BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.

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Rufusbduck
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Might need to anneal it first then retemper it after to prevent breakage. Forcing it to bend otherwise would weaken it I think. Maybe a non issue, maybe not.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Billy X
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I wasn’t on BLF since wednesday and didn’t check this thread for 2 or 3 more days…and…841 new posts :_( .It takes longer to skim the new posts on this thread than ALL of the (potentially interesting)other threads’ recent posts!
Can I assume that anything important will be added to the OP?I see the UI is there and something about the mixed up s/n’s in the unboxed ss/cu lights.
Dale…you talk too much :bigsmile:

ZED
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To add to the unimportant posts on the thread: “Origin post is preparing shipment. We have received notice…” I ordered on the 29th and it says shipped. You think it’s coming or even in the country or did I wait til to near the year of the monkey?

-Zach

Juggeli
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The no 176 of 400 arrived here on Finland. Not bad delivery time for normal registered post.

I’ll have to nitpick that my X6 has a embedded fingerprint on the copper heatsink Sad I guess that somebody was quite impatient and touched the part while the lacquer wasn’t completely dry. I’ll have to try my luck stripping the finish and shining it up, or just strip the finish and let it get some patina. Haven’t decided yet.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/jfa5xdrm1ad7hmc/AAAa9CTWq2-CaugbcHi-wtwga

Otherwise the both lights arrived in pretty good condition. The X5 had couple small nicks and dents but nothing too bad. It also had some white residue on the battery tube but I got it mostly cleaned up.

Thanks for the organisers for delivering these awesome lights. These are absolutely my prettiest and heftiest lights Smile

saypat
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chouster wrote:
@saypat

I like that! Does it only work with the tube reversed?

Hi. Not sure what you’re asking chouster. It is the short 18350 tube that was for the Eagle Eye X6 light. Not sure if it works in both directions, I only tried it one way and it worked.

chouster
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Hi saypat, normally the groove in the tube would be at the tail end, for a clip or a grip-ring…

DB Custom
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I know I talk too much, so I’ll let the pic speak for itself…

2673.75 OTF

Custom Tellurium Cu heatsink, 32mm Noctigon, 3x XP-L V6 3D, UCLp lens, 18ga Turnigy leads.

Heat sink reflowed into the head while reflowing the Noctigon to the heatsink while re-flowing the LED’s to the Noctigon. All re-flowed together simultaneously, done deal. Wink

hank
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J-Dub74 wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
hank wrote:
It’s also why it’d be useful for someone to keep a moderated list of known problems … Many of the little annoyances can be fixed at home, once identified and people contribute solutions.
Any volunteers? Anyone want to make a BLF Kronos X6/X5 troubleshooting thread / FAQ? Smile

This would be very helpful. It could be a dual purpose modding/troubleshooting thread.

From experience, we’re talking about two very different lists here.
Troubleshooting threads develop naturally here — there are a surprising number already:

http://budgetlightforum.com/search?q_as=troubleshooting

Someone who has all four kinds of lights and knows more than me, I trust, will do one.
I’d try to be helpful; I don’t have CU/SS lights nor knowledge of how we got to here.

————a thought for NEXT time, this would have to be agreed in advance—————

(I’d like to see troubleshooting by group purchasers become a firewall for the retailer — require participating first. Identify problems, identify who sees the problems, work on the problems. Once there’s enough to identify unfixable problems, those get assessed as either “live with it, it’s good enough” or “retailer should really have caught that” and handled appropriately. That would cut down on the parasitism by people who just try to get more for their money.)

———————————————-

I was thinking of the other sort of list, nonpublic
That’s QA/QC “punch lists” during development and production — a checklist, that everyone handling samples should update

What’s deadly is people seeing flaws, thinking “that’s not my responsibility” and not mentioning them to the rest of the crew.
Stuff slips by that way. That’s a shared (non-public) place the crew can (must) note: “hey, I noticed X, is it covered?”

That’s really two lists.
Some things QA finds can be fixed; others don’t get corrected — slop in a tool, or unpredictability in a component, or someone’s dropping copper parts into a bin, etc.
Those that QA done early can minimize get fixed.

What QA finds and can’t fix — there will always be some — is the beginning of the QC list (also nonpublic, probably people at the retailer)
“Look for X — there are a few — and pull them out of the stream.”

That’s an industrial-size approach to tracking details that easily get lost. A lot of people here know more about how to do that.
I mostly have experience with checking facts and writing errors of many different kinds, text lists of DNA sequences, for example.
(Get one base pair wrong and I could have been responsible for creating a monster).
Did you know you can define DNA sequences as words to spellcheck? Very handy …

Hardware adds a lot of handling problems. We’ll get better.

What QC isn’t reliably catching should become the (first) public list — a starting point for the troubleshooting group — that’s “Charlie Test” and the place to publish the known workarounds that the private list folks already know, and add to them.

Lather, rinse, repeat …

samsat
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Has anyone yet replaced the 202 (2k) resistor in the tailcap to reduce the brightness of the tailcap led?
I am planning on tackling it assuming I can harvest the right resistor from my scrap box.

I only want to do this once so looking for suggestions as to what value to use to get just the faintest luminous type glimmer almost like a GTLS vial.
Double, triple the value???

Thanks

DB Custom
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samsat, 11k works really nicely. I stacked 2 of the 22K I use building drivers, very low .15mA draw.

samsat
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Thanks DB. Always there with quick useful answers.
You must have the vision of an eagle and the hands of a surgeon!
It’s going to be a challenge to solder just one SMD resistor in place let alone stacking 2 of them!
I’ll look at some of the PCB’s I have to see what values I can harvest.

I see I have some 103 (10k) which is close enough to your 11k.
Damn I knew I shouldn’t have had that double espresso come on hands slow down!

WhitedragonBC
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saypat wrote:



Calico version.
jescereal
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Juggeli wrote:
The no 176 of 400 arrived here on Finland. Not bad delivery time for normal registered post.

I’ll have to nitpick that my X6 has a embedded fingerprint on the copper heatsink Sad I guess that somebody was quite impatient and touched the part while the lacquer wasn’t completely dry. I’ll have to try my luck stripping the finish and shining it up, or just strip the finish and let it get some patina. Haven’t decided yet.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/jfa5xdrm1ad7hmc/AAAa9CTWq2-CaugbcHi-wtwga

Otherwise the both lights arrived in pretty good condition. The X5 had couple small nicks and dents but nothing too bad. It also had some white residue on the battery tube but I got it mostly cleaned up.

Thanks for the organisers for delivering these awesome lights. These are absolutely my prettiest and heftiest lights Smile

My X6 had a fingerprint mark also. It rubbed right off with minimal effort and some saliva. Wink

RobertB
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duvallite
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Tried to work on my too-narrow X5 clip to see if I could increase the depth to make it more usable, and only succeeded in breaking it right at the bend Sad

At least I got it off the light without leaving any marks. Probably wasn’t going to use it much if at all anyway, but you never know. So, if anyone finds a clip that fits, be sure to let all of us know.

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Sharpie wrote:
Later I will try to establish which is the highest setting where it can be safely be used continuously.

You know, it has a thermometer built in to help with that. Smile

There wasn’t anywhere near enough room for a proper PID algorithm, but it still does okay managing the heat after the heat has had time to reach the MCU. You could also improve this by cramming in some thermal transfer foam between the MCU and the pill, to help it sense heat faster.

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I tried, and failed, to open up my Al X5 clip. Not enough heat? Went too fast? I don’t know. It snapped and that’s all she wrote. Sad

If they can make more of the good ones I’d be willing to buy a replacement or three.

jmoots
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Just got mine today. This is my first real flashlight, so for those of you who’ve been jaded by your collection, you might not remember this feeling, but: OMG.

It took a couple minutes to get the hang of moving through all the modes, but it’s pretty easy now. Very nicely done, all around.

Thanks,

-joel

ToyKeeper
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J-Dub74 wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
hank wrote:
It’s also why it’d be useful for someone to keep a moderated list of known problems … Many of the little annoyances can be fixed at home, once identified and people contribute solutions.
Any volunteers? Anyone want to make a BLF Kronos X6/X5 troubleshooting thread / FAQ? Smile

This would be very helpful. It could be a dual purpose modding/troubleshooting thread.


Dudunphy did an amazing job with the A6 thread, helping countless people with the issues they encountered. I really wasn’t expecting anyone to take on so much work for the sake of others. But this is BLF, after all, and people are pretty awesome here. Smile
ToyKeeper
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hank wrote:
I’d like to see troubleshooting by group purchasers become a firewall for the retailer — require participating first.

{several QA/QC suggestions}


There’s a small issue with requiring people to post on BLF before they can get help from the retailer. It requires people to have an account. It adds another layer of inconvenience when it’s already too difficult to get good support.

As for the QA ideas, it sounds great. But first there needs to be actual formal QA, and before that there needs to be direct communication with no translators in the middle. That would likely solve most issues. Smile

hank
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“You could also improve this by cramming in some thermal transfer foam between the MCU and the pill, to help it sense heat faster.” — TK

B42
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will34 wrote:
Normally a yellow spot in the center of the beam means that the LED is too far up the reflector and needs to be lowered, or in this case the reflector has to be raised a tiny bit, less than 1mm. It happened to me in several mods and using a XP sized clear plastic insulator solves the problem. Richard has them.

Have you had success with this on an MTG too? I have a light where the center is very yellow, and my two I just received also have this problem, yellow center surrounded by blue.

pilotdog68
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I think that’s pretty standard for MTG2 in a smooth reflector

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

tarver
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my tracking number said my lights were delivered feb 3rd, and i thought they had been stolen, but they came today, the 5th, and i have ss# 225.
they are very nice and i am NOT going to test them, or ever open them or do anything but let them sit there in their box #225 .
i will be open to offers for the set, by PM and i will be busy a lot and will not be checking messages regularly. i ordered NW.

B42
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ToyKeeper wrote:
myhken wrote:
on the X6, I get a yellow spot in the center of the beam.

What can I do, and is this a possible requesting a new light, or something. I can nothing about fixing lights, but maybe there is only a part I can change my self, without any soldering or such thing, since I have no equipment of that sort.

The XP-L HI has much more even tint distribution than a domed emitter, but it’s not 100% perfectly distributed. It still leaks more yellow out to the sides than it does to the front. So, it’s pretty much guaranteed that the hotspot will be a bit more yellow than the rest of the beam. Not as much as with older emitters, usually, but the effect is still somewhat visible.

To reduce it, you will probably need to fine-tune the focus yourself — both centering and depth. IIRC, this process was already discussed within the last 50 posts or so, if you’d like more information.

I’ve had distinct spots in the beam even from premium brands like Zebralight. One nice thing about these BLF lights is that we can open it up and fix it.

OK, interesting, I havent had this happen except on an MTG light.

I am a bit disappointed in the tint on the two sets I just received just since I wanted WW and got a blue-y ringed beam due to a focus issue, I’ve got to figure how to resolve looks like. However I do like this tint more than any other CW I’ve had, even blue tinged its generally a nice white, not sure I’d call it NW, is it possible the bin is off?

Tint aside, absolutely beautiful lights, beautifully functioning driver, beautiful amount of light too! My wife has already complained about the tailcap glow though, how am I going to keep this next to my bed? :/

Just get those WW tint selections next time and a warmer NW purdy please Smile

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I have a yellow hotspot with blue spill on pretty much every reflector-based light I’ve ever used. Side effect of the “Cree rainbow”. Usually the entire hotspot is yellow though, instead of just part of it. The XP-L HI certainly improves overall beam consistency, but it seems to make the color contrast a bit more noticeable sometimes.

emarkd
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B42 wrote:
My wife has already complained about the tailcap glow though, how am I going to keep this next to my bed? :/

Swap the resistor for something larger. Dale posted a few days ago that he stacked a couple in his for 11K total resistance and had good results. Just this afternoon I pulled the resistor out of mine and swapped in a 12K. Its great, in my opinion. Very dim but still easily seen.

Tom E
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I put in a 10K and it's less bright, but maybe not low enough for my nightstand. Might try a 15K-18K. I did this on a NW Ss/Cu X6, and also tweaked it up:

  • TK's latest (Jan 16) firmware upgrade
  • centered the LED
  • replaced the 24 AWG wires with shortest possible 22 AWG
  • 22 AWG wire bypass in driver spring
  • pulled out the inside spring in the tail and put in a 22 AWG bypass
  • all retainer ring/PCB contacts coated with NO-OX-ID,
  • all threaded body connections w/o-rings (3) treated w/Nyogel

Results are impressive:

  • the time to hold the button for reverse is much shorter, much improved
  • beam pattern looks improved, bout perfect to me (I love this 3B tint btw)
  • tail amps: 5.74A on a clamp meter
  • lumens: 1540 @start, 1472 @30 secs -- this is for the 3B NW tint Smile

 

tarver
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how much is a boxed set worth ss# 225

emarkd
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tarver wrote:
how much is a boxed set worth ss# 225

Depends on what someone is willing to pay for it. About 400 people paid 96 bucks so I think its probably worth that.

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