FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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JasonWW
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mbp wrote:
I just received a new bare aluminum FW3A from Illumn, it has the tail retaining ring so I know it’s a newer run. I have noticed that this model has a gap in the clip ring area and the clip can spin freely, it has already scratched up the body quite a bit. My other FW3A is from the first SST-20 run and it has no gap and the clip cannot move. Has anyone else observed this behavior? A little disappointing.

Where is the rubber ring? If it’s not there or it’s too small, you can add one so it won’t spin.

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contactcr
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The new models do not include any rubber ring for the clip and on top of that they now put solder blobs on the back of the switch PCB so the tail wont even crank down as much. I think both of those issues lead to this.

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staticx57 wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
goshdogit wrote:
DarkHorse UI on the FW3A

I don’t have that one updated to work with three channels…

Out of curiosity, what is needed? How doable?

Not sure, but it would probably at least need to be updated to support Anduril config files.

It really hasn’t had any meaningful updates since it was first written. Just barely enough to allow it to compile after changes in FSM.

Chatika vas Paus
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Is anything known about the other colors of the 18350 tube?
I would like to have purple and copper.

tatasal
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The FW3A family has the upcoming addition: Stainless Steel !! ..it will be called FW3S

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tatasal wrote:

The FW3A family has the upcoming addition: Stainless Steel !! ..it will be called FW3S

 

Very good looking.

Of course it'll heat up quickly, but it's still tempting.

mortuus
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copper version the polished is sold out now according to lumintop on facebook.

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

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Chatika vas Paus wrote:
Is anything known about the other colors of the 18350 tube?

according to statement by lumintop the short tubes won’t be available until further notice with other colors or materials than the standard gray fw3a unfortunately:
“We regret to tell at present, we have no plan for the blue/sand/raw/green/purple and titanium/copper short tubes yet. Because the total volum is not as much as the color grey version, so if we made the colors short tubes, the quantity will be less, thus the cost will be high.”
too bad Sad

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atobe
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Are they just willing to sell the bezels for tail-cap and head?

ᕦ(ò_óˇ)ᕤ I can always be wrong, probably 75% of the time.

P33
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Gunga wrote:
I wonder if anyone can confirm that the 18350 tube works with the first gen body.

18350 tube does work with the first batch FW3A without any issues.

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P33 wrote:
Gunga wrote:
I wonder if anyone can confirm that the 18350 tube works with the first gen body.

18350 tube does work with the first batch FW3A without any issues.

And the 18500 tube, and the SS bezel and the deep carry clip also work perfectly with the 1st batch of this light!!! Love

(P.S. nevermind the light temperature of the photo, it is not balanced and is under a lower than 4000K ceiling lights)

BTW:

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

icpart
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Hi. Today I received my FW3A SST20. In the package there is warning to not dissamble the tailcap, but when I tried to unscrew it, it was very tight and I could not to remove it. Do you have idea if in the last batches of FW3A the tailcap is maybe glued?

atobe
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It should have a retaining clip that holds down the tailcap parts. Look for a black ring.

ᕦ(ò_óˇ)ᕤ I can always be wrong, probably 75% of the time.

icpart
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atobe wrote:
It should have a retaining clip that holds down the tailcap parts. Look for a black ring.

I can’t just unscrew at all the taicap. Any suggestions? OOps Blushing it was just very tighten.
Finaly managed to unscew it.
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you did read the notice to open the head to insert the cell and NOT the tailcap? 

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icpart wrote:
Hi. Today I received my FW3A SST20. In the package there is warning to not dissamble the tailcap, but when I tried to unscrew it, it was very tight and I could not to remove it. Do you have idea if in the last batches of FW3A the tailcap is maybe glued?

Mine was tight, but no glue.

icpart
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M4D M4X wrote:

you did read the notice to open the head to insert the cell and NOT the tailcap? 


Yes I know that. I wanted to just measure standby current and maximum power consumption with my battery so I needed to uncrew the tailcap. It was just very tight.
atobe
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Oh I misread, I thought he was trying to get to the switch.

ᕦ(ò_óˇ)ᕤ I can always be wrong, probably 75% of the time.

mitsuki08
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P33 wrote:
Gunga wrote:
I wonder if anyone can confirm that the 18350 tube works with the first gen body.

18350 tube does work with the first batch FW3A without any issues.

Could you take a photo of the body and the inner tube? I just bought mine and I can’t seem to make mine work. Not 100% sure if mine is a first batch FW3A but mine doesn’t have the retaining ring on the tailcap. Looking at the 18650 and 18350 inner tubes, the 18350 protrudes more.

Tried to use the inner tube both ways and I can’t fully screw down the tail or the head where the thicker rim(bottom part on the 18350 tube in the image) is positioned at. I don’t know if it’s an incompatible inner tube or I’m doing something wrong.

Any advice?

JasonWW
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The inner tube should only work one direction, with the lip near the tail.

Is your oring under the lip on the smaller tube?

Tighten the tail cap first, then the head.

You can also tighten just the tail and then check to make sure the switch is working.

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mitsuki08
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JasonWW wrote:
The inner tube should only work one direction, with the lip near the tail.

Is your oring under the lip on the smaller tube?

Tighten the tail cap first, then the head.

Yes, my oring is under the lip on the smaller tube. I also tightened the tail cap first and it didn’t seem to do anything. Tightening it down just brings it to this.

Sorry I’m not sure what you mean by

JasonWW wrote:
You can also tighten just the tail and then check to make sure the switch is working.
Could you elaborate?

I tried to remove the oring from the lip under the inner tube and I can tighten it down further, I get a blink so i guess there is power but clicking the switch still does nothing.

JasonWW
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mitsuki08
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JasonWW wrote:
Oh okay, so there is no beep to confirm the continuity when I click the switch. I tried to tighten it down more but I think it’s tightened well enough. Any suggestions to fix this?..
JasonWW
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mitsuki08 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Oh okay, so there is no beep to confirm the continuity when I click the switch. I tried to tighten it down more but I think it’s tightened well enough. Any suggestions to fix this?..

Not really, maybe try with and without the oring. Maybe someone has an better idea.

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 it beeps between spring and the ring

spring to thread is always connected 

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I just wanted to post some comparison photos that I took with the different tubes and clips and also side by side with the FW1A!
I really love these lights, did I mentioned it already? Wink

Enjoy! BTW, all of these (except the Sony battery) was bought from www.nealsgadgets.com Wink
Stuff I bought recently!

FW1A >>>>> FW3A
18350 tube

18500 tube

Tailcaps & Heads (FW1A has a retaining ring on the tail and the retaning ring on the driver is brass)

Tubes (FW3A > FW1A) [ yeah, they are different, but interchangeable, as far as I could test them and put them to work! Also, the clip on the FW1A is not dark, but it can be easily darkened with a blow torch, unlike the deep carry clip, that will probably take more efforts to do that! ]

FW1A 18350 & FW3A 18500 >>>> FW3A 18350 & FW1A 18500

The whole family Big Smile

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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mitsuki08 wrote:
Oh okay, so there is no beep to confirm the continuity when I click the switch. I tried to tighten it down more but I think it’s tightened well enough. Any suggestions to fix this?..

Can you check if your retaining ring in the tailcap is centered and that the inner command tube fits inside of it? You can also try to put the command tube in first and then screw on the outer tube.

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A rare possibility is a defective switch.

I had multiple FW3 lights with contact problems that were fixed by tightening the tube and tailcap.

However, that fix did NOT work on my Ti-Cu FW3T. Further checking revealed that the microswitch was actually defective.

  • It worked, but only if I pressed REALLY hard and even then only some of the time.
  • When I swapped the switch board for one from a different FW3 light the switch worked normally without excess pressure being needed.
  • I then swapped the defective board into a different FW3 light and it was still broken even though in a completely different light.

For this defective switch FW3 light I conclude that I need to desolder and remove the switch from the board and replace it with a different switch.

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i made a short video how to measure the current - hope its helpful for someone

 all new deals are posted here: 

deals.m4dm4x.com

ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will try to save you money!

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Firelight2 wrote:
A rare possibility is a defective switch.

Your forgetting that his tail switch already works fine, as seen with the longer tube. It’s just the shorter tube that there is a contact problem.

mitsuki08 wrote:
Oh okay, so there is no beep to confirm the continuity when I click the switch. I tried to tighten it down more but I think it’s tightened well enough. Any suggestions to fix this?..

You might try tightening harder.

You can check continuity with the battery tube removed, just slide the inner tube against the switch. That should definitely work.

Are both ends of the new tube clean and bare metal? No coatings or residue covering the contact area?

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

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