FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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zak.wilson
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The light in the bag is a prototype FW3C, made of copper.

Copper isn’t really my thing, but I do like titanium and I’d probably buy an FW3T. Yes, I know the thermal properties are worse.

Titanium with a copper shelf section like the D4Ti would also be fun.

Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android

justanotherguy
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I wish neal could find out what happened to my #2… ordered at the same time as #1 – which arrived two weeks ago

anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?

Lane32x
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By the way, I haven’t seen anyone mention the LG “chocolate” (hg2) batteries yet. They come highly recommended from a buddy at work who vapes quite a bit.
Unprotected, 3000mAh, 20A drain, and their specs show that they should fit just fine.
edit official specs say this could be as tall as 65.2mm. May fit? edit

The chemistry is INR, which is also good.

I think that’s the next cell I’m going to try unless anyone has a 3500mAh they recommend.

Bucknkd313
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Update - I just got a tracking notice from DHL, package was re-shipped on 05/23 with an anticipated delivery date of 05/28! Yay!

Perhaps the logjam has been broken. "You get a FW3A, and YOU get a FW3A, etc!"

JasonWW
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Lane32x wrote:
By the way, I haven’t seen anyone mention the LG “chocolate” (hg2) batteries yet. They come highly recommended from a buddy at work who vapes quite a bit.
Unprotected, 3000mAh, 20A drain, and their specs show that they should fit just fine.
edit official specs say this could be as tall as 65.2mm. May fit? edit The chemistry is INR, which is also good.

I think that’s the next cell I’m going to try unless anyone has a 3500mAh they recommend.


That’s fine, too. It’s a bit like a 30Q. No reason it would not fit. You should expect high output for a short time on turbo just like with a 30Q.
WalkIntoTheLight
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JasonWW wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
mortuus wrote:
so 35E batteries are the best if u looking for best runtimes yea ?

Those are 8A cells, which is certainly plenty for the regulated modes. 7×7135 chips should max out at 2.5A, assuming they are 350mA chips.

I don’t know what the max current is on turbo, which is pure FET driver. I would guess it’s pushing around 8A with a full battery, less as the battery depletes. Anyone measure it? IIRC, I think the max discharge of the 35E is rated at 13A, but that would be for brief periods.

Given how quickly the light will ramp down on turbo, I doubt the battery would be draining more than 8A for very long, if at all. So the 35E should be fine. Or, you could go with a Sanyo GA cell (10A) which gives you some margin. Personally, I wouldn’t worry about it, though.

The only thing I’d stay away from are older low-drain cells, like the Panasonic NCR18650B.

I think the continuous discharge rating is pretty irrelevant. It’s more of a way to compare batteries and not so much a way to match a battery to a light. You are taking it way too literally. It’s kind of a subjective number, so don’t pay too much attention to it.

The best runtimes might be from the Panasonic NCR18650B, assuming you don’t care about measuring the Turbo output. The 35E and GA (and MJ1) are also fine cells for this light.

You’re most likely safe, even with the lower-drain NCR18650B. FET drivers tend to adjust current down with low-drain batteries, because the voltage-sag reduces voltage and thus drops current. Boost drivers ignore that, and just suck as much current as they need.

But I don’t think you should ignore the continuous discharge rating of batteries. It’s there to make sure things stay safe. Low-drain cells will heat up much more at high discharge than high-drain cells. You don’t want the battery to get too hot. They’re usually rated for somewhere around 70-80C.

Yes, you can probably run a battery even hotter than that, but the risk increases. It’s better to pick a cell to match the current demands of the light.

In this case, the Samsung 35E should be fine. The Panasonic NCR18650B (or even lower drain cells) may still be okay, but likely because the light just can’t run in turbo very long.

Lagittaja
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Lane32x wrote:
By the way, I haven’t seen anyone mention the LG “chocolate” (hg2) batteries yet. They come highly recommended from a buddy at work who vapes quite a bit.
Unprotected, 3000mAh, 20A drain, and their specs show that they should fit just fine. The chemistry is INR, which is also good.

I think that’s the next cell I’m going to try unless anyone has a 3500mAh they recommend.

It’s a good cell. Not as popular nowadays as LG Chem doesn’t like how vapers are using their cells. They even have a safety warning about it on their website. Although Samsung SDI also has such a page on their website but I think they might not actually care as I’ve seen more Samsung cells than LG’s.

Also the HG2 is not an INR cell. It’s just a name and actually nowadays there’s hardly such a thing as a Nickel (INR) or a Cobalt (ICR, LCO) or a Manganese (IMR, LMR etc) cell. “Hybrid” chemistries are the most common now and have been for a while now.
With the HG2 actually being LiNiMnCo or if you want a three letter acronym: NMC. The 30Q is also NMC.
While the 35E and MJ1 are LiNiCoAl or NCA.

As far as which 3400-3500mAh cell you should pick. Eh, it’s a bit of a wash. 35E and MJ1 are good choices. As well as Panasonic GA. Buy whatever is cheaper.

WTF
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justanotherguy wrote:
I wish neal could find out what happened to my #2… ordered at the same time as #1 – which arrived two weeks ago

You are not alone, I too suffer from buy two get one syndrome.

No response to my email. Order number 3482.

Meyer
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ToyKeeper wrote:
.. A useful version string would end up being very long and difficult to read..

What about Morse code ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aniLPEyp9SA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HY_OIwideLg”
JasonWW
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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
mortuus wrote:
so 35E batteries are the best if u looking for best runtimes yea ?

Those are 8A cells, which is certainly plenty for the regulated modes. 7×7135 chips should max out at 2.5A, assuming they are 350mA chips.

I don’t know what the max current is on turbo, which is pure FET driver. I would guess it’s pushing around 8A with a full battery, less as the battery depletes. Anyone measure it? IIRC, I think the max discharge of the 35E is rated at 13A, but that would be for brief periods.

Given how quickly the light will ramp down on turbo, I doubt the battery would be draining more than 8A for very long, if at all. So the 35E should be fine. Or, you could go with a Sanyo GA cell (10A) which gives you some margin. Personally, I wouldn’t worry about it, though.

The only thing I’d stay away from are older low-drain cells, like the Panasonic NCR18650B.

I think the continuous discharge rating is pretty irrelevant. It’s more of a way to compare batteries and not so much a way to match a battery to a light. You are taking it way too literally. It’s kind of a subjective number, so don’t pay too much attention to it.

The best runtimes might be from the Panasonic NCR18650B, assuming you don’t care about measuring the Turbo output. The 35E and GA (and MJ1) are also fine cells for this light.

You’re most likely safe, even with the lower-drain NCR18650B. FET drivers tend to adjust current down with low-drain batteries, because the voltage-sag reduces voltage and thus drops current. Boost drivers ignore that, and just suck as much current as they need.

But I don’t think you should ignore the continuous discharge rating of batteries. It’s there to make sure things stay safe. Low-drain cells will heat up much more at high discharge than high-drain cells. You don’t want the battery to get too hot. They’re usually rated for somewhere around 70-80C.


Firstly, Boost drivers don’t just suck as much current as they need. They have voltage limits programed in. If you put a weak battery in, weak as in big voltage sag under load, the boost driver will sense this and not activate it’s higher current modes. Same thing for a high cuurent battery that does not sag as much under load that is partially depleted. The driver will sense the lower voltage and limit it’s current draw by only turning on at lower brightness levels.

Back to the cells heating up…
I think a lot of what your saying is theory, in reality I don’t believe there is a single light on the market capable of heating up the battery due to high current use. Whenever you have high current drain you also have high led temperatures. The poor efficiency of leds and all the heat they generate (roughly 25%-30% light and 65%-70% heat) will cause the light to overheat well before the battery gets over heated. Even people that let their flashlight heads get up to 70-80°C still have the battery temps at safe temperatures.

So I think your kinda worried about nothing. Just my opinion, no offense meant.

(We do need to keep in mind that all batteries are not perfect. If you have an unprotected cell that gets deeply discharged, like below 2.5v, it’s most likely compromised and dangerous to use. It could vent at lower than normal temps or simply overheat under load or more likely during charging. This happens quite a bit with unknown used cells that people recycle from other devices. This type of situation would be an exception to what I said earlier. I an assuming we are all using good quality cells that are not damaged in our lights.)

Does anyone know of any lights capable of overheating a battery before the head overheats? I don’t know of any, but I’d like to know if it exists. (It’s certainly not the FW3A)

Melez
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contactcr wrote:

That should be compatible. That will come with wires pre-soldered on that you wont need but no big deal. If you have a little soldering experience it should be fairly straightforward.

teacher wrote:
If you can unsolder the two wires the new MCPCB comes with & the two wires on the FW3A MCPCB, swap the MCPCB’s & resolder the two wires in the FW3A on to the new MCPCB… your good to go.
ToyKeeper wrote:
Melez wrote:
Full disclosure: I am something of an idiot.

Then you’re in good company. Most of us are idiots around here. At least, I know I’ve done some pretty dumb things…

Well those replies are confidence inspiring! I remember the basics of soldering, but I should probably watch a YouTube refresher. I mean I’m relatively handy… Definitely won’t do this anywhere near my woodshop. But at least when I mess up I’ll know some understanding people.

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Boaz wrote:

  Has anyone baked one of these yet .


 That light in a bag looks like maybe it was done in the microwave. you know how they tell you NOT to cook in those plastic bags .. Silly 

TLF and colored body parts:
(sorry in German)

Someone colored the tail switch cover golden with lighter fluid and heat
Pic:
https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/posts/992704

The next heat-treated the whole lamp
pic:
https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/posts/992798
A few posts above one has a blue switch

JasonWW
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I’m not subscribed to TLF so I can’t enlarge the pictures, but I can see the gray turns a goldish color.

Are they having the same issues over there as we are with lights needing to be cleaned and tightened properly to get working?

teacher
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JasonWW wrote:

Are they having the same issues over there as we are with lights needing to be cleaned and tightened properly to get working?
A little birdie (member there) told me they paid $1 US extra to have them all cleaned, lubed, inspected, tightened, & pre-tested before theirs shipped.
Not a bad deal… Thumbs Up
.
.
.
.
...if it were actually true.... . Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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BlueSwordM
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You mean 5$US?

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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hopefully a F3WB = brass comes together with the F3WCopper.. I wanna see what the light looks like with both metals haha..

teacher
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Naah…. $1. They got a special deal. Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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teacher
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Naah…. $1. They got a special deal.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

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ikkentobi wrote:
Is there some estimation how long the FW3A will run on the lowest moon mode, for example on a 30Q cell?

It averages about 1.7 mA on moon, and a 30Q cell has 3000 mAh, so that’s 3000 / 1.7 / 24 = 73.5 days.

The 35E cell is probably a somewhat better choice for this light though, especially if you want to use low modes a lot. It should last about 85.8 days on moon.

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Great lights! Many thanks to the team.
3D and 7A came in the same box with VTC6 on Thursday, but got them outside tonight for the first time. It is difficult to believe such small lights perform so well. They look great- no complaints about the clip. Both worked right out of the box. So glad I found BLF for these and for the outrageously bright A6. You guys are the best!

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teacher wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Are they having the same issues over there as we are with lights needing to be cleaned and tightened properly to get working?
A little birdie (member there) told me they paid $1 US extra to have them all cleaned, lubed, inspected, tightened, & pre-tested before theirs shipped. Not a bad deal… Thumbs Up . . . . ...if it were actually true.... . Wink

Yes, if true, that would be a great few dollars spent for almost everyone.

DrDevil
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teacher wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Are they having the same issues over there as we are with lights needing to be cleaned and tightened properly to get working?
A little birdie (member there) told me they paid $1 US extra to have them all cleaned, lubed, inspected, tightened, & pre-tested before theirs shipped. Not a bad deal… Thumbs Up . . . . ...if it were actually true.... . Wink

Yes, that would have been a really good investment Cash
If such an offer had existed…

No, Same issues in Germany with the FW3A Sad

teacher
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/\Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

joechina
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JasonWW wrote:
I’m not subscribed to TLF so I can’t enlarge the pictures, but I can see the gray turns a goldish color.

Are they having the same issues over there as we are with lights needing to be cleaned and tightened properly to get working?

Yes, most are fine with cleaning and tightening.
The only not working light I know is from Nagonka.

mortuus
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Lane32x wrote:
By the way, I haven’t seen anyone mention the LG “chocolate” (hg2) batteries yet. They come highly recommended from a buddy at work who vapes quite a bit.
Unprotected, 3000mAh, 20A drain, and their specs show that they should fit just fine.
edit official specs say this could be as tall as 65.2mm. May fit? edit The chemistry is INR, which is also good.

I think that’s the next cell I’m going to try unless anyone has a 3500mAh they recommend.

im using hg2 fits fine, but its kinda pointless having a 20A battery in this kind of light, even 30Q is overkill so i will stick with samsung 35E that has like 3400mah or something..

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

KevinZA1988
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NCR18650GA fits fine and performs really well.

Acebeam L16, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Emisar D4, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65.

clip.
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Managed to get the shorting light working after several disassemble, reassemble cycles and careful driver positioning. The second light is still dead with what looks like a bad connection on the driver (-) side. Driver is free to spin as if only connected at one point, and multimeter reads an open circuit between the ( -) MCPCB and the square head threads.

WalkIntoTheLight
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JasonWW wrote:
Firstly, Boost drivers don’t just suck as much current as they need. They have voltage limits programed in. If you put a weak battery in, weak as in big voltage sag under load, the boost driver will sense this and not activate it’s higher current modes.

Yes, but with something like a Zebralight (boost driver), it will use a voltage right down to 2.8v. With a fully charged low-drain cell, that’s a 1.4v drop the battery could be experiencing. That means a third of the power is going to internally heating up the battery. So if the light is using 10 watts, the battery is generating 5 watts of heat.

Quote:
The poor efficiency of leds and all the heat they generate will cause the light to overheat well before the battery gets over heated. Even people that let their flashlight heads get up to 70-80°C still have the battery temps at safe temperatures.

I agree with that. Also, FET drivers (like the FW3A uses) tend to be somewhat current-limiting with low-drain cells.

Quote:
So I think your kinda worried about nothing. Just my opinion, no offense meant.

Most likely, yes. But I’d still rather use a cell that has a current rating at least as high as the light. Going above the current rating for a cell might damage it in ways other than heat. In all probability, that might just cause it to give you less cycles or raise its IR a bit. Still, the manufacturers give current ratings for a reason, some of that is based on safety.

With a good name-brand cell, you’re probably safe even if you do go above the current rating. With a knock-off cell, I wouldn’t risk it.

Has anyone measured the maximum current of the FW3A? I suspect it’s probably under 8A, even with a high-drain cell. So, the 35E cell should be fine. Besides, it has a max 13A rating for brief periods (I’m not sure how long that is).

Quote:
Does anyone know of any lights capable of overheating a battery before the head overheats? I don’t know of any, but I’d like to know if it exists. (It’s certainly not the FW3A)

It would have to be a large light. The BLF Q8 will operate on a single cell, but its max output drops by about half. I’m not sure that’s enough to heat up a cell to above 70C or 80C. Stick a boost driver in a BLF Q8, and maybe.

It looks like from test results on the Samsung 35E cell, that using a 10 amp discharge current will heat it up by about 45C. At 25C room temperature, that would get it to about 70C before it runs out of energy.

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I came back because I am so excited for this light! Its very exciting. When will the new TK firmware be made, and will the SST-20 or an LH651 be put in? Neal said it they are still adding it? Hope to get one with the new firmware, SST-20 or LH651 soon!

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Welcome “back” Lick! Where’d you go??

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

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