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bdiddle
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S2+ has an S3 style short reflector. At least I think it is the same as an S3. It is very short. Deeper pill though. The tailcap does not allow you to use one of those cheap clips either.

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ToyKeeper
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bdiddle wrote:
S2+ has an S3 style short reflector. At least I think it is the same as an S3. It is very short. Deeper pill though. The tailcap does not allow you to use one of those cheap clips either.

FWIW, the Solarforce L2 clip works pretty well on the entire Convoy S line, and is much sturdier than the cheap screw-on clip. However, it may require adding a paperclip to the tailcap on some models to ensure the switch connects to the non-anodized part of the main body. It may also be slightly larger in outer diameter, but not by much — 25mm instead of 24mm.

Here’s one on a S3:

… and this is the paperclip tailcap mod:

DB Custom
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I would use a copper wire instead of a paperclip, but that's just me. Smile

Thanks for that bit of info. Wink

wight
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ToyKeeper wrote:
FWIW, the Solarforce L2 clip works pretty well on the entire Convoy S line, and is much sturdier than the cheap screw-on clip. However, it may require adding a paperclip to the tailcap on some models to ensure the switch connects to the non-anodized part of the main body. It may also be slightly larger in outer diameter, but not by much — 25mm instead of 24mm.

Here’s one on a S3:
http://toykeeper.net/tmp/torches/convoy-s3-l2-clip.1.jpg
… and this is the paperclip tailcap mod:
http://toykeeper.net/tmp/torches/convoy-s3-l2-clip.3.jpg

Hmm. Thanks for posting that. I’ve tried the SF clip on a Roche F12 after another BLF member mentioned that it would work, but quickly decided that I’d have to strip the threads for contact. I didn’t like that idea, so I took the clip off. I hadn’t considered adding a ring like that. Now that you’ve shown that way, I’m considering adding a ring under the brass retaining ring to keep things clean.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Yourrid
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Any updates on a restock of protected Panasonic 18650’s?

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wight wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
FWIW, the Solarforce L2 clip works pretty well on the entire Convoy S line, and is much sturdier than the cheap screw-on clip. However, it may require adding a paperclip to the tailcap on some models to ensure the switch connects to the non-anodized part of the main body. It may also be slightly larger in outer diameter, but not by much — 25mm instead of 24mm.

Here’s one on a S3:
http://toykeeper.net/tmp/torches/convoy-s3-l2-clip.1.jpg
… and this is the paperclip tailcap mod:
http://toykeeper.net/tmp/torches/convoy-s3-l2-clip.3.jpg

Hmm. Thanks for posting that. I’ve tried the SF clip on a Roche F12 after another BLF member mentioned that it would work, but quickly decided that I’d have to strip the threads for contact. I didn’t like that idea, so I took the clip off. I hadn’t considered adding a ring like that. Now that you’ve shown that way, I’m considering adding a ring under the brass retaining ring to keep things clean.

I’ll see your paper clip and raise you a spacer.

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DB Custom
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RMM
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Yourrid wrote:
Any updates on a restock of protected Panasonic 18650's?

They are in the US, but they won't be able to ship until next week.  

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What spacer do you use for the s3 tripple ?

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Richard had those spacers made in aluminum and copper, carries them in his mtnelectronics.com store.

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DBCstm wrote:
Richard had those spacers made in aluminum and copper, carries them in his mtnelectronics.com store.
As far as I am aware the spacers that he offers are only for s2 so s6 not s3 can someone confirm this? And if this is true what spacer does he use for the s3?
Mike C
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Caleb-v wrote:
As far as I am aware the spacers that he offers are only for s2 so s6 not s3 can someone confirm this? And if this is true what spacer does he use for the s3?

From what I have read you don’t need a spacer with the S3. Source: post#11 here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/35687
RMM
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Caleb-v wrote:
What spacer do you use for the s3 tripple ?

I don't use a spacer.  I fill the pill face with solder, then reflow two 3XP MCPCBs together.  

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RMM
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Mike C wrote:
Caleb-v wrote:
As far as I am aware the spacers that he offers are only for s2 so s6 not s3 can someone confirm this? And if this is true what spacer does he use for the s3?
From what I have read you don't need a spacer with the S3. Source: post#11 here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/35687[/quote]

I don't know about the new version with the integrated shelf, but you most definitely do need a small spacer on the old S3 or else you won't get hardly any thread engagement.  

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Mike C
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RMM wrote:

Mike C wrote:
Caleb-v wrote:
As far as I am aware the spacers that he offers are only for s2 so s6 not s3 can someone confirm this? And if this is true what spacer does he use for the s3?
From what I have read you don’t need a spacer with the S3. Source: post#11 here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/35687

I don’t know about the new version with the integrated shelf, but you most definitely do need a small spacer on the old S3 or else you won’t get hardly any thread engagement.  


Aha, ok. How thick does it have to be?
Edit: Silly question… the answer is two posts above!
B42
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Still lurking here…waiting…drooling over the thought of EE X6 triple conversion component DIY package to make that 4k lumen monster!! When do you think you guys may have it available? Wink

saypat
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B42 wrote:
Still lurking here…waiting…drooling over the thought of EE X6 triple conversion component DIY package to make that 4k lumen monster!! When do you think you guys may have it available? Wink

please offer this as a ‘completed light’ as well. Just post a warning “buyer beware.”

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To me that will take it from a practical use light to a monster output “See my toy” light which will get very hot FAST. As I have CW, NW coming and a WW reserved I may do it to one of the three, whichever I like least, but it will be more of a demo of what can be done. At those kind of amps how well will the tail switch hold up and the light will need 20+ Amp rated unprotected batteries.

Rich Wood
Reno, NV

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Does the S2+ 18350 need a spacer for a triple?

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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I now have more flashlights than Christmas Tree ornaments.
Which suggests an interesting decorating possibility ….

Halo...
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Do it. And post pictures.

Legolas Jr.
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Halo… wrote:
Do it. And post pictures.

Yes!!! A flashaholic’s Christmas…

“Strive to be a warrior and a scholar. Be forged in fire and tempered by knowledge. If not, you will either lack the courage to fight for your ideals or lack ideals worth fighting for.”

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Cereal_killer wrote:
Does the S2+ 18350 need a spacer for a triple?

It depends.

If you want the mod to be completely reversible then yes a spacer is needed. If you’re willing to get dirty with a handfile then you can easily mod the light to not need a spacer.

I received my first S2+ 18350 yesterday (first was not from RMM, but I have a second inbound from RMM). I immediately modded it into a triple without using a spacer.

The solid brass pill is sized for a 16mm star. It has a lip around the edges to keep the star in position. Before putting a 20mm star on top, you’ll need to flatten that lip so there’s more surface area touching the triple star.

There are two ways to do this:

  • Option 1: add disks of copper or other material, or add a spacer that has an indent at the bottom edge to go into this lip. This makes the light heavier and potentially longer, but has the advantage that it is reversible.
  • Option 2: File off the lip to make the top of the pill flat. I like making lights as small as possible and had no interest in converting this light back to a single-XML2, so I chose this option. 45 minutes of hand filing and the top was flat.

The next problem is the lack of a central hole in the top of the pill for the leadwires. Easily fixed with a drill.

Insert the driver (BLF17DD), solder up the leadwires and screw everything into the light. BUT… the threads don’t go all the way to the head so the TIR isn’t at the front of the light. The pill threads stop it from screwing up into the top position.

There are a couple ways to fix this:

  • Option 1: Add a spacer. Either a manufactured one from RMM (if he has one for S2+) or a homemade one. I usually make spacers out of copper disks hand-cut to fit, then soldered into a slug with solder paste. A spacer adds more mass for heatsinking and makes the light heavier. It can give a better thermal path than Option 2 and is also reversible.
  • Option 2: File off the top section of pill threads. If the top 3/4 of a cm or so of pill threads are filed off, the pill threads will no longer stop the pill from being screwed home. This allows the pill to screw all the way into position with the TIR firmly pressed against the edges of the bezel without the need for any spacer. It means less thermal mass for heatsinking, and potentially worse thermal path to the body tube due to less surface contact between the pill and the body. However, it also makes for a much smaller and lighter light. The pill itself is fairly long, so even if you file off 2/3 of the pill threads there are still plenty of remaining threads to make contact with the body. I chose this option. 20 minutes with a handfile and it was ready.

A note on the driver: The BLF17DD shorted when I tried using the stock driver retainer ring, probably because the bottom of the driver is not flat. This was easily fixed by ditching the retaining ring and just soldering the driver to the brass pill.

Shortening the light: If you chose both “option 2“s listed above, you gain quite a bit of extra space in the battery compartment. You can bridge this gap with long driver and tailcap springs. Or, if you want a shorter light you can simply file off part of the bottom of the head. I’ll probably do this next. I figure I can make the light maybe 7 or 8mm shorter with a bit of filing and still have plenty of room for the battery. This would shorten the light from 84mm to maybe 76 or 77 mm. Note however that this may affect waterproofing as this would remove the lip for the o-ring at the bottom of the head.

texas shooter
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B42 wrote:
Still lurking here…waiting…drooling over the thought of EE X6 triple conversion component DIY package to make that 4k lumen monster!! When do you think you guys may have it available? Wink

Also on my list of things I don’t need but want.

RMM
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Cereal_killer wrote:
Does the S2+ 18350 need a spacer for a triple?

Yes.  I added about 5.5mm worth on mine, in addition to filling in the 16mm pill space then sanding it flat.  

You could file off the threads so that it can thread deeper, but I wanted the extra thermal mass and thread contact.  Either way you need to flatten the face for the 20mm MCPCB.

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TheGloriousTachikoma
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Richard, what’s the chance of getting 9v MT-G2s? I understand its an extremely niche item but if it helps I’ll pay $30 for one.

DB Custom
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Richard has X6 hosts on the way, we’ve found an excellent source for the triple optics that’s stateside, and my machinist has my prototype in hand today. With the holiday this weekend, I’m expecting to have some idea as to availability on the sinks for Richard next week sometime.

It’s easy to make one or two of something and make them to fit, but how do we know just how exacting a standard has been held on machining the inside of the X6’s from the factory? Will a snug push fit made for my original light fit the same way in 100 others? Or will it be to big to go in at all? Or loose? Trying to get some measurements inside the head of the X6’s available to see how consistent this runs. With a sampling of 6 or 8 lights available to me, we’ve got an idea…but who knows? I’d like to make them slightly on the large side. With the central hole running through it, should be pretty simple to run a machine screw through the middle and mount it up in a hand drill to spin it and sand it down slighty to fit an individual light snugly. Any thoughts?

TheGloriousTachikoma
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DBCstm wrote:
It’s easy to make one or two of something and make them to fit, but how do we know just how exacting a standard has been held on machining the inside of the X6’s from the factory? Will a snug push fit made for my original light fit the same way in 100 others? Or will it be to big to go in at all? Or loose? Trying to get some measurements inside the head of the X6’s available to see how consistent this runs. With a sampling of 6 or 8 lights available to me, we’ve got an idea…but who knows? I’d like to make them slightly on the large side. With the central hole running through it, should be pretty simple to run a machine screw through the middle and mount it up in a hand drill to spin it and sand it down slighty to fit an individual light snugly. Any thoughts?

I thought this would just be something that rested on the surface of the pill, where the mcpcb would normally go, and then the bezel would screw on to provide vertical compression.

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The plan is, for the Triple Eagle Eye X6, to fill the head as much as possible while raising the 32mm Noctigon to the proper height for the optics to fit. The base of the heat sink will be machined to fit into the shelf where the star usually goes, with the larger diameter above that being filled side to side so the head of the light will be in full contact with the heat sink for optimum thermal path. This is only .30” (7.6mm) tall we’re talking about, so it’s not a real deep sink…needs to be as wide as possible to do the most good.

This way, the nice fins and thick aluminum already provided by Eagle Eye will be put to maximum use. With Triple XP-L’s that’s essential!

I built one by using stacked 20mm copper mcpcb’s with the dielectric layer sanded off. This leaves about 5mm+ of air space around the spacer column doing nothing. So a push fit aluminum spacer/heat sink will, ideally, be a simple thing to slip into the head and then put the large Noctigon on top of it. Thermal paste between all contacts of course. The existing shelf where the star now sits will have to have a hole bored through it for the wires. By having a central hole, we’re assured the wires won’t get cut when tightening down the bezel.

RMM
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TheGloriousTachikoma wrote:
Richard, what's the chance of getting 9v MT-G2s? I understand its an extremely niche item but if it helps I'll pay $30 for one.

I've looked and it's hard to find one anywhere.  It seems like they were available 9-12 months ago, but now Cutter, Digikey, Mouser, and a quick Google search hasn't turned up anything. 

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