BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.

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Fredylee
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Awesome +1000000…..

pilotdog68
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I think the double spring will remove the risk of melting/collapsing the spring under fet power (as has happened in the past) and raise output at the same time, but for best performance you might still want a traditional spring bypass.

It’s definitely a good upgrade in my eyes, especially for people who don’t do bypasses. Extra performance and reliability right out of the box.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

ToyKeeper
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The original A6 spring was pretty good. The later A6 units switched to a terrible spring which cost about 130 lumens and doesn’t hold up well at all under load.

The T01 double spring should be even better than the original A6 spring. I haven’t gotten a chance to test it personally though.

beam0
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kronological wrote:
Hello folks. Here are a few updates…·Additional switch option for those that want to swap out lighted switch.
Ronin42 wrote:
It looks like Kronos just confirmed my question that the switch assemblies are interchangeable with stock switch assemblies.

Does this mean each light will come with 2 switches? One lighted switch (installed) plus an additional unlighted switch (internal part only).

 

Lilien
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ToyKeeper][quote=emarkd wrote:
The side effect of enabling the tailcap LEDs is … a “long” press will take a bit longer than usual, depending on the battery voltage. So, instead of 1.5s it might be 2.0s or 2.5s or possibly even as long as 4.0s. The more current flowing through while “off”, the longer it takes the off-time capacitor to drain.

I’m convinced you are very thoroughly, but please let me ask: Is there a noteworthy influence of the charge status (cell voltage) or temperature on the timing?
DB Custom
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The lighted tail cap utilizes two small leds and a resistor, one on each side of the small switch. This is the area that I normally use to drill a hole through the pcb for a through-board wire bypass that goes from the switch itself to the top of the spring in one piece of silicone coated copper wire.

So, Where does the bypass go now? Is one of the 2 LED’s more important than the other? Can one be sacrified to make room for the current flowing wire? Will the tail cap then only show light from one side? Do green grasshoppers have green a**holes?

Yes, I know, I’m full of it.

ToyKeeper
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Lilien wrote:
I’m convinced you are very thoroughly, but please let me ask: Is there a noteworthy influence of the charge status (cell voltage) or temperature on the timing?

Yes, a full cell has a longer “long press” than an empty cell, but only when the tailcap is lit. And the overall temperature is known to affect the timing too, but I still need to measure it for these lights. I’ve been harping on Manker to use X7R-class capacitors to reduce this effect. Results are pending…

However, getting too hot shouldn’t be much of an issue regardless. These have thermal regulation and much bigger heat sinks, so they simply don’t get as hot as the A6.

pilotdog68
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DB Custom wrote:
The lighted tail cap utilizes two small leds and a resistor, one on each side of the small switch. This is the area that I normally use to drill a hole through the pcb for a through-board wire bypass that goes from the switch itself to the top of the spring in one piece of silicone coated copper wire.

So, Where does the bypass go now? Is one of the 2 LED’s more important than the other? Can one be sacrified to make room for the current flowing wire? Will the tail cap then only show light from one side? Do green grasshoppers have green a**holes?

Yes, I know, I’m full of it.


I personally don’t think you gain much (if anything) by doing the pcb-bypass vs a spring-only bypass on this pcb because there aren’t any “traces” per-se in the power path, just big copper pours.

If you did want to drill, drill a resistor pad. They’re redundant. There are Eagle screenshots in my thread that show exactly where the traces are too.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

MauiSon
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The Al lights don’t need a clear coat and it’s the economy model. If the price/cost of the SS/Cu goes up $5, the Al should go up $4, or something like that. Am I wrong here?

[Ouch, this backbencher is gettin’ no love.]

hank
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Quote:
I’ve been harping on Manker to use X7R-class capacitors to reduce this effect. Results are pending…

Thank you.

kronological
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beam0 wrote:
kronological wrote:
Hello folks. Here are a few updates…·Additional switch option for those that want to swap out lighted switch.
Ronin42 wrote:
It looks like Kronos just confirmed my question that the switch assemblies are interchangeable with stock switch assemblies.

Does this mean each light will come with 2 switches? One lighted switch (installed) plus an additional unlighted switch (internal part only).


It will probably be offered as an option to keep costs down.

No one, after lighting a lamp, puts it away in a cellar nor under a basket, but on the lampstand, so that those who enter may see the light.

My Reviews: Ma

Joat
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You got me, put me down for a SS Cu set, NW.

monanza
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Oh shucks only 400? So I can’t ask for serial 666? These things are going to be hot enough for it! Evil

EDIT, in that case put me down for another SS/Cu CW at #333. And one more Al WW at #222.

RotorHead64
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Okay put me on the list for another set of SS/Cu NW

wedlpine
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I would like to give up my spot on the Al list.

59. Wedlpine Al NW

In exchange for #188 on the Al list.

Velectron
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Is the protective coating to prevent the copper from tarnishing? From my experience, copper tarnishes easily after coming into contact with salt from sweat. I hope the coating is able to last. Any idea what kind of coating will be used?

mhanlen
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ToyKeeper wrote:
mhanlen wrote:
I like the idea but it would literally have to be lower than .01 lumens for me to like it. I’m talking at or below firefly 1 on an armytek tiara or Zebralight.

The output seems to be near the bottom of Zebralight’s firefly modes… I’d guess around 0.03 lumens on a full cell (and lower for a low cell) but it’s difficult to measure anything that low. Also, the runtime seems to be about on par with Zebralight’s lowest firefly modes.

So, while it’s a little brighter than you described, it’s not really far off.

Here’s how it looks compared to some other glowy lights, including a L3 L10 at 0.08 lm and a ZL SC52 at 0.10 lm. Note that these pictures used two resistors in the tailcaps, so the actual product should be about half as bright.

Thanks a lot for the pictures and description. This might work… Especially if I could switch out one of the resistors. The meteor switch is way too bright, for my tastes and while I think it’s a great idea, it’s too distracting to keep in a dark room. Ideally it’s just enough glow to locate it. If you can light your way by it, it’s too bright (for me). The last two pages have answered pretty much all my questions. I’ll have to see in person, how I like it and if it needs any modding. I did not intend to slight all the hard work put into the light or the switch. I can’t wait for the light!

pilotdog68
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Done correctly, everyone I know that has tried the lighted tailcap has loved it. The “annoying” factor is determined both by brightness and color. Green is very “bright” looking at almost any resistor setting, and I would never have one in my bedroom. The one I keep by my bed is red. Once you turn on the light fixture in the room you would never know the tailcap was lit, it’s that dim. Even after my eyes are dark adjusted, it doesn’t show up in my peripheral vision, I have to sweep it with my eyes to see it. Very unobtrusive, but easy to find even if I knock it off the nightstand.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

mhanlen
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pilotdog68 wrote:
Done correctly, everyone I know that has tried the lighted tailcap has loved it. The “annoying” factor is determined both by brightness and color. Green is very “bright” looking at almost any resistor setting, and I would never have one in my bedroom. The one I keep by my bed is red. Once you turn on the light fixture in the room you would never know the tailcap was lit, it’s that dim. Even after my eyes are dark adjusted, it doesn’t show up in my peripheral vision, I have to sweep it with my eyes to see it. Very unobtrusive, but easy to find even if I knock it off the nightstand.

Sounds about right then. Thanks!

Stittville Ed
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DB Custom wrote:
Do green grasshoppers have green a**holes?

I figured someone would have a answer for that…….

I like the lighted tail caps!!!!

This Group Buy has only been in progress since July 10th as a thread (not counting all the work before it went public)
So as Group Buys go this has been very fast because of all the work from a number of very talented people.

Sooooooooooo not that I have any say on when this light will go into production but it would seen like it would be nice to have them in peoples hands before Christmas if they wanted to gift them to people (this year)

All the changes others would like to be made could be incorperated into the NEXT BLF light, if anyone is willing to go thru all the pain again………..

DB Custom
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I believe we’re close to making this happen, close enough to get em delivered before Christmas? Well, possibly. But the main goal here has been to ensure that they’re right, so we’re not pushing for anything to be done quickly over correctly. That said, I guess we’ll get em when we get em. (it’s nip and tuck though, to be honest)

And you can bet that Kronological is glutton enough for pain and misery that he’ll be doing another group buy. Smile

hank
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Quote:
The later A6 units switched to a terrible spring

… bad, naughty, BAD later A6 units.
I trust they were properly disciplined
for switching their parts without permission.
Creativity on the part of the hardware is to be deprecated.

DB Custom
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Agreed Hank, I applied proper punishment to mine til they were red and blue (and purple and green and shrunken in shame) Then I brought in beryllium replacements that promised to behave.

unknown00101
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hank wrote:
Quote:
The later A6 units switched to a terrible spring

bad, naughty, BAD evil later A6 units.
I trust they were properly disciplined
for switching their parts without permission.
Creativity on the part of the hardware is to be deprecated.


A good spanking? Big Smile
cajampa
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pilotdog68 wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
The lighted tail cap utilizes two small leds and a resistor, one on each side of the small switch. This is the area that I normally use to drill a hole through the pcb for a through-board wire bypass that goes from the switch itself to the top of the spring in one piece of silicone coated copper wire.

So, Where does the bypass go now? Is one of the 2 LED’s more important than the other? Can one be sacrified to make room for the current flowing wire? Will the tail cap then only show light from one side? Do green grasshoppers have green a**holes?

Yes, I know, I’m full of it.


I personally don’t think you gain much (if anything) by doing the pcb-bypass vs a spring-only bypass on this pcb because there aren’t any “traces” per-se in the power path, just big copper pours.

If you did want to drill, drill a resistor pad. They’re redundant. There are Eagle screenshots in my thread that show exactly where the traces are too.

I am very curious how that works, is the big copper pours somehow connected between the sides ot the board without the vias or does all the current flow through the vias.

And if it does flow through the vias could you please add as many vias as would fit to lower resistance as low as possible for max amp?

DB Custom
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Still comes down to the springs though, they have to be able to carry high amperage or the solid nature of the pcb is of no consequence. And the driver up top doesn’t have the benefit of the heavy pours. The wire bypass will help the spring carry the load, the heavy pour on the switch pcb will probably make it un-necessary to drill through it (I only saw a mild improvement, the sample Cu X5 with spring bypasses the normal way jumped a mere 14 lumens when drilling the tail pcb. 1490-1504 lumens) so if they do indeed get a dual spring that can carry the amperage it won’t be necessary to do anything to these lights, they’ll be fully capable right out of the box. A TRUE factory hot rod!

The SS/Cu pill X6 is just such an incredibly solid feeling light, the knurling is robust and it really does give you the feel and impression of a light that’s going to last through whatever comes it’s way. I’ sure that it’d be beat up and dented floating around in a tool box, especially the copper pill, but I don’t see that stopping it from working like new for years to come. Replacing the glass lens with an acrylic one would solve the breakability weakness for those that are especially rough with their tools. I have several lights that I want to put the UCLp lens in, with a couple on the way that I need measurements for, so I’ll be ordering from Chris pretty soon and seeing what kind of differences we can look for in swapping to the higher quality AR of the UCLp.

pilotdog68
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cajampa wrote:
pilotdog68 wrote:

I personally don’t think you gain much (if anything) by doing the pcb-bypass vs a spring-only bypass on this pcb because there aren’t any “traces” per-se in the power path, just big copper pours.

If you did want to drill, drill a resistor pad. They’re redundant. There are Eagle screenshots in my thread that show exactly where the traces are too.

I am very curious how that works, is the big copper pours somehow connected between the sides ot the board without the vias or does all the current flow through the vias.

And if it does flow through the vias could you please add as many vias as would fit to lower resistance as low as possible for max amp?


All current flows through vias, but you’d be surprised how much current a via can carry, especially over such a tiny distance. I’m going to re-tool a few of the boards soon and might add 1 or 2 more vias, but again that doesn’t apply to this groupbuy.

For true hot rods, you might see some gains from a spring(s) bypass, but I just don’t think you need to bypass the pcb.

For what it’s worth, wight was always good at keeping the driver pours as big as possible as well.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

B42
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Soooo, we are getting double springs too?? I think I might have to go + 2SS/Cu now Smile

Oh yeah, what about those light pink boots? Are we getting clear or pink or ? TK is so helpful…except for this category Wink I just think they look great with the blue LED underneath and the copper color, I’d want to buy some now in advance even, if we arent getting pink.

KeepingItLight
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At present, I am down for one Al set in NW (#91).

Please add one SS/Cu set in NW.

The new total should be one of each.

Thanks!

cajampa
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pilotdog68 wrote:
cajampa wrote:
pilotdog68 wrote:

I personally don’t think you gain much (if anything) by doing the pcb-bypass vs a spring-only bypass on this pcb because there aren’t any “traces” per-se in the power path, just big copper pours.

If you did want to drill, drill a resistor pad. They’re redundant. There are Eagle screenshots in my thread that show exactly where the traces are too.

I am very curious how that works, is the big copper pours somehow connected between the sides ot the board without the vias or does all the current flow through the vias.

And if it does flow through the vias could you please add as many vias as would fit to lower resistance as low as possible for max amp?


All current flows through vias, but you’d be surprised how much current a via can carry, especially over such a tiny distance. I’m going to re-tool a few of the boards soon and might add 1 or 2 more vias, but again that doesn’t apply to this groupbuy.

For true hot rods, you might see some gains from a spring(s) bypass, but I just don’t think you need to bypass the pcb.

For what it’s worth, wight was always good at keeping the driver pours as big as possible as well.

Thanks very interesting, and sorry everybody if i confuse anyone about talking about features that does not apply to this GB 0:)

I get that a lot of current can pass through a via, but what i am wondering is how much lower resistance for example a doubling of vias would give on a hypothetical bord with big copper pours.
I just wonder how much if any, extra performance we could get by taking that aspect to its limit on switch boards and drivers.
Because every little less voltage drop helps to up output on these high Vf cree leds Smile

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