MTN Electronics: LEDs - Batteries - Lights - Chargers - Hosts - Drivers - Components - 1-Stop-US Source

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RMM
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ToyKeeper wrote:
jmpaul320 wrote:
Richard - any chance of getting a convoy s3 with a triple 219b? :)
We discussed this a few hundred posts ago... and while RMM was willing to make one, we decided that it might not be worthwhile since it'll only get maybe 750 lumens. You'd probably be better off doing a triple XP-G2 with three wildly different tints, which can provide both good color rendering and OMG lumens.

I have offered it in the past and I will offer it again, now that I have more LEDs.  The 219B doesn't take as much of a lumens hit as the older Nichias did.  

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ToyKeeper
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ToyKeeper wrote:
jmpaul320 wrote:
Richard – any chance of getting a convoy s3 with a triple 219b? Smile

triple XP-G2 with three wildly different tints

A little while back, I did some figuring on what would probably work for this sort of thing:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/31190#comment-582628

If it helps, this is what I was thinking of doing. But I was also considering using a 4* tint instead of 5*, to make the result slightly cooler in color temperature.

ToyKeeper wrote:
So, my original idea a while back was to ask RMM to do a S3-triple with three different tints, to get a wide-spectrum light the size of a cigar. And it’s almost time for him to open up his modding service again.

Looking through his current stock, here’s what looks like the best option:

XP-G2 R5 1A, ~6700K, 518+ lm at 1.5A
XP-G2 R4 5A1, ~4100K, 485+ lm at 1.5A
XP-G2 Q2 7C4 90+CRI, ~2900K, 288+ lm at 1.5A

This should provide the widest and most evenly-spread tint selection from what is available right now, and should result in a blended overall tint of just under 4900K.

That tint estimate was calculated by averaging the three tints multiplied by their relative output values/bins. ((6700 * 100%) + (4100 * 93%) + (2900 * 55%)) / 248% == 4882 Kelvin

I’m not sure which Carclo lens would work best. The 10507 is described as “narrow spot beam that is very smooth all the way through with no discernable hotspot”, 10508 is “very floody”, and 10509 is “extremely floody”. I assume one of the three would be best, but it’s hard to say which.

As for power level, I’m guessing 4.4A total would be ideal, since that drives each emitter at nearly 1.5A, so it should make the tints as close as possible to the manufacturer’s specs. Also, it’s a nice balance between lumens and heat, and I think it would do about 1100lm OTF on turbo if the optics lose 12% of the output. (518lm + 485lm + 288lm) * 4.4A/(3*1.5A) * 0.88 == 1110 lm

BTW, if you do a wide-spectrum light, it’s probably a good idea to make it floody. This minimizes the rainbow shadows and maximizes the color vividness of the objects you light up.

jmpaul320
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Thanks for the info toy keeper Smile

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

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Also, I’m hoping to build a spectrometer soon, which should provide some interesting details about the difference between a Nichia 219 and a tint-mixed multi-emitter Cree light. Both look visually very nice, but I’m guessing the Nichia has a pretty smooth spectral curve while the multi-tint light probably has several spikes.

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Richard, is the triple xp-g2 spacer you sell the same one you use in your builds? How solid is it (how much is hollowed out in the center, if any)?
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/opencart/index.php?route=product/product&p...
I apologize if this has been brought up before. Smile

“Strive to be a warrior and a scholar. Be forged in fire and tempered by knowledge. If not, you will either lack the courage to fight for your ideals or lack ideals worth fighting for.”

RMM
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Legolas Jr. wrote:
Richard, is the triple xp-g2 spacer you sell the same one you use in your builds? How solid is it (how much is hollowed out in the center, if any)? http://www.mtnelectronics.com/opencart/index.php?route=product/product&p... I apologize if this has been brought up before. :)

The S3 EDC triple doesn't use this spacer, just the S2 and S6 (normal length) if the customer requests it. On the S3 I fill the pill with solder, sand it flat, then reflow two copper MCPCBs together for the spacer.I can't remember the exact diameter used, but it is machined from solid bar stock and the hole in the middle is enough to fit two 22 AWG silicone wires through but not much more.  

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myst999
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Richard, Your new tax system keeps adding tax to my order (I’m not in Washington or Utah).

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2 small flat rate boxes with 18650’s inside. Also got a backup proprietary Li-ion for my camera before we go on vacation. So there were 4 Samsung 25R and 8 Panasonic NCR18650B plus the camera battery. Also 3 other packages. A small 14500 sized Maxtoch in SS and an extension for my new TK61, along with some Kester soldering paste.

Why is all this important? 13 Li-ions in my mailbox, raining, and the mailman stuffed so much in there the door would’t close! The packages were wet and crushed and looking like easy pickins to everybody that drove down our road! Crazy mail carrier!

No harm though, so I guess no foul. Those little plastic boxes come in really handy in these situations…

Thanks Richard! Smile

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Clearly you're going to need a bigger mailbox so you can fit more flashlight gear in there in the future.  Do I see a mailbox mod thread in the near future?

The low mode should be lower.

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I got the $40 kit: http://spectralworkbench.org/
and have posted some spectra from various LEDs, e.g. http://spectralworkbench.org/analyze/spectrum/28585

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Back in stock:

  • 18 AWG Premium Silicone Wire
  • 14x6mm Black Silicone Boot
  • 20MM & 42MM AR Lens
  • 20MM Forward Clicky w/ PCB and Spring
  • Cree Multi-Color XM-L
  • XM-L2 3C on 16mm Noctigon
  • XM-L2 4C on 14mm Aluminum
  • XM-L2 U2 1D Bare LED
  • XP-G2 R4 5A2 Bare LED
  • Gold Plated Spring B
  • LC-2C Driver
  • 3XP MCPCB
  • P60 Dropins - OP and SMO Reflectors

New:

  • Cree MT-G2 M0 4000K on 20mm Noctigon

Lower prices:

  • 18 AWG Premium Silicone Wire ($0.20 less)
  • Triple Nichia 219B on Noctigon ($2.00 less)
  • Triple XP-G2 2B and 3C on Noctigon ($2.79 less)
  • XP-G2 R5 3C on 16mm and 20mm Noctigon ($1.50 less)

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RMM
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myst999 wrote:
Richard, Your new tax system keeps adding tax to my order (I'm not in Washington or Utah).

At the beginning estimation, or at the end when you actually go to check out?  For some reason it keeps on trying to add tax at the beginning, but when you get to the bottom of the page (before you actually check out) the tax will be correct.  

Also, if I click estimate shipping and tax initially it removes the tax.  I'll get it figured out.

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myst999
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Its been doing it both ways. Sometimes it adds tax at he beginning. Another time it didn’t and I went all the way to the end of the checkout process and then it added the tax right before I was about to pay with Paypal.

RMM
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myst999 wrote:
Its been doing it both ways. Sometimes it adds tax at he beginning. Another time it didn't and I went all the way to the end of the checkout process and then it added the tax right before I was about to pay with Paypal.

Clear your browser cache and try again.  It should be fixed now, although I've never seen it calculate incorrectly at the end of the line and I've tried dozens of addresses and zip codes.  

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myst999
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I cleared the browser cache – still happening. Total should be $86.85

Step 6: Confirm Order
Product Name Model Quantity Price Total
XTAR VP2 Charger – 10440 – 14500 – 16340 – 18350 – 18500 – 18650 – 26650 – LiFePo 4.2V 4.35V – Add Car Charger: Yes XTAR-VP2 2 $40.75 $81.50
Sub-Total: $81.50
US Envelope Shipping: $5.35
Total: $86.85
Sales Tax 6.85%: $5.58

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I had no problem with yet another order. Smile

(Had to test the new system, don’t ya know!)

leaftye
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Good to see those pcb's back in stock.

The low mode should be lower.

myst999
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RMM wrote:

myst999 wrote:
Its been doing it both ways. Sometimes it adds tax at he beginning. Another time it didn’t and I went all the way to the end of the checkout process and then it added the tax right before I was about to pay with Paypal.

Clear your browser cache and try again.  It should be fixed now, although I’ve never seen it calculate incorrectly at the end of the line and I’ve tried dozens of addresses and zip codes.  

Just figured it out! My account address didn’t have a Zip Code. Even when entering the zip on checkout screens – the sales tax still appeared. After modifying my account address to include my zip code – the order process didn’t try to charge me tax. Just placed the order with no problems now. -Steve

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Richwouldnt wrote:
jmpaul320 wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
Now the main difficulty is making sure people are responsible enough to use a Li-Ion-powered device properly, not killing the battery or melting the host or blinding anyone.

3 or 4 of the last people I gave a flashlight too (not li-ion, aa or 2x aa) immediately pointed them at their faces and turned it on and said holy crap!

Hand them a TK75, M6 RMM Mod 2 or RMM modified SRK and see if the expletive is a bit stronger! :bigsmile: Most people have no idea of how powerful high output flashlights have become. They are still using dads 2D incandescent bulb light and will until a set of leaking alkaline batteries wipes it out.

Ha ha ha. Even though I know some of my lights are 3000+lumens or have a tight beam I’m still going to look into the business end while it’s on full power one way or another. I know it’s dumb in the back of my mind, but I can’t NOT look at it. I have to do it at least once with each light.

Slewflash 

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RMM wrote:

Legolas Jr. wrote:
Richard, is the triple xp-g2 spacer you sell the same one you use in your builds? How solid is it (how much is hollowed out in the center, if any)? http://www.mtnelectronics.com/opencart/index.php?route=product/product&p... I apologize if this has been brought up before. Smile

The S3 EDC triple doesn’t use this spacer, just the S2 and S6 (normal length) if the customer requests it. On the S3 I fill the pill with solder, sand it flat, then reflow two copper MCPCBs together for the spacer.I can’t remember the exact diameter used, but it is machined from solid bar stock and the hole in the middle is enough to fit two 22 AWG silicone wires through but not much more.  


Cool, thanks!

“Strive to be a warrior and a scholar. Be forged in fire and tempered by knowledge. If not, you will either lack the courage to fight for your ideals or lack ideals worth fighting for.”

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Richard,
Could you sell me all the components necessary to build the triple s3?

hank
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Time to borrow from the digital cameras, and add “face detection” and “red eye” feature to flashlights?
If the lens is pointed at a human face, give a preliminary couple of low level flickers so the pupils contract before full power ….

Or borrow from the laser labs, and provide a stencil that prints on the forehead in mirror-lettering
CAUTION DO NOT LOOK AT FLASHLIGHT WITH REMAINING EYE

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hank wrote:
CAUTION DO NOT LOOK AT FLASHLIGHT WITH REMAINING EYE

…challenge …accepted.
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wdkingery wrote:
Richard, Could you sell me all the components necessary to build the triple s3?

By the time I put in all of the work reflowing, sanding, drilling, adding chips etc. the labor is already almost done, so in my mind it doesn't make sense to sell it in kit form.

If you want to buy the parts to do it yourself, here's what you need:

  • S3 Host 
  • 17mm Driver (your choice)
  • Triple Noctigon LEDs (your choice of tint) 
  • Noctigon 3XP Bare MCPCB (to sand mask off and reflow)
  • Carclo 20mm Optic (your choice)
  • Copper Braid
  • Thermal Paste (do not glue MCPCB to pill!)
  • Patience Wink

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Turby3Pots
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RMM wrote:
  • Patience 
  • !

    Well I already have might could find this one, so I guess I’ll get to work.. Waiting.

    Thanks for your input (and eventually your work on a triple s3!)

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    Richard,

    I see your now out of the S3, I am partially to blame..

    With your spacers, are the S2 or S6 able to use the Tripple? I forgot to take notes if someone looking for another host.

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    Illuminaria wrote:
    Richard,

    I see your now out of the S3, I am partially to blame..

    You could sell one to make up for it Wink

    RMM
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    Illuminaria wrote:
    Richard, I see your now out of the S3, I am partially to blame.. With your spacers, are the S2 or S6 able to use the Tripple? I forgot to take notes if someone looking for another host.

    Yes they are.  Those spacers are specifically made for the S2 and S3 so that others could build their own triples without needing to be a machinist!  The only work besides soldering that needs to be done is to drill a hole in the middle of the S2/S6 pill for the wires to pass through, which is an easy task considering it is thin brass.  

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    Illuminaria
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    wdkingery wrote:
    Illuminaria wrote:
    Richard,

    I see your now out of the S3, I am partially to blame..

    You could sell one to make up for it Wink

    I gave it to my brother so now I good boy!

    Richwouldnt
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    As am I! Per USPS tracking mine is due for delivery tomorrow. Only one though so I do not consider myself greedy. :bigsmile: M6s though are another matter. They look to me more like BEER CANS than soup cans. Beer

    Rich Wood
    Reno, NV

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