he would NOT have shown up with JUNK! A flashlight tail cap is hardly a rifle action, tolerances are not even in the same ball park. No pressure to speak of to induce this galling effect that grabs and seizes. My gunsmith friend knew better, back in the late 80’s and early 90’s, and he was just a small town kid that went to college and learned how to build guns for a living. So yeah, face to face with the guy that built these “exquisite locked up pieces of crap” I’d call BullShi*. I’m not saying this guy can’t build a good weapon, but he failed miserably in more ways than one when he showed up to a trade show with untested freshly machined parts that seized.

There is a game played where a story is told, the players can buy into the story or call Bull Shi*, if they call and the story was legit, there’s a price to pay in the game. Calling BS is not venomous, not lethal by any stretch of the imagination… it’s merely expressing doubt based on experience. Putting the ball in your court, as it were, placing provenance on you… the originator of the statements in question.

When/if the other 398 holders of these SS X6’s speak up on the galling issue, we’ll then have all the data.

Yep, I’ve played that game back in the day and the “penalty” was to drink some more :bigsmile: . Is that the same game Dale?

myhken
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Got my first of two Al sets today (normal shipping, they are really fast). The X5 is totally fine (except me making some scratches removing the clip), but on the X6, I get a yellow spot in the center of the beam.
You can see here, not the best picture, taken with my phone, but you can see the yellow spot. I do not have that spot on the SS/Cu X6 light.

What can I do, and is this a possible requesting a new light, or something. I can nothing about fixing lights, but maybe there is only a part I can change my self, without any soldering or such thing, since I have no equipment of that sort.

Kenneth Myhre

onetrickpony
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myhken wrote:
Got my first of two Al sets today (normal shipping, they are really fast). The X5 is totally fine (except me making some scratches removing the clip), but on the X6, I get a yellow spot in the center of the beam.
You can see here, not the best picture, taken with my phone, but you can see the yellow spot. I do not have that spot on the SS/Cu X6 light.

What can I do, and is this a possible requesting a new light, or something. I can nothing about fixing lights, but maybe there is only a part I can change my self, without any soldering or such thing, since I have no equipment of that sort.

Check the centering of the led as said above, also make sure your reflector is screwed down all the way, it threads on inside the light, mine was a little loose. This is an added feature of the light btw, it allows for better heat transfer and for focusing.

Btw, you can search the thread, and the whole forum…

myhken
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Stupid question, but how do I open the head of the light. I can open the part with the glass, and then get the reflector? , but I can’t open anything else, so can not center the light.

Edit: On the SS/CU I can screw up the reflector, and get to the led. But on the Al X6, it will not screw open at all. I have tried with all my force. Is this normal?

Kenneth Myhre

zoom zoom
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I paid $188 for a single copper HOST. Which was the cheapest copper host in 18650 cell type I could find....well, the base price of the light was, the extra $88 incurred because I couldn't live without crenelations and tritium slots and a decent clip....

 

It came to me with two dings on the head, which really are visible and detract from the appearance of the light when the head is screwed onto the battery tube. Then there was a small nick on one of the crenelations, as well as a ding on the corner of the tailcap...and this is the first I've aired that dirty laundry, and only as an example omitting the obvious brand of light, like many many others who I'm sure have had the same issues. 

 

The fact that we get NOT one, but TWO hosts carved from metals much nicer and much more expensive and harder to work with than the cheaper aluminum is astounding! 

 

Then someone wants a discount, free light, or whatever over a barely noticable spot in the middle of the beam that could probably be fixed with a phillips screwdriver in less than 2 minutes.............

 

I would probably be getting mad at about that point if I were responsible for anything to do with it, but I'm not so I get to laugh!

just to put it out there, and I don't expect anything for it...... (One of) my X5 lens and reflector were fogged up when I opened the box, and on the tailcap threads of one of my X5's, the threads were "gulled" if thats what you would call it. It didn't want to screw back together, had a really rough spot, so I cleaned the leftover metal shavings from machining out of the threads with a Q-Tip and forced it back together, pulled it apart and put some dielectric grease on(don't say it, works just fine) and the threads are smooth as butter.

 

 

 

I have a bad driver in one of my X5's (it's stuck in muggle mode?!). Instead of expecting discounts or a new free copper light, could someone please let me know if and where I can purchase a replacement driver, please! 

onetrickpony
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myhken wrote:
Stupid question, but how do I open the head of the light. I can open the part with the glass, and then get the reflector? , but I can’t open anything else, so can not center the light.

Unscrew the bezel/head (knurled stainless) from the pill area (finned copper) and you will see a bit of the reflector sticking out. You can twist the reflector in or out at this point and see the change in the beam without reattaching the bezel/head. Pretty nifty, right?

When you get it how you want it screw the head back on, be careful that the reflector stays where you wanted it if it wasn’t bottomed out.

onetrickpony
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I forgot to mention, just unscrew the reflector and remove it (don’t touch the inside, pain in the but to clean, seriously) to get at the screws holding down the led mcpcb, loosen them a little and center the led, then re tighten the screws and re install your reflector at the focus you want.

1dash1
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zoom zoom wrote:
I have a bad driver in one of my X5’s (it’s stuck in muggle mode?!). Instead of expecting discounts or a new free copper light, could someone please let me know if and where I can purchase a replacement driver, please! 

That’s the spirit! Smile

Quite a refreshing change of pace from reading the button-top 30Q discussion string.

Rule 1-1 as it applies to life, take it as it comes.

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myhken wrote:
Stupid question, but how do I open the head of the light. I can open the part with the glass, and then get the reflector? , but I can’t open anything else, so can not center the light.

Edit: On the SS/CU I can screw up the reflector, and get to the led. But on the Al X6, it will not screw open at all. I have tried with all my force. Is this normal?


Hi Kenneth,
I took a photo of how the Aluminum X6 disassembles(not a great photo, but you can see the seperate parts.
 photo 1B72DF5B-CBD8-428F-B2B5-A16208D81867.jpg
Mine was very easy to open by hand, but if they are stubborn strap wrenches are the easiest solution(mine are Craftsman from Sears). I have also used a thin rubber mat that is sold to help open stubborn jars also. Good luck,
Ed
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Here is the final step I left out of the last photo:
 photo 5539542D-E798-470A-9095-83312D88EDED.jpg

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Sharpie wrote:
I’m finding the step down from turbo occurs quite soon on factory setting, From cold it started after 1’30” then kept going all the way to near-moonlight after only twelve minutes.

Why did it keep on going down instead of stabilising ?

Copper head never got particularly warm.


This should probably be a FAQ somewhere since people keep asking, but… the thermal ceiling needs to be calibrated. Individual attiny25 units vary too much to be able to use one value for every light, so it needs per-unit calibration. Your individual light probably thinks that room temperature is “too hot”.

Tapping the button at config item 7 should put it into a special thermal calibration mode. It starts out on a low-medium level then goes up to maximum and stays there.

You can disable thermal regulation entirely by turning the light off while it’s still in low-medium…

… or you can set a new heat limit by leaving the light on until you think it’s too hot, then shutting the light off. I recommend using a freshly-charged cell for this, and it may need to run for several minutes before it’s hot.

onetrickpony
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I was curious about the galling issue, not because I’m worried about my lights per se, more that I just like to know stuff.

Here’s an article I thought seemed pretty informative about the causes and some solutions.

http://www.estainlesssteel.com/gallingofstainless.html

They mention molybdenum, graphite, mica and talc, but it seems that the focus is on fasteners that are installed and left in place, considering that they also talk about reducing rpm during installation. I doubt anyone is installing their tailcap at three thousand rpm Silly

I need to read the rest of it but I thought it might be helpful.
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DB Custom wrote:
Blue light is not conducive to sleep? Really?

Yeah, humans have a physiological reaction to blue light. Special cells in the eye (ipRGCs, intrinsically photosensitive retinal ganglion cells) respond to sky-blue light and signal the brain to produce serotonin and suppress melatonin. This means that, when people see sunlight or other light sources with the relevant frequencies, they will generally feel more awake. Then when it’s dark, the brain makes more melatonin and less serotonin, which makes people feel sleepy after a few hours according to their individual phase response curve.

Some people don’t have this reaction, about 3 out of 10,000 people according to the studies I’ve seen… and out of those 3, statistically, 2 are legally blind.

I’m that oddball 1-in-10,000 case who lacks this reaction but yet can still see… so I can’t really use light as a way to regulate my circadian rhythms.

Anyway, I think the blue tailcaps are cool. I just want to tone it down a bit to extend standby time and make it a bit less eye-catching in public.

will34
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Received my #110 set today

-Box came in perfect conditions
-Lights are heavy and have a premium feel
-Fit and finish are far from perfect but on par with other lights this price.
-Both LEDs are uncentered, will adjust this later.
-Clicky feels solid
-In the X5, copper heatsink is noticeably a different color than the rest of the body.
-A couple small details in the exterior of both lights, not big deal
-Clip for X6 is not enough to hold such a heavy light

Will report with readings when I get home.

myhken
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Crazyeddie wrote:
Here is the final step I left out of the last photo:

It’s this last part I can’t do with my Al X6. It goes fine with SS/Cu X6 and X5 and the Al X5, but on the Al X6 it’s impossible to remove the “shiny” thing. (reflector right?) It will not screw any way, will not move at all.
So this light has the yellow spot in the center of the beam, that’s is annoying, and a reflector that will not move at all.

Time to contact Neal?

Kenneth Myhre

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Tom E wrote:
So I pulled off the C1 cap on one of these new light drivers and tested it — it appears to be a 12 uF cap as best as I can tell.

Awesome, thanks for testing that!

I’m not even sure how to test the capacity of a capacitor…

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